Pets World

About African Grey Parrots

2006-10-08T10:58:00.000-07:00

The African Grey Parrot comes from a broad area of Central Africa. P.e. Erithacus being the nominate race, the Congo African Grey. P.e. Timneh more commonly called Timneh African Grey. Given the appropriate nutritional requirements in a nurturing home, African Grey's can have a lifespan of 50-70 years.
The Congo African Grey Parrot is a medium grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The feathers on the head have brushed white edging. The eye area is of bare white skin. A solid black beak and bright red tail are the finishing touches to this magnificent parrot. Young CAG's have dark grey tips on their tail feathers. They are also known as the "Red Tailed Grey". They vary in from 12-14" from beak to tail, also can vary in weight between 400-650 grams depending on the frame of the individual bird.
Greys from Nigeria usually have dark grey wings. CAG's from the Congo region are, on average, larger in size. On occasion you might see a Grey with red feathering throughout the body - they are known as "Red Factor Greys".
The Timneh African Grey Parrot is a dark grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The eye area is of bare white skin. They have a "bone" colored upper mandible and a dark maroon tail. The Timneh is smaller in size ranging from 9-11 inches beak to tail. Also TAG's can vary in weight from 275-400 grams.
The CAG and TAG as a baby parrots will have dark grey to black eyes up until they are roughly 6 months of age when their eye color starts to lighten. By the time they reach a year, their eyes become a pale grey color. At about 1.5 to 2 yrs their eyes will turn a pale straw color. And lastly at about 3-4 years of age, they will have a light yellow iris. This is one way to be able to determine an estimate of how old a baby is when visiting bird stores. Grey's usually reach maturity at about 4-5 years of age.
Note: When speaking in context of African Grey's; I am referring to both the Congo and the Timneh species. The only difference between the two species is their physical appearance.
The most common phrase I have heard regarding African Grey's is "the perfect mix of brains and beauty". I often hear people say African Grey's are not as "colorful" as most parrots. They apparently have not seen the true personality of an African Grey Parrot. They have a remarkable, noble beauty that takes your breath away!
African Grey's have the most extraordinary flair for speech. But do not think that they are limited to speech only! They can mimic almost any sound in your home. Although most greys do not start talking until a year in age, there are many cases where they will speak earlier. Some greys do not start speaking until 2 years, so never give up hope! They have the capacity to have a vocabulary of over 2000 words. I would like to add this "food for thought"... there is no guarantee that a Grey will speak. This should never be the sole reason for buying a grey. (Please see our Talking Article.) There is so much more to an african grey than just speech. a They are more human than some will admit. They feel our emotions and act accordingly. They do not mimic, they learn from us. Speaking in sentences, responding appropriately to questions, the physical motions to comfort us when we are sad, the list goes on and on.
African Grey's have the intellectual capacity of a 5 year old child with the emotions of a 2 year old. Because of this higher intelligence, they can be demanding pets and rightly so. They require constant attention along with a stimulating environment that includes various types of toys, a large cage, a play-stand.
Generally speaking, Greys are cautious birds. They have a tendency to sit back and watch you before giving themselves up freely. They tend to not be very outgoing towards strangers. Then are very intuitive to your feelings and it is always best to approach them with a calm demeanor. Once you win the trust of an African Grey, he/she will be your best friend for life. They are very dedicated and loyal birds.
My greys are very outgoing and playful in our home environment. Our home is their "safe place". They realize nothing will harm them here. My birds love to boisterously and acrobatically attack their toys. You have never seen a parrot play until you have first handedly seen a Grey scream bloody murder at their toys! The infamous Grey scream, it is an experience you will not forget.
In sum... although African Greys are the most popular pet parrot, they are not for everyone. They stand apart from the rest. It is not easy being a caretaker of an African Grey or any parrot for that matter. Lots of love, time, patience and effort goes into the relationship we have with our avian companions. They give us so much more than we can ever return.... Are you ready to take the African Grey challenge?

Your Attitude Is Important When Dog Training

2006-10-08T10:56:00.001-07:00

There is nothing more critical to the success of dog training than the owner’s attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more important than the equipment purchased, the exact system used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can destroy the likelihood of effective training more quickly than an owner with the wrong outlook on the training process.Dogs naturally crave and enjoy human companionship. When their human companions approach them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong desire to act in a manner that will please their master.

This is why a proper attitude is exceedingly important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is excited about teaching, the dog will most likely be excited about learning. Dogs can often reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a fact that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.Additionally, the proper outlook on dog training can make the experience infinitely more enjoyable for the owner. A pleasant training experience will naturally produce better instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to maintain a positive perspective at all times and should strive for a mood that makes the process fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks disaster.

The proper attitude and perspective truly is the prerequisite to training success.The owner should be positive. A positive perspective, of course, works in conjunction with any quality training method. Effective training requires positive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and affection is best administered by someone who generally presents a positive attitude. Training will be filled with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key component to training, are more likely to be appropriately and effectively administered by a trainer with a positive disposition.Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and friendly at the same time. It is not necessary to affect an angry or severe tone during the training process. These caricatures of displeasure do not offer any more training value than utilization of a simple serious tone. A lower tone with a serious “bite” is more than enough. When praising and instructing, the owner must remember to use a very friendly and happy voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to learn as a result.Most importantly the trainer must always remember that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training process exciting and enjoyable for the pet as is possible. By making the process a treat, the dog is especially motivated to perform.Too often training becomes nothing more than a mandatory task.

The owner does not relish the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get excited at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an undesirable chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed clearly by the dog and mirrored. Training progress stalls, frustration sets in, and the whole process becomes further crippled.The cliché that “attitude is everything” really does describe dog training. A negative or harsh attitude will crush hopes of success. A positive perspective coupled with friendliness and a sense of fun will make training a treat.A fun disposition also makes training more enjoyable for the dog owner.

The trainer’s positive attitude creates a more positive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer’s outlook even more. By starting the training process with a solid positive attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is sure to create amazing results. By approaching training with a positive disposition, a dog owner can produce surprising and positive outcomes.

How To Teach An Old Dog New Tricks

2006-10-08T10:53:00.000-07:00

Common knowledge and witticism tells a person that old dogs are incapable of learning new behaviors as is often bespoken in the adage, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. Despite the numbers of people who would proclaim this decree to be solid truth, we are here to tell you that it nowhere near the being an accurate description of the truth. While it is a little more difficult for an older dog to be trained, it is entirely within the realm of possibility if one uses patience and remains consistent in the dog’s lessons throughout the process.

The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation? To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other.

This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior.

This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat’s presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step. This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog’s previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed.

Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog’s behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.

How To Teach Your Dog To Eliminate On Command

2006-10-03T03:57:00.000-07:00

Teaching your dog to defecate or urinate on command is actually hust a process of creating an association.The command I use is, "Get Busy."

But you can use any word or phrase that you please.You're probably wondering why anyone would want to teach their dog an elimination command. And probably the best answer to this question is that it enables you to establish both a time and a place for your dog to eliminate.For example, if you decide to go to bed early, and you don't want your dog to be uncomfortable for the next 7 or 8 hours, you can very easily take him outside and tell him to "do it now," because, "You won't have a chance to do it later since I'm going to bed."Having an elimination command also allows you to tell your dog WHERE he should urinate or defecate. For example, if you're taking your pup for a stoll and he indicates that he needs to eliminate...

you don't want him to merely stop and do his business in the middle of the sidewalk. What an elimination command allows you to do is to walk the dog over to some bushes, or behind a building and tell him, "Here! Here is where you can 'get busy.'"How to teach the "Get Busy" commandJust like with any other command, your goal is to associate the phrase, "Get busy," with the action of either defecating or urinating.Here's what you need to do in 5 easy steps:

1.) Take note of the usual times your dog needs to defecate or urinate.

