MattBites

A New Home

2006-06-04T14:42:00.000-07:00

Ladies and gentleman, I'm pleased to announce that I've gotten off my lazy butt and am happy to introduce Mattbites.

You know, it was always something I wanted to do but never got around to it. Six months into my blogging venture and a recent chain of events forced me to sit down with a glass of wine (ok, a few bottles) and make it a reality. If you think I'm pleased with myself you'd be correct. I'm not much for code and programming to tell you the truth.

Another reason for my reluctance to take it to the next level was that I honestly didn't think I'd last this long. I always though "oh geez, another food blog" every time I sat down to post, but 51 entries later I've found a voice for myself and some of the most amazing food folks I could ever hope to meet. The emails of encouragement from all over the world have meant more to me than you can imagine, and the opportunity to review, taste and sample has been extraordinary and so very worthwhile.

Even if it has branded me as that snail guy :)

Because of some blogger issues (I'm keeping a positive attitude here folks) I will keep my old mattbites archives here. I've only recreated a few new ones at mattbites.com but decided against lugging all my posts over there. It's a clean, fresh start and I hope you'll join me over at my new home.

So, in a nutshell, this site (http://mattbites.blogspot.com/), bye bye, no mas.
Mattbites is where it's at.

Happy eating,

matt

P.S. I was spammed pretty heavily here and in the process of creating of creating word notification something went terribly awry. Comments won't work. If you've left any comments here in the past few days I haven't seen them. My most sincere apologies.

Oh, Oyster!

2006-06-03T17:33:00.000-07:00

Don't ask me why but oysters always seem to get pushed into the back corners of my mind when it comes to ideas for appetizers or when I crave seafood. It's not as if I don't love them and that they don't rank high up on my eating scale. Perhaps it's because it can be a tiny bit difficult to find high quality fresh oysters (keyword: fresh), and let's face it, splitting open those shells with speed and finesse does take practice.

Sometimes I wonder how much of a strange kid I was, graciously accepting of anything my dad urged me to try. I remember eating pickled pig's feet with him at the dinner table, devouring hunks of blue cheese on salads and eating raw oysters with tabasco when I was 5 years old. My father knew where flavor was at, and damn it he was going to pass it on! Thanks, Dad!

Thirty years later I still love that briny, ocean-y flavor in whatever form. Fried, baked or smoked, oysters never fail to bring a smile to my face, and when consumed raw it's one of the few foods that just stops me dead in my tracks, temporarily silencing me for a few seconds (no easy feat!), eyes closed, head tilted back, savoring every last bit of complex flavor contained in that shell.

Sometimes salty, sometimes fruity, sometimes creamy, always delicious. It's as if you're tasting the ocean.

Here in the US most of the fresh oysters consumed can be broken down into three basic classifications: Atlantic, Pacific and Olympia. Atlantic oysters tend to be larger with much more defined salinity. Pacific oysters originated in Japan and are much more refined in flavor; some describe them as creamy with mineral notes. And Olympia oysters, from the Pacific coast, are smaller with a much more distinguishable flavor and aftertaste. Within these categories are numerous varieties (Kumamoto, Malaspina, Caraquet, Pugwash, etc.) and all are equally tasty. There a size for every taste, but generally the smaller and younger the oyster the more subtle and delicious.

Ok, now the safety issue. Well, make that safety issues. First, you may have heard that oysters should only be consumed in the months that end in an "R". October, September, you get the picture. No one seems to know exactly where this came from and there are theories, but consider it a tale. I'm eating oysters in June, pure and simple. Now, the second issue should be addressed with honest concern Like all things fun, pleasurable or tasty, eating raw oysters involves some risk. That risk is called Vibrio vulnificus and it's very real. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, there were a recorded 282 cases of serious illness between 1989 and 2000 that involved the Vibrio vulnificus bacteria. About half of those cases involved death. This nasty bacteria is found in warm coastal waters and is not a result of pollution and does not affect the color, taste or smell of the oyster. If you're a relatively healthy individual you can bounce back from a case of Vibrio vulnificus, but if you're at risk it's best to skip raw oysters entirely. Or you can cook them completely; heat destroys the bacteria.

Ok, back to raw oysters... are you still with me?

One of my favorite sandwiches is an oyster po'boy, with all its fried goodness on a light bun with tangy dressing. However, when it comes to eating high quality oysters at home, well, I leave them naked. I want to taste as much of their subtle flavor as possible, enhancing them with only the smallest amount of tabasco or mignonette sauce. Of course, if you're going to smoke or fry oysters or devour Oysters Rockefeller you want to start with a good quality oyster, but to dress them up and have the little guys compete with other flavors is just cruel if you ask me.

The freshest way to enjoy oysters involves shucking them yourselves. Anything canned or in a glass jar just doesn't cut it when it comes to freshness. Choose oysters that are tightly closed, discarding any that have opened. Let your nose be your guide. Do they smell fresh? Get a bad oyster and you'll immediately know it's not right. Not an enjoyable experience.

To shuck an oyster you'll need a sharp knife with a good handle, preferably an oyster knife. You'll also want a small kitchen towel to hold the oyster. I'd love to tell you about the time "someone" I know didn't use a towel and ended up with dozen of small cuts on both his bloody hands, but that would just reveal my oyster naivaté. Can't do that! Wrap the oyster in a towel and insert the knife on the bottom of the oyster. You'll need quite a bit of power here, the oyster's muscular grasp on its home is quite impressive. Once the tip is inside the shell gently move it around the entire oyster, loosening the shell. Keep the shell steady and level as you do not want to spill the liquid inside–this is flavor, folks! Once completely opened gently remove the oyster from the shell by cutting through its attachment. It's a fine dance of balancing, cutting, prying and opening, but after a few oysters you'll get the hang of it. And if mess up, eat the oyster! No one has to know.

Enjoy the oysters immediately by serving on a bed of ice. Keeping them as cold as possible is important, too. And enjoy them however you like–with a bit of horseradish, a simple mignonette, a dash of tabasco, cocktail sauce or just a simple squeeze of lemon.

Matt's Super Basic Mignonette Sauce
This French sauce is so easy to create and is ready immediately. You can add a dash of salt but keep in mind that oysters can be very salty. I like to keep it simple.

INGREDIENTS
2/3 cup vinegar (red, white, champagne, sherry, tarragon, use any kind you like)
3 tablespoons minced shallot
1 tablespoon freshly cracked black or white pepper
dash of salt to taste

METHOD
Combine all ingredients and chill. Spoon over oysters on the half shell and enjoy.

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, a scientist or nutritionist. Please proceed with caution and if you have any questions about shellfish, oysters, clams and seafood and their safety please consult your doctor.

Food Secrets Revealed!

2006-06-02T11:48:00.000-07:00

If you know me you have probably told me a few hundred times to keep my loud laugh down or asked me if there was a way to contain and temper my excitement just a little bit. I'm gregarious, obnoxious and the poster boy for the word "demonstrative". Please forgive me.

I like others to celebrate life as well, but that doesn't mean working with me is a piece of cake, either. Work hard and play hard, that's what I say. When I'm art directing a shoot I like it to flow smoothly, and most importantly I want others to enjoy their work. Their efforts translate into a better shoot and that benefits everyone.

Yesterday I asked my stylist to create a big sandwich for a magazine feature on back to school lunches. I wanted it to be fun, not some humdrum boring lunchbox item that seems to appear everywhere around September.

"Make it tall, make it big, make it graphic!" I proclaimed.

What followed went above and beyond my expectations. I mean, I wanted her to have fun and work hard, but with this I was truly impressed. After being dumbfounded by her engineering prowess I asked her if I could reveal her towering structure on my blog, if only to show the work and thought and time that went into making a simple sandwich so, well, not simple.

She gladly obliged me, and I thank her.

I know I've said it before, but here's a big giant bow to the folks behind the scenes who make what you see look simple and delicious. It's not always the case.

