Horse Training Success

Beginning Jumping A Horse

2008-10-13T16:00:00.002+11:00

Want to start jumping your horse? Think you can hop on, point him at a jump and sail over? Well, you might get away with that. Like some people can live on chips and not get fat - until they're 40. But it's not actually a hot idea.

Here's a better one:
Find yourself some cavaletti, or even just poles on the ground and place them so that they are spaced out nicely for your horse to walk over.

cavaletti.jpg

Yes this will take some practice to get right, but one trick is to lay them in a fan/semi circle shape (NOT pictured) so you can lead and/or lunge him over the poles at a walk at different points in the layout and find the right spacing without having to constantly readjust the poles.

What's the point of cavaletti?
To teach your horse to measure his stride, to pick up his hoofs and not hit things, to go forward over poles when asked. Groundwork for jumping.

In later sessions when he's going over the poles nicely, you can start asking for a trot. Later on, get in the saddle and ride him through the cavaletti.

Jumping Horses

2008-10-09T18:37:00.004+11:00

Today I thought I'd do a short post on when to start jumping a horse. There will be a few more on horse jumping over the coming days, so if you have any questions, fire away and I'll try and include the answers as we go.

Many people email in asking for help with horse problems they're having. Many of these people are backing their horses way too young, which - in my opinion - is the root cause of their problems. So I just want to address this up front, before even getting onto jumping. If your horse is less than two years old you should not be on his back for any reason. Seriously. That includes your (oh but she's small and light) child. Their bones have not finished growing and the extra weight - in the long term - does them damage. Horses should live and be sound into their twenties or more. Horses that are ridden too young go lame around 5 or 6 or 7. Obviously that means they have a very short life, because lame horses end up at the knackers.

Please heed this. Until your horse is at least 2 (and preferably 3), you have a cute pasture ornament that you can brush and lead. THAT'S IT.

And now onto starting to jump. Having got the above out of the way, the next bit is simple. Not before they are 4. Again, it's all about the bones and letting them be fully developed and mature before putting stress on them.

Surely I don't need to mention that little 1-2 foot jumps are plenty for the first year. Do I?

Dealing With A Rearing Horse

2008-08-03T15:38:00.005+10:00

This is how dangerous rearing is (very lucky escape):

Whether you are working a seasoned horse or training a young colt who's confused about what you want from him, there may come a time when that horse suddenly rears up, and learning how to handle the situation before it happens is a lot better than figuring it out as you go.

Horses can rear for a number of reasons, but fear is usually the greatest trigger. A horse's natural instinct is to run away from danger, and seeing anything he doesn't know can make him feel apprehensive. If he's frightened enough and feels like he's trapped, rearing becomes a real possibility.

Pain may also cause rearing in some instances. An ill fitting bit may cause pain when you pull on the reins, causing your horse to instinctively pull up and back to relieve the pressure.

And then sometimes a horse's rearing is simply a test to see which one of you has the dominant position in the relationship.

Whatever the reason for your horse's rearing, it's important to realize you are in an extremely dangerous situation, and knowing how to react properly can save you an injury, and possibly save your life. Your reaction will depend on whether your horse rears while you are leading him from the ground or riding him.

What To Do If Your Horse Rears While Being Led

Rule number one; get away from his front to avoid those kicking hooves. It is far safer to get behind his shoulders and out of striking range. Resist trying to pull him back down with the reins. Your horse will only see this as an attack on his head and pull up in the opposite direction to try to escape.

Unfortunately, this video demonstrates the handler tugging at the horse from in front, with the horse struggling backwards and nearly falling over as a result:

Use a calm voice to try to regain his attention and get him to focus on you. As soon as his front legs are on the ground ask him to go forward. A horse that is moving doesn't have the physical capability to rear, so if you can distract him and get him moving again, the episode may be over.

What To Do If Your Horse Rears While You're Riding Him

The very first thing to do when you are on the back of a rearing horse is to lean forward, let the reins go slack and hang on to the horse's neck or mane. This is not as easy as it may sound, because your natural instinct is going to be grabbing on tighter to the reins already in your hands. However, if you pull back tighter on a horse that is already rearing you are likely to succeed in pulling all the way back over for a fall. Considering your horse weighs about ten times more than you, you would be at serious risk for being crushed.

Here is an example of the threat of rearing escalating into a full rear when the rider holds the reins tight:

The minute your horse's front legs hit the ground, give him a strong cue to move forward, both vocal and with a kick. If you can get him moving he can't rear again, and your next step is regaining control. As soon as he takes a few steps forward, cue him to turn left and force him to go forwards a few feet, then cue him to turn back to the right and go forward again. In this way you are showing your horse that you are the one in control, and by getting his attention back on you with familiar commands, he should calm down quickly for you. Be sure to praise him for responding to your commands and end the session on a positive note.

