wineline

K & L, Cinderella Wine

2009-10-14T22:26:00.013-04:00

K & L Wine Shopping List
Londer Pinot
L'hiver Shiraz
Husch Sauvignon Blanc
Kalinda Pinot Noir

. . .

Tonight's taste test. Bogle Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel v. Domaine de Courteillac. There's nothing very wrong with Bogle's Zin, but there's nothing very right with it either. Courteillac 5 hands down.

Buying good wine is at least as much about time as it is about money.

. . .

Cinderella Wine
Gary V's latest venture bills itself as "ridiculously low prices for 24 hours only.

Amagansett List

2009-09-26T19:19:00.012-04:00

Sand still in the favorite sneaks. And some wine recommendations, alerts, thoughts...

. . .

Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir - Oregon, with a name like that..., not cheap

Baxter Oppenlander Pinot Noir - Mendocino, delicious, not cheap

Copain Pinot Noir - Mendocino

Hartford Court Pinot Noir

L'Hiver (Copain Syrah Saisons des Vins L'Hiver ) - from the Copain people. Parker describes it as Copain's interpretation of a St-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage. A value-driven syrah that showcases the talents of winemaker Wells Guthrie. Try K&L.

Londer - great Mendocino pinot. 90 points Wine Spectator: "Fresh and floral, restrained and elegant, even understated, with dark plum, black cherry, herb and savory berry flavors that linger. Drink now through 2011. Also at K&L.

Mary Elke Pinot Noir

Neil Ellis - The eponymous sauvignon blanc is great, but Sincerely is not the same thing (it's their second label, and don't let Wine Chateau fool you by calling it Neil Ellis)

Raye's Hill Meritage and Pinot Noir

Take a look at Food & Wine best pinot noir.

Drinking Reds

2009-08-18T22:09:00.010-04:00

Fall. The leaves change, tennis moves indoors, put away the deck chairs, find the crockpot and the fleece.

And we start (keep) drinking some reds.

Bodegas Atalaya: 91 Points - Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate thinks this is a wine you might want to sleep with: "This is the first release of Atalaya. The 2007 Atalaya is a blend of Monastrell, Garnacha Tintorera, and other red grapes... purple-colored wine has an expressive bouquet of violets, spice box, leather, game, blueberry, and black cherry. On the palate it comes off as borderline kinky and definitely sexy with lots of easy-going flavor, superb depth, complexity, and a 45-second finish."

North Fork: We want them to good. Wouldn't that be grand? Drive out to the North Fork and grab a great wine. Some of them are good. But they're not a reliable bunch. So I skip them unless someone knows something I don't.

Pinot Noir: We like Copain, Londer, Calera, Raye's Hill, Goldeneye and Migration are a few CA pinots we like. A lot.

Syrah: Copain "L'Hiver" is a lovely silky Syrah, not too big and not too pricey.

Ribera: Man, they're good. Not too big, not too flashy, very reliable. You can't go very wrong with Arrocal. Really any of them. Here are some we like.

Bordeaux. I've been thinking a lot about Bordeaux. It's a very interesting brand: tripartite (basically corresponding to high, medium and plonk. We're not talking about three party harmony here. Forbes piece on cellarable and drinkable is worth a look. Drop some scratch and they won't disappoint. More here.

Speaking of wine labels (not), here is a cool collection from WebUrbanist.com of creative wine labels. The Wineline crew has not tasted Big Ass Red, as of yet. (And you can make your own damn label here).

Questions:
Does Bordeaux Superieur a designation we can trust?
Is there a new recipe for Merlot-rich, soft on tannin, high on drinkability, low on complexity Bordeaux? Like Kurt Courban?

Pinot Blanc

2009-05-25T13:22:00.007-04:00

Wall Street Journal’s "summer white secret" is Pinot Blanc.

From: Alsace
Varietal: Pinot Blanc with some Auxerrois mixed in
Alone or w/ food: with food

More here

Domaine Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés (WSJ winner, around $16)
Try Morrell

Albert Mann, Pinot Blanc: $16
Albert Mann, Pinot Blanc Auxerrois $18
Try Sherry-Lehman

Piedmont

2008-12-23T21:32:00.020-05:00

Forza Italia! Lots of wines from Piedmont in northwest Italy. Lots of good wines. Some winebuyers get confused. A few simple rules...

Good Names

Most of the big guys make good wines of every stripe, from an every day Dolcetta to a big, special Barolo.

Barolo is the bomb

The most famous grape in Piedmont is the noble Nebbiolo, which makes the long-lived Barolo and Barbaresco

A few names to look out for:
Baudanna
Brovia (Garblet Sue RP 95 pts)
Clerico (WS calls the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra "spectacular." Also try Pajana, which Piedmont review calls "potent, massive, super-ripe.")
Gaja (especially Sperss)
Vietti (especially Brunate and Rocche, WS 95 pts)

Dolcetto d'Alba

Dolcetto is a black wine grape variety widely grown in Piedmont. The name means "little sweet one," though it is nearly always a dry wine.

Brovia "Vigna Villej" (Available at PJ Wine, Astor)
Clerico Visadi (try it at Char No. 4)

Barbera d’Asti

Poderi Alasia "Rive" (try at Gabriel's NYC)

Arneis

Dry white made from the Arneis grape. Clerico, Vietti and other big guys make some of the best examples.

Going There?
Check out Forbes trip advisory

Anderson Valley and Mendocino, CA

2008-11-28T22:03:00.026-05:00

Anderson Valley and Mendocino, CA

Napa vintners have been sourcing grapes here for ages. But the area also produces its own wines, a lot of pinot noir as well as many other varietals. More about Anderson Valley here. More on Mendocino wineries here.

Copain
"Tous Ensemble" wines, which means appellation cuvees, which means really good Pinot.

Eaglepoint Ranch Winery
Much-lauded Granache and Syrah, plus the appellation blend Coro Mendocino. (We haven't tried them yet).

Edmeade
Makes a Zinfandel that even a non-Zin person will love. Single vineyard goodness. Available at Landmark Wines and Union Square Wines.

Goldeneye
A quantum of pinot with a Duckhorn pedigree. WS gave their pinot 92 points and called it: "rich and distinctive... loamy earth, black cherry, wild berry, savory spice and fresh earth scents."

Londer
Sophisticated, silky pinot noir, featured at The Albion River Inn's award-winning restaurant. 91 pts WS Chardonnay. Try NapaCabs and Empire.

Northpoint
A fresh, complex Viognier, crisp because it is not barrel fermented, but temperature controlled in stainless steel tanks to control the fermentation process and post-fermentation storage.

Raye's Hill
Well-known for their pinot noir, which is big and balanced, they also score on other varietals. Their pinot blanc is crisp with pear and quince. Notably, their meritage is a great American wine, fruit forward an complex, lacy with soft tannins and no sourness or spite. The meritage walked home with a silver medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Available at Cabrini Wines in Manhattan.

...

Thank you Eric and Allyson.

New York BYO

2008-11-19T18:45:00.028-05:00

BYO BORDEAUX

It's always a good time for BYO. Tribeca Grill and Apiary on Mondays. The Orchard on Sundays. Ivo & Lulu and Tartine every day. Cafe Loup is twelve dollah corkage every night. The Harrison sells wine at cost on Monday nights. Five Points, Cookshop and other good low corkage options. Lions and tigers and bears on Wednesdays.

