Rainy Days and Sundays

Local Flavor: Quinn Hatfield Talks Tongue Tacos and Hostess Baseballs...

2009-11-24T18:02:00.000-08:00

Welcome to “Local Flavor,” a new weekly-ish column on Rainy Days and Sundays. Every column will feature a local chef, sommelier or tastemaker talking about his/her favorite local eats. Featured this week is Chef Quinn Hatfield, of the much-lauded Hatfield’s restaurant. Foodies all over town are waiting with baited breath for the opening of the new Hatfield’s location, which takes the place of Red Pearl Kitchen on the corner of Melrose and Highland. According to the chef, he and his wife, business partner and pastry chef Karen will start cooking “friends and family” dinners in late December and are aiming for a January 1, 2010 open date. Needless to say, I can’t wait!

1) Favorite neighborhood joint?

Quinn: I love to walk down to Blue Jam Cafe on Melrose for breakfast. “Kamil's Breakfast” is a favorite race day meal, on days that I have bike races. It is kind of a good luck tradition!

2) Favorite high-end restaurant?

Quinn: My last meal at Providence was really fantastic.

3) Favorite watering hole?

Quinn: Little Irish joint on Fairfax called Tom Bergin's. I love a place that recognizes their customers by putting their name on a Shamrock and pinning it to the wall.

4) Most overrated food trend?

Quinn: Food Trucks! I am not saying that it isn’t possible to get decent food from a truck, but it’s starting to feel like the truck is the concept... not the food they are cooking.

5) Most underrated restaurant?

Quinn: Not sure I could honestly answer this without being insulting to someone... so I will leave it blank.

6) Most embarrassing food indulgence?

Quinn: Hostess Baseball Cupcakes! They are hard to find. White cake with white icing, decorated with red “baseball stitching.” Not to be confused with the orange cake/icing Hostess!

7) Favorite hangover meal?

Quinn: Ricotta Pancakes at BLD! They are amazing! When I sit down they ask me if I want the "regular" which means pancakes and a cappuccino

8) Most memorable meal you've had at an LA restaurant?

Quinn: On our wedding weekend, Karen and I went to Urasawa, with a couple of our chef friends from N.Y.C. It was amazing- and it blew our friends’ minds. One of the chef’s wives wouldn’t eat most of the meal so he and I ate 1.5 portions that night. It was too expensive to let it go to waste!

9) Favorite dive eatery/roach coach/etc?

Quinn: El Chato. It’s a taco truck on the corner of La Brea and Olympic. It’s only there late night, so I only go after work. Cheap little tacos with tongue, head cheese, chorizo... I often meet Jason Travi there after a busy night.

10) Anything you won't eat?

Quinn: As far as trying food, no. I will eat anything. [But] I will say that at some point I crossed a line where most fast food and processed food can’t be a part of my life. I try to be athletic and eat as healthy as I can. I have become a serious ingredient label-reader lately.

My Favorite Hangover Breakfast, Chocolate Cake, Steak and More...

2009-11-19T15:22:00.000-08:00

I was going to write about some of the food I’ve been cooking this week, but sadly my camera needs some TLC (the filter is so bent from being dropped that it cannot be removed, and there are a few pieces of lint conveniently tucked in between the filter and the lens, adding beautiful black specks to every photo I take) and therefore I don’t have any photographic evidence of my cooking conquests for the week.

Seems to me that this is the perfect opportunity to do a list of some sort (I do love me some lists, let me tell you!). Today, I’m featuring the long-winded yet appropriately titled, “Foods that I Generally Love and Where You Can Get the Best of Said Foods” list. I’m a bit brain dead today, so please forgive the literal and lackluster title. Hopefully, you’ll find the content more appealing.

A Great Sandwich

It’s simple, really: Two slices of bread and a number of fillings in the middle does a sandwich make. However, it wrecks my head how difficult it can be to find a good-tasting, well-constructed sandwich. Some sandwiches are tasty, but perhaps the bread is so overly toasted or thick that it scrapes up the roof of one’s mouth, while others may be well-constructed but ill conceived otherwise (example: layering lots of “slick” ingredients on top of each other like roasted peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers and having it all squirt out one side as you take a bite from the other). There are sandwiches so big, taking a bite requires surgical restructuring of one’s jaw. There are others that are too soggy from over mayo-ing or saucing, and some so dry you feel like you’re competing in a Saltine eating contest. Ever try that? Without water, it’s nearly impossible to eat 10 Saltines at once!

One of the most memorable I’ve had was a shrimp po’ boy at the Sandcastle Café & Grill on Saint Simons Island in Georgia. The lightly battered and fried shrimp, still warm from the fryer, sat atop a bed of freshly shredded, cool iceberg lettuce and was coddled between two slices of a chewy/crispy baguette that was lightly brushed on the inside with a tangy house mayo. Two, thin slices of red, ripe tomato added a slight sweetness and balance to the savory notes of the sandwich. The best part? Bite after bite, the sandwich held together beautifully. The photo above was the last bite of one-half of the sandwich, and look! Everything is still in its rightful place. I seriously dream of this sandwich!

The Perfect Pairing of Fruit and Food

I’m a little embarrassed to admit this, but I’ve never been a big fan of fruit in my savory food. Melons wrapped with prosciutto, blazing cherries atop a perfectly good steak, grapes bobbing around in my soup…I do not find pleasure in such things. Sure, I understand the sweet/savory concept, but this is often abused by overzealous chefs or home cooks who take the idea and go fruitloops with it. And also I'm weird.

However, I will occasionally come across a meal that seamlessly incorporates fruit with savory in a manner that is both surprising and pleasing to my palate. Case in point: the bacon-wrapped apples served with a double-cut pork chop at Bar Marmont in West Hollywood. I don’t recall what kind of apples these were, but the fruit had a subdued sweetness and a hearty texture. The bacon was moist and tender, and the salty fat really worked well with the delicate acid of the apples. The combo bite of apple, bacon and pork was devastatingly delicious and left me with an open mind toward other fruit and savory pairings – though I’ve yet to meet one I’ve liked as much!

A Wonderful Piece of Beef

At home, I’m cooking just for myself so I rarely buy beef at the grocery store. The packages almost always contain too much for just one person, and I don’t want to be consuming red meat more than once or twice a week. So when I go out on the weekends, I’m often seeking a beef fix.