This gal does a decent job of getting her horse moving as soon as she comes down.

Being prepared to deal with a rearing horse before it ever happens to you is the best to save you and your horse from potential injury.

How Young Is Too Young?

2008-07-28T16:43:00.002+10:00

It's a question that pops up regularly in my inbox. When can I start riding my horse? When can I start sitting on his back? When. When. When? Are we there yet?

The answer (despite what you see every day in the racing industry) is leave babies to be babies. Stay off his back until he is AT LEAST two. Preferably THREE. You can do plenty of groundwork until then. And when he's two, if you just have to start riding, keep it very light (short trails or round pen sessions) and make sure the rider is light as well.

Horses take time to mature. Horses that are 'pushed' to bear weight when young will end up with back and leg problems when older. Chiropracter anyone? Sometimes as early as 4. Yes you read that right. I do assume you want to be able to keep riding your horse well into old age? After all the effort, time and money you pour into him?

This video horrifies me. They are both yearlings. Yes she looks light weight, but these horses SHOULD NOT be being backed at this age. She should be shot. Whoever advised her this is a good idea should be shot.

On a side note, have you ever considered what happens to the horse that you rode too young? I mean, he's lame so he gets sold, right? Who buys unsound horses? Hmmmm? Who exactly? Have a ponder. Then look your yearling in the eye next time you feel like trying to ride him and think about his future. As a steak.

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White Horse Genetics Unraveled

2008-07-21T11:39:00.001+10:00

An international team led by researchers at Uppsala University has now identified the mutation causing this spectacular trait and show that white horses carry an identical mutation that can be traced back to a common ancestor that lived thousands of years ago.

It is a fascinating thought that once upon a time a horse was born that turned grey and subsequently white and the people that observed it were so fascinated by its spectacular appearance that they used the horse for breeding so that the mutation could be transmitted from generation to generation," says Leif Andersson who led the study. Today about one horse in ten carries the mutation for Greying with age.

White Horse Genetics Unraveled

So the genetics of the white, or what horse people call grey, horse have been unraveled. Isn't it fascinating that where once (apparently) the white horse was a such a rarity and so prized that it has been bred to the point where one in ten horses has the gene. Amazing. Even more so when the research suggests that all grey horses have ONE common ancestor. Incredible really.

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Horses Afraid of Men

2008-07-14T16:02:00.005+10:00

Hello to all of out there in horse-land;

back again after neglecting this blog for far too long.
There was a recently emailed-in question regarding a horse (of course) and his apparent fear of only one of his new handlers. The female handler had no trouble while the male handler could not get near the animal without being seriously threatened.

Now first up, let's assume that both people are gentle in approach and of equal competence around horses. With that assumption, we can say that this horse has a fear of men. And moving further along, that somewhere in his past, this horse's natural suspiciousness of anything new was justified by some guy's actions and reinforced into fear of all men.

How does this happen? Some explanation thanks to the brilliant Temple Grandin:
http://www.grandin.com/references/thinking.animals.html

"animals .. think by making visual associations. These associations are like snapshots of events and tend to be very specific. For example, a horse might fear bearded men when it sees one in the barn, but bearded men might be tolerated in the riding arena. In this situation the horse may only fear bearded men in the barn because he may have had a bad past experience in the barn with a bearded man.

Animals also tend to make place-specific associations. This means that if a horse has bad prior experiences in a barn with skylights, he may fear all barns with skylights but will be fine in barns with solid roofs. This is why it is so important that an animal's first association with something new is a good first experience."

That includes men, women, boys, girls, bicycles, dogs, cats, umbrellas,logs..... It's why lots and lots of work 'on the ground', with gentle introductions to EVERYTHING you can think of, will serve you and your horse well in future years. But I digress. Back to the topic:

"if a horse falls down in a trailer the first time he loads, he may fear all trailers. However, if he falls down in a two-horse, side-by-side trailer the 25th time he is loaded, he may make a more specific association. Instead of associating all trailers with a painful or frightening experience, he is more likely to fear side-by-side trailers, or fear a certain person associated with the "bad" trailer. He has learned from previous experience that trailers are safe, so he is unlikely to form a generalized trailer fear."

So what to do when your horse is afraid of men? Well, DO NOT send him to a 'traditional' rough 'em up male trainer. No, no, no. You'll need a confident, experienced and gentle male handler to help your horse rewire his survival instinct, and learn that men are ok. Just basic, regular training will do. It's the attitude of the trainer to the horse that is important.