2.) Take him to the usual spot where he likes to eliminate and walk him back and forth, repeating the phrase, "Get busy, get busy, get busy."

3.) When he begins to eliminate, continue saying, "Get busy." After five or six different occasions, your command will start to link with the behavior.

4.) A half second after he finishes, praise him.

5.) Repeat this process every time your dog needs to eliminate, and you'll soon find that he will begin to understand and at least make an attempt to evacuate the contents of his bladder on command.That's all for now, folks!AdamDogproblems.com

Training your dog at home

2006-09-30T04:32:00.000-07:00

Training at Home – Part 1 Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session

Training Tips

Much of the training you do at home will occur during every day interactions with your dog. For example, when your dog jumps up, you should turn your back, fold your arms and reward him with attention only when all four of his feet are on the floor. Be conscious of all your interactions with your dog! Make an effort to reward behavior you like and avoid rewarding behavior you don’t like.

In addition, devoting a few minutes a day to a training session is invaluable. Many of the techniques we are teaching in class require you to develop new skills, such as timing, reading your dog and simultaneously juggling clicker, treats and leash. The ultimate goal, besides a better-behaved dog, is for you and your dog to learn to communicate effectively. Training sessions allow you and your dog to focus exclusively on each other. For this week, try to build a habit of at least one short training session per day.

Rules for training at home:
* One trainer and one dog at a time.
* Be prepared. Have your rewards, such as soft stinky treats, ready and decide what you are going to work on before you begin.
* Set your dog up to win. Progress comes from building on successes.
* If your dog is not “getting it,” change something you are doing.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note.
A session that ends with both of you happy is a successful session!
Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session How to get started:
* Find a place to train where you and your dog can be alone. Spectators are allowed only if they promise to sit down and be quiet. Other dogs in your home should wait their turn outside the training area.
* Get your treats ready. Positive reinforcement methods require positive reinforcements. Treats should be small, soft and something your dog is willing to work for. You can put treats in a bowl on a table, put them in your pocket or in a fanny pack.
* Pick a few behaviors to work on before you begin and decide what you will click for. Help your dog choose the behavior you want, by luring or by limiting his choices, and reward him when he gets it right. He can’t succeed if you’re not clear in your own mind on what you want. On the other hand, be ready to ask for an easier behavior if your lure fails or if he never offers the behavior you have in mind. For your next training session, pick different behaviors to work on. This keeps it interesting for both you and your dog. Avoid making training sessions into repetitive exercise drills.
* Set your dog up to win. Click and treat frequently to keep your dog in the game; the learning comes when he is getting it right. If you do not get an opportunity to click and treat within 30 seconds or a minute, ask for an easier behavior. Then assess what is wrong (see below) and try to fix it. Repeated failures, such as when your dog is not responding to your first cue, may establish a pattern in the dog’s mind of behavior you don’t want.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note. A good training session has a beginning, a middle and an end. Begin with a few easy behaviors your dog already knows, so you can give a few clicks and treats right away. Then spend a few minutes on learning a new behavior or improving an old one. End the session on a success – go back to a known behavior if you need to – then give a big reward and let your dog know the session is over. Following a training session with play, a meal or a walk is a nice plus.

The whole session may last less than 5 minutes - don’t keep going so long that your dog loses interest in the game. A tiny amount of progress in any individual session is all you need. Add up all the tiny steps and you will soon see very big changes.
If you are getting frustrated, try again later. Continuing will do more harm than good. What is most important is that both you and your dog enjoy the process, so you are motivated to train again the next day.
* Having problems? Does your dog seem anxious, confused or disinterested?
If anxious, don’t lean over your dog, use a softer tone of voice and don’t gesture or click right in his face.

If confused, make sure you click precisely when you see the behavior you want and that you click for the same behavior each time.
If disinterested, try better treats or a place with fewer distractions. Another possibility is that you need to improve your timing. Once your dog understands this is a game worth winning, he will be interested.
Training at Home – Part 2 Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability
Training Tips By this time, your dog can probably perform a few behaviors, such as “sit,” “touch” and “watch me,” some of the time. However, you’ve probably found that with any small change in the environment your dog may “forget” what he’s just learned. Teaching your dog the new behavior and its cue are only the first step. Your dog hasn’t truly mastered these new skills until he is able to perform reliably, which is at least 80 percent of the time, in the presence of distractions.
Training Procedure Mastering any new behavior usually involves these five steps:
1- Get the behavior, usually with a lure. 2 - Name the behavior, using a verbal cue or command. 3 - Change the lure to a hand signal, using a visual cue or command. 4- Make it a little harder, changing distance, duration, speed and precision, one aspect at a time and in small increments. 5 - Add distractions. Rules for Making It Harder * Make one aspect of behavior harder at a time and in small enough increments so that the dog will succeed frequently. * Temporarily make other aspects of the behavior easier.* Once she has it, make the other aspects harder again.
Example:
“Stay” – your dog will hold a stay for sixty seconds while you stand right next to him, but you want to increase the distance you can move away from him while he stays:
* Distance is the aspect of the behavior you are making harder and you need to increase the distance in small increments, so give your command and move one step away from the dog.
* Time is an aspect of the behavior you can make temporarily easier by decreasing the length of the stay to five seconds. Then, reward your dog for at least three or four five-second/one-step away stays.

* Now, gradually increase the time while you remain just one step away from the dog. Do this until he can stay for sixty seconds with you at a distance of one step. Note that it may take four or five sessions to work back up to a sixty-second stay at the one-step distance.
Adding Distractions * Temporarily make the behavior easier when introducing a new distraction.* Initially add small distractions that the dog is capable of ignoring.* Gradually increase the level of distraction.* Once he can easily resist the distraction, make the behavior harder again.
Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability Homework ExerciseLet’s say your dog will sit, but he stands and looks at you for several seconds before he sits and you are giving several cues. You’d like him to sit promptly on the first command.
First, perform the behavior a few times at the dog’s current level of performance and click and treat each successful sit, even if it’s very slow. Perform the behavior, “sit,” a few more times, but this time only give one cue and only click and treat your dog if he sits in 5 seconds or less. At this point, it doesn’t matter if he sits lopsided or not directly in front of you. Your only concern is time. If he sits but it takes him too long, speak to him with a happy voice, “that was a nice sit, but it doesn’t get a cookie.” Then, get him up and try again.

Soon you should see his average response time improving. Once he sits within five seconds, at least 80 percent of the time, decrease the time you give him to respond. Now reward him only when he sits in four seconds or less. Continue decreasing the time until you are getting an immediate response. Now put back any other requirements you have, such as sit directly in front of me, and only reward sits that are fast and straight.
Now you want to add distractions. For example, you have been training in the living room and your dog does great. Now you go to the backyard and children are playing across the street. Suddenly, your dog acts like he has never heard the word “sit.” If your dog is looking across the street and not at you, forget “sit” at the moment and try “watch me” a few times. When you have your dog’s attention, ask for a sit. Click and treat every sit, even if it’s slow and crooked.