Here are a few listings:

Local Events

NY Magazine

New York Sun article

Little Views listing

NYC & Co.

Thrillist

...

LA people, don't despair

Bierzo

2008-10-06T03:00:00.009-04:00

BIERZO

Rural and remote, lush and beautiful and pretty well unknown, Bierzo is the kind of region wine lovers dream of discovering. Northwest Spain near Portugal, this verdant DO in northwestern Spain, sometimes called 'the gateway to Galicia,' was virtually unheard of a decade ago. Yet today this former Roman mining area has a promising future as one of Spain's new wine hotspots. It's a region where mineral-rich slate soils, a continental climate, and intrepid winemakers have come together to create some truly memorable red wines.

Take for example the winechild of two Spaniards, the scion of a Priorat family and a cousin who just happend to be holding a cool few hectares in Bierzo. The scion jumped at the opportunity when his cousin Ricardo was starting a new winery in Bierzo. Their result: Palacios Petalos del Bierzo ("Petalos" for short) is a well-crafted a wine dark purple but not overpowering, with a nose of dark fruit. Soft tannin, a lingering finish, goes with anything. 91 points WA and WE.

The Mencía grape is the star in Bierzo, where it occupies nearly two-thirds of the vineyards. A variety cultivated almost solely in northwestern Spain (especially in the Galician DOs- appellations- Valdeorras, Monterrei, and Ribeira Sacra), Mencía has only recently come into its own as a respected grape variety. In good hands, it reveals fresh fruity notes, smooth tannins and an enviable reflection of the minerally terroir. Although known as a wine that shows very well in young, fruity wines, some Bierzo producers are proving that with the right balance of oak it can also age well. Other grape varieties planted in Bierzo include Garnacha Tintorera, Godello, Doña Blanca, Malvasía, Palomino and, in experimental quantities, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo.

The vineyards themselves are among the most beautiful in Spain. Many are planted in picturesque terraces along the steep slopes of the Sil river valley, some with such marked inclination that mules are used for the harvest. The soils range from alluvial near the riverbed, to rocky and slate-filled on the higher slopes. The vineyards, which are planted at elevations of up to 1000 meters, enjoy moderate rainfall and, thanks to the mountains that protect them from the whims of the Atlantic, a relatively mild climate.

The heart and soul of Bierzo is Cacabelos, a buzzing market town and important stop along Spain's legendary pilgrim's route, the Camino de Santiago (St. James Way, the Pilgrimage that takes place every year and culminates in Santiago de Compostela). Although the wine business is centered here, this pretty riverside town is hardly Bierzo's only attraction. Large towns like Ponferrada and Vilafranca del Bierzo tempt with Templar castles, medieval monasteries and once-extravagant palaces; while the smaller wine hamlets of San Roman Bembibre, Arganza and Corullon seem hardly touched by time.

Wines to Try
Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo "Petalos" WA: 92 pts (Sherry, Chelsea, WineLegend)
Dominio Tares
Prada a Tope
Bodegas Estefania, Castro Ventoso, Bodega del Abad,
Paixar (a winery run by the sons of legendary winekaer Mariano García)
Castro Ventosa, El Castro de Valtuille
Pago de Valdoneje (a Sherry-Lahman best buy)

wineline

2008-08-03T10:51:00.001-04:00

Ribera del Duero

2007-09-28T13:54:00.013-04:00

Recently, Otto took a trip to Barcelona, and his favorite wine there was Ribera del Duero. The Wall Street Journal likes them too: "These are substantial wines and require substantial meals, from veal and peppers to steak. They will generally age beautifully for at least a few years." Skip the peppers, buy the wine.

Spain's fastest developing region, Ribera del Duero, lies halfway between Madrid and the coast as the crow flies, along a 69 mile stretch of the Duero river.

In 2008, Ribera del Duero will join the ranks of Rioja and Priorat by receiving an upgraded status to Denominacien de Origen Calificada (DOCa).

What is Roberto Parker's #1 wine under $100? Valdegatiles, a Ribera from Dominio Atauta.

Gusto por favor:

Aalto
Abadia Retuerta Rivola
Alion
Arrocal (bargain Parker fave; our for wine of the year 2007) (Garnet)
Balbas
Dominio de Tares
Emilio Moro
Legaris (Crianza)
Pago de los Capellanes (Crianza)
Pesquera (WS 90 points... and try the Reserva)
Cillar & Silos Torre Silo
Torres de Anguix "Barrica" (a bargain)
Vega Sicilia (Ribera’s flag-bearer, not a bargain)
Dominio de Atauta "Valdegatiles" ("Velvety, lush, seamless." Tanzer. Try Astor)
Vina Pedrosa (WA 90 points, another Ribera bargain)

Also:
Sardon del Duero, like the bargain Abadia Retuerta. (Sardon del Duero is located in just outside the Ribera del Duero boundary line).
Where? Try Garnet Wines

Want White?
The Rueda, just west of Ribera del Duero, produces predominantly Verdejo whites, often with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in for good measure.

Eric Asimov article.

Read the New York Times article.

New York Wine Bars

2007-08-27T13:45:00.026-04:00

New York Winebars

Wine bars and restaurants with good wine lists in NYC:

There's never been a better time for the wine bar in NYC. There are loads of them. Check out NY Wine Bar Guide for a complete list. And here are NY Mag faves.

And here are some of our favorites:

508 Restaurant & Bar. Not a wine bar, but a good, broad list. 508 Greenwich St; 212-219-2444

Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis New York. 2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave.; 212-710-2277

Bacaro. 136 Division St., between Orchard/Ludlow. 212-941-5060

Bar Boulud. 1900 Broadway, nr. 64th St.; 212-595-0303.

Bar Carrera, 175 Second Avenue between 11th and 12th Streets; 212-375-1555.

Bar Jamon, 125 E 17th St; 212-253-2773

Bin No. 220, 220 Front Street near South Street Seaport; 212-374-9463.

Bridge Vineyards Urban Winery, 20 Broadway, nr. Kent Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-384-2800.

City Winery 155 Varick St, at Vandam; 212-608-0555.

Eighth Street Wine Cellar, 28 W. 8th Street, between 5th and 6th. 212-260-9163

(The Bar at) Etats-Unis, 247 E. 81st St., nr. Second Ave., 212-396-9928

Gottino, 52 Greenwich Ave nr Perry, 212-633-2590

Lelabar 422 Hudson St between Leroy and Morton, 212-206-0594
Good, if predictable, list. Good people, paninis, salad with figs, seat at the bar.

The Monday Room, 210 Elizabeth St (between Prince and Spring Sts), Public's teeny wine-bar sidekick.

Nizza. 630 Ninth Ave., nr. 45th St.; 212-956-1800.

Pasita. 47 8th Ave, bet Horatio & Jane St. W. Village posh pizza with great wine list. 212-255-3900
Great thin crust, plus lots of good Italian and Argentian wines. Si.

Peasant Wine Bar, 194 Elizabeth Street (down the stairs) between Prince and Spring Streets; 212-965-9511. Opens at 7 p.m.

Rouge Wine Bar, 99 Bank St (under Paris Commune): 212-929-0509.
West Village wannabe. A bit disappointing.

Rusty Knot. Cheap beer, good drinks, good wine. Freeman's pedigree. View of Hudson River. 425 West Street; 212-645-5668.

Smiths, 79 Macdougal St., nr. Houston St (Trattoria Dante redux; Mermaid Inn Red Cat, and Harrison provenance) 212-246-3268
Good food, good wine. Cafe Dante next door for a canoli.