And it might be a wise idea to get all the guys who will be around this horse to have a few lessons regarding their behavior, so that the retraining doesn't get undone within a week of success.

Melbourne Cup Could Have Been A Pantomime

2007-10-26T11:38:00.000+10:00

As some of you may be aware, Australia (well, a large part of it anyway) is in the grip of horse flu. Equine Influenza if one wishes to be correct. And that means lockdown. No horse travelling. No Ag Shows, no Pony Club, no racing.

The legenday Birdsville Races were affected by the slight inconvenience of not having any horses to race. For those that don't know where Birdsville is, it's in the middle of nowhere. Known as the most isolated town in Australia, being 1161km (721miles) from the nearest capitol city. Population 120, food shipped in fortnightly and with no, I repeat, no, cell/mobile reception.

Perhaps taking a cue from this horse festival in Banbury, UK, the race meet went ahead anyway.

However, Melbourne has not been affected by this lockdown, and so the Melbourne Cup, with all it's high fashion, dress up silliness, drunkeness and stopping the entire nation working for a day, is scheduled to go ahead as planned:

Freak Horse Racing Accidents

2007-10-23T10:00:00.000+10:00

There they go again. Those Thoroughbreds and their 'freak accidents'. The Caulfield Cup is the lead-up race to the Melbourne Cup, the 'race that stops the nation'. The race that Melbourne has a public holiday to watch. Truly!

So what happened at the start of the Caulfield Cup to the favorite?
From 'The Age':

"The noise Maldivian made when he struck the stalls caused second favourite Eskimo Queen to lunge at the gates, slip to the ground and become caught under the stalls. She was also withdrawn."

Maldivian reared in the confusion and struck his neck on the barrier.

"...highly fancied Caulfield Cup favourite, Maldivian, was left gashed and bloodied just moments before the race's start... Maldivian... was taken from the barriers with blood pouring out of the 15-centimetre cut high on his neck. It needed up to 14 stitches."

Back to the subject of horse racing and freak accidents. Although I wasn't able to dig up any figures on the freaky ones, there is enough data about on the 'regular' ones to be rather worrying.

From Wikipedia:
"Current estimates indicate that there are 1.5 career-ending breakdowns for every 1000 horses starting a race in the United States, an average of two horses per day. The state of California reported a particularly high rate of injury; 3.5 per 1000 starts. As a ratio (of injuries with eventually fatal complications to total competitions), this is far in excess of all other legal human and animal sports, including boxing, motorsports and greyhound racing."

And from this study:
"As anticipated, the type of race had a big impact on the risk of injury. Horses in hurdle races were 4 times more likely to suffer serious injury while those competing in steeplechase races were 7.5 times more likely to sustain a serious injury, compared to races on the flat."

So that explains why horse racing 'freak injuries' really aren't freak injuries at all. They're just the more visible end of the ordinary injury rate in the sport.

Audio Horse

2007-10-16T14:50:00.000+10:00

It is with great pleasure that I've come across a dedicated horse radio show... and not only that, but one that does not discriminate against a person for living in proverbial Timbuktoo. Aka it is also available to listen to online.

Sensibly named 'The Horse Show', there are interviews and panel discussions on all sorts of horse management and training topics. Here is a list of radio stations in the USA that air the program:
http://www.thehorseshow.com/stations.aspx

And here is the link to listen online:
http://www.thehorseshow.com/listen.aspx
There is a catch - you need to be a member and it costs $9.95 a year, but at this precise point in time, the fee is being waived in exchange for completing a survey.

Thanks to the person who emailed in asking if the Horse Training Success book is available as an audio. It's not right now, but I'll keep the idea in mind. Your question sparked off the search which resulted in this find.

Make Your Own Rope Halter

2007-10-12T08:50:00.000+10:00

A rope halter can be far stronger than the 'regular' halter, and a lot more comfortable for your horse too. Sounds good? Even better, you can make 'em yourself.

There's a fantastic webpage on how to make your own, complete with information on the rope to choose, how much you'll need for your size horse, tools you'll need and the different knots and how to tie them. Oh, and instructions with pictures on constructing the halter of course! It's all available at http://www.naturalhorsesupply.com/tiehalter.shtml

The only improvement would be a video of the process.

However, once you've made your very own rope halter, here's a video I found to help you put it on your horse and do it up.

The Head Shy Horse - Ongoing Training

2007-10-05T20:19:00.001+10:00

Once you have helped your horse conquer his fear of being touched around the head you can gently keep reinforcing this in a number of ways. Obviously when your horse has been calm about having his head touched, reward him. Scratching a favorite spot is a good reward. Another reinforcement is to play with your horse's ears/pat his head while he is eating. Two reasons for this. 'If you relax and let me touch your face you can eat' (no eating no touch) and the good feelings associated with food will 'transfer' to being touched on the head.