If your dog is very distracted, you may need to go back to luring him into a sit, making the behavior easier. Keep the lesson short. You may want to give a big reward, the jackpot, when he gives you a good sit, then end the session. Remember, you always want to quit on a high note. The next time you train with children across the street, he will remember that paying attention to you is rewarding.
Improved performance and reliability will probably take many short sessions. That’s OK. A little progress each time is what keeps you coming back for your next session.
Examples of Distractions: * Change your body position. Stand at the dog’s side, sit down or stand three feet away from the dog. * Have another person in the room, ignoring the dog but doing something, such as talking or jumping up and down. * Go to different locations, such as the park, walking on the sidewalk or in pedestrian malls. * Go to an obedience class where you’ll find many distractions!* When your dog is doing a stay, tug GENTLY on the leash while repeating, “stay,” or using your hand signal for stay. You can also wave your arms, make odd noises or walk around your dog. Your dog learns to ignore everything except your release word, such as “free,” “okay” or “all done.”

why dogs wag their tails

2006-09-30T04:14:00.000-07:00

In some ways, tail-wagging serves the same functions as our human smile, polite greeting, or nod of recognition. Smiles are social signals, and human beings seem to reserve most of their smiles for social situations, where somebody is around to see them. Sometimes, vicarious social situations, as when watching television or occasionally when thinking about somebody special, can trigger a smile. For dogs, the tail wag seems to have the same properties. A dog will wag its tail for a person or another dog. It may wag its tail for a cat, horse, mouse, or perhaps even a butterfly.

But when the dog is by itself, it will not wag its tail to any lifeless thing. If you put a bowl of food down, the dog will wag its tail to express its gratitude to you. In contrast, when the dog walks into a room and finds its bowl full, it will approach and eat the food just as happily, but with no tail-wagging other than perhaps a slight excitement tremor. This is one indication that tail-wagging is meant as communication or language. In the same way that we don't talk to walls, dogs don't wag their tails to things that are not apparently alive and socially responsive.A dog's tail speaks volumes about his mental state, his social position, and his intentions. How the tail came to be a communication device is an interesting story.The dog's tail was originally designed to assist the dog in its balance. When a dog is running and has to turn quickly, it throws the front part of its body in the direction it wants to go.

Its back then bends, but its forward velocity is such that the hindquarters will tend to continue in the original direction. Left unchecked, this movement might result in the dog's rear swinging widely, which could greatly slow its rate of movement or even cause the dog to topple over as it tries to make a high-speed turn. The dog's tail helps to prevent this. Throwing the tail in the same direction that the body is turning serves as a sort of counterweight, which reduces the tendency to spin off course. Dogs will also use their tails when walking along narrow surfaces. By deliberately swinging the tail to one side or the other in the direction opposite to any tilt in the body, the dog helps maintain its balance, much the same way a circus tightrope walker uses a balance bar. Quite obviously, then, the tail has important uses associated with specific movements. However, the tail is not particularly important on flat surfaces, when a dog is simply standing around or walking at normal speeds.

At these times, it becomes available for other uses. Evolution again seized an opportunity and now adapted the tail for communication purposes.It is something of a surprise to many people to learn that puppies don't wag their tails when they are very young. The youngest puppy I ever saw systematically wagging its tail was eighteen days old, and both the breeder and I agreed that this was quite unusual. Although there are some differences among the various breeds, the scientific data suggests that, on average, by thirty days of age, about half of all puppies are tail wagging, and the behavior is usually fully established by around forty nine days of age.Why does it take so long for the puppy to start wagging its tail?

The answer comes from the fact that puppies begin wagging their tails when it is necessary for purposes of social communication. Until they are about three weeks of age, puppies mostly eat and sleep. They are not interacting significantly with their littermates other than curling up together to keep warm as they sleep or crowding together to nurse. They are physically capable of wagging their tails at this time, but they don't.By the age of six or seven weeks (when we start to see tail-wagging behaviors on a regular basis), the puppies are socially interacting with one another. Most of the social interactions in puppies consist of what psychologists call "play behaviors." It is through playing that puppies learn about their own abilities, how they can interact with their environment, and most important, how to get along with other individuals. A puppy learns that if it bites a littermate, it is apt to be bitten back, and perhaps the game it was playing might be terminated by its now angry playmate. It is at this point that the puppy also starts to learn dog language. It is not clear to what degree these emerging social communications are prewired, but learning is clearly needed to refine the use and interpretation of these signals. The pups learn to connect their own signals and the signals provided by their mother and their siblings with the behaviors that come next.

They also begin to learn that they can use signals to indicate their intentions and to circumvent any conflicts. This is where and when the tail-wagging behavior begins.One place where conflicts are likely to occur is during feeding. When a puppy wants to suckle its mother, it must come very close to its littermates as it crowds in to find her teats. Remember that this puppy is now coming close to the very same individuals that might have been nipping, jostling, or chasing him a few minutes earlier. To indicate that this is a peaceful situation, and to calm any fearful or aggressive response by the other puppies when they too are pushing toward the mother's teat, the puppy begins to wag its tail. Tail-wagging in the puppy then serves as a truce flag to its littermates. Later on, puppies will begin to wag their tails when they are begging food from the adult animals in their pack or family. The puppies come close, to lick the face of the adult, and they signal their peaceful intentions by tail-wagging. It thus becomes clear that the reason that very young puppies don't wag their tails is that they don't yet need to send appeasement signals to other dogs. When communication between dogs is needed, they rapidly learn the appropriate tail signals.Tail language actually has three different channels of information: position, shape, and movement. Movement is a very important aspect of the signal, since dog's eyes are much more sensitive to movement than they are to details or colors.

This makes a waving or wagging tail very visible to other dogs.Evolution has used a few additional tricks to make the tails even more visible. Wild canines, like wolves, often have great bushy tails, which are easily seen at a distance. In addition, many tails are specially colored to facilitate recognition of tail signals. Often, the underside of the tail is lighter, to make the high-tailed signals quite visibly different from signals involving the tucking of tails into a lower position. Many canines will also have distinctive markings to make the tail tip more visible. Usually, there is a lightening toward the tail tip, or perhaps simply a white mark which defines the tip of the tail. In other canines, the tail tip is noticeably darker. Either of these two color contrasts helps to make the end of the tail more visible, and this make movement and position cues easier to recognize...."

Dog licking - Why Dogs Lick

2006-09-30T04:13:00.000-07:00

As the puppies grow older, they begin to lick and clean themselves and their littermates. This mutual licking and grooming serves social functions. Obviously, it helps keep the puppies clean, but in the process it helps strengthen the bonds between the puppies. The actual mechanism that builds this affection is mutual satisfaction.

A puppy can have companions get at those hard-to-reach places, like ears and backs and faces, and can pay them back by licking their littermates in their inaccessible regions. Since friends and familiars groom friends and familiars as a considerate gesture, the very act of licking another dog develops significance as a means of communication. Licking thus shifts from being a utilitarian and useful act to becoming a ritualized gesture.

The meaning of this gesture at this time in a puppy's life involves goodwill and acceptance. In effect, each puppy is saying, "Look how friendly I am." As the puppy matures, the message sent by licking continues to be friendly but is widened to also mean, "I'm no threat," and perhaps the submissive plea, "Please accept me and be kind."Licking takes on a further meaning a bit later in the puppy's life, usually around the time that it is becoming less dependent on its mother's milk. In the wild, when a mother wolf returns from hunting, she will have already fed herself on her quarry. When she enters the den, the puppies gather around her and begin to lick her face. To a romantic, this may look like a loving greeting with all of the puppies overjoyed at mother's return after her absence of several hours. They are seen as simply kissing her in happiness and relief. The actual purpose of all of this face licking, however, is much more functional. Wild canines have a well-developed regurgitation reflex, and the puppies lick their mother's face and lips to cause her to vomit up some food.