Solex. 103 First Ave., nr. 7th St. 212-777-6677

Stonehome Wine Bar 87 Lafayette Ave (Portland), Fort Greene. 718-624-9443
Packed Fort Greene, hip and winester spot.

Terroir, 413 E. 12th St., nr. First Ave. 646-602-1300
www.wineisterroir.com

Veritas; 43 E 20th St, 212-353-3700

Vintage New York, 482 Broome Street at Wooster Street. NY State wines only. 212-226-9463.

Vin Noir, 228 Mott Street between Prince and Spring Streets; 212-925-6647.

. . .

More on NY Mag and Metromix.

CitySearch faves here.

Looking for BYO?

Looking for an open bar?

Bordeaux

2007-07-21T10:31:00.019-04:00

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is anything but easy. The 2005 are hyped. The good ones are sublime. You gotta lay out some serious scratch for the good guys. The plonk is, well, plonk.

Interesting article in Forbes: Drinkable or Cellarable Bordeaux.

Big (and Medium) Guns

Angélus
St-Emilion
Full bodied St. Emillion (usually around 62% merlot).

Berliquet
St. Emilion
Rich, dark and decadent. Sweet, ripe plums and cream nose with a generous waft of vanilla/new oak. Fat and generous with silky, soft tannins. Jancis loves this one.

Carruades de Lafite
Pauillac
Second of Lafite Rotschild. Juicier, fresher, more merlot.

La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion
Pessac-Leognan
Second of Haut-Brion.

Chasse-Spleen
Moulis
Chateau Chasse-Spleen is the leading estate of Moulis, a small and easily overlooked commune on the left bank of the Gironde, sandwiched in the No Man's Land between St Julien to the north and Margaux to the south. Lots of blackberry and dark chocolate on the nose. James Suckling says "soft tannins and an aftertaste of chocolate and delicate fruit." WS says 90 pts. Splenetic it is not.

Cheval Blanc
St-Emilion
Incredible richness of Cabernet Franc here, with blackberries and dark chocolate character. Not cheap. A 1995 sells for over $4K.

La Clemence
Pomerol
Don't let the label fool you. 92 points RP, who tastes... "kirsch along with a hint of caramelized fruit, medium to full body, abundant amounts of sweet tannin, and a muscular, concentrated, powerful finish." Eighty bucks.

Clos du Marquis
St-Julien
One of the best second labels for the buck. WS says "Starts slowly, then climbs up and up." We say: we wish we had more than one bottle.

Cos d'Estournel
St. Estèphe

La Croix de Beaucaillou
St. Julien
Second of Ducru Beaucaillou

Ducru-Beaucaillou
St. Julien

Les Fiefs de Lagrange
St. Julien
Opulent and fine second of Lagrange

Gaffeliere
St. Emilion
"Superb depth, brilliant precision...a phenomenal effort," says Parker.

Chateau Gloria
St. Julien

Gomerie
St. Emilion

Gruaud-Larose
St. Julien
Plummy aromas, with leaf and tobacco undertones. Medium-bodied.

Haut Bages Liberal
Pauillac
Dark, almost inky, intense aromas of cassis, mineral and light vanilla. Full-bodied with very well-integrated tannins and a long finish. WS 91 (2003)

Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
Look for the pink foil. The 2005 gets rave reviews.

Lafite Rothschild
Pauillac
Big guy. Cool photos.

Lagrange
St. Julien
Parker loves the 2006.

Larcis-Ducasse
St. Emilion

Lascombes
Margaux
"One of the appellation’s up and coming stars..." (RP)

Latour
Pauillac
“Captivating, harmonious, electrifying…”

Léoville-Barton
"Powerful, superb concentration, loaded..." (cellar it for a while)
St. Julien

Léoville-Poyferré
St. Julien

Louviere
Pessac-Léognan

Lynch Bages
Pauillac
Rich, dense and ripe with black fruit flavors.

Margaux
Margaux
Lots of cab. Parker opines: “An elegant, seamlessly constructed effort…”

Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
Sibling/rival of Haut-Brion. Parker likes it better, and says of the 2006, “It is already thrilling to drink, although it is still very youthful Drink it over the next 25-30 years." 94 points WS.

Montrose
St Estèphe
Top of the second growth pops.

Mouton-Rothschild
Pauillac

Ormes de Pez
St.Estèphe
"Restrained... saturated... a sweet nose... fine flesh and good follow through." WA
(65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc)

Pagodes de Cos
St Estèphe
Second of Cos d’Estournel.

Palmer
Margaux

Pavie Macquin
St Emilion

Peyre-Lebade
Haut-Medoc
A Rothschild property

Pichon-Lalande
Pauillac

Sarget de Gruaud Larose
St. Julien
A Berry Bros. favorite

Smith Haut Lafitte
Pessac-Léognan
One of the classics. Medium bodied, sophisticated. Usually around 35% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.

St. Pierre
St. Julien

• • •

(Relative) Bargains

Carignan, Côtes de Bordeaux. This is the appellation that used to be called Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, and this property has been one of its top performers in recent years. Rich and sweet with fine sandy tannins and freshness. Another Jancis fave.

Courteillac, Bordeaux Superieur. Bordeaux blend, a Forbes favorite, as seen at a 2008 Mass Transmit party. Dark and supple, fruit forward but not a glass of jam, tastes of blackberry, coffee and chocolate. 87 points WS. "Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a light toasty oak and citrus fruit aftertaste. Balanced and pretty. Best after 2013." Too bad it's a bit hard to find. Try Wine Exchange.

Jonqueyres, Bordeaux Superieur. Robert Parker says Chateau Jonqueyres makes “high quality wines that can compete with more famous estates.”

Lalande-Borie, St-Julien

Landes de Cach, Pauillac

Les Grands Marechaux (Cotes de Blaye) 91 pts WS

Les Ormes de Pez, St-Estephe, is full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long finish. 89 pts WS.

Picau Perna, St. Émilion. Astor Wines says, "This merlot-based Red offers all the elegance and plummy fruit that you want in a Bordeaux. You'll also find a touch of a touch of fresh herbs, soft tannins and an elegant finish." Try Astor or PJ Wines.

Poitevin, Medoc is immediate and charming. This dark, ruby-colored claret is crammed with delicious, ripe berry fruit aromas that leap from the glass.

Malescot-St-Exupéry, Margaux

Mondorion, St-Emilion (From the new property of Patrick Leon, of Mouton family)

Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe (Second of Cos d’Estournel. "long, delicious finish. Very racy and linear." 91 Points WS.)

Pontet-Canet (Pauillac)

Puygueraud, Cotes De Franc (a tiny appellation tucked away next to St-Emillion) (WineLegend.com)

Reignac de Tizac (Parker fave)

Sarget de Gruaud Larose (available at K & L Wines and WineChateau.com)

St. Valery, St-Emilion

Tertre de Courban (Bordeaux Superieur) Vaynerchuk calls this one a "very easy-drinking red."

Vallee De Valeur, Cotes de Blaye, another WineLegend favorite, is silky and rich, but tannins not soft enough, wine not complex enough.

• • •

Is the 2005 Bordeaux vintage any good?

Robert Parker says: "I have never tasted so many extraordinarily rich, concentrated, massive wines so high in tannin and extract, yet with such precision, definition, and freshness. It is clearly a singular vintage that should evolve into one of the great vintages..."