As for what cut I prefer, it doesn’t really matter as long as it’s tender and delicious. I adore the simple, inexpensive skirt steak at Malbec in Pasadena. Grilled over an open flame and adorned with a straightforward chimichurri, the steak tastes of juicy, savory animal flesh and earthy charbroiled goodness. Another example of beef done superbly well is the Wagu Beef Carpaccio at Stonyridge Vineyards on Waiheke Island in Auckland, New Zealand (yes, it’s worth the trip!). Gorgeous, crimson slices of rare beef atop a bed of lightly dressed greens, served with a glass of the winery’s finest red? Why, yes – I believe I will partake in such culinary fantasies! You should too.

Rice Pudding

We’ve all had rice pudding that resembles grout filler with bits of dried maggots, but rice pudding doesn’t have to be that awful end to a meal you dreaded as an impressionable, young child. Rice pudding can be dreamy, creamy and the stuff that dessert fairytales are made of, and Chef Josef Centeno (opening his Lazy Ox Canteen next week) understands this better than most mortals.

His rice pudding with caramel and crushed almonds, which he used to serve at the now-irrelevant Lot 1 Café in Echo Park, is a wonderful example of rice pudding gone good. The secret? After making the rice pudding with the usual ingredients (rice, sugar, milk, etc.) he lets it cool, and then folds sweet, whipped cream into the mixture, bringing a rich lightness (<--work with me) to this typically heavy dessert. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this rice pudding makes an appearance on the Lazy Ox menu.

The Hangover Cure Breakfast

Though most of the time I am a fairly responsible adult, I’ve been known to drink a few too many on a Friday or Saturday night. You know how it is: the mood is lively, the conversation is crackin’ and the waitress is taking full advantage of your fuzzy state of mind by opening bottle after bottle of your favorite wine – or at least that’s what you’ll tell your friends later. Before you know it, you’re waking up with a heinous headache and a sour stomach.

No better cure than a greasy breakfast, but which one? My favorite is the typical Irish breakfast, and I’m not talking about the kind that comes in a tidy little bag with a string attached. At Burke's in Drogheda, Ireland, an Irish breakfast consists of a fried egg, two black puddings, one white pudding, two rashers, two sausages, a side of beans and a slice of fried bread. If this doesn’t fix you right up my pained friend, nothing will. Go back to bed and cry yourself to sleep on your huge pillow, OK? P.S. I’ve heard you can get a pretty proper version of this breakfast at Lucky Baldwins in Pasadena and Sierra Madre.

Chocolate Cake

I don’t really have much of a sweet tooth, but I will admit to my weakness for a moist, dense slab of chocolate cake with chocolate frosting. Perhaps it’s because one of my earliest cooking memories was of my sister and me baking Betty Crocker cakes as a child (in a real oven, no EasyBake for us!). Whatever the reason, I occasionally have a hankering for this very basic dessert treat.

The best I’ve ever eaten, and by “the best” I really truly mean the best has got to be the Chocolate Buttermilk Cupcake with Cappuccino Ice Cream at Brooks Restaurant in Ventura. It’s more like a mini bunt cake than a cupcake, and it is utterly lush and loaded with deep, dark chocolate righteousness. Rarely am I in Ventura but this bastion of chocolateness is reason enough to take the two-hour drive up north.

Local Flavor: Chef Albert Aviles Talks Rivera, NomNom and a Distate for Molecular Gastronomy...

2009-11-16T12:14:00.000-08:00

Welcome to “Local Flavor,” a new bi-weekly column on Rainy Days and Sundays. Every column will feature a local chef, sommelier or tastemaker talking about his/her favorite local eats. This week: Albert Aviles, Executive Chef of Corkbar, a casual, California wine-inspired bar/restaurant in downtown Los Angeles. Aviles’ “Test Kitchen Tuesdays,” which features an off-menu, tapas-style dish for a mere $2, is fast becoming a favorite among locals. What SoCal eats inspires this laid-back chef? Let’s see…

1) Favorite neighborhood joint?

Albert: Tinto Tapas Espana on Santa Monica.

2) Favorite high-end restaurant?

Albert: It’s a tie between Rivera and Itacho. Not sure if they are considered high end but they're both good. Rivera was cool experience. Truthfully it was the tequila; they have so many and they are all good! The food was very good and well executed. Chef John is a talented man.

Itacho was a great mistake. My wife and I couldn't get into Angelini Osteria next door, so we walked into Itacho. Very good traditional, simple Japanese food. The kitchen is the size of my shoe, and they put out well executed food, on time and on point.

3) Favorite watering hole?

Albert: The Powerhouse. Good tunes, good peeps.

4) Most overrated food trend?

Albert: All this molecular gastronomy...all these powders, vapors and foams are way too much. I respect it, but don't really get it. If I order a Caesar salad, that’s what I want, not 80 things on a plate which I have to eat at the same time, then chase it with Pop Rocks, and then drink a crazy drink which makes it taste like a Caesar salad.

5) Most underrated restaurant?

Albert: I’m not sure if Cube is underrated, but I know one thing, it’s fucking good! People, go eat at Cube on La Brea!

6) Most embarrassing food indulgence?

Albert: Hmmmmm? Haribo Cola Bottles, I can eat those all day everyday, or sour cherry Jelly Bellys.

7) Favorite hangover meal?

Albert: Fucking tacos from Tacos Mexico.

8) Most memorable meal you’ve had at an LA restaurant?

Albert: Tinto, cause it's small, dark and the bar is where it's at! The bartenders are cool as hell and straight from Spain. We had the Gamas, Jamon iberico, Duo de Tortillas, Patatas, Croquettes de Jamon, Stuffed Piquillo peppers with seasoned beef, and washed it all down with a big pitcher of sangria. My kick-ass wife and I love this place because it's really good, simple Spanish food. Nothing complicated. Very traditional.

9) Favorite dive eatery/roach coach/etc?

Albert: NomNom truck kicks ass! Twitter that shit!

10) Anything you won’t eat?

Albert: Put in front of me and I’ll eat it!

Stay tuned for the next “Local Flavor,” which will feature Chef Quinn Hatfield of Hatfield's restaurant. Interested in being featured? Email me at clare@clareiswriting.com

The Hostesses with the Mostesses....

2009-11-12T14:12:00.000-08:00

Jaden, the guest of honor, shows off some caviar

A good party has to have a few essentials: Great food, fabulous drinks, a good mix of guests and some form of entertainment. And I do believe that nobody knows this better than Diane and Todd, who are getting as well-known for their magnificent parties as they are for their much-beloved blog, White on Rice Couple.

A beautiful evening on the patio in downtown LA

Case in point: The celebratory party for Jaden Hair and her new cookbook, The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook. The party started off on the gorgeous patio of Diane and Todd’s downtown loft, and featured Pama Liqueur cocktails that were mixed up by Jaden herself. It was the perfect way to unwind from the day, mingle with the guests (who were mostly food journalists) and get to know each other a little bit. The hosts served up Jaden’s chicken eggrolls by the dozen along with everybody’s party favorite, blinis with caviar and crème fraiche.