It is most convenient for the mother to carry food in her stomach rather than trying to drag things back to the den in her mouth. Furthermore, this partially digested material makes ideal dining for young puppies.It is interesting to note that our domestic dogs actually have a reduced sensitivity for their regurgitation reflex in comparison to wolves or jackals. Puppy-induced regurgitation is not as often seen in dogs unless the pups are not being fed well. When it does occur, it is more likely to occur in sharp-faced breeds that appear to be more similar to wild canines, such as the wolf.Understanding the development of licking behavior helps to interpret another place where it occurs. Face licking in adult canines can be a sign of respect or deference to a more dominant dog. The dog doing the licking usually lowers its body to make itself smaller, and looks up, adding to the effect of juvenile behavior. The dog receiving the face licks shows its dominance by standing tall to accept the gesture, but does not lick the other dog in return.Now when your dog tries to lick your face, you should have a better idea of what he's trying to communicate. He may simply be hungry and asking for a snack. Obviously, you won't regurgitate some food at that signal, but you might respond affectionately and perhaps give him a treat, such as a dog biscuit.

He may be communicating submission and pacification-the adult version of goodwill in puppies. Basically, he is saying, "Look, I'm just like a puppy who is dependent on big adults like you. I need your acceptance and help." Alternatively, he may be showing respect and deference to you as a more dominant dog in his pack..."

Dog Bones

2006-09-30T04:12:00.000-07:00

Dogs eat non-digestible dirt, rocks, tampons, plastic squeaky toys, and rawhides. They vomit, choke, poop out foreign objects, sometimes need veterinary attention... these are real dogs in real life. One of my Rottweilers had to have 3 ft. of Christmas tinsel pulled out of his butt by a vet. I know a woman who lost her champion German shepherd because he choked to death on a tennis ball of all things. A neighbor's Cocker ate a sock resulting in an impaction that would have been the end of her without surgery. Every veterinarian you talk to will have stories of weird things ingested by dogs needing medical intervention - my old vet had an x-ray from a Labrador who ate an entire braided rug. Can dogs die from eating raw bones? Of course - they can die from eating just about all the other things eat too! There are risks , you can avoid completely, risks you can minimize, and risks you can accept only as a theoretical possibility. Just as every activity carries some risk, we are willing to accept risk when we feel it is minimal compared to the benefits. And feeding raw has huge benefits. Remember never feed cooked bones. These are not well digested by dogs and can splinter easily.
Raw meaty bones can be placed into categories;our RMB's that are part of a meal and are consumed entirely - or almost entirely - and RMB's are recreational that is bones that are chewed on, left, returned to, left and so on. Recreational bones for one dog may be a meal for another. Deciding which RMB's to feed depends on how your dog eats. Daphne, Dutch and Phoebe all chew their food thoroughly - so I feel comfortable giving them any kind of bones, even the large, weight-bearing bones.

Cooper gulps his down in a nanosecond. I call the chicken wings I feed him "sliders" because they slide right down his gullet in a single crunch. If your dog eats like Cooper , you can try encouraging him to slow down by holding one end of the food while the eats, or feeding separately from other dogs so he doesn't feel like he must inhale his food faster than everyone else! I often feed Cooper frozen or partially frozen RMB's because his forces him to chew a bit. Stay within your own comfort level with this. Some people smash the our RMB's with a hammer or meat-tenderizing tool first. And don't forget, grinding is always an adoption. This will eliminate any fears you have!

BLOAT (DILATATION VOLVULUS)

2006-09-30T04:11:00.000-07:00

Bloat (dilatation) followed by stomach rotation (stomach torsion) is a lifethreatening condition. Partial or complete rotation prevents food from entering or leaving the stomach. The abdomen swells. The affected dog may drool, retch, wander restlessly, become listless, or show signs of pain. Shock quickly develops.

Bloat is an acute condition with a high fatality rate even for dogs that receive immediate medical attention. Early diagnosis and swift surgical intervention, combined with aggressive medical therapy, increases the chances of survival.

This condition, however, is as serious as it gets.DIAGNOSIS - X-rays will confirm the diagnosis. An affected dog may be just uncomfortable or in advanced lifethreatening shock. Reducing pressure inside the stomach is vital. If a tube cannot be passed down the esophagus. your vet will insert a large-diameter needle through the abdominal wall directly into the stomach
TREATMENT - Emergency therapy with fluids, corticosteroids, antibiotics, drugs to control related heart arrhythmias, and drugs to limit the release of large quantities of tissue-damaging tree radicals starts immediately.At the same time, surgery is used to rotate the stomach back and to secure it down into its normal position.

The spleen, because it acts as a pendulum and is often damaged by a gastric rotation, is usually (although probably needlessly) removed.PREVENTION - If you have a dog that is known to be at risk of bloat (see description at bottom), you can take steps to prevent the problem. Limit water consumption for an hour before or after each meal. Do not allow the dog to drain the bowl of its contents: water should be consumed in moderate quantities. Do not allow rolling or other exercise after meals. Dividing food into small meals has not been shown to reduce the risk of further bloating.

Bloat in dogs

2006-09-30T04:07:00.000-07:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.

The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.

Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.

Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.

What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.

Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh

How To Select A Pet Dog

2006-09-28T16:34:00.000-07:00

Some key factors when selecting a pet dog.
By Chris Gilchrist

Here are things to keep in mind when selecting the right dog for you.
Age The ideal time to acquire a puppy is between six and eight weeks of age, to permit normal psychological development, since neither physical nor behavioral development is complete at this time. The best guide to the puppy's future is its parent, and buyer should if possible select a puppy from known breeding stock. The puppy should be normally plump, lively and free from obvious physical defects and extreme timidity. For establishing a breeding stock, the prospective owner will often do best by acquiring a pregnant female of proven fertility.Sex Male dogs are usually larger than females, more active, and tend to wander more as adults.Being less in demand, females are less expensive. Sexual cycles can be eliminated by spaying. The most desirable time to spay a female is after the first heat period as this will assure normal physical development.Breed The choice of dog breed depends on the use of the dog, and on your preference. All dogs require some kind of training and there is no breed that will make a satisfactory pet without it. Hounds and bird dogs are generally gentle with children and rarely get into fights with other dogs.