"What an incredible vintage," says Jancis Robinson.

• • •

Jancis Robinson's Bordeaux 2008 Roundup

Bordeaux Wine Classification

IntoWine vintage chart

California Cabs

2007-03-17T09:46:00.014-04:00

California Cabs

California boasts some of the best red wines in the world. Jammy, syrupy, luscious, bring your own thesaurus.

Here are some of our favorites:

... Around $20 ...
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Benziger Family Winery
Double T
Hayman & Hill
Mount Eden "Cuvee Saratoga"
Newton Claret
Oberon
Robert Goyette
Sequoia Grove
St. Clement Oroppas
Sterling
Twenty Rows
Wyatt

... $30 - 50 a bottle ...
Hanna
Heitz Cellars
Larkmead
Merryvale Reserve
Meyer Vineyard
Mount Eden
Napanook
Oakville Ranch (WE 83 points)
Orin Swift "The Prisoner" (cab, zin blend)
Ramey Claret
St. Clement
Storybook Antaeus (Bordeaux style blend)
Trefethen

... $50 and up ...
Barnett Vineyards
Cliff Lede
Corison Kronos Vineyard
Dalla Valle
Duckhorn
Fantesca
John Anthony
Karl Lawrence
Mercury Head (Orin Swift)
Philip Togni
Rudd
Silver Oak
Silverado
Stag's Leap
Trefethen Library
Verite La Muse
Whitehall Lane Reserve
> See Wine News' Best Under $100

... $100 plus...
Bryant Family
Caymus Special Selection
Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages
Dalla Valle Maya
Diamond Creek
Dominus
Harlan
Martin Ray Diamond Mountain
Quilceda Creek (Columbia Valley, WA)
Screaming Eagle
Staglin
Switchback Ridge
Von Strasser

... Yeah, we know it's not California, but ...
Woodward Canyon and second label Nelms Road, Walla Walla, Washington
Amavi and Robert Parker favorite Quilceda Creek also Washington winners

... And a warning...
If you've got $10 to spend and are in a hurry, you might want to look elsewhere, like Spain or Argentina.

... Going to Napa...
Wine Spectator on Affordable Napa

Priorat

2007-02-06T16:48:00.001-05:00

Priorat

A fabled wine with a long and interesting history, Priorat (or Priorato) hails from sacred soil, has a rich history and a fairly flexible recipe that results in a wide variety of wines. They're all rich, dark, inky, big, flavorful. They all contain Granache. And the rest is art and science.

The Catalans call it Priorat, most others say Priorato, and the region has become something of a cult wine producer, thanks to the special soil, called llicorella, made of a brown slate mixed together with rocks. Mountains surround the area and the vines are tended by hand.

Priorats are based on Garnacha (Grenache), and produce inky wines with intense fruit flavors of blackberry and plums, not to mention a required minimum of 13.5% alcohol. The wines are big in all factors. The secondary grape of the region is Carinena (Carignan in France). This grape has lost favor in most parts of the world but here in Priorat, it’s a welcome addition to the Garnacha based wines. They can also contain Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mazuelo and Syrah.

Some of our favorites:
Alvaro Palacios, Les Terrasses
Clos Erasmus is one of the very best
Laurel (no Hardy) is almost half Cabernet Sauvignon. WA 91 points. Second label of Clos Erasmus, a mid-range winner
Mas d'En Gil
Mas Doix is Robert Parker's high-end fave
Mas Perinet is M. Le Du's mid-range choice
Pasanau: Ceps Nous around $20 a bottle, La Planeta around $50 (WS 93 points)
Rotllan Torra is organic and good, from $16 to $80
Vall Llachs: a range from $30 "Embriux" which means “bewitching” to the eponymous high-end dazzler.

Montsant:
A relatively new Spanish wine DO (denomination ), Monstant forms a horseshoe around Priorat, but the wines here have a clear identity of their own. We're still doing our research, but so far we're underwhelmed. The Wineline panel concludes, for now, that they lack the sophistication and depth of Priorats, have a simpler, smugger, more fruit-forward style. So far we say: buy the low end Priorats instead, even though Montsant is cool, some big-name critics dig them and many of the labels are nifty.

2007-01-12T11:22:00.012-05:00

Spanish Reds

Vamanos. Spanish reds are great, varied, good value.

RIOJA

We love rioja. At the low-end they're dependable, at the higher ends, they're interesting, complex, some of the best wines out there. How about a bike tour through Rioja!

Low:
Don Roman. Rich, intense fruit, syrupy. Available at Morrell.

Medium:
Allende, a cultish winner from a talented, original winemaker. Available at PJ Wine. WA 93 points.
Artadi Artazu ''Santa Cruz de Artazu" also good.
Artadi Rioja Vinas De Gain: A Tanzer favorite and a winner for under $25. Tanzer: 91 points.
Remelluri: The winery and town have a rich winemaking history that predates the romans. PJ Wine calls it "suave... sophisticated, elegant." And say: "Readers looking for a Rioja that could pass for a high-class Pomerol should check out the 2001 Remelluri."

High:
Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja. "Wild, pungent aromas of red and dark berries, candied cherry..." Tanzer: 94 points

RIBERA DEL DUERO

A relative newcomer, the D.O. only became official in 1982. High altitute, good terroir and a special microclimate go into the Tempranillo-based wines (like Rioja) from this area. While they're predominantly Tempranillo, they can throw in a bit of Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Garnacha Tinta to add balance and depth.

We like: Abadia Retuerta Rivola, Dominio de Tares (Robert Parker gives both 90 points), Emilio Moro, and Bodegas Alion.

See Ribera post.

TORO

Numanthia Toro. Tempranillo . "Massively rich, intense, vivid." WA: 98 points

BIERZO

Bierzo Petalos. 100% Mencia (a black grape of coastal Atlantic origin). Great label. WE: 91 points.

Bierzo Pago de Valdoneje. Accessability, balance, bargain.

See Bierzo post.

COSTA BRAVA

Believe it or not, they make big, generous, lush wines on the Costa Brava. One of them is Sinols Coromina, made from 40 to 60 year old cariñena vines, available at Astor.

PRIORAT

Priorats can be great. From sacred soil, mostly grenache, always inky, ripe, rich. Rotllan Torra is one of our favorites with a winner at around $16 and a knock-your-socks-off Tirant for $80 or so. Mas Doix and Clos Erasus are renowned favorites that open the imagination and empty the wallet.

See Priorat post

MONTSANT

Think second label Priorat. (The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat.) That means: good value. The blend is mostly Grenache with Syrah. Dense and layered, wild berry character tinged with smoky notes, soft tannins.

We like: Cellers Unio Perlat, Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis (both around $10)

See Priorat post

OTHERS

Castel Del Remei Segre Gotim Bru is a $10 favorite. Tanzer: 90 points.

Venta Mazzaron is deep ruby colored, medium bodied and elegant. Ruby, stone, just a hint of fruit. (Made from Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape -- the same grape as Rioja). From the Toro region, northwest of Rueda, near Valladolid. Parker gives this $10 wine 90 points and raves, "Medium-bodied and elegant, with wonderful sweetness, plush tannin, and a long, pure finish." Claro.

Spanish Reds

2006-12-08T21:21:00.007-05:00

Spanish Reds

Vamanos. Spanish reds are great, varied, good value.

RIOJA

We love rioja. At the low-end they're dependable, at the higher ends, they're interesting, complex, some of the best wines out there.