And then you can take the training to another level. A useful cue to teach your horse is 'head down'. It makes bridling and haltering SO much easier, especially for taller horses. The idea is pressure and release. The reward for doing what you want is release from the pressure. Put your hand on his poll and push down gently and slowly increase the pressure. Ignore any fussing and as soon as you detect a tiny dropping of the head, reward by releasing the pressure and heaping praise on your horse. As with all horse training, small often repeated lessons are the most effective. Your horse will not 'get' this lesson overnight, but in time, he will learn to drop his head to a small gentle press on his poll.

Long term, you could continue on to 'bombproof' your horse to arms and ropes flicking about his neck and face. How do you do this? Well you stand at a distance from your horse that he determines is 'safe' and wave and dance about like a goon, gradually getting closer and backing off when he shows signs of nervousness of the lunatic and then in again and back off again etc until you are waving your arms about and doing the chicken dance right next to him and he is bored. The idea is NOT to scare your horse. Do NOT hit or touch him. Be somewhat predictable in your moves, but make them big, flamboyant moves like windmills and stretches. And don't necessarily focus all your moves or body language on your horse all the time. Ignoring him while he stands close by and you flamenco around the acorn on the ground will help him relax and will get him thinking that maybe what's happening has nothing to do with him.

Again, small often repeated lessons are the most effective. Your horse will not 'get' this lesson fully first go, but in time will not be bothered by unco-ordinated idiots raising their arm suddenly under his nose. And obviously this lesson will be a biggie for an abused horse. Baby-fairy steps in terms of lesson progression in those cases. It could take many lessons for an abused horse to stop shaking when you are standing on the other side of the paddock and raising your arm. So be it.

To desensitise your horse to stray and flying ropes, again stand at a distance from your horse that he determines is 'safe' and twirl and throw the rope about, gradually getting closer and backing off when he shows signs of nervousness at your actions or the rope. The idea is NOT to scare your horse. Do NOT hit or touch him. Be nonchalant and unconcerned. Pretend to be interested in other things. Ie don't constantly focus on the horse, but sometimes focus the fence or someone else or nothing at all. And then in again and back off again etc until you are too close to twirl a rope without hitting him. Do NOT hit him no matter what. At that point stop and offer the rope to be sniffed and inspected. When your horse is unconcerned by the rope, use it to rub him starting from the shoulder. Follow the same principles for touching a headshy horse with your hands. When he is fine being rubbed with the rope you can start gently draping it over him and sliding it off. And gradually move to swinging it over him and flicking it off. Please avoid rope burn or painful flicks. Clearly they will work against you!

The Head Shy Horse - What To Do

2007-10-05T20:14:00.001+10:00

Points To Note:
A headshy horse has developed the HABIT of moving away anytime someone reaches for his face, regardless of whether he thinks this will end in pain or not. It is up to you to teach him a new habit. One you want.

A few points to note before beginning. Always stand to the side of your horse, never in front. This is for your safety and your horse's peace of mind. It is less threatening to them for you to be on their side and in full view.

Always be mindful to have a relaxed, nonchalant, non-aggressive attitude. This is inside, how you are feeling, and your voice and body language. It all counts. Your horse can sense how you feel. Do not use angry voice tones or body actions no matter how long each lesson lasts or how slow your horse is at 'getting it'.

Take your time. Hours if necessary. Let your poor horse know things have changed for the better. Rub and stroke until he relaxes and quits being nervous. If you stop before he relaxes and accepts what you are doing, his headshy habit will continue. If you stop touching him when he reacts badly, this will reinforce that moving away will stop what he doesn't want. Always end on a high note.

Pay attention to your horse. He will tell you how quickly you can proceed with the lesson by his reactions to what you are doing. As you improve your listening, you will see an improvement in your horse's trust.

Remember that gentle hands will prevail.

The Nuts and Bolts:

The overall method goes like this. Start at a spot where your horse likes to be scratched. Somewhere he is very comfortable being touched and does not react badly. Then you gradually work your way from this 'yes' area toward the major 'no' area, backing off toward 'yes' whenever he gets tense, starts fidgeting, shows the whites of his eyes, pulls away, lifts his head up, swats you with his tail etc. You'll have to learn to read your horse. Incrementally rub and scratch toward 'no' to expand what he is comfortable with. Go as slow as it takes.