My ever so patient assistant and full-time canine companion Chochi giving her approval on the shot. Nothing gets past her.

Matt’s Personal Opinion of Organics And Marketing At This Very Second

2006-05-30T20:20:00.000-07:00

Because I’m up to my eyeballs in the design of a package for a new organic milk and I’ve just finished re-reading The Omnivore’s Dilemma again, I’m opting out of photos and words and giving you an artistic representation of how I feel about the organic industry and those who market organic foods (I believe I am a part of that group as well. Color me guilty as charged.)

P.S. I’m thoroughly qualified to make fun of organics as I started my career with Whole Foods Market many, many, many years ago back in the original location. Keep your angry emails to yourselves, folks. I’m just venting!

In A Pickle

2006-05-29T07:39:00.000-07:00

What is it about vinegar plus ingredients that make me such a happy boy? Is it the complimentary tang of anything that's cured in brine brings? Is it that zippy puckerface that follows after chomping on a pickled cucumber? Or have I just encountered temporary culinary fatigue and needed something loud and strong to shock me out of my lull?

Perhaps it was D, all of the above.

To me, there are just some things that cannot and should not be enjoyed without their pickled counterpart. I refuse to enjoy paté and baguette without cornichon. I frown if a burger doesn't have pickles waiting for me under its bun. A ploughman's lunch isn't a ploughman's lunch without Branston pickle. Pickles, in whatever form, provide that sharp tangy balance that pairs beautifully with the smooth and savory. It's that last crash of a symbol in a symphony, that sparkling sour kick in a bite.

One of my favorite things to do in the pickling department is Zuni's red onion pickles. If you've eaten there and ordered a burger you know what I'm talking about: those zesty,hot pink rings that adorn the side of the burger, lending an intriguing spice flavor that lives between their savory and salty notes. I always ask for extra, will happily pick them off the plates of dining friends, and just about go crazy for them.

Besides, anything that bright in color has to be loved.

Zuni's red onion pickles are quite easy to make at home and don't require the weeks of resting in brine to achieve their flavor (although they do get better with age.) The process must be done in steps and it may seem elaborate, but it's not. Skipping the steps gives you an onion that isn't quite as flavorful and not the same texture. You want them soft but still crunchy, and the multiple cooking delivers just that.

Aside from their unusual hot pink color, the onions really shine in recipes. They're easily identifiable on a burger and don't get lost amidst sharp cheese and smoky patties. They're also equally delicious on sandwiches, with grilled fare, and served with cheese. I love them on grilled sausages, sort of a fancy hot dog, if you will. However you enjoy them, they're definitely worth the afternoon effort and bring a little Zuni home with every bite.

Red Onion Pickles adapted from the Zuni Cookbook

Cooking notes: You'll want to prepare these in a stainless steel pot and use stainless steel tongs or a wooden spoon. Aluminum cookware can leave the onions with an off color and deny you the gorgeous hot pink hue that you want.

Ingredients for about 2 pints
1 lb firm red onions (about 2 medium onions, although you can add more and increase quantity)

for the brine:
3 cups distilled white vinegar
1 1/2 cups sugar
a cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
a few whole cloves
a few allspice berries
a small dried chili
a star anise pod (Zuni recipe says it's optional, I wouldn't skip this part!)
2 bay leaves
a few whole black peppercorns

Method:
1. Combine the vinegar, sugar, and all the spices in the stainless steel pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let stand to allow the spices to infuse the brine.

2. Peel the onions, trim the ends and slice 3/8 inch thick. Separate the slices into rings, discarding any skin and tough bits.

3. Uncover the brine and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately add about 1/3 of the onion rings and stir them under. They will turn hot pink almost instantly (YAY! says Matt.) As soon as the bring begins to simmer around the edges, about 20 seconds, stir them under again and slide the pot off the heat. Immediately remove the onions with a slotted spoon, skimmer, or tongs and spread on a platter or cookie sheet to cool completely. The onions will still be firm. Repeat with the remaining onions, in two batches.

4. Once the onions have cooled (you can stick them in the fridge to cool them quickly), repeat the entire process, again in three batches, two more times, always adding the onions to boiling brine, pulling them promptly as the brine begins to simmer again, and cooling them completely after each bath. After the third round of blanching, thoroughly chill the brine, then add the pickled onions. This slightly tedious process saturates the onions with the fragrant brine without really cooking them, a process that leaves them crunchy. Zuni notes that without this process you're left with dull, regularly colored onion rings.

5. Place in jars, cover and store refrigerated. The cookbook says they will keep indefinitely, but I've never gone longer than 2 weeks before they're completely gone. Enjoy!

A Sip of Paradise

2006-05-22T20:15:00.000-07:00

Sometimes I think I live in paradise. Well, paradise if you omit the 405 freeway, the congestion, smog, the high cost of living and state income tax. Even though Southern California gets a bad rap (and sometimes deservedly so), it’s still filled with great beauty and nature and it’s easy to see why it’s called the Golden State.

For example, on a clear day I can see the ocean to my left and snow covered mountains on my right. In one single day I can swim at the beach in the morning, sweat in the middle of a desert during lunch and throw snowballs in the afternoon and still be home in time for dinner. It’s geographically miraculous and an ever constant source of personal amazement.

Few places in the world have our climate, and this explains why California is an agricultural goldmine. Plenty of sunshine, cool days, mild winters and an ample amount of heat make for luscious environs, and I only need to set foot into my backyard to experience paradise.

While my deepest gratitude goes out to Mother Nature and all that she supplies us I cannot forget another woman who has made my life so extremely special; her name is Pat. You see, Pat is my partner’s grandmother and the original owner of the home we live in. Pat was a homemaker and an avid gardener. She was also a lover of all things tropical and traveled to Hawaii, Fiji, the Philippines, Tonga, Tahiti, Bahamas, Virgin Islands and every place in between. She spent countless hours planting, culling, trimming and beautifying her yard, planting the small cuttings that she brought home from all her travels. I bet she had no idea that 60 years later her grandson’s partner would whisper a little “thank you” each time the season’s first plumeria or peach or nectarine appeared. To stand in her yard and literally reap the fruits of her labor is such a gift, and it reminds me that if you nurture and love and tend to and care for life’s treasures you will be rewarded in ways greater than you can ever imagine.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Sometime around 1955 Pat (or Granny as we called her) planted a row of plumeria trees, fruit trees, palms, staghorn ferns and numerous hibiscus trees in her backyard. Decades later they’re still thriving and every year I love collecting the plumeria flowers for fragrant homemade leis. I hate to see those beautiful flowers go to waste! I also discovered how easy it is to make the drink Jamaica from all the hibiscus flowers.

Dried flowers from the Hibiscus sabdariffa are steeped in boiling water and allowed release their color and flavor (the bright red color is due to the presence of anthocyans, the same compounds that give beets their color.) The soaked flowers are given one last squeeze before discarding them and the liquid is strained, sugared and usually served over ice. Jamaica is high in vitamin C and has a tart, almost cranberry-like flavor and can deliver quite a pucker. If you can’t find fresh hibiscus flowers (talk about eating locally!) you can usually find the dried variety in health food stores or Latin markets.

If you find yourself in Southern California during August consider this an open invitation to join us in our small spot of heaven while wearing a homemade lei and sipping Jamaica. Paradise is always much better shared.

Jamaica
I’m not big on formalities but if you’re saying Ja-may-kuh like the Island then you’re just a tad bit off. Say it with me: huh-mai-kuh. There. Much better. Oh, and if you’re female and time traveling from ancient Egypt, you might want to stick with water. Red hibiscus flowers were believed to induce lust to the highest degree and therefore a forbidden drink. More for me!

Ingredients
2/3 cup dried hibiscus blossoms
1 1/2 cups water plus 3 cups
1/2 to 1/3 cup granulated sugar (or more to taste)
lime wedges for garnish

Method
In a saucepan bring the 1 1/2 cups of water and blossoms to a boil. Continue boiling for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add remaining water and sugar. Transfer the liquid to a pitcher and set aside overnight. Of course you can serve immediately over ice but the flavors will be better developed if you wait. Garnish with lime wedges.