Low:
Don Roman. Rich, intense fruit, syrupy. Available at Morrell.

Medium:
Allende, a cultish winner from a talented, original winemaker. Available at PJ Wine. WA 93 points.
Artadi Artazu ''Santa Cruz de Artazu" also good.
Artadi Rioja Vinas De Gain: A Tanzer favorite and a winner for under $25. Tanzer: 91 points.
Remelluri: The winery and town have a rich winemaking history that predates the romans. WA 93. Suave, velvety, sophisticated, elegant. Available at Garnet.

High:
Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja. "Wild, pungent aromas of red and dark berries, candied cherry..." Tanzer: 94 points

RIBERA DEL DUERO

Hola Ribera. On the Duero River, they craft fine wines.

See Ribera post.

BIERZO

José Palacios Bierzo Petalos. 100% Mencia (a black grape of coastal Atlantic origin). Great label. WE: 91 points.

Bierzo Pago de Valdoneje. Accessability, balance, bargain.

COSTA BRAVA

Believe it or not, they make big, generous, lush wines on the Costa Brava. One of them is Sinols Coromina, made from 40 to 60 year old cariñena vines, available at Astor.

PRIORAT

Priorats can be great. From sacred soil, mostly grenache, always inky, ripe, rich. Rotllan Torra is one of our favorites with a winner at around $16 and a knock-your-socks-off Tirant for $80 or so. Mas Doix and Clos Erasus are renowned favorites that open the imagination and empty the wallet.

MONTSANT

Think second label Priorat. (The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat.) That means: good value. The blend is mostly Grenache with Syrah. Dense and layered, wild berry character tinged with smoky notes, soft tannins.

We like: Cellers Unio Perlat, Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis (both around $10)

OTHERS

Castel Del Remei Segre Gotim Bru is a $10 favorite. Tanzer: 90 points.

Venta Mazzaron is deep ruby colored, medium bodied and elegant. Ruby, stone, just a hint of fruit. (Made from Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape -- the same grape as Rioja). From the Toro region, northwest of Rueda, near Valladolid. Parker gives this $10 wine 90 points and raves, "Medium-bodied and elegant, with wonderful sweetness, plush tannin, and a long, pure finish." Claro.

White Rioja

2006-10-07T14:49:00.001-04:00

In Praise of White Rioja

White riojas are like good country songs. The elements shouldn’t add up—too sappy, too twangy, a wine that is fruity, Christ they even have discernable oak—and yet you like them. A good (and even moderately priced) white rioja opens with bouquets of fruit with a hint of something denser (sherry, honey) in the back of the nose. And they have the fruit and the flower and that bit of gravelly, honey-ish depth. One suggestion: take them out of the fridge after you open them. Unlike, say, sauvignon blancs, they don’t like to be too cold. And that’s one reason they’re winter whites.

Damn, the Spanish know what they're doing. White Riojas are mostly Viura and they sometimes add Malvasia (and possibly some other grapes). As with Priorat, the regions winemakers tinkered and improved. Top wineries such as Allende, Palacios Remondo, Conde de Valdemar and Muga have pioneered a style that combines some of the freshness of youth with late picking and barrel fermentation to produce wines with more weight and concentration. Some of them also blend Malvasia with Viura to add perfume and interest.

Allende - two Blancos, both good. Of Finca Allende, Berry Bros say: "Beautifully perfumed with a ripe citrus palate that has been rounded out by lees stirring." (Available at ShoppersWines.com).

Basa Bianco - "It reveals abundant fruit, beautiful crispness and a zesty personality. Terrific value. Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura." WA

Gravonia Crianza - 100% Viura. Pale gold color. Wine & Spirits magazine: 90 points to the 1995. "The deep gold color and spicy, oat biscuit scent shows the heavy influence of oak on this wine. The flavors follow suit, scented with vanilla and jasmine, honey and beeswax. This is maturing with grace, an older Rioja to serve with suckling pig". Tanzer 89 points. WS 89 points: "This lovely version of a traditional white is ethereal yet intense, with delicate almond, beeswax, floral and dried pear notes. It's mature, but definitely not tired. Drink now through 2008."

Muga - the low end winner. Elegant, lively, complex... a bit of oak, a bit of tobacco, a bit of citus, with clean fruit on top.

Oro De Castilla Verdejo - "Elegant, with notes of white peaches, honey, and citrus offered in a flavorful yet zesty style," says Wine Legend. WA 89 pts.

Ostatu - low yield (and low cost) good wine. Fermented in stainless steel.

Remelluri - was contributing wine to the town council of nearby Labastida in the 15 th century – one of the earliest references to a bodega in Spain. Today, the 100ha estate situated in the Western corner of the Rioja Alavesa between the Tolono mountain range and the River Ebro, is one of Rioja's most prestigious and most sought after. Rebmulluri Blanco blends Malvasia and Viura along with the more exotic Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, this weighty yet elegant white.

Tondonia - one of the world's greatest wines. Tanzer gives the "Gran Reserva" 90 points. "At once penetrating and suave, with lovely subtlety and cut. Strong minerally note of lead pencil. Quite fine and adamantly dry; still evolving. Very long, ethereal back end.”

Remondo ''Placet''--"When Spanish-wine star (and prodigal son) Alvaro Palacios returned to his family's Rioja bodega in 2000, he began turniong out impressive bottlings like Palacios Remondo Plcet, a peachy white made from Spain's Viura Grape." Food & Wine Magazine

. . .

(See "The Observer Article").

American Merlots

2006-09-15T20:46:00.006-04:00

American Merlots

No, Miles didn't kill Merlot

Overlooked? Undiscovered? Yes. And if one movie has quelled demand, then consider yourself lucky... and go out and get some..

Atalon - Napa - Parker gives 89 points to this "sweet perfume."

Avignonesi - Merlot Desiderio - NapaCabs.com says, "Ripe black berry fruit, sandalwood, cinnamon, and vanilla." WA 94 Pts.

Barnett Vineyards - Napa - Rich, intense, blended with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Blair Estate - A small, family owned winery making consistently good Merlots (and other wines). This one happens to be a bargain.

Burgess - Napa - Rich and deep. A relative bargain.

Byrd Cooper - Napa - From the Neyers folks.

Cakebread Cellars - One of the stalwarts. Complex, well made, the height of great American Merlot.

Darioush - Beautifully complex and syrupy. The Wall Street Journal's "Tastings" column raved: "This was the single most memorable wine from our trip to Napa and Sonoma tasting rooms last summer and the best Merlot we tasted all year."

Duckhorn - Another big gun. Here's what the winemaker says: "The flavors are dominated by ripe berry, plum, and raspberry complemented by toasty oak, caramel, and vanilla." Wine Spectator says 90 points of the 2002.

Hedges "Three Vineyards" - Another Washington winner. 90 points Wine Enthusiast.

Leal Vineyards - Food & Wine named them one of the 20 best new wineries in 2004 extolling their Syrah. We like this San Benito county winery's Merlot, crafted by a former fencing contractor and an ex-mechanic.

Liparita - An almost perfect Napa Merlot. Rich but not too big, syrupy, smooth, complex but friendly. This wine will hug you, seduce you and give you a kiss goodnight. Goodnight Liparita. Wine Spectator, Editor's Pick 2001 Merlot.

Matanzas Creek - Good not great. The winemaker waxes about "melted toffee notes that complement the rich bouquet of black fruits."