In more detail, start at the 'yes' spot. Typically the shoulder or sometimes the nose. Rub until he is quite happy and relaxed. Then explore where the boundary of 'yes' is. Stay within that until he is relaxed again. And then, for a stroke, slightly expand the boundary. And then go straight back into the 'yes' area. Circular strokes are great. The circle just happens to be a bit wider when you push the boundary of 'yes'. Gradually increase the frequency of expanding 'yes' by that little bit, until the boundary of 'yes' has been expanded. Back off into 'yes' at any sign of resistance. Make sure your horse is completely comfortable and trusting before going further. Repeat all the way up the neck, leaving the strongest 'no' area until last, which is often the ears.

This approach and retreat works really well. Often you will get to a stage where your horse will stand still and tolerate your touch, but you can still feel that he isn't entirely happy. Then it's time to OD on rubs and scratches all over the tolerated and nearby areas until he's bored. Well done. It may have taken a couple of hours of rubbing, but your horse won't give two hoots anymore.

Do this every time you catch him to reinforce the lesson that he no longer has to fear having his head touched. It takes time but is well worth the trouble. With time and patience, he will understand that this rubbing feels good, and he will learn not be nervous about your hands near his head.

For abused or severly shy horses it’s best to approach the problem in even smaller steps, beginning with whatever body part your horse will offer to you. This will be either his nose or his shoulder. Depending on the level of shyness of your horse, you may only be able to make contact for a split second. The split second being the amount of time he was comfortable, and stayed quiet. So keep touching him a little while longer each time. And stop before he shows signs of objection. It may be that you only get to put your hand NEAR his nose/head/shoulder. That's ok. It's all building up your horse's comfort zone bit by bit, or hair by hair! Once you can make contact long enough to start rubbing, you can begin to expand this 'yes' area.

The Head Shy Horse - Reasons For Head Shyness

2007-10-04T13:33:00.002+10:00

Another topic that keeps cropping up in emailed questions: the head shy horse.

The vast majority of times, a horse is head shy because of something a human has done. It's a learned response to a painful experience. Being smacked on the face, having an ear twitched, being hit over the head with a rope, whip or other object. Even a rider with rough hands once the bridle is on can make a horse head shy if the horse has made the connection between letting the bridle on and being jerked about in the mouth.

But as with any evasive behavior on the part of a horse, it is best to first rule out any physical problems. Why else would a horse be head shy? Well it can be a symptom of a badly fitting bridle. If the bridle is too tight, it presses on their poll and hurts. A badly fitting bit can be to blame. Or one that tastes horrid. How are his teeth? Are they due for filing? Do they have any spikey or sharp edges? Or any decay or abscesses? Now onto the eyes. Poor vision can make a horse head shy. They jump because they can't see properly and it startles them. Remember too that the horse has a blind spot right in front of him. Always approach him from the side, never directly in front.

Onto the ears. Bites from flies, lice, ticks or other parasites in or on the ear can be painful. Warts can be too. And then there's ear infections. Check the ears over thoroughly, especially if your horse seems to be more 'ear shy' than 'head shy'. It is helpful to know if your horse has ever had any of the above. Sometimes just the memory of the bite or infection, even when it has cleared up, will keep a horse head shy.

And last of all, if none of the above fit, a chiropractic adjustment could be the solution. If the neck is out behind the ears, your horse may have a raging headache and quite rightly won't want to be touched.

The Horse Who Thinks He's A Human

2007-10-01T09:54:00.000+10:00

Amusing viewing. Video of Patches the horse who rides in the car, eats cheeseburgers & apple juice, watches TV, fetches beer, answers the phone and at the end of the day snuggles under the covers on the bed.

Not too sure about the cheeseburgers though.

Parts of the Harness

2007-09-27T10:04:00.000+10:00

Another post, another question answered. This one was on identifying parts of a harness.
The best resource I found was at www.dragondriving.co.uk

They have a clear pdf file, reproduced below, with all the parts labelled. The 'whys' are courtesy of www.horsecart.com

BRIDLE

1. Throat lash
2. Winkers / Blinkers / Blinders - The blinders keep the horse from seeing what is behind and around him. Its good to keep the bridle on before the cart is attached and before its removed.
3. Browband
4. Winkerstay
5. Noseband
6. Liverpool bit
7. Curb Chain

An Overcheck can also be used -This attaches to the bit and the top of the saddle to keep the horses head up. It helps to prevent him eating grass or even kicking. A side check can also be used.

FRONT END
1. Rein
2. Rein terret
3. Terret
4. Pad & 6. Bellyband & 10. Girth - Saddle & Girth-This should be snug around your horses belly, but not to tight.
5. Tug - Shaft loops or tugs -Shafts go through these up to the shaft stops on your cart.
7. Wither strap
8. Neck strap - Attaches to breastcollar and reins go through the rings on top.
9. Breastcollar
11. Trace - Traces - Attach to the breastcollar and slides over the ends of the singletree.