24 Hours In San Francisco

2006-05-18T18:57:00.000-07:00

It would be silly to say that I too have left my heart in San Francisco considering I feel like such a Southern California boy these days. But every time I go back it reminds me how much I love that place. Memories and experiences–some great, some I'd rather forget–come flooding back to me, instantly transporting me back to the years I spent struggling to pay my rent yet loving every minute of the delicious struggle.

This past visit, although short, reminded me of the magic that I fell in love with the very first time I set foot in that zany city. I was there for a series of meetings, a schedule that would put me in San Francisco for for exactly 24 hours (ok, well, 24.56 hours if you want to split hairs.) And because I don't make it up as much as I'd like I was determined to cram as much food into my short window as humanly possible. Consider it a gustatory race, if you will, a competition with myself in which I was clearly the victor. Damn, for once I won something!

I have neither the writing skills nor the vocabulary to say how amazing San Francisco is. But you already knew that. I mean, nothing I could say could really ever convey how freaking fantastic the food is. And I'm not just talking restaurants, but the culture, environment and the connection. So I won't even try. I'd fail miserably.

My first few hours were spent in meetings, and as much as I engaged in the topic of media buys and grand openings and the value of radio versus print versus versus online advertising, all I could think of was getting out as soon as possible and eating. Should I fake a stomach ache so I could skip out early? No, that's dishonest. How about stare at my watch, sending out invisible signals that I had absorbed as much info as I could and that it was time to bolt for the door? No, I had a job to do. And I did it. But you better believe the second the last meeting was over I ran for the door and hightailed it to dinner.

The meetings went well. I had a nice tour of the new (wait, old) San Francisco Emporium building at 5th and Market, still currently under construction. But when it opens in September it will be quite a stunning place. The 19th century dome on top of the building was lifted and moved last year and just thinking about the logistics of that gives me a headache. No small feat, for sure!

After a day of meetings I met with two of my best friends who put me to shame when it comes to culinary achievements. Wade, a Whole Foods Market veteran and his partner Paul, of the Paul Marcus Wine Shop in Oakland, travel the world eating and tasting and no I am not bitter and do not feel sorry for them one bit and I am certainly not jealous hell no that's not like me I could never and I wish them the best even if Paul says it's hell spending a month winetasting in France oh poor guy my heart goes out to him blah blah blah blah blah. Whew! That felt good! Where was I? Oh yes, dinner. I suppose it's Los Angeles' sad representation of Spanish food that always pushes me towards tapas when I travel and this trip was no exception. I've wanted to try Bocadillos (710 Montgomery Street) for some time and get my urban Spanish fix in an attempt to recapture the long dinners I shared with Paul and Wade when we were all in Spain a few years ago. While Bocadillos didn't have a heavy fog of cigarette smoke and hams hanging from the ceiling like many tapas bars in Spain, it did offer some pretty delicious bites, a nice wine list, and the opportunity to sit and catch up without feeling rushed. I can't remember the last time I enjoyed this sensation in an American restaurant.

Note to self: next time skip everything else and just order one metric ton of Prawns A La Plancha with garlic and lemon confit. Oh jesus.

One of the best parts of my job involves a constant absorption of media, food, trends, tastes and ideas. It's what we do as marketers, and it's the part that makes the long hours worth it. This means that I can unashamedly eat 6 meals a day for the sake of work, snack in between, and when that lady sitting next to me looks at me like I represent everything wrong with American diets, well, I can just smile, knowing I'm doing a good job. Bitch.

Tartine. Oh Tartine Tartine Tartine Tartine Tartine. Based on Amy's recommendation I found myself in the Mission Tuesday morning, just up the street from my old apartment. And I'm kind of glad Tartine wasn't open when I lived there. I'm a chubby guy and Tartine would have easily pushed me into the obese category. Was the line trailing out the door a sign of things to come? Would there be anything in that bakery I wouldn't enjoy? Is it wrong to want to find an apartment and move back just because of this place? Oh, all the questions. But what I do know is that Tartine lives up to its buzz. I just love when someone does something right. It was a perfect experience. Not particularly precious or over the top as San Francisco is prone to doing, it's just a great bakery. 'Nuff said.

After breakfast (well, enough for a week's worth of breakfasts) I headed to the Ferry Building. The shops were just opening but Tuesday was Farmer's Market day. It was painful to be among such amazing produce and know that I couldn't load my bag with the freshest and tastiest fruits and vegetables. I mean, well, yes, I could, but then I'd be boarding a plane and knocking over people with artichokes and turnips and snap peas and flowers. Come to think of it, that'd be kind of funny. Of course I couldn't help myself and snatched up every organic Sorrento lemon I could find. Carrying 6 lbs of lemons around all day isn't exactly comfortable but I'm sure glad I did it. Who doesn't love lemons?

Because I was there for work and traveling with colleages we spent the next few hours cabbing it around town checking out grocery stores. Some nice, some incredibly not-so-nice, I alternated between making notes and checking my watch. I wanted so badly to fast forward to lunch so I could eat again. Remember, I was a man on a mission, and I was going to make it back to Taylor's if it was the last thing I did.

Taylor's Refresher was founded in St. Helena, California in 1949 and was recently named the 2006 America's Classics Restaurant Winner by the James Beard Foundation. Taylor's is the ultimate burger joint and it's hard to pass up the opportunity to indulge in a burger and shake. With a glass of wine. Or three. And fries. And onion rings. And a beer. Sure, this new shiny location doesn't have the same charm as the original one, but that doesn't matter when the food is just as good. I could cry right now.

After lunch I had one last stroll through the Ferry Building, making sure I stocked up on some sweets for the ride home.

I'm looking forward to spending more time on a regular basis in one of my favorite food cities. My doctor probably won't think it's the best idea, but you only live once and there's just too many heavenly bites in San Francisco.

I mean, somebody's gotta eat it, right?

Online:
Tartine
Taylor's Refresher
Bocadillos
Miette Bakery
Ferry Building

Review: Seasoned Skewers

2006-05-18T16:10:00.000-07:00

I just read a pretty fascinating article on Homaro Cantu of Moto in Chicago. Cantu is one of the gastronomical scientific renegades who is attempting to change the way we eat and think about food by fusing the science lab with the kitchen. You know what I'm talking about: menus on edible paper, synthetic champagne, food disguised as shapes that reveal their true identities once bitten, lasers, nitrogen, helium, class IV lasers, I could go on. I can't knock it because I've never tried his cuisine, but something tells me that I'm content with my kitchen and just a few pots and pans. I'm a simple guy.

Maybe it's timing or irony, but the second I finished the article a package arrived on my desk. I opened it to find an assortment of skewers that promise "15-minute flavor". Seasoned Skewers are flavored skewers that are infused with essential oils and herbal extracts in a variety of combinations. You put your unseasoned food on the skewer, wait 15 minutes, and cook.

Oh no, more food magic! I just don't know if I can take it. I mean, what's wrong with marinating the old fashioned way?

Reluctantly I gave the skewers a try. I skewered shrimp, scallops and vegetables on the sticks, waited a bit and grilled.

Can you say amazed?

Can you say ingenious?

I really had one of those "why didn't someone think of this sooner?" kind of moments. It's clever, tasty, all natural, and fat and sodium free, too. The skewers come in Honey Bourbon, Citrus Rosemary, Thai Coconut Lime, Mexican Fiesta, Garlic Herb and Indian Mango Curry. I tried the Thai Coconut Lime and sure enough my food was flavored perfectly. Pretty aromatic, I'd say.

Ok, so it might not be polymer box filled with foam, but Seasoned Skewers sure do the trick when you don't want to do it yourself.