Nelms Road/Woodward Canyon - Both the first and second label of this Walla Walla (Washington) winery are juicy, fruit forward winners. Nelms Road was a recent Food & Wine winner "Best Wine under $20."

Neyers - Pedigreed Californian. Also known for their Syrah. Plus Byrd-Cooper, French style Merlot.

Pacific Oasis. Santa Barbara County ten dollah winner. Smooth but not fuzzy. Inexpensive but not sharp. Available at NapaCab.s

Rancho Sisquoc - From Santa Barbara. Edward Robinson's favorite.

Paumanok - Long Island, yes Long Island.

Pride Mountain Vineyards - "An openly seductive style, with ripe currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit shaded by splashy mocha, espresso bean and oak flavors. It’s complex and concentrated, but also quite tannic, so if you pull the cork tonight, decant an hour," says James Laube, Wine Spectator. WS 93 points. RP 92 points. ($60 plus).

Rombauer - Balanced, dense, mocha and ripe plum. A winner at around $27. (Thanks to Watershed, new favorite Atlanta restaurant).

Selene - Napa. Thanks for writing in, HS.

Shafer - Good, expensive.

Sherwood House Vineyards - Another Long Island winery. WS 88 points. Under $20.

Trefethen - A classic American merlot: big, ripe, deep, rich, round. (San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition winner).

Twomey - Another robust Napa Valley contender, from the Silver Oak gang. WA 91-93 points.

Verite - Top of the line. If you're feeling flush. Bordeaux style micro-crus. All score well above 90 points with Parker, Tanzer and their ilk.

Warnke Cellars - Napa bargain. Fruit-forward style, full mouthfeel, supple with a welcoming nose. New world style.

Whitehall Lane - Good, bang for buck.

Forbes article here.

Ten Dollar Wines

2006-09-14T11:30:00.018-04:00

Ten Dollar Wines

Ten dollah. Can't be done.
Sure it can.
Like wot?
Like these...
I can't pay ten dollah. I'll pay ten dollah.

(Apologies if they're a bit over $10. Hard to keep track exactly).

Arbor Crest Sauvignon Blanc - Columbia Valley, WA. WS 87 points.

Anakena - Rapel Valley, Chile. They make everything.

Beynat, Cuvee Leonard - from Cotes de Castillon, which is next to Bordeaux. This is one of Sherry-Lehman's unsung heroes of Bordeaux, and it's worth a song or two. (See "Lesser Known French Regions" post).

Blair Estate - Napa. Merlot. Good.

Borsao - Spain. Mostly granache. Cherry red, deep and sweet. We like Tres Picos Borsao. Robert Parker gave the 2004 a rave and 91 points. This if full-throttle, big bodied stuff, not for the faint of pallette. Try Wine Legend.

Canyon Road - California. Born as Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton restaurants' private label, then the winery decided to take it public. The sauvignon blanc is especially good for the price.

Cetena - Argentina. Fresh, minimally oaked, citrusy chardonnay that's hard to beat for the price. See "Don't Cry for Argentina" post).

Conde de Valdemar - Crianza, Spain. A smooth Rioja that balances balance ripe Tempranillo fruit with just enough oak.

Courteillac - Bordeaux, France. "Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a light toasty oak and citrus fruit aftertaste." WS 90 points. The lowest price Bordeaux to hit everyone's 90+ list. (Available at Garnet"). (More like $20 now, but still a great buy).

Domaine de la Solitude - Rhone red and white. The white is mostly viognier, delicious, crisp with surprising finesse. The red, says Astor Wines, is "full of sweet black fruit, silky smooth with a touch of smoky oak."

Echeverria - Chile. Both the blackberry Cab and the flinty unoaked Chardonnay are well made, balanced bargains. The Carmenere took two trophies in the 2005 Annual Wines of Chile Awards.

Epicurious - Here are their picks.

Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet - Languedoc - Citrusy white from the Mediterranean coast. K & D Wines.

Fontanafredda Barbera "Briccotondo" - Piemonte, Italia. 90 points Wine Spectator and one of their Top 100 Wines of 2007: "Very plummy and grapey on the nose, with hints of chocolate..." At K & L Wines or NapaCabs.

Gouguenheim - Argentina. Valle Escondido, made near Mendoza. Not as good as Cetena, but another Argentine winner.

Grenache (aka Garnacha) - All over. Grenache is a bargain. It blends well and sings "drink me in dulcet tones. Fruity, cherry-ish and soft, it's often blended to add a bot of oomph. It's got party wine written all over it. Try Les Quatre Tours "Classique" Red from Provence or Las Rocas from Calatayud (Spain), both available at Astor.

Grüner Veltliner - Austria. Put some umlaut in your cellar. Minty, mineraly. Think summer afternoons.

Guigal - Rhone. Côtes-du-Rhône is great, dependable. His expensive wines are pretty great too.

Ludovicus - Terra Alta, Spain. Vinos Piñol is organically farmed, bottled unfiltered. A blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Opulent flavors of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and pepper. WA 90 points.

Mano a Mano - La Mancha (no kidding), Spain. Suspect label. Good wine. 100% Tempranillo. NoMerlot.com has this to say: "Medium to full-bodied, rich, well-rounded and full of dark fruit flavors, backed by firm tannins. The wine is made in a modern style with lots of fruit flavors up front, yet maintains a distinctively Spanish style."

Manta Sauvignon Blanc - Central Valley, Chile. A zesty, citrussy, possibly too bright white for hot summers day. Serve chilled. Kick soccer ball. Nap.

Pacific Oasis. Don't let the name (or the label) deceive you. This is a thoughtful, well-made Merlot.

Pichon - Herault, France. A bargain viognier. Astor Wines says, "rich and round white wine with its aromas of peaches and pears." Not exactly a single vineyard, and not as good as Domaine de la Solitude, but a worthy wine for the price.

Pillar Box Red - Barossa, Australia. A rich blend of shiraz, cab and merlot. Parker gave the 2004 a glowing 90 points. Available at Wine Legend and K & L Wines.

Raymond R Collection - Napa. Big, fruit-forward, well-structured Merlot.

Rioja - R for reliable. Better in the $12 to $15 range.
Reds:
Don Roman is the Otto Zappatore favorite (available at Morrell. yes, more than $10).
See "Spanish Reds"
Whites:
Try Muga, Basa Bianco, Cune Monopole. Greene Grape recommends Senorial. (We haven't tried it yet).
See "White Riojas"

Santa Rita Chardonnay - Another Chilean darling. It's so not buttery, it's almost green. "On the palate, it is fresh and sweet; medium bodied, juicy and refreshing," says 67 Wine in NYC.

Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa) - Yes, the less expensive ones are still great. Like Steenberg and Sincerely are both good values. (See "South African Sauvignon Blanc" post).

Sauvignon Blancs (Other) - Nimbus (Chile) WS 86, fresh and clean, grapefruit and Granny Smith. Zolo (Argentina). Manta (Chile).
Canyon Road (USA).

Chateau Thebot - Bordeaux. The 2001 is another Sherry-Lehman unsung hero. They say, "A great value in good, solid, everyday Bordeaux. This unfiltered blend dominated by Merlot is a fine Bordeaux that exhibits intelligent winemaking and loads of fruit in an accessible style."

Tres Picos - Spain. Deep and sweet, this Borsao is made from old vine Grenache vineyards that cling to rugged terrain on the slopes of the famous Moncayo mountain. Available at PJ Wine.