BACK END
1. Crupper - Attaches to saddle and slides through hip/loin straps.
2. Loin strap - Attach to breeching
3. Back strap
4. Breeching strap - These can attach to the tug stops on the cart or be wrapped around the shafts.
5. Breeching - Acts as your brakes
6. Trace Carrier

Basic Horse Training Questions

2007-09-20T11:26:00.000+10:00

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at the mountain of emails requesting help with this and that and thought I'd grab a few and answer them here on the blog. The three below are all basic questions. We'll get in to some curlier ones later.

1. Do you have any tips for starting a colt 1 year old for pulling a buggy. What do you start with first, she is already halter broke and leads well.
A. One is generally too young for a pleasure horse, as opposed to a racehorse, to be doing anything other than getting used to being handled. Leave her until she's at least two, preferably 4 and fully grown before asking her to start working for her keep. That's great that she's halter broke and leading. You could get her used to the bit, but again, it's probably too early. Let her be at least two. You could get her used to seeing other horses pull a buggy, so it seems normal to her when her turn arrives and you could get her used to wearing a harness, without strapping her up to anything. Definitely let her get up close and personal and comfortable with the buggy so it's not a big scary monster. And maybe try leading her from the buggy too.

2. I am wanting to break in my miniature pony for my son. Does it work the same for miniatures as it does for large horses?
A. Very short answer to this one. Yes. A horse is a horse is a horse. The psychology behind training horses is the same no matter what the breed or the size.

3. When training a horse do you start with bonding (such as brushing and going on short little walks) or do you start with a bit and saddle as first thing???
A. I am throwing this question back as another one. When wanting to cultivate a long lasting friendship, is it better to be slow and patient or in their face to get to know the other person?

Hope these help. Feel free to post your comments too.

What Not To Do When Buying A Horse - The Biggies

2007-09-11T10:51:00.000+10:00

Go to view the horse on your own.
Don't bother with a vet check
Buy a horse because you 'like' it despite the horse showing bad habits.
Choose a young or green horse for young or beginner rider.
Buy a horse that's beyond your horse handling or riding ability on the assumption that this will help your learning.

Buying A Horse - What Next?

2007-09-10T10:43:00.000+10:00

So you still like this horse? This one is suitable for your level of horsemanship? No nasty habits? Well trained? Good temperament? Physically sound? If it passes all the others, it's best to get the last one checked out by a vet. This is at your expense. Don't even think of asking the owner to pay for this!

At this point it is usually ok to start serious negotiation on price. You're probably very interested and if the horse is great then other people will be too. It's perfectly ok, even sensible, to make an offer based on your vet giving their ok. This lets the seller know you're not a timewaster, as all this showing and checking takes time.

Another point to raise is the possibility of a short trial period, say a week. You take the horse as your responsibility to try him out. If it's a terrible mismatch, you both agree he can be returned. This isn't always necessary, but is a great way to be as sure as possible you've made a good choice.

Vet given the ok? Trial worked out well?
Congratulations on your first horse.

Buying A Horse - On The Day Of Viewing

2007-09-07T09:14:00.000+10:00

So you've weeded out the unsuitables over the phone and found a horse that seems to fit your criteria. Obviously the next step is to go and have a look. Buying a horse is buyer beware. Not to make you frightened, but it is your responsibility to make sure the horse you choose iswhat you expected you were getting. Check all claims made about an animal out for yourself.

To start with, take someone you know who knows horses. If you don't know anyone who will volunteer their time, consider paying a trainer or riding instructor for their time as it will be money well spent. There is so much to take in when viewing a prospective horse that many eyes alone will give a more accurate picture. Different people will 'see' different things. A beginner may see an affectionate good looking animal. An experienced horse person may observe an arthritic joint and a tendency towards pushiness.

Also on a general note, take lots of pictures. Consider making notes. If you have particular questions in mind, write them down beforehand and note the answers when you ask. This way you'll cover everything and remember a lot.

Health. Although the domain of health is for the experts, look for a general impression of wellness. In a well lit place, is the coat shiny and smooth to the touch? Are ribs showing? Does he have a pot belly? Are the hooves broken, cracked or poorly cared for? Is the horse alert or half asleep? Are the eyes bright and clear? The ears scanning for sounds?

Temperament. How is this horse around other horses? Watching him being walked past other horses as he is brought in from the pasture or out from the stable will give you and idea of how he relates to other horses. Does he kick or bite? This might be forgivable when directed at other horses, but not at humans. Do not buy a horse with bad manners.