Capirotada

2006-05-12T06:29:00.000-07:00

After my creepy-crawling yet delicious snail experience I have decided to switch gears and go for something a wee bit more familiar, something that didn’t require “farming” and something that wouldn’t elicit sneers and calls of “you’re insane!” I wanted to enjoy something sweet, warm and familiar. I wanted to make Capirotada.

Capirotada is a dish with a rich legacy. Also known as Mexican bread pudding, Capirotada is a dessert with as many variations as you can imagine. There is no one definitive recipe, it’s open to many broad interpretations. Perhaps this is why I enjoy it so much; it’s always different no matter where you go. But no matter where eat it, you can be assured that you’ll find the one ingredient that makes it Capirotada through and through: cheese.

Yes, cheese.

Capirotada is traditionally served during Lent. My grandmother would make it a few times a year or whenever she found herself with a surplus of stale bread, and without fail it would disappear in seconds. There’s something about that savory bite of cheese hidden within the flavors of cinnamon, cloves and raisins. It’s a natural pairing, even if I did think it was strange as a child. Ah, how tastes change, no?

The history of the Capirotada is long and complex. As with many Mexican dishes, Capirotada traces its roots back to the old world, where various centuries-old Spanish cookbooks mention its predecessor. Even further back we see a distant relative mentioned by the Romans entitled Sala Cattaba, a mixture of bread, liquid (more on this later), savories such as vegetables, fowl, meat and fat, and a dressing that made of mint, pepper, celery, pennyroyal, pine nuts, vinegar, honey, water and cheese. Throughout history, this potted bread pudding has changed over time, but it has always managed to keep its sweet & savory element intact.

Fast-forward a couple of hundred years. It’s not clear exactly when the Capirotada made its official crossover into the world of sweets, but legend has it that meat was omitted sometime during the 19th century, mostly for religious observances. It’s this version that you’ll find throughout Mexico–if you’re lucky, that is. José Luis Juárez López, a food writer from Mexico, says that Capirotada is in danger of extinction and isn’t a part of too many food celebrations today. Certainly disheartening.

Present-day recipes of Capirotada can often leave you confused. You’d be hard pressed to find matching recipes no matter where you looked, as ingredients, quantities and preparation methods can vary from cook to cook. There is a general consensus, however, which states that Capirotada includes bread, a liquid, some solids in the form of raisins and nuts, and of course cheese (hallelujah Matt screams!)

Bread forms the basis of this dish. It’s the foundation. As I mentioned earlier, my grandmother always used stale bread as it seems to hold up better. If you’re using fresh bread you’ll want to toast it before using it. Capirotada is usually made with Bolillos, small round loaves of bread found in Mexican markets. Once stale they make the perfect texture for bread pudding.

A sauce must be made to pour over the chunks of bread. This liquid is basically made of water, brown sugar, cloves and cinnamon sticks, reduced to a syrup and strained. Variations include the addition of anise tea or a piloncillo, The piloncillo, a small cone of dried unrefined brown sugar, is the Mexican secret incredient and can be found in Latin markets. To me it’s what makes my Capirotada. You may also notice that Capirotada uses a sugar syrup and not cream and eggs like other bread puddings. But fear not, it’s still delicious.

The beauty of this dish is its personalized nature. I am content with the sole inclusion of raisins, but feel free to add currants, pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, peanuts, even fresh or dried fruit.

Then there’s the cheese. Yes, cheese. A nice cheddar freshly shredded tastes delicious and is more subtle in this dish than you might imagine. Similar to apple pie with a slice of cheddar on top, cheese in this bread pudding really shines and adds dimension. Besides, it’s not Capirotada without it! Other recipes call for Queso Añejo, Seco or Ranchero, but I find a simple cheddar works just fine.

Black pepper, chopped tomatoes, onions and bay leaves can be added. No, your browser hasn’t accidentally taken you to another recipe. We’re still talking Capirotada here, folks. Personally this is a tad bit different for me and not at all the way I grew up eating it. But experiment and try it, you might just like it!

Capirotada
Mexican desserts aren’t famous for their over-the-top sweetness. If you prefer your bread pudding on the sweeter side simply adjust the sugar level in the liquid.

ingredients
3 cups of water
3 large cinnamon sticks
3 to 4 Pilloncillos (if not available you can substitute 1 1/2 cups brown sugar)
3 to 4 oz raisins
4 bolillo rolls (found in Mexican markets) or 1 loaf french bread, cut into pieces
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

Method
In a saucepan, bring water, sugar and cinnamon sticks to a boil then reduce and simmer for 10 minutes. Break bread into small 2 inch pieces (if using fresh bread you'll need to toast it beforehand) and place in a baking dish and sprinkle with raisins and half of the shredded cheese. Strain the syrup liquid, removing the cinnamon sticks, and pour the syrup over the bread until well absorbed. Top with remaining cheese and bake at 350 for 20-30 minutes or until syrup is absorbed. This dish may be served warm or cold and topped with fresh whipped cream or ice cream. Enjoy!

A Snail's Pace

2006-05-07T13:34:00.000-07:00

Keeping a garden of herbs and vegetables is one of my greatest pleasures; keeping that garden grow without the use of pesticides and chemicals is on my biggest headaches. It doesn’t matter how on top of things I am, my enemies never fail to secretly invade and set up camp when I’m not looking. Because of this I can’t grow basil, my cabbage looks like Swiss cheese and I’m probably the only person I know with sorrel that looks like lace, elaborate decorative holes and all.

I’ve done the ladybug thing, and they clearly didn’t find my garden as nice as I thought they would and they fled. I’ve tried covering certain plants with protective covering but darn if the pests aren’t creative. I’ve mixed things bugs don’t like with those that they love, hoping to put an end to the endless buffet. Nothing worked. I’ve tried bargaining with them, even telling the snail colony that recently moved in that I’ll trade them a leafy green if they "leaf" my herbs alone. They didn’t listen.

Always one to make lemonade out of lemons (Meyers, thank you very much), I remembered an article I read in SF Gate about a man named Victor Yool and his penchant for snails. You see, this man not only loved serving these meaty mollusks to guests, but he harvested them from his own backyard! BINGO! If my snails were going to eat my greens then I was going to eat them! It’s a cruel world indeed.

After some research and a quick chat with a zoologist acquaintance, I decided to pursue this experiment seriously. I learned that thanks to an Italian immigrant who came to California 150 years ago, the common garden snail is actually the edible variety. I had discovered a goldmind of Helix aspersa in my yard and soon they would be swimming in butter and garlic. And I couldn’t wait.

But wait I would have to. Even though I refrain from using chemicals and pesticides in my yard, I couldn’t be assured that my snow poke pests hadn’t visited a neighbor’s yard and ingested any harmful toxins. I would have to purge them, a process that involved containing them and feeding them greens, corn meal and water for a minimum of two weeks.

Ladies and gentleman, my name is Matt. I am a Snail Wrangler.

For two weeks I had to endure the gasp of friends and the disgust of my partner. It turns out that snails creep out quite a bit of people. But I can’t figure out why. What’s not to love about a slow moving shapeless blob with movie antennae that leaves behind a trail of slime and long, black stringy waste? Apparently tons.

Nevertheless, I forged ahead for the sake of culinary experience.

After my guests had cleaned out their systems they were ready to be processed. I said a small prayer before dunking my mollusks into boiling water, shell and all. There are different schools of thought on what to do here; some methods involve layering snails in coase sea salt which causes them to disgorge themselves before the boiling process, but I went straight for a quick kill.

They cooked for about 10-15 minutes and required a change of water. I also had to skim off the foam that appears on the surface. Once the foam was gone I was ready.
I rinsed the snails under cool water and used a small fork to remove the snail from its shell. This was done with a fine blend of facination and disgust; everything I’ve always wondered about snail anatomy was slipping around in my hand.

Farming snails from my garden and then cooking them gave me a crash course in their anatomy. After a deep breath I decided I didn’t want to consume their hepatopancreas, an organ that functions similar to a liver and pancreas in mammals. This is only a personal preference–some escargot lovers eat the entire thing.