Tuttobene, Angelini - San Leonino, Tuscany, Italy. A "Forbes Favorite" that Wine Spectator calls "an outstanding new wine." A low cost winner from Tuscany, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci. Think juicy, blackberry, chocolate and soft tannins. Bad name; cool label.

Vega Sindoa - Navarra, Spain. Another Spanish winner from Bodegas Nekeas. Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo blend. Tanzer opines: "Deep red. Fresh, mineral-tinged cherry and blackcurrant aromas complicated by flowers and spices."
Try NJ WineStore.

Venta Mazzaron - Toro, Spain. Tempranillo, Spain’s quintessential, indigenous grape. Parker is bullish on this one.

Verdejo - Never mind vendetta, V is for Verdejo. Light, crisp, citusy, a dash of sauvignon blanc.

Vermentino - Italy. Light, fresh, lemony whites from Italy. Argiolas, La Cala and other Sardinian producers are a good bet.

Viogner - Mostly France, now all over the place. Anything with "viognier" on the label. Okay, not anything, but a lot.

Yalumba - Australian for wine. Chardonnay and Grenache both worthy. (See "Good Down Under" post).

Zolo - Argy bargain.

A few rules to bear in mind:

Don't trust the nice man in the store.

Don't buy the bottle with the nice label.

Vintage means just about bugger all when it comes to $10 bottles of wine.

Being from Bordeaux or Napa or Italy makes it less, not more, likely that the $10 wine will be a winner. You'll do better with a Rhone, Cahors, Rioja.

Discounts push the price down... buy a case, or shop when your local store has a sale.

Chardonnay

2006-07-28T19:29:00.006-04:00

Chardonn-Oy

Or is it Chardon-NAY. Some say Chardonnaise. Rhymes with malaise.

"ABC" (Anything but Charonnay) is oft heard in restaurants and bars. And verily the worst ones, that motley crew of butter-top, oak-down-to-the-balls offenders are truly plonk.

That said, there are two worthy types of Chardonnay. Low and high.

Low (to Medium) Chardonnay...
... is not expensive (duh); none of them has anything to do with butter; in fact, some are brutally unoaked, surprisingly pale in color and bright, sharp, clean.
Calera, Central Coast -- just a bit of butter, bit of oak. Gary Vaynerchuk likes it.
Cetena, Argentina -- Clean, flinty, tasty. As Borat says, "Aaah like."
Echeverria, Chile (best buy)
Firestone, Napa
Gouguenheim Valle Escondido, Argentina -- Like the museum, only different.
Grand Res Bien Nacido, Napa
Healdsburg Ranches, Sonoma -- unoaked, good acidity, apples and kumquat. Good value at around $10.
Kali Hart, Napa
Yalumba, Australia
Wente, Napa

High Chardonnay...
... is expensive and nothing like the cheap stuff, or a Chablis or white Burgundy.
Gary Farrel, Napa -- Veddi, veddi nice
Hyde, Napa -- Food & Wine goes bonkers for this one
Londer -- we love Londer, from the Anderson Valley
Merryvale Reserve Chardonnay, Carneros
Roche Carneros Estate
Trefethen, Napa -- French style (pronounced "not melotactic soup")

(Extra Credit) What winemakers study...
Major commercially available strains for induction of malolactic fermentation in wine were examined for arginine metabolism in a resting cell system at wine pH with the aim of evaluating their ability to excrete and utilize citrulline, a precursor of carcinogenic ethyl carbamate (urethane). All strains tested excreted citrulline from arginine degradation. Citrulline was stored intracellularly during growth in arginine rich medium and was released upon lysis of the cells. All strains were found to degrade citrulline as a sole amino acid and some of them were able to reutilize previously excreted citrulline.
Um. Huh?

Argentina and Chile

2006-06-02T16:27:00.005-04:00

Argentina, Chile

Not the new kids on the block anymore, Chile and Argentina are producing very good wines at various price points. James Benjamin swears by them. So do all Argentinians. With good reason. Though it pays to be particular. A whiz-bang, throw-them-in-the-cart approach will bear bad fruit. But choose carefully and you've got a cellar's worth. One problem: I've had trouble finding some of the more expensive ones.

Caro
Rothschild & Catena is a joint venture of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Nicolas Catena. Good pedigree. Good wine.

Catena Chardonnay
Great, everday Chard. Comes without a lot of oak or butter, but rounded, balanced, complex, hints of flowers and citrus. The finish is fresh yet persistent, with bright, crisp acidity. Claro.

Catena Cabernet Sauvignon
Rich, concentrated and sophisticated. 19 months Taransaud barrel-aging, whatever that means.

Catena Malbec
"Appealing yet timid aromas of black fruits are found in the nose of the 2003 Catena Malbec. There are 25,000 cases of this fresh, focused wine. Redolent with red as well as black fruits and violets, its personality is medium-bodied and expressive."
- Pierre Rovani. The Wine Advocate

Catena Alta
Top of the line Malbec goodness. WS 93 pts. Concentrated, complex.

Crios
Dominio del Plata "Crios de Susana Balbo" Malbec scores 90 pts from WA.

Domaine Paul Brono
Coming soon... to a high-end store near you. In the Andean foothills near Santiago, Paul Pontallier, director of Château Margaux, and Bruno Prats, retired proprietor of Château Cos d'Estournel, are developing a 48-acre vineyard in an old apricot and walnut orchard; they call it Viña Aquitania. With Winemaker Felix de Solminihac, a third-generation Chilean of French descent, they are growing cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenère, and plan to plant petit verdot and syrah. The new wine will be called Domaine Paul Bruno.

Domus Aurea
Brainchild of veteran Chilean Winemaker Ignacio Recabarren. Supposedly VFG.
Available at WineChateau.com and 67 Wine in NYC.

Luca Syrah
Laura Catena's new breed of Argentine wines: small quantities, artisan quality, cutting-edge technology.

Manta Sauvignon Blanc
From the Central Valley, Chile. A zesty, citrussy, possibly too bright white. You decide. At $8 a bottle, you can't go too wrong. Available at Astor Wines.

Santa Ema 2001 Catalina Rapel Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. This is a solidly built version with raspberry, boysenberry and currant fruit coursing along ripe, sweet tannins and powered by chocolate and toast notes. Round, rich, powerful finish. WS 90 points. (Available at Whole Foods, Napa Cabs)

Santa Rita Triple C
Another Chilean saint. Not cheap (around $50). A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère. WE 91, WS 90.

Seña
Well-bred, for sure, the offspring of Mondavi and Chile's Viña Errazuriz.

Zolo
Mendoza, Argentina. Try the bargain Malbec and crisp sauvignon blanc.

With approximately 200,000 hectares under vine, Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world after France, Italy, Spain and the USA. Argentina has approximately 2000 wine producers but less than 10% of these companies export to international markets.

New York Wine Tasting

2006-03-20T19:47:00.002-05:00

New York City File: Wine Tastings...

A wealth of wine tastings in different neighborhoods, at different prices.

67 Wine
Near Lincoln Center, 67 Wine has tastings on Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

Aroma
After work, three wines and antipasti (things like marinated calamari, stuffed clams, bruschetta, tuna crudo) are $15 at Aroma, 36 E. 4th [Bowery/Lafayette] 212.375.0100, every Tuesday to Friday, 5pm-7pm.