Training. Ask for and watch the horse being caught, led, tied and groomed, including having all hooves picked out.
Have a demonstration of the horse being put on a trailer.
Watch the horse being saddled and mounted.
In short, ask to see everything demonstrated that you'd do with this horse yourself. How does he behave?

Riding. Let the owner ride first and put the horse through all it's paces and special skills. How smooth are the horse's responses? Are there any signs of resistance or fighting? Head tossing, leaning on the bit, laziness, tugging?

Your Turn.

Ask your knowledgable friend to try the horse out and then you have a go too. Watch for how the horse reacts to you. Go back to the basics and try all the everyday stuff as well. Leading, grooming, hoof handling, saddling up.

Paperwork. If this horse is a registered breed, ask to see the papers.

If the horse does not behave, that's kicking, biting, rearing, bucking, bolting etc then don't buy it. Did you hear that? No matter how stunning you think this horse may be! Don't buy it. Yes you want to feel a strong commitment to your animal AND you also want a well-behaved animal, especially if this is your first horse. Don't settle on a gorgeous looking bucker. It's not worth it, and the well behaved ones come in 'stunning' too.

It can be worth making a second visit. Ask the questions you forgot the first time. Repeat the same questions from the first time. Do the answers match? Is the horse behaving in the same manner?

Questions To Ask When Buying A Horse

2007-09-06T10:04:00.000+10:00

Once you have narrowed down your criteria and located some potential horses for sale it's time for questions. More questions! This time to ask the owner over the phone. The answers will help you decide if this horse is worth going out to view. Things to find out are:

Whether this horse is suitable for a beginner. Most people will be honest here, not wanting to endanger someone.
The horse's age, height and build. Does it match you criteria?
Color and markings, if these are important to you.
What sort of temperament he/she has. Quiet, calm, bombproof, gentle.
If she is a mare, what to expect with any mood swings, if any.
The suitability for your chosen horse activity. This is an opinion only, and should be taken with a grain of salt unless there is a solid reason for that opinion. For example, if you wanted a horse for jumping and the owner advised you this horse always refuses...
Any vices or bad habits. Charging, biting, kicking, bolting, bucking, rearing. Any of these and you can thank the owner for their time and end the call.
Easy to catch and shoe and trailer and worm? A horse that won't do these is a pain in the behind and you should consider carefully if you want to put up with these bad habits.
Any fears ie dogs, bicycles, cars. These aren't ideal either.
Any health issues. So you can research if an issue would be a problem for you.
Any soundness issues or physical limitations. A vet check will show these up, but why visit a horse that is known to be very lame?
What the horse has been trained and used for, now and with previous owners. Has the horse had experience in what you want to do? You'll have a lot more fun on a horse that can teach you rather than the other way around.
How long the horse has been in work (ridden regularly) and has it been in work recently. Some horses aren't trained until later in life. Sometimes horses are trained and worked and then put in a paddock and left for years.
Any quirks of personality to be aware of. Just so you know.
Why it is being sold. You may not get an honest answer, but it's worth asking anyway.

What To Look For When Buying A Horse - Cover The Basics

2007-09-05T14:17:00.000+10:00

First of all, let's go through some questions to find out what you're after and what's most suitable.

At what level are your horse and riding skills? It is a huge mistake, as a beginner, to purchase a horse that is beyond your current ability. It is far safer and easier to grow out of a horse than into one. You want a horse that you can ride now, based on your current level of skill.

Untrained, lightly trained, lightly handled or 'green broke' horses are often cheaper. There's a reason for that. It's because they need work, an experienced hand and time. They aren't as predictable or reliable. The training required can take months or even a few years (think $$) and can lead to a dangerous horse if not done right (by a beginner).

What you pay for with an experienced horse is the training that has gone into the animal and the world experience and familiarity the horse has with human ways. It IS worth it for a first horse.

And please remember that if a horse is to be ridden by more than one person, look for a horse that will be suitable for the lowest skilled person.

Next question, is this a child's horse or an adult's? The answer will determine a suitable size for you to be comfortable on and build to carry your weight. A horse for both children and adults will need to be small enough for the kids to be comfortable, while tall and strong enough to carry an adult easily.

Now what sort of riding do you want to do? Is this a work horse? A show horse? A serious or fun competition horse? A jumper, barrel racer or endurance ride? Or a trail & leisure horse? Do you want to do dressage? The reason for answering this question is that it will help you focus the temperament, skills and confirmation you require from your horse. And perhaps a suitable breed.

There is no right or wrong breed of horse for a particular genre of horse sports in terms of suitability. It is dependent on the individual animal. Some types of competition are restricted to a particular breed. ie horse racing is restricted to thoroughbreds. There aren't many of these, but find out beforehand.