Once inside the loft, we were treated to a sake tasting by expert sake expert from Vine Connections. Each of the five cold sakes had its own unique flavor and texture and story; it was both educational and entertaining (and delicious!). I drink cold sake with sushi all the time, but admittedly don’t know much about how it's made or how the process differs from sake to sake. Diane and Todd made an impressive array of food from Jaden’s cookbook, including noodle salad with Asian pesto, coconut shrimp, fried rice with lovely, fatty Chinese sausage (what's not to love?) and sweet and savory lychee meatballs. All of the food paired nicely with the sakes.

The sake expert

Later Jaden oversaw a raffle for prizes ranging from her cookbook to a $100 gift certificate from Chefs Catalog. To my absolute surprise, I won the gift certificate?!?! I never, ever win anything (OK, I did win a stuffed dog at a kid’s bingo game about 30 years go). The party, meeting Jaden (and her adorable father) and hanging out with Diane, Todd and other food peeps like Eddie (who also has a very cool new book out), Betty, Rene, Matt and Brook would have been enough as it was so much fun and truly a great evening altogether.

Todd and Diane with their incredibly cool tenant, who let us all party in his loft for the night!

Thanks to Jaden and White on Rice Couple for a wonderful night!

Local Flavor: Ludo and Krissy Lefebvre Talk Urasawa, Sprinkles and...KFC?

2009-11-06T11:37:00.000-08:00

Ludo & Krissy - photo credit: Jo Stougaard

Welcome to “Local Flavor,” a new bi-weekly column on Rainy Days and Sundays. Every column will feature a local chef, sommelier or tastemaker talking about his/her local favorite eats. This week: Chef Ludovic Lefebvre and his business partner and wife, Kristine, who are currently working on the next incarnation of their roving restaurant LudoBites (coming to Royal/T Café in Culver City for 13 days in December), sit down and share their favorites (and not-so-favorites) from the SoCal food scene.

1) Favorite neighborhood joint?

Ludo: Kaya Sushi in El Segundo. When we lived in Venice we used to go to the location in Marina del Rey all the time. I love Asian food and they have a great mix of Japanese and Korean.

Krissy: I agree with Ludo on Kaya, it is definitely a favorite. I LOVE the Japchae noodles. Although it is a bit further away (closer to my old neighborhood), Typhoon is still my ultimate favorite neighborhood joint.

2) Favorite high-end restaurant?

Ludo: I have not been to a high-end restaurant since I returned from Las Vegas. I had many great high end meals in Vegas, but now back in LA I mostly focus on exploring new different cuisines. I am always looking for new inspiration. If I had to pick a high-end restaurant it would be Urasawa, and I loved my meals at Hatfield's.

Krissy: Unlike Ludo, I have a really hard time going to high end restaurants. Ludo is simply happy to have someone else cook for him, but I can't help myself and compare every meal to his cooking. I am so spoiled. I have eaten probably 100+ meals at L'Orangerie and Bastide. How do I ever enjoy anything else? My favorite high-end restaurant is definitely my own kitchen when Ludo is cooking. Nothing tops it.

3) Favorite watering hole?

Ludo: We really don't just go out to drink. If we are going to meet friends for a drink and want to stay in Manhattan Beach, it would probably be at Shade, although it is not what I would consider a "watering hole." In France there is always a great pub on the corner, but it is difficult in LA because you have to drive everywhere.

Krissy: Shade is a watering hole for cougars. I do enjoy the entertainment, although you feel the claws the minute you walk in the door.

4) Most overrated food trend?

Ludo: Cupcakes. I don't understand this trend. I did not even know what a cupcake was until Sprinkles came to town; we don't have these in France. I think the idea of a cupcake is great, a small little sweet, but I have not been impressed by any of the cupcake companies and surely not enough to stand in line for hours. They all seem dry. The one time I have been impressed by a "cupcake" type treat was at Kiss My Bundt. Their cakes are so moist and delicious; I would take them over a cupcake any day.

Krissy: Hmmm, bacon??? Did I really say that? I love bacon but it is all about bacon. :)

5) Most underrated restaurant?

Kristine: Neither of us had an answer for this one - sorry.

6) Most embarrassing food indulgence?

Ludo: I am never embarrassed about eating.

Krissy: Where do I start? I am not embarrassed about what I eat, but there are definitely some significant swings in my diet. When Ludo is home it’s all about "fresh" and "homemade.” The minute he goes out of town I fall back to my comfort zone: frozen pizza, PF Changs and by far my favorite indulgence - salami, whipped cream cheese, wheat thins and apple slices, followed by sea salt caramel - YUMMMMM!

7) Favorite hangover meal?

Ludo: Greasy burger, fries and Coca-Cola.

Krissy: Pretty much same as Ludo, but I usually add in a homemade vanilla malted milk shake.

8) Most memorable meal you’ve had at an LA restaurant?

Ludo: Urasawa. Every dish was so fresh and creative and the ingredients were the top top. I was wondering how many courses there would be and did not realize that I had to surrender to Urasawa. I could have eaten for days just to experience each creation but I finally gave up after about 3 hours.

Krissy: This one is easy. The first time I ever at L'Orangerie. It all started with an amuse bouche. Good thing I did not know that every table got this little treat from chef. I thought it was all for me and it allowed me to create the perfect romance in my head, despite the fact I was on a date. Love is funny thing.

9) Favorite dive eatery/roach coach/etc?

Ludo: El Tarasco. Great after-surf food and is a close second for favorite hangover food.

Krissy: Does not fall into a "dive" but it is definitely KFC. I LOVE the extra crispy snackers.

10) Anything you won’t eat?

Ludo: Nope. It is my job to try everything. I prefer not to, but sometimes I even give in to bad food.

Krissy: Salad. I know it sounds crazy, but it just grosses me out.

Stay tuned for more “Local Flavor,” coming to you every two weeks. Interested in being featured? Email me at clare@clareiswriting.com

That Pork Used to be A Pig, Ya Know...

2009-11-04T12:57:00.000-08:00

Gordon Ramsay photo courtesy of the Mail Online

There’s been a lot of talk lately on the topic of whether or not we, as humans, should eat meat. About a month ago, the New York Times published a frightening article about one woman’s health crisis after consuming tainted hamburger meat, and of course there’s Jonathan Safran Foer’s recently published and much-ballyhooed book, Eating Animals, which takes a firm stand against factory farming and makes a strong case for vegetarianism.