After removing the hepatopancreas I chopped up the remaining meat. My shells weren’t terribly big and I knew I’d never be able to get a whole cooked snail back in so I opted for a nice chop. Into the pan went butter, garlic, parsley, white wine, sea salt and my snail meat, long enough to heat through and cook a small bit of alcohol off. Once done, my snail bits went back into the shell and back in the oven for a few minutes. Once done I topped with more parsley and dug in.

They were just as delicious as could be. Sure, there was unnerving snail foam all over the kitchen. Yes, there was a distinct earthy smell that hung around from boiling the mollusks, but one taste of that buttery, garlicky goodness made this science experience rewarding, delicious and educational.

As far as my garden goes, my basil still may be half-eaten and my parsley full of holes, but it’s okay. The snails may have won this battle, but I’m the one with plenty of recipes in my arsenal.

Disclaimer: You never know where your snails may have been. Because of this please use caution when eating snails from your garden. They may have come in contact with pesticides and you do not want to ingest that.

Product Review: Reynolds Fun Shapes

2006-05-05T12:07:00.000-07:00

I'm a huge fan of anything that encourages kids to get in the kitchen and prepare food. Like many others, I have a less-than-favorable view on fast food in this country and its effect on our waistlines. Besides, so many are far removed from the actual act of cooking and preparing food and I personally find that disheartening. I believe the kitchen can be the center of the home, and cooking and eating together have benefits that can be felt for a lifetime.

When I was asked to review these Reynolds fun shapes my immediate reaction was "Hey, that's cute!" But as they sat on my desk for a while and friends and colleagues saw them I realized that they were not only cute but also worthy of a mention. I gave a few to co-workers with families and the reactions were all the same: they were a hit. And for some parents with sugar concerns, these baking cups and cake pans aren't only for sweet treets. They made great tiny pans for a guacamole-inspired 5 layer dip in the shape of a star, a simple quick pizza as well as egg-shaped cornbread.

Not only are they cute, but they created a kitchen activity that brings people together. Now you gotta love that.

Please remember to recycle.

Thanks But No Thanks

2006-05-04T12:09:00.000-07:00

STYLIST: "Hello Matt. My name is xxx and I am a food stylist. I was wondering if I could drop off my book sometime next week for someone to review."

MATT: "Oh, but of course. I'd love to see it."

STYLIST: "Great. And by the way, your Cinco De Mayo ad from last year was just terrible."

MATT: "Excuse me?"

STYLIST: "Your ad, the one you ran last year, it was just terrible. The food styling and the photography were just awful."

MATT: "Ah, um, well I see. Thank you for calling, I'll check out your book next week."

The End. Literally.

Ladies and gentleman, I don't need to tell you that when you are looking for work you should be as polite and mannered as possible. Bad-mouthing the work of a potential employer as well as other colleagues in your field is a sure-fire way to make sure the big door closes on your opportunity faster than Donald can say "you're fired!"

It's just a thought.

Gone Bananas

2006-05-03T19:03:00.000-07:00

I've been on a banana kick lately. It's not so much out of concern for increasing my fresh fruit intake as much as it is my sheer, unadulterated laziness. You see, after a day of tasting food and writing about food and taking fun little pictures of food the last thing I want to do is see/read/touch/the stuff when I get home. Luckily for me this culinary exhaustion only lasts a few hours and then I start dreaming about gluttony all over again.

When this happens I usually want to go for the easiest, simplest thing possible. Enter the banana. High in carbs but low in fats, the banana is what I consider a remarkable fruit. It's quick, handy, and utterly satisfying, delivering significant amounts of vitamin C and potassium in one compact carrying case. It's my one "go-to" food when I'm over food. It requires no thought, it satisfies and it's better than a mindless bag of salty chips. Ok, most of the time.

I'd like to say that I've tried numerous methods in my kitchen and offer you "the best banana bread!" recipe or "the world's ultimate banana muffin!" instead of the recipe that is at the end of this blog, but I haven't. I'm not much of a baker. But I can tell you this: I can make a mean Bananas Foster. Heaven knows I've got plenty of practice! (I've made it my life's goal to perfect any recipe that utilizes alcohol, you know.)

So tonight, I'll put aside the stack of food magazines that need to be read, I'll stop researching the 12 plus bottles of bbq sauce on my desk for a grilling sauce taste-off, I'll turn off the cell phone and sit down to a favorite of the King himself.

And here I said I wanted something simple for dinner?

The Elvis

I first had this sandwich at The Peanut Butter Company located in the West Village. My friend looked at me in horror when I ate the whole thing and then asked me "How could you? How could you eat that?" I told her it was simple. With my mouth.

Ingredients
Thick sliced bread (wheat works best, methinks)
Peanut butter
Banana slices
Honey
Bacon - optional (preferably thick sliced, just the way the King liked it)

Method
Toast the bread and slather both sides with peanut butter. Yes, slather. Top one piece of bread with sliced bananas, bacon and drizzle with honey on top. Place remaining slice of bread on top and enjoy.

Grab napkins. It's messy.

A Very Important Date

2006-05-01T16:11:00.000-07:00

Sharing good food with friends is one of life's greatest pleasures; having parents who are equally as passionate is a blessing. Wait, maybe that's where it came from? By golly, I think that's it!

Last week while returning from a family function in Arizona, we decided to make a small detour to the date capital of the United States, parents in tow. It was even more special considering my parents used to take us as children through Indio, California on road trips just to get a date shake. The warm, dry weather, the towering date palms and the uber-sweet milkshake made with plump dates will always be one of my fondest memories.

Dates are considered to be the oldest known tree crop to be cultivated. For more than 6,000 years dates have been an important food source, allowing portability, long-term storage and most importantly, sugar and flavor. Originally grown only in the Middle East, the date business in the United States is credited to Frederick Oliver Popenoe. In 1907, Popenoe moved to Alta Dena and opened a tropical plant nursery named West India Gardens. After a few years he sent his sons Paul and Wilson to the Middle East and North Africa in search of tropical plants and trees for the nursery, and around 1913 his sons sent back 16,000 date offshoots from Iraq, Algeria and eastern Arabia. Voila! The date industry was born.

Date trees require quite a bit of heat to grow, which explains their prevalence in Southern California's dessert and parts of Arizona. Although date trees are quite adept at preserving water during the long days of sunshine, they also require immense amounts of water at certain times of the year, depending on the growing stage.

Now on to the tricky part. Modern date trees require "grower-assisted" pollination as Mother Nature can oftentimes be unpredictable. This involves a very high ladder and clearly a lack of fear of heights. After pollination comes harvesting, fruit arm decentering, strand reduction, thinning, ringing, bagging, tying down, and a few other processes that my simple brain can't even understand. Seriously, it's enough to confuse me and make me realize that the sweet, caramelly fruit I love so much actually takes quite a bit of man power to grow. Date trees and growers, you've certainly earned my endless respect. I'll never look at a date the same way.

I'll leave the botany to the professionals, my area of expertise is good old fashioned eating! After conducting a very informal tasting, mattbites has come to the conclusion that any date is a favorite of mine. How could I be so cruel and just pick one?

The abada date, also known as the black date, is dark in color with a very sweet taste and creamy texture. Their appearance is striking–so is their flavor.

The Zahidi date is light in color with a firm outside and great sweetness inside. They are certainly not the sweetest dates available, making them good for recipes where you don't want the date to overpower other ingredients.

The Medjool date is a favorite and often called the "King Of Dates". If you're going to eat only one date it would have to be this, hands down. Perfectly sweet with a gorgeous color, large and delicious.

Deglet Noor dates are a bit chewier and drier, making it perfect for baking and trail mixes.

Khadrawi dates are in the middle of the sweetness scale. The flesh of the Khadrawi is moist and soft. Grab a napkin.

Bahri dates are visually stunning; they're almost perfectly round with a rich, vanilla-like flavor. I could eat pounds and pounds of these. Oh wait, I just did.