Having said that, some breeds TEND to be particularly suitable for particular sports as they have been bred to excel in these. For instance, warmbloods and dressage, quarter horse and barrel racing, arabian and endurance riding. This does not exclude other breeds from excelling. Confirmation (the shape and way a horse is put together) will determine what horse will be good at what activity. A good endurance horse is built differently to a good dressage horse, for instance. There is no need to purchase a purebred or discount one breed over another. Find out what is important in a horse for your chosen discipline and look for a horse with those qualities. This is where your expert friend will help sort a suitable horse from one that just won't do. If you don't have a specialised sport in mind, any sound, healthy, quiet, gentle natured, well trained horse will do.

As far as a 'good' breed for a beginner goes, there is no right or wrong. The individual temperament of the horse and the training it has received are more important factors than it's pedigree or papers.

Buying Your First Horse - General Pointers

2007-08-31T12:19:00.000+10:00

Some general pointers on choosing your first horse
Geldings generally have the most consistent behavior. They are generally the most even tempered and pleasant natured. Not every gelding will be like this, it's that the odds are greatest that a gelding will be consistently good natured.
Mares, go in and out of "heat". They have hormone cycles. This may or may not affect a mare's behavior and temperament. Some mares are even tempered. Some can be Jekyll and Hyde. Be aware of this and ask the owner.
Stallions are not suitable for anyone other than experienced horse people. A beginner should not even consider one. End of story.

On the age of your horse, young horses or inexperienced older horses are not suitable for a beginner. Your ideal steed will be at least 5 and have been well handled and trained. You are after a horse who has maturity, who is familiar with the world of humans. A horse in his late teens or early twenties has plenty of maturity and would be a great first horse.

Of course, you are after a sound, healthy and pleasant natured animal. If the horse has a health issue, consider how this will affect the riding you want to do before deciding yay or nay. If the horse has a cranky temperament, it is not suitable for a beginner. Living in fear of being nipped or kicked by your first horse will destroy your confidence and your horsey dream, as well as being a physically dangerous situation.

Better Than Dogmeat..

2007-08-29T19:12:00.000+10:00

To anyone who doubts the Standardbred as a suitable breed for a life beyond harness racing, consider this:
ROAD KAR, a Standardbred Trotter adopted from SRF
SPHO Horse of the Year; USTA Versatility Champion

About Equine Influenza

2007-08-28T13:01:00.000+10:00

Following on from yesterdays news, a mug shot of Equine Influenza:

Highly contagious. Most, in fact around 100% of unvaccinated horses, which have come in contact with the virus will develop symptoms within 1-5 days.
Equine flu is a virus that affects the respiratory system.
Symptoms include fever, coughing, excessive nasal discharge, depression, muscle soreness, anorexia and enlarged nearby lymph nodes.
High mortality, up to 20%, often seen in donkeys, foals and ill or malnourished equines.
Affects equines and humans.
Vaccination is not an ironclad protection but seems to reduce the severity.
Most horses which don't have secondary complications will recover within 1-2 weeks with the cough lasting longer.
The common secondary complications are bacterial pneumonia, heart damage and lung damage.

Thanks to these sites for info:
AVMA
SPC

Equine Influenza Out Of the Bag

2007-08-27T14:12:00.000+10:00

I generally don't bet on horse racing (Melbourne Cup excepted) but right now I'd bet that the rest of the world is glad that Australia is a far away island. Looks like we've got some major trouble stirring here in the form of Equine Influenza. There's all sorts of scare stories floating about at the moment regarding losing the breeding season (we're just going into spring) as horse movements have been halted (no visiting stallions) and the entire Spring Racing Carnival being called off, again due to quarantine.

Here's to hoping the problem was spotted and dealt with early enough!

From the Sydney Morning Herald:
The flu outbreak has shut down the multi-billion dollar racing and breeding industry since Saturday - costing the industry at least $100 million so far.....

.....Almost 300 horses have been quarantined at Warwick's Morgan Park since the weekend after at least four horses at the world cup eventing qualifier showed signs of the horse flu.
The number of horses now showing flu symptoms had blown out to 20, EFA vet Julian Willmore said this afternoon. Spectators and competitors have been banned from leaving the site as authorities move to contain the outbreak.

"I'd expect that [the virus is] very contagious and I wouldn't be surprised if the 250 horses we've got on the ground all became infected and show various signs of infection," Dr Willmore told ABC Radio.....

....So far, in NSW 47 horses have been confirmed as having EI.
Many of the affected horses in NSW are stabled at Centennial Park, close to Randwick Racecourse, which has also been shut due to fears four horses might be infected.....