I eat meat, and I have no plans to give that up. I choose free-range, cruelty-free meat, which costs more but is ultimately better tasting, better for the environment and for the animals themselves. In my mind, an animal that’s had a happy life tastes better (I realize many vegetarians will disagree with me on this one!).

One chef who seems to be putting his money where is mouth is on the subject is Gordon Ramsay. Don’t get me wrong: Ramsay, with his piping-hot temper and inability to articulate himself without the use of the word “f*ck” every five seconds isn’t exactly the most beloved chef of our time. There have been allegations of an affair and other personal and professional missteps. Frankly, I could give a toss about those things. What I do admire about him is that on his BBC show – appropriately titled “The F Word” – Ramsay is showing the world where his food comes from, and isn’t afraid to get personally involved with it.

Two seasons ago, Ramsay decided to raise two Berkshire pigs in his own backyard. He took his entire family (which includes four children, all under the age of 10) to a free-range pig farm, and they picked out two pigs to take home. From the start, he told his children that these pigs were for food, and he was careful to constantly remind them (and himself) of this point. But part of being a good farmer requires tender, loving care of your flock, and week after week the cameras captured Ramsay and his family playing with, feeding and washing the growing pigs. There were some poignant moments; during one unusually hot day in England, Ramsay’s kids created a big mud pit for their piggies, and both kids and pigs squealed with delight as they rolled around in the cool sludge.

Courtesy of The F Word, BBC

As D Day grew nearer, viewers could see that the idea of slaughtering his pigs was starting to affect this notoriously hard chef. When Ramsay and his wife (the kids were left at home) delivered the pigs to the local slaughterhouse, they both suited up and readied themselves to witness the killing of their pigs. Though they chose a clean, small-operation, humane slaughterhouse, it was obviously tough for them to watch. With one, quick volt of electricity, the pig went into immediate shock and its throat was slit. The entire process took about 15 seconds. The bottom line? These pigs had a good, happy life, and were taken quickly and relatively painlessly. They were served at Ramsay’s restaurant, Claridges, and fed a good number of people.

Last season, Ramsay had his correspondent, the insanely hilarious and wildly talented Brit journalist Janet Street-Porter, raise two veal calves at her country home in England. Her personal experience revealed that veal calves do not have to be raised in tiny cages and can produce high-quality, tasty meat and be free range and organic – a major revelation for me (and I thought I knew everything, ha!). Again, viewers were taken through every step of the process, from the calves being brought to Street-Porter’s home to their eventual slaughter (which Street-Porter forced herself to witness up close).

Janet Street-Porter and her calf, courtesy of The F Word, BBC

As the viewer, it was difficult to watch the deaths of these animals, but I don’t live in a bubble, and understand that the meat I buy at Whole Foods wasn’t born in a Styrofoam package wrapped in plastic. Though this may seem obvious, I think it’s important for us to actually see where our meat comes from, and to understand the benefits of careful, free-range farming both to the animals and to us humans.

I commend Gordon Ramsay for providing this insight to millions of people who wouldn’t otherwise have the opportunity to experience this phenomenon personally.

Catch “The F Word” on BBC America – check your local listings

Of Gumption and Gumbo

2009-11-02T15:13:00.000-08:00

It's undeniable: There's just something special about New Orleans. Even before the will of its people was tested by "The Storm," as locals call it, even before being completely abandoned by its government, and nearly forgotten after the other storm (the one of the media variety) died down, it was something else. And after all that? To say that the hardships endured by this city and its loyal residents brought out a kind of character and might and determination that us outsiders didn't think existed would be an understatement.

I visited New Orleans recently, for the first time, and was fortunate enough to see the kind of resolve and optimism I'd heard so much about from just about everyone who's been there post-Katrina. Just as the city was starting to see the light at the end of the hurricane's barrel, the recession hit - because, you know, sometimes life just kicks you when you're down. This summer, according to many chefs and waiters I spoke to, was one of the worst. Dining rooms were empty, and even Bourbon Street remained relatively quiet.

But when I was there a couple of weeks ago, the city was bustling, and business was starting to pick up. As I walked through the French Quarter with my friend Kendall, a food writer born and raised in New Orleans, I could feel a buzz in the air. The sun was shining, street musicians tooted their horns and clapped their hands in celebration and the restaurants were spilling over with customers. In Jackson Square, we saw a flurry of brides in several separate weddings going on at the same hour on the same day. When we ran into a shop owner that Kendall knows, he proclaimed that the worst was over. New Orleans had got its groove back, and they’d beaten this recession just as they had beaten back all the other attempts at keeping this city down.

God only knows they’d been trying their damndest to weather the economic tempest of the last year. Restaurants tried out special prix fixe dinners and weeknight discounts, and hotels rolled out unbelievable deals to tourists. But what I think got New Orleans through this most recent hurdle was something that seems to be pretty easy to find among the folks around here: Gumption. Everyone I met, from the fast-talking Chef Anthony Spizale of the Rib Room to the legendary Dickie Brennan (of the famed Brennan family of restaurateurs), there was never a question or a doubt that they and their beloved city would rise again, and, with their sleeves rolled up and chests heaved forward, they did whatever it took as they always had.

The excitement and renewed sense of vigor is most apparent in the food. Spizale excitedly talked about all the new specials he’s been trying lately, like his well-received “Fried Chicken Tuesdays.” At Chef John Besh’s brand-new Domenica restaurant, the good ol’ Southern boy is cooking up spectacular Italian dishes with a local flair like Black Pepper Fettuccine with Oysters, Saffron and Cream. And Sal, of the famed P&J Oyster Company, eagerly showed off the first official P&J cookbook that’s coming out in a few weeks.

No one is holding back, no sir. That’s gumption for ya.

For my full story on Southern Louisiana's food culture, check out the Spring 2010 issue of Intermezzo magazine.

Bring on the Cold! Spicy Thai Curry Soup

2009-10-28T09:52:00.000-07:00

I love cold weather, probably because it's so rare here in Los Angeles. While my friends back east and on the other side of the pond envy our near perfect, SoCal weather, I find myself craving cold, crisp breezes and, occasionally, bitter, freezing rainstorms. Do you know how depressing it is to wake up every Christmas morning to 82-degree warmth and blue, cloudless skies? Just once, I want to open my presents wrapped in a cozy, velvet robe in front of a roaring fireplace while the weather outside is frightful.