Owning a dog: choosing the right breed for a pet

2006-09-21T01:51:00.000-07:00

A person looking to own a purebred dog has a tough choice to make; there are great dogs in so many different breeds. Here is a basic outline highlighting the characteristics and needs of each breed.
Herding dogs - Dogs from this breeding group make excellent guard dogs. They were bred to be working dogs, so a herding dog needs to stay active for hours each day. Take them on frequent walks and play with them outdoors.
Hounds - Hounds are loyal and popular dogs that come in all shapes in sizes, from Beagles and Dachshunds to Greyhounds and Bloodhounds. They are smart dogs who often learn commands easily but follow them only sporadically. Hounds are easily distracted by their acute senses of sight and, especially, smell because they were bred to be hunting dogs. To prevent a hound from running away it needs to be kept on a leash when it goes outside. Otherwise, its senses will likely lead it on an impromptu hunt. Many varieties of hounds also have a loud bark that they use often.
Nonsporting Group - Dogs in the nonsporting groups include well known dogs such as American Eskimo Dogs, the Bichon Frise, Bulldogs, and Dalmations. There exists such a diversity within this group that a potential owner would be wise to look up characteristics of the specific dog breed rather than base a decision on the category to which that breed belongs dog belongs.
Sporting dogs - As the name implies, dogs belonging to this group are very high-energy, athletic animals that need plenty of exercise and stimulation. Sporting dogs are not lazy lap dogs; they were bred to assists hunters by finding a retrieving game. Many of them make great pets because they are even-tempered dogs that get along well with children and adults. Pointers, Retrievers, Setters and Spaniels are all sporting dogs.
Terriers - One of America’s most well known dogs, Toto, belongs to this group. His character provides a great example of what an owner should expect from a terrier. They are feisty and assertive and highly intelligent dogs who never give up and never back down. They cover quite a range of sizes, from small Carins like Toto, to the rather large Airedale.
Toys - When people think of Toys, Poodles Chihuahuas are often the fist dogs that come to mind, but the list of Toy dogs is actually quite a long one. Toys were bred down from larger dogs from a variety of breeds. You can get toy Greyhounds, Pinschers, Spaniels, Terriers and more. Because of their diverse origins, toys different toy breeds exhibit a wide rage of personalities. Most of them don’t needs vigorous exercise and are small enough to take almost anywhere. However, for this group, it is once again best to research the animal by breed not the group to which that breed belongs.
Working Group - Working dogs are usually quite large strong and sturdy. They have been bred to carry out specialized tasks, such as pulling a sled or guarding other animals. Most of them have thick fur and so prefer cold weather over hot. Because these dogs were bred to work, they enjoy regular exercise, but many are otherwise laid-back dogs.

Toys for Guinea Pigs

2006-04-27T05:33:00.000-07:00

A very common question is "What kind of toys do guinea pigs like to play with?" All piggies like different types of toys, but some successful ideas have been:

1) A balled up piece of blank computer paper. (Anything colored may contain harmful dyes).
2) Empty toilet paper rolls or paper towel tubes. Many pigs love to gnaw on these, carry them around the cage, etc.
3) Same as number 2, but with a slit up the side and stuffed with hay.
4) Bird toys. Some like them to hang from their cages in various spots. Other guinea pigs prefer them laying on the floor of the cage so that they can pick them up and shake them all about.
5) Ping Pong balls, tennis balls, ferret balls (or cat balls that don't have small parts that can be chewed through and swallowed). Some piggies enjoy nudging these around their cages.
6) Ferret hammocks and ferret sleeping bags. You can buy these any pet store that sells ferret supplies, or you can make your own.
7) Stuffed animals.
8) Empty old sock. Some cavies like to drag one around the cage with them.
9) Old sock stuffed with hay.
10) Large Chubes are fun for them to run through and chew.
11) Hidey Houses are great to run through and climb upon.
12) Pieces of PVC pipe for them to climb through, hide in, climb on, etc.
13) Large piles of hay to hide in, sleep in, and of course EAT!
14) Cinder blocks make great hiding places AND keep them cooler in the summer.
15) The largest size plastic Igloo ("Pigloos," if you will) sold by pet stores.
16) Large "Fiddle Sticks" sold by pet stores make great hiding places.
17) Empty brown paper bags make great hiding places as well as something fun to chew on.
18) Empty cardboard boxes. Larger ones make great "houses," and smaller ones filled with a few food pellets make great "rattles" for your piggie to toss about.
19) Cuddle Cups can be found at most pet stores and make great "beds" for your guinea pigs.
20) Mirrors. Some guinea pigs like to look at their own reflections.
21) Towels/blankets draped strategically around the cage can create fun "caverns" for them to hide/play in.
22) Wooden toys such as alphabet blocks, wooden spoons, etc.
NEVER buy a wheel or exercise ball for your guinea pig. They can result in spinal problems for your cavy.

Hamster help for broken bones

2006-04-27T05:32:00.000-07:00

Here is our hamster, who is known as Pot Noodle, (named after the UK snack food, due to his tendency to eat and eat and eat!), or Noodle for short. He is a year old now and is a very curious and energetic long haired syrian with plenty of character as can be seen from the picture. Noodle has a multi-level cage and recently had a fall during the night. Unfortunately, because of this he managed to break his front left arm and so is feeling sorry for himself at the moment.
We took him to the Vets and they gave us the following advice (just in case anyone else has the same problem):
1. Take away any exercise activities from his cage (i.e. wheels, etc)2. Take away any extra multi-levels so that his cage is all on one level and try to find a balance between minimising the size of the cage and not making him too bored3. Make sure he has extra bedding to make him comfortable when sleeping4.Try adding more calcium to his diet by adding pieces of milk soaked bread and/or pieces of high calcium dog biscuits to his food. This will help his bones heal quicker due to the extra calcium in his diet.
We have done these things and Noodle does not seem to be in any distress or excess pain, however, he can only hobble around at the minute, trying to keep the weight off his front left paw. The Vet said that the break will heal itself in around 6 weeks time, however, depending on how straight the bone heals itself, he may always suffer from a slight limp. During his recovery period we are trying to keep him happy and make up for his lack of exercise and climbing activities by giving him some extra treats and paying him lots of attention.
I hope that this information is useful to anyone in the unfortunate event that their own hamster has a similar accident. It seems that although multi-level style cages (i.e. RotoStak, etc) are fun and entertaining for the hamster to live in, there are some safety issues to consider also.
For anyone concerned about Noodle's health at the moment, he is not in any real pain, and is quite his normal character. In fact, the main problem is turning down his frequent requests to come out of the cage and play, as it is much better at the moment for him to rest and keep off his leg.

Housing Your Hamster

2006-04-27T05:30:00.000-07:00

No doubt when your purchase your hamster he/she will need a cage. There are many types of cages that will provide your hamster with a good habitat. There are countless attachments sold to make your hamster's cage more interesting including: plastic tubing, hamster wheels, separate tiers, ladders, bridges, sleeping areas, ceramic houses and shoes containing holes, mazes, and lots more! But the most important part is the cage to put your hamster in here are some possiblities...