When it comes to using dates in the kitchen, dates are happy in cakes, muffins, breads, stuffed with cheese or just served alongside a simple cheese tray. Their big sweet taste contrasts well with savory foods, and a few dates go a long long way. My ultimate favorite way with dates involves wrapping them with smoky bacon, popping them into the oven and enjoying them hot. (In fact, it's the real reason I enjoy AOC so damn much, but you didn't hear that from me.) But for the ultimate sweet tooth out there, I can think of no better way to savor the sweetness than in a cold, creamy date shake. One sip and I'm in heaven.

Oasis Date Gardens Ranch Date Milk Shake

1/2 cup seeded, chopped dates (you can use any variety)
3 scoops vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt
1/2 cup milk

Combine milk and dates in a blender and puree. Add ice cream or yogurt and mix until smooth. Smile.

The Fine Cheese Company

2006-04-18T16:14:00.000-07:00

When I was 18 I had a wise idea; I was going to pack a suitcase, get a student work permit and visit a friend in London for 6 months. I knew the difficulties in working in a foreign country from friends and figured I better jump on the chance to make this cosmopolitan dream a reality. So with passport and a work visa in hand, I hit the UK running.

Like many other 18 year olds, at the time I thought I knew everything and that I could wing it. The phrase "culture shock" wasn't even a part of my vocabulary, and why should it have been? My bravado and wanderlust were going to carry me through my travels, naturally! Boy, was I wrong.

Apparently I forgot to pack my motivation and confidence.

What I discovered was a big, giant, bustling urban sprawl, filled with cars and people living their busy, busy lives. It was quite the opposite of the slow, relaxed Texan pace I knew. I also discovered how to live off of only £3 a day, and most importantly I discovered that I wasn't cut out for a retail job on Bond street. Nothing better than a big giant city to slap a boy into reality!

Of course I wouldn't change my experience for anything. It wasn't until passing through London 13 years later on my way to Spain that I was able to laugh at the experience and see it through a different set of eyes. A set of only slightly more mature eyes – I still have a whole lot of growing up to do and I'm fighting it at every step of the way!

So why am I sharing all this? Because I have regrets. I regret, first and foremost, spending two months in London and never venturing out of my tiny gastronomic comfort zone. I regret having never visited the places I dream about today, from farmer's markets and pubs to places like Neal's Yard Dairy. I regret having gone too young in my life, and I regret biting off more than I could chew. However, I hope to make all these regrets disappear someday, and I hope it's soon.

I've still got a little bit of that wanderlust in me.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ok, so I may live on the other side of the planet on the edge of Western civilization, but thanks to importers and modern technology we're all able to enjoy foods from around the world. While I'm talking about England I must include a blurb about The Fine Cheese Company of Bath, England. I was recently given their English Pickles to taste and can I just tell you that my socks have officially been knocked off? As if I wasn't impressed enough by the adorable packaging, man, this stuff is amazing. Meant to be served with various cheeses, these savory and tangy pickles are made with natural ingredients and come in Apple, Plum, Onion and Tomato. A generous dollop of the English Onion on a piece of sharp cheddar (I mean English Cheddar, naturally) sends me out of this galaxy. And their crackers are the perfect accompaniment to cheese. If you can get your hands on the Charcoal crackers, by all means, do!

Now if you'll excuse me I have some almost-empty jars that need licking.

Online at The Fine Cheese Company.

Secret Eating

2006-04-14T07:46:00.000-07:00

It came to my attention as I stood in my kitchen eating an overripe avocado sprinkled with sea salt that surely anyone who caught a glimpse of how barbaric and savage I was acting would surely run away in terror. I mean, I was in my element, I was alone, with nothing more than green debris on my face and a spoon firmly planted in my hand. I'd never show the world how fast I could actually eat an avocado, and I certainly would never admit that had there been two or three I'd have eaten them, too. But I didn't have to worry about that. I was alone, in the privacy of my kitchen, able to let manners and etiquette temporarily disappear.

I was a pig.

Someone once said "We all have something we like to eat in secret." Or something like that. And the more I think about it, I believe that we do all have things we enjoy eating in secret. For whatever reason. Maybe it's an appalling quantity of something we'd never want anyone to see. Maybe it's the most bizarre combination of ingredients. Perhaps it's something so bad-for-you, so trashy, that we dare not give up our food snobbery public image.

To my sisters and female companions that quietly indulge in copious sugar and salt during special times, I salute you.

To my friend who mixes sugar, avocado and sour cream in a dixie cup and eats it when nobody's watching, my hat's off to you.

To my colleage who will eat 2 pints of Ben & Jerry's ice cream in one sitting and then claim his lactose intolerance doesn't allow ice cream, I'm down.

To a certain relative that wraps whatever she can get her hands on in a tortilla and devours it, I love you, Mom. (ooops! no names, matt, no names!)

So my dear friends, I ask you: What do you like to eat in secret? I'd love to know. Come on, open up. Oh, and feel free to comment anonymously, lest anyone thinks you are a glutton like me.

Gimme a Beet!

2006-04-12T07:40:00.000-07:00

We never ate beets growing up; they simply never made their way onto my mother's shopping list. However, I've taken the time to quickly correct that situation and am currently making up for lost time. I've got purple-stained fingers for proof.

Beets, also known as beetroot, often take a back seat in the vegetable world, and that saddens me. Beets are often relegated to a strange shelf of a produce department, way in the back. I've heard friends and customers say:

"Well, even if I did buy them, I'd have absolutely no idea what to do with them."

"If I really wanted them I'd buy them canned. It's much easier."

"Do I look Russian to you? Nyet."

"Beets taste like dirt. No thank you."

"Why is this creepy tattooed guy following me around the produce department? I"m calling security."

I'm ok with being on a one-man mission to sing the praises of beets. Because properly done, beets are so utterly satisfying, so unique and flavorful, that they become something of a superstar on the table. No, trust me on this one. There's nothing like them. That nutty, sweet, earthy, iron-y flavor cannot be matched by any other of Mother Nature's vegetables.

Ok, so if I can't sell people on flavor surely I can sell them on nutrition. Beets pack a nutritional punch and contain compounds that protect against heart disease and other maladies. Beets have betacyanin, giving them that deep purple color, and it's also rich in beneficial flavonoids. Include decent amounts of folate, manganese, fiber, potassium, iron and magnesium and you'll see why beets are the way to go.

(However, beets are high in Oxalates, naturally-occurring substances found in the animals, plants, and us. Oxalates can become concentrated in body fluids and crystalize, so you should consult your doctor if you are prone to kidney or gallbladder problems. I am not a doctor, fyi.)

Beets have the highest sugar content of all vegetables, which not only gives them that unique sweetness but also plays a big part in their texture when roasted. The sugars carmelize, giving them a delicious sweet, roasted taste and shiny appearance. But you don't have to fire up the oven to enjoy them–grate beets into salads or on top of soups, sauté the greens on top of the beets as you would mustard greens or chard, juice them, microwave them, steam them, fry them, mash them, etc.

However you prepare them, be gentle. You don't want to bruise or cut the beet's skin when rinsing them before using. They may seem hearty, and to an extent they are, but treat them with kind hands and let them lavish you with taste and good-for-you compounds.

What's your way with beets?

P.S. How do I state this gingerly? Consuming beets can often leave you with Beeturia, a harmless physiological process that turns, um, well, your "output" red. Not to worry, it's just your body's way of ridding itself of excess pigments found in beets.

Hello, Jicama!

2006-04-10T17:40:00.000-07:00

I must sheepishly admit that ever since the first day of Spring a few weeks ago our grill has not seen a day off. It seems that our menus at home have been created, modified, planned and changed in order to accommodate outdoor cooking. It's not as if good weather is fleeting, at least not here in Los Angeles. But I just can't help it. Grilling is one of life's greatest pleasures. It's the culmination of great food, wonderful company, sunshine, flip flops and a few beers. Or several.