Needless to say, I take full advantage of the rare break we get from the constant sunny delight that is LA weather. Today is a true, crisp fall day; I actually had to wear a sweatshirt with a hood (I utilized the hood!!) on my morning walk to the gym, and I was still a bit chilly. To celebrate, I made a pot of comforting spicy Thai curry vegetable soup, because there's just nothing better than cozying up to a bowl of hot soup on a cold (ok, cool) day.
Spicy Thai Curry Vegetable Soup
2 teaspoons of olive oil

1 yellow onion, large dice

1 red bell pepper, large dice

2 carrots, large dice

2 cups green beans, cut into medium pieces

3 tablespoons of Thai red curry paste

4 cups of chicken stock

1 14 oz can of lite coconut milk

1.5 tablespoons of fish sauce

4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons of chopped fresh basil
Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, red bell pepper and carrots and saute for about 5 minutes or until onion starts to soften. Add green beans and cook for another 2 minutes. Add curry paste and coat the vegetables with it without burning the paste. Add the stock and coconut milk and bring it to a boil. Add the fish sauce and stir in cilantro. Pour into bowls. Top each soup bowl with basil. Serve as is, or add cooked white or brown rice for a complete meal!

Happy 100th Birthday to my Obaachan!

2009-10-15T19:27:00.001-07:00

My sister and me with Obaachan and Ojiisan in 1987

My Obaachan (grandmother) was born on October 16, 1909 and is 100 years old tomorrow, which is pretty amazing. She lives in Osaka, Japan, where she’s lived the majority of her life. She was married to my Ojiisan (grandfather) for 73 years before his death at the age of 95 in 1998, and has survived two of her five children. She lived in the same rented house for about 50 years, and now lives in a home close to her old neighborhood. Though she’s quite frail and has become somewhat forgetful in her old age, she still loves to eat and still manages her chopsticks very well – especially when eating her favorite salty black seaweed condiment, which she always eats with her rice.

Obaachan, 2008

Though I spent most of my life in the United States, I have great memories our summer visits to Obaachan and Ojiisan in Japan. I remember how much they spoiled us, especially Obaachan, because she didn’t really get to see my sister and I that often. I laugh when I think about the time that, after drinking a bottle of Kirin Lemon soda and telling her how much we liked it, she had a case of the stuff delivered to her house so that we could have as much of it as we wanted. Whenever we were at her house, she’d make sure to stock up on cookies and other treats.

I also recall how she would always have a nice sushi lunch delivered to her house whenever we’d visit, and how she took us to her local food arcade to show us off to her merchant friends. If we so much as looked at something, she’d ask if we wanted it and try to buy it for us (it got to a point where my parents warned us about not taking advantage of this!). She gave us little envelopes of money but was always discreet about it so that our Japanese cousins wouldn’t get jealous or feel left out. My grandparents weren't wealthy, but they were always generous. Obaachan had a cabinet underneath the staircase where she housed many unopened presents that were given to her, and in turn give them to us or her friends.

Obaachan always gifted us with one nice piece of jewelry on our visits, whether it was a pair of pearl earrings or a gold ring. She had impeccable taste and to this day I still have all of the beautiful jewelry she gave me. Obaachan always told my sister and I how pretty we were, and how young we looked, and would stroke our hands and talk about what pretty skin we had; she’d hold her tiny, wrinkled hand next to ours and say, “Look how much younger your hand looks!” Pretty funny since she’s 64 years older than we are!

Though she hasn’t a clue what the Internet is, and probably doesn’t even know what a computer is, I wanted to dedicate this day to my Obaachan on her 100th birthday. I’m sorry to say that I won’t be with her to celebrate, but my parents are going to see her next week and I look forward to seeing the photos of her intimate birthday dinner celebration. Otanjou-bi Omedetou Gozaimasu Obaachan!

Best Deal in Town: Drago Centro Bar Menu

2009-10-14T14:20:00.001-07:00

Things I love about happy hour: Catching up with friends after work. Good deals on drinks and food.

Things I don’t love about happy hour: An array of cheap, fried foods. Good deals on bad drinks. Loud crowds, with lots of “woo-hooing” going on (see the Yard House). The very small window of opportunity (5 p.m. – 7 p.m.) for the good deals.

The reasons above are why I am utterly in love with Drago Centro’s bar menu. The bar menu is pretty damn cheap, and includes some good wines for $5-$6 a glass, German beers for $4 a glass and a variety of specialty cocktails at $5. Wine choices like the Quattro Mani Montepulciano, Abruzzo, a great medium-bodied red with a hint of fruit, and cocktail selections like the Passione 5 (vodka, lychee, fresh peach) are always a hit with my friends and me, and at five bucks a pop, it’s a great deal as well.

Chef Celestino’s bar food menu is even more impressive, with tasty shareable small plates like the la bruschetta di mare (marinated anchovies, onions, tomato on crostini), due kobe hamburgers and the la pizza ai gamberi (shrimp, corn, mozzarella pizza on a very thin crust). Most items are under $5, with a few priced $7 - $9 (still very reasonable). Though the bar menu is served only in the bar area, you can order items off the restaurant menu at the bar if you prefer.

I like Drago Centro’s bar space because it’s laid-back and elegant without being fussy or snooty. There is a plasma television for those who want to catch whatever game is on but it’s never blaring or intrusive. There are lovely cheesy breadsticks along the long, marble table of the bar area and the service, while it can be a bit slow at times (typically all orders in this area is handled by the bartender, so it’s understandable), it’s totally worth the wait.

On a recent visit, my friend Steve and I each had three drinks (wine for me, cocktails for him), and shared three plates. Our total? $45 total, plus tax. What a steal! Oh, and this menu is available during restaurant hours - not just happy hour.

Comfort Food: Korokke

2009-10-12T11:46:00.000-07:00

In Japan, everyone LOVES korokke. This little fried, panko-crusted potato patty is served at road-side shacks, fast food stands and casual restaurants all over the country. There's the plain variety (just mashed potato innards with panko crust exterior), and then there are the variations including curry, beef, vegetable, cheese, corn and cream korokke, which is made with a soft cream filling. Whenever I'm back in Japan, I always treat myself to this wildly popular snack. Luckily, Korokke is relatively easy to make at home, and you can add whatever you'd like to the mashed potato base.

Curry Korokke
Makes 4

1 teaspoon canola oil
1/2 white onion, diced
2 large Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into large cubes
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup white flour
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups panko breadcrumbs
3 cups of vegetable oil (for frying).

Boil the potato cubes in salted water until cooked. While waiting for potatoes, heat the canola oil in a saute pan and cook the onions until translucent. Set aside.

Drain the potatoes. In a mixer, or in a bowl using a hand masher, mix the potatoes, onions, heavy cream, curry powder, salt and pepper together. Be careful not to overmix as the potatoes will get gummy. Put mixture into the refrigerator to cool for one hour.

After the potato mixture has cooled, take a 1/2 cup of the mixture and form it into a flat patty using your hands. Coat the patty in the flour, then egg mixture, then panko. Repeat until you have four patties made. Heat the oil in a frying pan to 350 degrees. Carefully place the panko in the oil, frying for about 1 minute on each side or until golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on a paper towel.