Aquariums
Both glass and plastic aquariums can be used as hamster housing. An advantage that plastic has over glass is that it is lighter and therefore easier to clean, but plastic scratches more easily. Both glass and plastic aquariums have the advantage of being draft-proof; therefore, shavings and bedding remain inside (and not all over your floor!). However, they are cumbersome to clean. In addition, unless you add a specially designed top that takes add-ons such as standard clip-on water bottles and/or food dishes they are not a good choice. Aquariums are not suitable for a clip-on exercise wheel, although a freestanding wheel can be substituted. You must keep in mind that a freestanding wheel will take up more space in your hamster's home than a clip-on wheel. Wheels are a very important part of your hamsters cage as they provide an outlet for the hamsters nearly endless energy.
If you decide to use an aquarium as your hamster's home, you must cover it securely so that he cannot escape. Ventilated plastic tops designed specifically for these purposes are available. You should ALWAYS use them for your "hamster aquarium". The ventilated plastic tops often have modifications to take add-ons such as hanging water bottles. Don't use covers with large holes or easy to open lids as your hamster may escape; screen lids are not a smart choice ether as your hamster may chew a hole in the lid and get away! Remember that hamsters originate from a desert environment and yours does not like damp conditions so avoide solid lids as these do not all proper venilation and will cause condensation in the aquarium.
Most aquariums range in $5-$100 in price.
Hamster Cages
Traditionally hamsters were kept in cages and a cage is always the best choice for your hamster. Traditional hamster cages are normaly wire, square, structures with a metal or plastic litter pan, with a wire door that hooks over a ridged strip of metal. A variety of wire cages are sold today and these cages are the best thing you can put your hamster in. They are normally about 1-3 feet tall and many have two or more stories connected with ramps or ladders, giving your hamster a few dimensions to explore. They have a metal or plastic bottom that should be filled with cage litter and a wheel, water bottle, and many other fun toys are easy to attach to the metal wire sides. The best ones have doors on both the top and side of your cage making it easier to remove your hamster.
Cages range from $10-$300 in price.
Tube Cages
Some cages are designed as compartments connected via a series of plastic tubes, but you should avoid the ones with round components because hamsters may become disoriented without corners. Tube cages can be more difficult to clean than the traditional hamster cage. You must also ensure that the connecting tunnels will be large enough for your hamster to pass through when he is grown to full size.
Tube Cages range from $15-$500 in price.
Hamster Habitats
These speciality cages usally have a theme (desert, space, theme park etc). Most are designed to appeal to children since they are most often large bulky and brightly colored. Most are also decorated with cartoon hamsters, there is even a version featuring Hamtaro! They are large clear (or tinted) plastic filled with a tubing maze that offten extends outside the cage and they usally have all of the toys and food bowls/water bottles attached. Many also contain a "sky box" a tube that comes out of the cage conected to a clear plastic box. They are offten expensive and hard to clean.
They range in price from $20-$1000!
SIZE OF HOUSING
Your hamsters cage should be large enough that he/she can run without bumping into a wall or decoration. He/she should have at least 2 feet of clear running space. If your container has attached tubing, wheels, etc then make sure your hamster will fit in them when they are full grown!
SAFETY
The door must close firmly or your hamster may be able to push it open and escape. The doors should open outward rather than inward. If you use an aquarium with a plastic top, make sure that the top fits snugly over the sides and that the hamster cannot squeeze out. Your hamster's cage must not have sharp edges or broken wires that may cause injury.
If the cage is plastic, make sure there are no exposed edges through which the hamster could chew and make an escape.
All cages should be pet proof to ensure that if you have any animals with free run of the house they are not able to gain access to your hamster within it's cage.

Litter Types

2006-04-27T05:27:00.000-07:00

Meadow hay/straw: This is one of the cheapest and most readily available litter, but you must line the bottom of the tray with a thick layer of newspaper. It can be used to encourage rabbits to eat more hay and straw, which is essential for a healthy digestive system. It is easy to clean as when the litter is soiled you can simply roll up the paper and throw it away. This type of litter tends to be a bit messy so should be used with a high sided litter box or a plastic dog bed/storage box to keep it contained. The sharp seed husks of barley straw can cause injury to the rabbit’s paws, so you need to shake them out before putting it in the litter box. Make sure the hay and straw are dust extracted so they do not contain mites or mould.

Dried grass: This can be used as a litter, it is more nutritious than straw and hay but it is also quite expensive.

Paper pulp bedding: This is a natural litter made from reclaimed wood fibres that are too short to be used in paper production. This litter is very absorbent and has good odour control. It is light weight and easy to carry. It does not contaminate wounds, therefore is ideal for post operative care, rabbits suffering from sore hocks, sensitive skin, etc. It is sanitised to kill bacteria, mould and fungus so it will not harm your rabbit if ingested. Its has no added inks, dyes or chemicals, unlike recycled paper litters. The paper wont scratch floors, it can be vacuumed up, flushed, composted and is biodegradable.

Softwood litters: Studies from as far back as 1967 have shown that softwood beddings (for example pine shavings) can cause liver disease in small animals. When you open a bag of soft wood shavings you can immediately smell their fragrance, and this is where the problem lies. The smell is from natural volatile chemicals in the wood called phenols. Phenols are caustic, poisonous, acidic compounds which are routinely diluted for use in disinfectants, such as Jeyes Fluid. Inhaling phenols over time can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and respiratory tract, which in turn, predisposes the rabbit to bacterial infection. The risk of damage to the liver and kidneys however is more serious. As the principal organs for filtering blood and urine and eliminating toxins from them, the liver and kidneys are designed to process only a certain amount of toxic material. The most obvious consequence of regular exposure to large amounts of toxins such as phenols is that the body is working to its limit already and cannot cope with the added burden of anaesthetic. At lower levels however, however, there may still be damage to the liver which is not fatal in itself but which is sufficient to depress the immune system, leaving the rabbit vulnerable to infections, particularly of the respiratory tract. Fortunately this type of liver disease can be avoided by removing the soft wood bedding from the environment. For a safer use of soft wood litter, keep in a large, open, well-ventilated areas only and have your rabbits blood checked every few months. Finally the dust contained in soft wood litter (particularly sawdust and shavings) can irritate the bunnies eyes.

All About Silkworms

2006-04-27T05:22:00.000-07:00

Background

Silkworms are the larva of a moth (Bombyx mori) native to Asia that spins a cocoon of fine, strong, lustrous fiber that is the source of commercial silk. The culture of silkworms is called sericulture. The various species of silkworms raised today are distinguished by the quality of the silk they produce. Silkworms feed on the leaves of the mulberries (genus Morus) and sometimes on the Osage orange (Maclura pomifera).Bombyx Mori will not bite, making an ideal worm for feeding most reptiles, amphibians and other animals, and they offer great nutritional value. Newborn are small enough for most baby reptiles to eat and young silkworms can even be fed so they will grow to a desired size. Silkworms are soft-bodied, slow moving and can grow to 3 inches in length. They are also relatively fast growing, reaching about 3 inches in length and ready to cocoon in as little as 25 - 28 days.Silkworms go through four stages of development, as do most insects: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult (imago) stage is the silkworm moth. The larva is the silkworm caterpillar. The pupa is what the silkworm changes into after spinning its cocoon before emerging as a moth. Since the silkworm grows so much, it must shed its skin four times while it is growing. These stages-within-a-stage are called instars.Today, the silkworm moth lives only in captivity. Silkworms have been domesticated so that they can no longer survive independently in nature, particularly since they have lost the ability to fly. All wild populations are extinct. Also contributing to their extinction is the extraordinary fact that they only eat mulberry leaves. Silkworms have been used by researchers to study pheromones or sexual attractant substances. The pheromones are released by female moths and the males detect the chemicals with olfactory hairs on their antennae. This allows the male to find the female for mating. The male antennae are made of many small hairs to increase the chances of picking up small amounts of the pheromones over long distances.

How to Grow Your Worms to the Perfect Size

The great thing about silkworms is that they only grow as much as you feed them, and they can go for a week or two without food. Say you have a couple hundred small silkworms, but you have a big bull frog or iguana. All you have to do is feed the worms as much as they'll eat, keep them warm and dry, and in a few days, you'll have some good sized worms. Have too many silkworms? Not a problem, feed them once or twice a week and they'll stay alive until you need them without growing much larger. Wash hands thoroughly before handling the worms or the food or they may develop bacterial problems. Using a cheese grater, grate a small amount of food onto the worms and repeat until the worms reach the desired size. For best results, maintain temperatures between 78° and 88° F.Excessive condensation forming in the container after feeding is the leading cause of failure. If this condensation does form, take the lid off your container and allow the container and old food to completely dry out. In the future, make sure the previous food is dry before feeding again. Old damp food is a breeding ground for mold and other problems, dry food is not. As the silkworms grow, you may need to transfer your worms to a larger plastic container. The lid needs to have ventilation holes. If not, you need to vent the lid so the silkworms won't suffocate and to allow condensation to dissipate. You can also use a shoebox. The old food and waste matter can be removed, but does not have to be if it remains thoroughly dry. Under ideal conditions (78° to 88° F and allowed to feed nearly continuously) silkworms can go from egg to 1 inch in length in about 12 days, and 3 inches in under 30 days. The worms will begin to spin cocoons at about 28 - 30 days old or when they are between 2 1/2 and 3 inches long.