Astor Wines
In-store tastings from time to time. And Astor Center features wine and cooking classes and tastings.

Bacchus
Bacchus, 2056 Bway [70th/71st] 212.875.1200. Often has one-hour tastings, usually one winery.

Burgundy Wine Company
Burgundy lovers already know about the Burgundy Wine Company, 143 W. 26th [6th/7th] 212.691.9092, but you might not know about their informal evening wine tastings, 5pm-7pm Monday - Friday (and Saturdays too), where you can hear some jazz, try some wines, have a little cheese, and schmooze with the staff.

Chelsea Wine Vault
The guys in Chelsea market offer in-store tastings and classes.

Heights Chateau
Heights Chateau. 123 Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. 718.330.0963. Tastings on Saturday afternoons.

Instituto Cervantes
Instituto Cervantes offers various tastings, all with renowned (and nice) experts. Spanish wine. Duh.

Is Wine
Is Wine offers free tastings of featured wines, every Saturday at 4:00 p.m. 225 E 5th Street. 212.254.7800.

Local Wine Events
LocalWineEvents.com provides a listing of all types of wine events around NYC. Sign up for "The Juice" newsletter.

Le Dû's Wines
Le Dû's Wines, 600 Washington [Leroy/Morton] 212.924.6999. M. Le Dû was the head sommelier at Daniel for a decade. The store is beautiful, with plenty of elbow room, they've got the really good stuff, but also some terrific under-$20 bottles. Loads of events, lots of tastings, knowledgeable staff. Look for tastings on Saturday afternoons.

Morell
Morrell, One Rockefeller Plaza has afternoon tastings Wednesdays through Fridays. Special events and tastings, also at the store, offer more elaborate wine tastings, vertical tastings and occassional cheese pairings.

Sea Grape
Sea Grape Wines, 512 Hudston Street 212.463.7688. Tastings on Thursday evenings. Nice, knowledgeable staff.

----------------------

NY Mag

Dr. Vino's map of NYC wine stores

----------------------

Thanks to Manhattan Users Guide. And thanks to Eric W. and Jenny Bird.

American Second Labels

2006-03-18T11:42:00.010-05:00

American Second Labels

Okay, I confess. I like second labels. At the top of the range, they’re some of the best wines you’ve never heard of. In the affordable realm, they’re dependable wines made by good winemakers. As one winemaker explains, “If you like a three-star restaurant, chances are you’ll like the bistro they open next door.”

Don't believe me? Try Karl Lawrence and Philip Togni's well-crafted seconds, or Double T, a balanced, very quaffable wine from Trefethen. For the price, you can't go wrong with Manzanita Canyon or Glass Mountain.

Here’s a list to start exploring. Prices range from $7 to $40.

Mother Winery (2nd Label)

Beringer (Napa Ridge)
Burgess (Bell Canyon)
Caymus (Liberty School)
Ch. Montelena (Silverado)
Cuvaison (Calistoga Cellars)
Cartlidge & Brown (Manzanita Canyon)
Darioush (Caravan)
Dominus (Napanook)
Duckhorn (Decoy)
Hestan (Meyer) (WS 92 pts)
Karl Lawrence (Aldin)
Markham (Glass Mountain)
Mondavi (Woodbridge)
Monticello (Jefferson Cellars)
Neyers (Byrd Cooper)
Mount St. John (Poppy Hill)
Opus One (Overture)
Philip Togni (Tanbark Hill)
Raymond (Amberhill)
Round Hill (Rutherford Ranch)
Sebastiani (Talus)
Sequoia Grove (Allen Family)
Schramsburg (Mirabelle)
Stag’s Leap (Hawk Crest)
Talbott (Kali Hart)
Trefethen (Eschol)
Trefethen (Double T)
White Rock (Madigan)

They're All Good

2006-03-03T19:34:00.001-05:00

They're all good.

There are not many infallible rules in wine. Not all Bordeaux are good. There aren't entire decades you should look out for. Australia doesn't make crap wine. Screwcap means absolutely nothing. For those in need of a few good rules, here are a few we stand by:

Big Guns
As Eric says: They're the best for a reason. Petrus, Latour, Dominus, Verite, Romanee-Conti, d'Yquem, Margaux, Ducru-Beaucaillou... pick the big gun that you like and, presto, all good. In good years the wine is ecstasy, in bad years it may fall to simply wonderful.

Brunellos
Supple, ripe, just enough sweetness, texture fine tannins. Stuff like that.
Try: Livio Sasseti Pertimali or Collosorbo.

Burgundy
My Dad and I had a contest. Desert island wine. If you could only drink wine from one region. Burgundy wins. Especially if the gods or demons of your desert island are footing the bill.

Grüner Veltliner
Plus, you sound like you know what you're talking about, even if you only manage to pronounce it correctly.

Montecucco
Damn tasty wines which under the newly minted denomination of Montecucco (across the way from Montalcino in greater Tuscany). Rosso, Riserva, Bianco Sangiovese and Vermentino are a happy family. Only problem: your local shopkeep might not stock them. [Props to Maremma restaurant for introducing us].
Try Ciacci Piccolomini's Rosso di Montecucco at Chambers Street Wines or Wine Legend in New Jersey. More on Ciacci P here.

Rioja
R for Reliable.
Try: Don Roman at Morrell.

Rosso di Montalcino
Some say Baby Brunello. $20 and up in the store, makes-the-meal $50 in a restaurant.
Try: Collosorbo, Banfi
Read: "The Other Montalcino".

Sauvignon Blanc
Crisp whites. The world needs crisp whites.

Viogner
From complex to merely crisp without oak or sourness, they're all, well, good, bom, bon, buono, gut, ii desu ne.

South Africa

2006-02-09T14:30:00.013-05:00

South African Wines

Some of our favorites:

Anwilka Red (2005 was the first vintage of this Cab/Syrah pedigreed newcomer. Klein Constantia and Cos d’Estournel hands. Parker loves it.) 90 pts WS. Polished, layered, plum and black forest cake.
Beyond (second of Buitenverwachting, easier to say)
Bien (single vineyard, merlot only)
Boekenhoutskloof Wolftrap (50% Syrah, 48% Mourvedre, 2% Viognier)
Bouchard Finlayson
Buitenverwachting (means "Beyond Expectations")
Chamonix Sauvignon Reserve (Jancis fave)
Columella
Constantia Uitsig (whites)
Fairview (whites)
Foundry (91 point WS Syrah and Double Barrel blend)
Glenwood (especially the Shiraz)
Hamilton Russel (worthy Pinot Noir and try their Chardonnay too)
Kadette (second of Kanonkop)
Kanonkop (reds)
Ken Forrester (Chenin Blanc)
La Motte
Meerlust (Cabernet and Merlot)
Neil Ellis
Rudi Schultz (Rudi was the Thelema winemaker; Syrah WS 93 points)
Rust En Vrede (WS 90 points)
Simonsig (Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc)
Solms Delta (Hiervandaan red blend)
Springfield
Stony Brook (especially the Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon)
Thelema
Vergelegen
Vrede and Lust

Where to buy:

In New York, try Sherry-Lehman and 67 Wine for Simonsig, Fairview, Neil Ellis and other SA favorites
Glenwood and others are available (when in stock) at Southern Hemisphere Wine Center

Empire Wine has Anwilka and others.

More:

See Sauvignon Blancs post

Wine Magazine: the local mag

John Platter: the bible of South African wine

Also Donald Dibber