Serve with tonkatsu sauce, or your favorite condiment, or just eat plain!

Coming Soon: Centeno's Lazy Ox

2009-10-08T14:37:00.000-07:00

“Where the heck is Josef Centeno?”

It’s a question I hear occasionally in foodie circles. The celebrated chef, who had successful stints at Meson G and Opus, spent about a minute at Lot 1 in Echo Park before disappearing for a while. He then popped up as a consulting chef at Pasadena’s Bar Celona, and successfully transformed a mediocre menu into something pretty special. Well, come the end of November (fingers crossed) Centeno will open his much-anticipated Lazy Ox Canteen in the Little Tokyo district of Los Angeles. So far, so good: he’ll have all required permits by the end of this month.

Today, he gave me a preview of both the space and his menu.

Clearly there’s still a lot that needs to be done, but the space is starting to come together. The main dining room will feature a completely open kitchen with a wood stone oven. The bar area, which is situated directly next to the kitchen space, will seat 11 and offer an array of beers on tap and in bottles, and a good assortment of wine. In a nod to the district in which the restaurant resides, Centeno will also offer sparkling sake and a number of small-brew Japanese beers. Though he’s not sure it’ll make it on the final list, he talked about a Japanese oyster beer he tried the other day and liked.

The dining room will have two, 8-foot communal tables as well as banquettes and tables that will seat a total of 58 indoors, with patio tables that will accommodate an additional 18 seats. Business partner and restaurateur Michael Cardenas is handling the interior design, which will be “lots of wood, earth tones and concrete floors,” said Centeno.

As for the food, it will reflect Centeno’s diverse tastes. There will be a “daily specials” blackboard, with items like Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Biscuits & Bacon Gravy, Whole Boiled Dungeness Crab with Louis Dressing & Cucumber Salad, and Confit Duck Leg with Cocoa Picada, Lentils & Quince. There will also be a blackboard dedicated to gastropub fare like cheeses, cured meats and terrines, Centeno’s signature bacos and burgers. A note regarding the burgers: The chef will be grinding his own meat and baking his own burger buns, and announced that after much effort, he’s finally got the buns right. In fact, he plans to bake all of the restaurant’s bread in-house.

The a la carte menu consists of shared plates, salads, vegetables, meats and pastas, and is a mix of classic Centeno favorites (Sashimi of Yellowtail with Castelvetrano Olives, Pomegranate & Fuyu Persimmon and Hand-torn Pasta with Sunny Side Egg, Brown Butter & Citrus Vinegar) and challenging new dishes like House Made Merguez Sausage with Olive Oil Crushed Potato, Pickled Onion & Parsley Salad and Charred Octopus with Pickled Shallots, Corona Beans & Garlic Rapini. This menu will change daily or weekly. Because he doesn’t already have enough to do, Centeno is also handling the desserts. Right now he’s got a pistachio tart, blood orange flan, chilled rice pudding, and chocolate torchon – among others - on his tentative dessert menu.

Though in the beginning, Lazy Ox will open for dinner only, Centeno eventually plans to roll out a daily brunch menu (8 a.m. – 3 p.m., tentatively). A sample brunch menu he shared includes sweet dishes like the Fat Waffle with Whipped Butter & Stone fruit Marmalade and Brioche French Toast with Apple-Licorice Butter, plus a number of savory items including his well-known coddled egg with cream of wheat, the Breakfast Baco (chorizo, eggs, salsa) and an oyster po’boy with homemade Sriracha aioli.

Hungry yet?

The Lazy Ox Canteen is scheduled to open November 23rd. Parking is available in the lot at the corner of 2nd and San Pedro, for $4 after 4 p.m. and $2 on weekends.

235 S. San Pedro (between 2nd and 3rd)
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Much Ado About Dublin

2009-10-07T08:24:00.000-07:00

Lamb with a vegetable tart at the famed Patrick Guilbaud restaurant
I'm currently writing a feature on a foodie few days in Dublin, Ireland, so I can't write too much about it here. But here are some photos that capture the wonderful time I had in this most majestic city. Enjoy!

A proper scone with jam and clotted cream at the Merrion Hotel. Starbucks "scones" are more like gigantic, doughy hockey pucks compared to these light, buttery confections!

Gorgeous teacakes inspired by real works of art at the Merrion Hotel.

Real Irish brown bread at the Cellar Restaurant. The texture is a bit crumbly on the inside, which I've heard is a good thing. It was hearty and delicious.

The architecture around Dublin is really something to see. There are modern structures and buildings that are hundreds of years old, like this one. I highly recommend the bus tour - it's a great way to get an overview of the city before taking it on by foot.

Ahhhhh - a good, strong cup of tea with milk! I drank many, many cups of tea during my trip. "Want a cup of tea?" is probably one of the most commonly asked questions in Ireland.

The famed Grafton Street, the shopping/dining hub of Central Dublin. It's always bustling with activity and makes for fantastic people watching!

Antique Guinness bottles at the Guinness factory in Dublin. No visit to Dublin would be complete without a tour (you can explore it on your own or do a guided tour), which ends with a free pint of Guinness!

An Offal Good Time: St. John, London

2009-10-03T11:21:00.001-07:00

Before I embark on a trip, I always ask my foodie friends, bloggers and local chefs where I should eat at any given destination. The response when I inquired about London was overwhelming; there were numerous one-off recommendations for a variety of Indian restaurants, fish and chip shops, weekend farmer’s markets and particular, must-have dishes (English breakfast, Chocolate Flake, a “real” cup of tea, etc.). With only 48 hours in the city, I felt overwhelmed with choices. But one restaurant garnered multiple recs, including from Jonathan Gold himself: St. John.

St. John restaurant is the creation of Chef Fergus Henderson, known for his use of offal (nose-to-tail dining, as they say). With no formal training, Henderson learned how to cook from his mother, and the result is unfussy, simple but wildly flavorful and inventive dishes.

The interior of the restaurant was simple: white walls, plain wooden tables and chairs and wait staff dressed in basic white shirts and black pants. The menu, which changes almost daily, offered a head-scratching array of selections (“Grilled Puffball with Green Sauce” and “Stinking Bishop & Potatoes” were particularly odd-sounding). Our waitress kindly explained that Puffball is a type of mushroom that puffs up and emits a brown dust-like cloud when it ripens, and that Stinking Bishop is actually a kind of smelly cheese. While both sounded appealing (hey, we like that kind of thing!), I went with the classic Roasted Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad, and Alice got the Beetroot, Boiled Egg & Anchovy while Graham chose the Gloucester Old Spot & Celeriac (translation: thin slices of a particular breed of pig served with a celery-root slaw).