From Cocoon to Moth

Silkworm moths emerge from their cocoons after spending about two to three weeks metamorphosing. As moths, they do not eat or fly. They will usually mate, lay eggs and die within a week. Fertile eggs turn from yellow to gray or purple in a week or so. If the eggs don't hatch within 3 weeks, they usually will not hatch until the following year (see above—from egg to larva).

Proper Handling Procedures

Again, in order for your worms to stay healthy for many weeks, you'll need to keep the silkworms as dry as possible. If condensation builds up during feeding, vent the container lid to prevent excess humidity.Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly before handling the worms or their food. Silkworms can be susceptible to bacteria if you don't properly handle them. As long as the container environment remains dry, your worms will be fine.Mold develops from high temperatures and high humidity. If the worms are covered with droppings, silk and old food for too long, mold may develop and kill the worms. If mold does develop, grate about 1/4 inch of food (sold separately) all over the worms with a cheese grater. As the worms crawl to the top of the new food pile you can transfer them off the moldy food and place them into a new container. Silkworms are susceptible to bruising and dying if not handled with care, especially as they grow larger. When handling and transferring the worms, be very gentle.

Bloat in dogs and how to..

2006-03-03T08:26:00.000-08:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh

Zawed

2006-01-01T01:03:00.000-08:00

Zawed Directory please all of you add your site .

Google search hates me! - VBulletin Webmaster Forums

2005-12-28T14:07:00.000-08:00

Google search hates me! - VBulletin Webmaster Forums

TEN THINGS YOUR DOG WANTS YOU TO KNOW

2005-12-25T11:57:00.000-08:00

If your dog could talk, these are some of most important things she would like to tell you...
1 - My life will probably only last 7 to 14 years. It will hurt me more than you know if I have to be away from you for longer than a day or two.
2 - If you have patience with me and give me time to learn what you would like from me, I can promise you, you will never be disappointed.
3 - Trust me with your life and have faith in our future together. If I don't feel that you honestly believe in me, I will suffer great emotional stress. My sense of self-worth is totally dependent upon your confidence in me.
4 - Don’t stay mad at me for long or confine me to a cage to punish me. You have your friends, your job, and your recreation. I HAVE ONLY YOU!
5 - Talk to me about anything you want as frequently as possible. Even if I can’t comprehend your precise words, I can understand the meaning of what you’re telling me by the tone of your voice.
6 - Remember no matter how you treat me, I will NEVER forget it.
7 - When you consider raising your hand to hit me, remember I have teeth that could break the bones in your hand, but I choose not to bite you.
8 - Before you scream at me for failing to respond to your commands as I usually do, take time to think about what might be wrong with me that would cause me to treat you differently. Maybe I haven’t been eating right or drinking enough water. Or maybe my age is catching up with me and I just can’t do what I used to do.
9 - Take good care of me when I get old. Someday you will be as old as me and you will see how it feels.
10 - Be there for me through good times and bad. Never say you can’t handle taking me to the vets for stitches or surgery. Nothing could make me feel worse. Everything in my life is easier for me to deal with when I have you standing by my side. Remember my love for you is unconditional and it will last for your entire life.

Bloat in dogs

2005-12-20T02:27:00.000-08:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Pet Ownership - To be read prior to getting an animal

2005-12-20T02:25:00.000-08:00

I have written this in the hopes that people will read it and learn from some of the experiences I have learnt from. I realise that the majority of the regulars on this website will already follow this simple guide, and I know they encourage others to follow suit. This is aimed at people searching for information or for those who are in need of a little education and guidance.
I don't think there should be a distinction in the size of the animal, an animal is an animal no matter what the size and they still depend on you for all of their needs, basic and otherwise.
Before buying a pet there are a number of things that need to be thought about -
1) The initial cost of the pet
2) The initial cost of the pets' necessary belongings e.g. house, cage, bed, bowls, bottles, toys.
3) The cost of food for that pet - remember this is a daily/weekly cost
“One way I’ve found to keep the costs of pets needs (i.e. bedding, food,) is by buying in bulk, if you buy a lot it can last through the hard times which happens every now and again where one is short of money.” Nula
4) The cost of litter for that pet - this is also a weekly cost
5) If your animal should become ill (no matter what the animal is or it's size) then you should be prepared to take it to a vet - it doesn't matter what time of the day or night your pet becomes ill it should be taken to the vet. If your child becomes ill you take it to the doctors thus if your pet becomes ill you take it to the vet. The excuse of having no money does not wash. Before you got the pet you should have thought about it. Vets cost money, it's a fact of life - you knew this prior to getting the pet and if you didn't think then that you could afford vets fees in a worst-case scenario then why did you get the pet?
6) The taming of an animal is different in every case - some animals will be tamed some won't, they are all different. Think seriously about this - the animal you get may not want to be tamed - it may be content just doing it's own thing in it's own space. This does not mean that your animal is unhappy. However just because you can't teach your pet to do the washing up, vacuuming or play the piano does not give you licence to return it to the shop, have it euthanased, send it to a rescue home or even sell it. Patience and information about the animal will help you to understand it’s behaviours, although some behaviours will never be fully understood (I’m thinking along the lines of bar biting here)
7) Getting rid of one animal after it's novelty has worn off does not mean that you can now go get another animal - if you weren’t able look after your previous animal then think seriously about owning another pet. Animals rely on you for everything.
8) Some pets can live for a long time – upwards of 15 years, you have to be prepared to look after the animal for this length of time. Pets are for life, not just for Christmas or until the novelty wears off. They have to be looked after as well as you would look after one of your family members. In my house my pets come first and people come second.
9) What will happen to your pet when you go on holiday? Kennel fees can be expensive – even for small animals, however relatives and friends can not always be trusted to provide the same level of care as you do. There are some people I know that I wouldn’t trust with a book, never mind a living, breathing creature!
10) I can appreciate that at the time of buying a pet the owner may be in a position to look after it for the rest of it's life, and sadly circumstances change, i.e. losing their job etc. However I don't believe the animal should suffer because of this, there are schemes whereby you can pay for treatment on a weekly/monthly basis, there are places like the PDSA - Peoples Dispensary for Sick Animals who will treat your animal for a minimal donation upon receipt of benefits books or proof of low income (I assume that there is something similar in the USA/Canada etc). There is also ways and means of saving for possible future emergencies - I previously worked in a bar and averaged approximately £10 in tips per night, these tips were not guaranteed but they went straight into my 'ham-jar' (tastes better than jam ) and after a few months of working I now have enough money to cover just about any emergency Willo could possibly have. Incidently I have now stopped working in the bar and my way of funding the ham jar has changed to my loose change being thrown in to a tin. I have also never heard of a vet charging for advice given over the phone although that may be different in the USA/Canada.
“* Check out which vet(s) available BEFORE getting an animal or at least before it gets sick. This will save a lot of agony if an emergency arises and you won't have to spend valuable time to find someone to help you.
* Also check if animal health insurance is available. Here in Sweden it is and I have chosen to get both Doris and Smulan insured so that if worse comes to worse I know that I can give them the treatment that they need. If anyone is curious about Swedish small animal insurance here is some information: Cost $25 per year First $60 of an illness (one or more visits) I have to pay myself, and also 10% of the cost above that amount. Since an emergency visit costs at least $100 the insurance will pay at least part of any visit to the vet. Most major vet centres can reduce the fee with the insurance amount right away but at some smaller practices I will have to pay in full and then get a refund from the insurance company afterwards.There are no age limits for the animals as long as they are healthy when you sign up. No health check by a vet is required. Although there is a 30 day "quarantine" period for an illness but accidents are included from day one.” Mimmi
11) If you are a parent thinking of getting your child an animal then please think about this, if you are a child or young person (by that I mean under the age of 18 - legally recognised as an adult in the UK) then you too need to think about the above and also get your parents or guardian to think about the above. If you are dependent upon your parents for everything related to the animal then ultimately it is your parents decision, and generally that decision is final, however try to discuss this decision in a rational manner if it is not the decision you expected, write down the pros and cons, your feelings if you can't discuss things rationally. If you think for one minute you would not be able to afford such things for your pet then please don't get one.
12) Ask as many questions about the animal you wish to acquire, ask them to as many different people as possible so you can glean as much information as possible – I find that owners of the animals you wish to get are generally the best people to speak to, vets can be a good source of information (depending upon the pet and the vet’s specialist area), the R.S.P.C.A/A.S.P.C.A (and other equivalents) also have fountains of knowledge. The information is out there – you just need to find it. You should never be embarrassed about asking what seems to be the most trivial of questions – if you don’t ask you will never know, and that could result in harm coming towards your beloved pet.
13) Breeding. Before allowing your animals to breed, think about what you are going to do with the offspring. If you are lucky enough to be able to keep them all then that is fantastic, however if you aren’t lucky enough to keep all of the offspring then what happens to them? Can you guarantee good homes? Will you provide a level of guarantee (i.e. you’ll gladly have the animal back if the new owner has any problems)? Will you provide information for new owners regarding their new pet? Will you be able to check out these new owners in so far as their knowledge of care? Is the store you plan on taking them to good with their current animals (i.e. are their cages suitable, do they have the correct food, are they clean etc?)
I apologise for any upset this thread causes but I have tried to structure it so it is more educational than ranting (thank you to those who helped). It is not meant as a dig at any one person, I have just noticed over the last few months that certain things appear to be common place and seem to be accepted as being ok – some things horrify me.
Thank you for taking the time to read such a long article and please feel free to add any ideas you may have, especially regarding saving money, or paying for treatments. The more ideas we get and the more educational resources we provide the more chance animals have of being looked after as they should be.
Thank you to those who have already contributed to this article.