No matter what we've thrown on the grill, there's always one constant: Jicama Salad. I wish I could pinpoint when my love affair with this bulbous root began, but suffice it to say that the cool sweet crunch pairs well with just about anything you barbeque. Grilled fish? It's fabulous. Ribs slathered in sauce? Yep. Smoky grilled vegetables hot off the grill? Of course.

Jicama is a root vegetable that's native to Mexico and South America. It's fabulous both raw and cooked, and the best part is that it happily retains the crunch when cooked. Just peel this less-than-attractive knobby bulb and use it to your heart's desire. It's especially delicious in salads and stir fries.

Jicama Slaw
I adore this recipe. It doesn't require exact amounts of anything (my favorite way of cooking) and always comes out just right.

INGREDIENTS
2 cups shredded jicama
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded & shredded
1/2 carrot, finely shredded
1/2 cup thinly sliced yellow bell pepper
1 finely chopped shallot
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

METHOD
Whisk together the vinegar, lime juice and olive oil and set aside. With a cheesecloth or a thin towel, squeeze the excess water from the jicama, cucumber and carrots. In a large bowl, combine the jicama, cucumber and carrots with the bell pepper, shallot and cilantro. Toss with the vinegar mixture and coat well, allowing to sit for 15 minutes. Toss before serving.

A Showdown!

2006-04-09T07:28:00.000-07:00

Can I just tell you how much I love DVRs? You know, those big sleek boxes that sit on top of your television that record hours upon hours of television programming, allowing you to watch things you never really cared to watch before but hey, now you can? I've never watched as much television as I have in the past 2 years, thanks to my little slice of technological heaven.

Having my Digital Video Recorder (yes, like everyone else I seem to refer to it as "TIVO" even though Tivo is a brand but I'll leave the marketing lessons to my brilliant friend Olivier) has let me finally reacquaint myself with the Food Network and every investigative reporting-style show ever broadcast. But that's not always a good thing. I've come to the conclusion that with the exception of Alton Brown the Food Network exists to create and exercise their use of puns. It's food programming taken down to its lowest common denominator, blanched out and pan fried till it's salty, crispy and unidentifiable. All the history, difficulty and mental nutritional value has been removed. To think there's a "Food Network" that doesn't travel the globe, interview the movers and shakers of the food world nor show where food comes from is beyond frustrating to me. I honestly believe they can do better. Sure, they've showed me how twinkies get their injection of frosting and where red vines and m&ms come from, but please people, give me a break. I want some real food, damnit.

(Did I wake up on the wrong side of the bed or something? Geez, Matt!)

I've accepted the fact that I should not expect too much from food television programming now. I've seen a few episodes of Bravo's Top Chef and probably won't be watching it again. Food and Reality don't seem to mix too well in my book, and that's ok. I mean, I want it to work, I really do. It's just sometimes it's a bit lackluster.

However, I must say I am looking forward to NBC's Celebrity Cooking Showdown. Finally, a show that won't pretend to be anything else but what it is: a showdown. God I love that word. Showdown. But here's the premise: celebrities will be paired with famous chefs, have a culinary "boot camp", then prepare a meal under strenuous conditions. How can you not love that? Besides, the show stars Govind Armstrong of LA's Table 8, one of my favorite places in town. And he's one hell of a great guy. What's more, according to my secret source at NBC, the competition heats up and one celebrity ends up needing stitches! INJURY! BLOOD! SHOWDOWN! There are a few other tidbits I'd love to reveal right now, but this is a food blog, not a gossip blog. Some times are better left unsaid.

So needless to say I might just actually skip my DVR and watch, real-time.

If I remember how to do that.

Review: Heineken Premium Light

2006-04-07T06:12:00.000-07:00

My bottle of Heineken Premium Light arrived in quite beautiful packaging, complete with product info and a nice opener. I'm a sucker for nice packaging, but as I opened the silver flight case I thought to myself, as many people do: Light Beer? What do I know about Light Beer? Other than Amstel Light, I couldn't think of a time where I've actually enjoyed sitting down to a beer that attempts to offer flavor while going easy on the alcohol, calories and carb content. But I was going to go into this with an open mind, even if I heard the purist rants of my brother-in-law in the back of my head.

(My brother-in-law, a professional brewmaster, has been making beer for over 20 years. Hello, Jim.)

I devised a very informal blind taste testing with a few friends. I told them they'd be tasting two light beers and one regular beer. We talked about Heineken's "luxury light" category, which I still don't quite understand but I believe it to be an area where people want quality and flavor and want to "socialize without sacrifice." I have yet to understand this marketing concept, I think it might have been easier to just say "Hey, we're Heineken. This is our attempt to get into the premium category with a light beer. Taste it and let us know what you think." Oh wait, I think that's what they said to me. But I digress...

As it turns out, the beers sampled (Heineken, Amstel Light, Heineken Premium Light) were all very easily identifiable, the latter through the process of elimination. The verdict? It's good. Now, you may not enjoy it if you favor giant hearty big dark beers, but I must say that I prefer my sips on the lighter side (which is why I've always been a big Hefeweizen fan). Lighter in color and body than even Amstel Light, the Premium Light has a great flavor, light body, is still very Heineken, and would pair nicely with food. Will I order it and drink it when I'm out? Absolutely. I've got an expanding waistline I'm trying to keep in check.

Product Reviews

2006-04-07T06:08:00.000-07:00

After a few PR inquiries and emails from companies (as well as clearance from the HR Department of my day job!), mattbites has decided to review products. Now, these reviews are not the same as my regular postings where I go crazy over a piece of cheese or drink a new cocktail and then blog all drunk about it and embarrass myself later with typos and grammatical errors and whatnot. No sir, these are different. I'll always let you know when something was submitted, I'll review it honestly, and I will never accept payment. Ever. Money has a tendency to change things, not always for the better, and this is supposed to be fun, people! Besides, I already gots me a day job, yo.

All Natural

2006-04-05T12:55:00.000-07:00

A bottle of 7-Up came across my desk today for work. I'm not a big soda drinker so I didn't think anything of it until I looked closely and noticed a small band underneath the familiar 7-Up Logo.

"7-UP. Now 100% Natural."

I remember a time in my early 20s, ringing up customers and stocking shelves at the original Whole Foods in Austin, Texas. Organic and natural foods were from another planet, where brands like Ah Soy and Amy's were staples and you'd never see a mainstream, conventional brand even come through the receiving back door.

How times have changed. Whole Foods is no longer that little hippie grocery store on North Lamar, and retail behemoth Wal-Mart has announced their large-scale effort to court the organic and natural shopper by increasing their natural category.

Is this a good thing? I have mixed feelings.

I believe in food in its most pure, unadulterated state. I get organic. I prefer foods free from additives, foods that have been minimally processed. But I can't help but feel that major food manufactures are simply jumping on a bandwagon for the sake of sales.

Full disclosure: I am still in the grocery business. I do not mean to bite the hand that feeds me. It's just all so interesting to me.

Considering that the organic trade is the fastest growing category of foods in the retail sector I suppose all this makes sense. There was a time when eating natural and organic meant filling your body with pure, balanced, good-for-you foods. You weren't overloading on sugar and hydrogenated fats because that simply wasn't the profile of the category. But now it seems several companies are revamping their ingredients list so that they can be seen in a new, natural light.

Consider this: Silk Soy Milk is from Dean Foods. Cascadian Farms is owned by General Mills, Colgate-Palmolive recently bought Tom's of Maine. Kraft owns Boca Burgers, and Unilever recently introduced organic Ragu. Hormel has a new line called Hormel Natural Choice, and Frito Lay Natural & Organic has been available for some time.