All the starters were excellent, particularly Graham’s Old Spot. The slices of pork were tender and lean, and framed with a thick thread of tasty fat. The marrow, which I spread on toast, glistened of fatty goodness and played well with the lemony parsley salad. The boiled eggs’ bright orange/yellow yolks were creamy and rich, the perfect compliment to the fresh beetroot and salty anchovy.

Though I usually balance a rich starter with a light entree, there are no light entrees here and that was just fine with me. We reasoned that we’d need the hearty fare to combat the London chill that was descending on the evening…or something like that. I selected the Smoked Eel with Rashers and Mashed Potatoes. Now I’ve only ever had eel Japanese-style, which is heavily marinated and typically served over rice in a bowl or as sushi nigiri (both which I LOVE). But this was entirely different: the eel had a reddish color and was thick and juicy, not at all when I’d expect from a smoked fish. The flesh was so tender it separated with just a touch of the fork – lush, velvety, fantastic. I have never seen eel like this on a menu in the states, but if anyone knows where I can get this, please leave a comment with the pertinent info! I must, MUST have this again.

Alice got the Grouse, which is a type of bird resembles a cross between a chicken and a rooster, and Graham got the Faggots & Butterbeans (another name that begs explanation). A faggot is a traditional dish in the UK and is a meatball made from meat off-cuts and offal, especially pork (heart, liver, fatty belly meat, bacon, etc.). Both gave their dishes a major thumbs-up. Normally when trying new foods I’m all for sharing, but I didn’t want to give up more than one bite of my eel – it was that good. Besides, they live in London and I don’t, so I felt my stinginess was justified!

Though we were pretty much bursting at the seams, we could not leave without dessert, and the one that stood out as a must-eat was the spiced fruit loaf with warm butterscotch sauce and ice cream. It was sweet, tangy and absolutely sinful, and the perfect end to such a sumptuous meal.

Thanks to everyone who insisted I try this remarkable restaurant. It was truly the highlight of my short time in London, and the eel was perhaps the best meal of my entire three-week trip.

Circle of Friends

2009-09-27T12:57:00.000-07:00

Sinead

I went to college in San Francisco, a relatively expensive city for a starving student. As there was no way to afford my own apartment, I chose to rent a room in a house with a half-dozen other people. On moving day, as I was carrying my boxes up the stairs of my new living quarters, I met an Irish couple that was also moving in that day. Little did I know then that my new roommates and their gang of Irish friends (all of whom lived in our neighborhood and were there for a two-year stay) would become life-long friends.

A night out at the pub with the family

Sinead Roche, one-half of the couple, worked as a nanny and I was a college student. She was from the countryside in Ireland and I hailed from Los Angeles. Though on the surface we didn’t have much in common, we became fast friends. We’d sit around our dining room table drinking white zinfandel out of a box and chain-smoking Marlborough Lights, stock our cabinets with stolen pint glasses from the local pubs and trade stories from our childhoods. She often talked about her mom Nancy, a real salt-of-the-earth woman who one minute would be chopping down a dead tree in the yard and cooking up a proper fried breakfast the next. She spoke of how her father, Niall, could be found at the pub every evening after dinner, laughing over a few pints with his buddies. She talked about her two brothers and four sisters, all of whom grew up in a small farmhouse and beat the crap out of each other as kids but had grown into a tight-knit bunch as adults. I had vivid pictures in my mind from her stories, envisioning a big family – perhaps a warped Irish version of the Von Trapps, sans the singing bit – living together in a stone cottage somewhere in the middle of a big green field in Ireland.

A few of the Irish from the San Francisco days

Over the years, I’ve met all of Sinead’s siblings: a couple of sisters came to stay with us in San Francisco for a month; the other two joined Sinead and her new boyfriend Trevor for a trip to Los Angeles to visit me a few years back. I finally met the brothers last St. Patrick’s Day, during an alcohol-fueled few days in Chicago. Just as it had been with Sinead, my friendships with her siblings were easy and formed quickly.

Dinner at Sinead's house - I cooked that night!

So as Sinead and Trevor drove me down the narrow road toward her parents house in Ireland last week, I felt like things were coming full circle. Twelve years after meeting Sinead, I was finally coming to her part of the world. The visit did not disappoint. Nancy, the heart and soul of the Roche family, was every bit the hard-working, no-nonsense woman I’d imagined her to be. Every morning she cooked breakfast for me, which included a mix of rashers (Irish bacon), sausages, brown bread and eggs. I got to experience her weeknight dinners, which has been the following for countless years:

Monday: Pot roast and potatoes
Tuesday: Irish bacon and cabbage
Wednesday: Spaghetti Bolognese
Thursday: Whatever’s In the Fridge
Friday: Fish and Chips

Wednesday is Spaghetti Bolognese!

Though we didn’t eat in every night, I was lucky enough to have the pot roast and potatoes, and the spaghetti Bolognese – both excellent. When Nancy wasn’t cooking, she was cleaning or reading the paper or walking around the yard checking on things or asking me if I wanted a cup of tea and some biscuits. She’s a busybody of the best kind, always making sure everyone has what they need, but also taking time for herself. Every Saturday morning, after doing the shopping at the market, Nancy gets her hair done at the salon, and then goes for a salad sandwich and tea at the café across the way. You can set your watch by it.

Nancy

Niall, too, has somewhat of a routine. Nearly every night after dinner, he’ll drive to the local pitch ‘n putt to collect money from the customers trying to get away with not paying for their games. He then heads to the pub. Though he eats dinner at the house most of the time, on Wednesdays he’ll go get fish and chips as he “despises” tomatoes and therefore will not eat the Spaghetti Bolognese. He is an avid fan of his son’s Gaelic football team and has the team flags on his car to prove it (note: GO MATTOCK RANGERS!). He always let me know that if I needed a ride into town, he’d be happy to take me. When Trevor, who was driving me to meet a friend, got pulled over and had his car towed (some Irish road tax thing – don’t ask!), Niall raced over and picked us both up and took us to our destinations.

Niall

Aoife

Though we were only a 15 minute drive from the main town of Drogheda (which happens to be Ireland’s largest town that is not officially a city), we spent a good deal of time at the house. Finding ways to entertain ourselves in the country was actually quite easy. One day, Sinead, her mom, Trevor and I spent a good hour taking photos of an Ernie (as in Bert & Ernie) doll in various compromising positions in brother Earnan’s car. Why? Earnan had asked me to take some pics of his car, as he wanted to sell it. Little did he know that, with this simple project, he provided us with an hour of sheer entertainment. Sinead’s mom even contributed by art-directing the various positions of the Ernie doll, bringing out the Scotch tape so that we could stick him to the steering wheel or prop him on the car door. Trevor even played model and struck a few – ahem – interesting poses with the car.