Why Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Do Not Mix

2005-12-20T02:23:00.000-08:00

This question has come up a lot recently in both the rabbit and guinea pig forums. So here is the long and full blown answer.
Diet
Guinea Pigs cannot create their own Vitamin C, therefore their pelleted diet needs to enriched with Vitamin C. Rabbits can produce their own Vitamin C so the diet is lacking extra Vitamin C therefore it is unsuitable for guinea pigs. Both rabbit and guinea pig pellet diets are made to suit the individual diets of both different species, therefore, mixing these diets or feeding to the wrong species will mean the diet then lacks vital vitamins and minerals.
Language
Guinea pigs use both body and vocal language. Rabbits cannot understand the vocal side of things, therefore the rabbit finds this frustrating. Rabbits are not very vocal at all, and they rely on body language to communicate. A lot of this is shown with the ears. As guinea pigs ears are not as big, or flexible, the piggy cannot understand the rabbit. This leaving the pig frustrated.
So, why do they understand humans then? Well, although it appears that they learn what words mean, this is probably more of an association with the sound we make. And if rewarded with a treat, the will respond to this. when we stroke our pets, it is like grooming, therefore making your pet feel good about itself.
Fighting
This is often the result of the communication difficulties between the two species. They simply cannot understand each other. The frustration can then lead to fights. These fights are not all one sided. Both the rabbit and the pig could end up bitten or scratched and seriously hurt. If a wound turns into an abscess it can be fatal, as can bites and scratches.
There is also the fact that rabbits have strong hind legs. When a rabbit gets excited, it performs an act called a "binky" (the equivalent of a guinea pig "pop corning") where the rabbit bounds to the air and kicks out. Rabbits also kick out on the take off to run fast. An unsuspecting piggy can get caught in the way and receive a nasty blow. This can seriously injure or kill the pig.
Sexual Frustration
While rabbits are not sexually attracted to guinea pigs, it does not stop them trying to hump the pig. This can be very annoying to the pig, as it is a form of bullying. When sexually frustrated, rabbits often nip and bite the victim of their frustration. A sexually frustrated rabbit will find anything suitable as a mate, a human, and guinea pig, a cuddly toy. Even furniture.
Can you stop any of the above?
The only prevention is not housing your rabbit with a guinea pig. There is no fix to all of the above problems that will almost definitely occur.
Pet Shops
So your now asking why do pet shops house rabbits and guinea pigs together. The answer, I don’t know. Probably because during a stay in a pet shop the staff feel the animals are too young to be affected by this, this is incorrect. The other possible explanation is because the stay in the store is so short. This is no excuse either.Pet shops who choose to house rabbits and pigs together are setting a bad example, and this is probably where most of the associations of keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together route from.
Conclusion
Don’t do it.Guinea pigs live with guinea pigs, rabbits live with rabbits. Of course, it is not that simple, but the bonding of pigs and pigs and rabbits and rabbits is a different topic completely, which can wait for another day.
Prevention is better than cure, therefore, prevent fatal accidents and huge vet bills by keeping these species separate.

Buying From Professional Breeders

2005-11-30T00:11:00.000-08:00

If you've already familiarized yourself with the animal shelter and purebred rescue groups, you may want to check out responsible professional breeders. To find them, talk with veterinarians, seek out local dog and cat clubs, or search the Internet. And be sure to read up on the breed you're considering before visiting a breeder. Thay way, you'll know what to look for and which questions to ask.

Look for a breeder who knows a lot about the breed and knows how to breed to reduce the likelihood of genetic defects. Puppies and kittens from professional breeders receive early socialization and training to make them better pets. Animals are often sold from a waiting list created before breeding even takes place.
Selling animals for economic gain is not the goal of responsible breeders; improving their animals, their bloodlines, and the breed is the primary incentive. To screen those purchasing their animals, professional breeders sell directly to potential buyers, not through an intermediary.
Unfortunately, not all breeders have the animals' and your best interests at heart. That's why it's essential to screen breeders by visiting their kennel and talking with people who have purchased animals from them. Breeders know that the traits of their particular breed may make them unsuitable for some pet owners and will not sell their animals to unsuitable homes. Responsible breeders sell pets with contracts requiring that the animals be spayed or neutered; educate buyers about the breed and responsible pet care; remain available after the sale for support; and take back pets who don't work out. Irresponsible breeders are out for a buck, caring little for the animal, you, or your new life together.
Be careful, too, of those who breed, sell, and promote "fad" and physically challenged breeds. Many of the brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds, such as pugs and Persians, have breathing and eye problems, and sharpeis often suffer skin problems because of their multiple skin folds. Other breed standards, set by breed clubs for showing dogs in American Kennel Club competitions, may include ear cropping and tail docking. These surgeries, which cause pain and distress, are performed for cosmetic reasons and are neither medically indicated nor beneficial to the dog. A particular breed's propensity for genetic problems, or a breed standard that includes cosmetic surgery, are both good reasons to consider a different breed.

The Humane Society of the United States