So I ask: Is this a good thing? Is organic less important because it's backed by a large food comglomerate? Is it better because more people are eating natural and organic foods? Or are they just eating the same unbalanced foods but this time they're non-gmo, non-hydrogenated and less processed? I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Egg & Potato Chip Tortilla

2006-04-05T11:21:00.000-07:00

Along with relatively good health and a wonderful loving family, I have been blessed with some of the world's most amazing friends. Not only do they put up with my shenanigans and crazy-loving ways, but they think of me when they travel and bring me fun stuff. Case in point: my friends Paul and Wade.

If I didn't love these guys so much, I'd probably be incredibly bitter and jealous (read: ok, I still am, damnit) that my friend Paul was the only person I know who was able to pick up the phone and easily secure a reservation at El Bulli. Without the wait. Yea yea yea, it's all who you know, I realize, but hey, I'd like to know them too. Is that too much to ask for?

Paul works in the wine business and is my regular wine sage. It's hard to be angry or jealous with someone who gives you hours of advice and lets you raid their wine cellar when you visit. So I'll be nice about this.

Oh, back to the gifts. Sensing my seething envy, these guys were thoughtful enough to schlep back Ferran Adria's El Bulli Cookbook for me along with his book Cocinar En Casa Con Caprabo y Ferran Adria. While apparently nothing can match the experience of dining at El Bulli, just getting these books from them comes pretty damn close, if you ask me. I know I haven't said it enough, but guys, thank you.

Trying to make my way through the cookbook reminds me of my 8th grade science class. Unfortunately I was too busy passing notes to pay much attention. But Adria's book Cocinar En Casa has been such a great read filled with interesting ways of preparing dishes using creativity and everyday grocery store items. (Incidentally, this book was developed in conjuction with the Spanish supermaket chain Caprabo and is available in Spain.) I've discovered a new favorite–his take on the classic Spanish tortilla using potato chips. But I ask: do I really need to find another way to incorporate potato chips into my diet?

Egg & Potato Chip Tortilla
Was I Spanish in a past life? Oh wait, yes. Nevermind. Anyway, the Spanish Tortilla has got to be one of life's most basic pleasures. It's always perfect, any time of day, and always hits the spot. This recipe uses potato chips in place of the regular potatoes and can be prepared in minutes. I must thank Food & Wine magazine for the translation.

Ingredients
4 large eggs
2 cups crushed potato chips
2 tablespoons finely chopped Serrano ham
2 tablespoons finely chopped piquillo peppers
freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

Method
1. Preheat the broiler and position a rack 8 inches from the heat. Beat the eggs in a medium bowl. Transfer half of the beaten eggs to another bowl, stir in the crushed potato chips and let stand until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining beaten eggs, Serrano ham and piquillo peppers and season with pepper.

2. In a small nonstick overproof skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the egg mixture and cook over moderately high heat until the bottom is set and golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and broil for about 2 minutes, or until the top of the tortilla is golden and the center is slightly jiggly. Slide the tortilla onto a place, cut it quarters and serve.

on the web
Paul Marcus Wines
El Bulli

A Monday Meme

2006-04-03T13:20:00.000-07:00

Ok, so a few of you know I'm relatively new to the food blogging world. As I was telling my food blog idol Melissa at Traveler's Lunchbox this morning, it's definitely a labor of love, but being a part of the great online community makes it all worth every single effort. It's incredible.

After I started blogging I wondered when I'd get tagged for a meme. I waited anxiously, quietly, wanting to be part of this invisible baton-passing that is a meme. Self indulgent? Absolutely. But you also find out things about people you'd never find out otherwise. And then to my surprise 4 came in one week. So without further delay, I'm going to attempt to tackle them here, in no particular order, over the next few weeks. I hope you don't get too bored.

The Recipe Collection Meme

Where do you obtain the recipes you prepare?
Because of my work I am incessantly reading, clipping, jotting and hoarding recipes from just about every source I come in contact with. Magazines, cookbooks, friends, authors and contacts keep my brain full of things to try.

How often do you cook a new recipe?
Several times a week. Sometimes they are nothing more than just tasting a simple recipe, other times they can be rather elaborate. Weekends are generally reserved for those kind of recipes; nothing makes me happier than locking myself in the kitchen and experimenting.

Where do you store your favorite recipes?
My favorite recipes are stored in a few places - I'd hate to lose or misplace them. Printed copies go into a binder in my home office as well as a folder in my work office. They're also stored on my computer in a database for quick and easy reference.

How large is your recipe pile? Is it organized? How?
At home I tend to keep 10 to 20 of my most current and new cookbooks close by, and when I run out of space they go into "the library". I am blessed with a large production area & library room at my office for 15 years worth of magazines and cookbooks. I couldn't even count them if I tried.

As far as being organized, let's just say mostly :)

What is the oldest recipe in your to try pile?
The oldest recipe would have to be a traditional mole that I have carried with me for at least 12 years. I have a mental block when it comes to preparing food my grandmother made; I know I will never match nor come close to her expertise and it stops me from trying. But one day, one day...

Are you really ever going to make all those recipes in your to try pile?
But of course! I don't know if you know me and my partner, but heck, we're big boys. We can eat!

But seriously, yes. As a marketer it's my job to promote food and come up with ideas; testing recipes is part of the process.

Do you follow a recipe exactly or modify as you go?
It really all depends. If I bake I never veer from the method - it's crucial to be exact. Otherwise, some modifying occurs, especially if I am substituting certain ingredients for work.

What is one new recipe that you're scared to try?
Hands down it would be Barbacoa de Cabeza. Barbacoa, or slow cooked cow's head, is one of the most tender and amazing things I've ever tasted. It's served with onion and cilantro on tender handmade corn tortillas. I'd love to learn how to do it, yet knowing I'd have to personally remove the eyes, ears and tongue? I'm simply not that brave.

And to those friends I tagged, I apologize. Or say "you're welcome". Depending on your personal views :)

Dreaming of Spain

2006-03-31T14:55:00.000-08:00

My love affair with Spain borders on the absurd; tears form in my eyes when I talk about my past visits, when I email or call my Spanish friends I'm always left choked up, and eating anything Spanish at home only serves to temporarily satisfy me but always leaves me longing for more.

This longing is exacerbated by the fact that Spain has been in the culinary hot seat for several years running now. But I'm certainly not complaining. One can't open a magazine or talk about food trends without acknowledging Spain's strong pull, and one need not look any further than WD-50 or Alinea to feel the influence of Roses' El Bulli.

Grocery shelves are being filled with Spanish items like never before, from Marcona Almonds to Zamorano cheese to Sherries and Riojas. And they're all hot sellers, too.

This is great for fans of Spanish cuisine, but what makes it all the more painful is the fact that for some time some of Spain's best foods could not legally be imported into the United States. Because there was not a Spanish slaughterhouse and curing facility that met the US Department of Agriculture's standards, items like chorizos and Jamón Iberico could not legally be imported in the United States. There have been a few American facilities like La Tienda of Williamsburg, Virginia and La Española of Los Angeles making Spanish foods, and while they're of the highest quality and quite delicious, there's nothing like the real thing.

Luckily, the Spanish and American governments have approved the first facility in Spain that will produce Spanish hams for domestic importing. We're still about a year away from tasting true Jamón on American soil, but what a happy and delicious day that will finally be. I'm bound to start crying all over again.

Pa Amb Tomaquet
Why is it some of life's greatest pleasures are the most basic? Out of everything I ate in Spain the first time I visited that I just can't stop eating regularly is Pa Amb Tomquet, known as Catalan tomato bread. It can be enjoyed on its own or served with anchovies, serrano ham, manchego cheese or capers. It's simplicity at its finest and always hits the spot.

Ingredients
4 slices of thick French bread, a good crusty kind
1 very ripe tomato, sliced in half
1 clove of garlic, peeled and halved
extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
sea salt

Method
Toast the slices by grilling or in a toaster. Rub the toasted slices with garlic halves and tomato halves. You want to really work the tomato into the bread, leaving you with a moist, pink surface. Discard the tomatoes, drizzle the toast with olive oil and sea salt and enjoy immediately.