Earnan and Trevor, always messin!

Drogheda alleyway

My favorite part of the visit was just sitting around their living room with the family after dinner. Sometimes Sinead’s cousins or uncles or aunts, who all live in the area, would pop by for a cup of tea and gossip after dinner, so there would be 10 conversations going at once with the television blaring in the foreground. It was LOUD. This is life in the Roche house. Earnan told me about how he’s learned to tune everyone out, because growing up in a house with seven kids will teach you such skills. It wasn’t unusual to see him slouching down on the couch, eyes fixated on the television in his own, zen-like state.

Poor Ernie!

Trevor, doing his best car model pose

I didn’t mind the noise, and actually kind of fell in love with it. Much of the conversation, especially with us “kids” would involve hurling insults and/or making fun of each other. The Irish sense of humor is no-holds-barred, and no one ever gets offended. You just have to be able to give it back and hold your own, and I’m pretty sure I managed to do that. Telling someone to “feck off” became a pretty natural response for me, and it was always met with a hearty laugh or a clever retort.

A night out at Fitzpatrick's Restaurant

Needless to say, I had a wonderful time with the Roches and miss them already. Being in their company, it was easy to forget about all the meaningless drivel that sometimes preoccupies life here in Los Angeles (celebrity gossip, reality television, etc.). I am grateful that they took the time to host me during my visit. Thanks Nancy, Niall, Earnan, Aoife, Trevor and most of all to my wonderful and life-long friend Sinead!

When Irish Eyes are Smiling

2009-09-23T02:23:00.000-07:00

Been terrible about posting because I am still traveling. Last day in Ireland today, so I'll hold you over with some photos and promise proper posts when I return. It's been a whirlwind of fun, alcohol and adventure! More soon...

Guinness, the national drink. I have to say that I am not crazy about the dark stuff, but I did drink some as it would be blasphemous not to while here.

Sinead, who I met when we moved into the same house while I was in college in San Francisco. We've been friends for 12 years now!

Steak and Guinness pie, a real typical Irish meal. It's heavy but very good - real stick-to-your-ribs type fare!

Part of the Roche family, who I had the pleasure of hanging out with while here in Broomfield. A rowdy and fun bunch.

Off on the high seas...

2009-09-09T08:34:00.000-07:00

I'm writing you from the Queen Mary 2, which is now somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean. We left NYC yesterday and will be in England in 5 more days. I won't blog much from here I will as soon as I return in a couple of weeks (staying in the UK for a bit). Above is a photo of these delicious canapes that were waiting for me in my cabin when I arrived. This ain't no Princess cruise, it's the QM2, and they sure know how to sail in style! More soon!

A Sweet Token of My Appreciation

2009-09-03T10:36:00.000-07:00

As most of you know, the mountains of Los Angeles have been ablaze for the last several days, and the worst is not over. Here in Pasadena, the fires have already destroyed thousands of acres, and the air - even down in the flatlands where I live - is full of smoke and ash.

Recently fellow foodblogger Susan of Open Mouth, Insert Fork told me about how the Pasadena Humane Society is taking the pets of displaced residents. Many people are having to stay at hotels or motels that do not allow pets, so the PHS is working around the clock to house and care for these people’s beloved animals. Needless to say, they need money to help pay for all the extra man hours.

The firefighters, too, are working overtime. I often wonder how these men and women do it, how they can go to a job every day that pretty much requires them to stare directly into the very soul of fear itself. I flip out when I see a spider crawling up my bedroom wall. I cannot fathom how someone can walk into a burning building, knowing full well of the risks, and do what he/she needs to do to save a life or a structure or an animal. But I'm sure as heck grateful that they do!

Lately I’ve been wondering what - if anything - I can do to help. After some consideration, I decided that I could bake up some treats for the hardworking folk at the local humane society and fire station. Last night, I found a British recipe for Bacon, Onion and Cheese muffins, and thought that sounded like the perfect thing to make. WHAT AN EPIC DISASTER!! I think I converted the measurements wrong and what I ended up with was three dozen hockey pucks that tasted more like salty plastic than anything remotely resembling bacon, onions or cheese. I chose not to post a photo because, believe me, you would shrink back in horror at the mere sight of them. It was utterly frustrating but I refused to throw in the towel. I mean, if a humane society volunteer or firefighter gave up after one try at their various, back-breaking tasks, we’d all be screwed. So I cleaned up the mess, assessed my pantry and started over. My problems, clearly, are very minor in the scope of things.

Thankfully I had some chocolate chips, butter, sugar, oatmeal and more flour. Cookies! It’s nothing fancy, but at the end of a long day, a few homemade cookies might help just a tiny bit. So today I’m going to drop off some of my Oatmeal Dark Chocolate Chip Crunch cookies to both places (along with a donation to the Humane Society since cookies don’t pay the overtime!) and hope that it helps bring a smile to these selfless public servants. I used a simple Tollhouse recipe but threw in some oats and corn flakes, and used dark chocolate chips. I invite you, fellow SoCal food bloggers, to join me in feeding these diligent workers. Don’t drive up to the front lines or anything – just take some treats to your local fire station or animal rescue shelter.

Rich & Hearty Oxtail Ragu

2009-08-30T19:30:00.000-07:00

There are few foods more satisfying than pasta, especially pasta mixed with a rich ragu or bolognese. There's something about scooping up a big, heaping forkful of al dente penne, with the meat sauce clinging to every ridge of the pasta that pleases the palate, stomach and brain like no other.

While I love a good marinara, I prefer a sauce that has more personality and depth. I recently tried Mario Batali's Oxtail Ragu from the Babbo Cookbook, and while it's a bit of work (one of the ingredients is Mario's marinara sauce, so you should make that the day before), it was exactly the rich, filling sauce I was craving. His recipe recommends serving this over gnocchi but I think that could be TOO filling.

The only thing you'll need to serve alongside this heavy dish is a crisp summer salad, and a bottle of a good Italian red wine. Buon appetito!

Bruschetta Two Ways

2009-08-26T15:13:00.000-07:00

Whenever I have a dinner party, I must – must start off with an appetizer and some drinks/wine. I think it’s best to ease your guests into the actual dinner part of the evening; after all, no one wants to walk in the door and be ushered straight into the main point of the evening. A couple of trays of bite-sized, finger appetizers is a great way to take the pressure off and let people relax with a bit of food and drink. This is a good time for introductions, catching up and doing exactly what people want to do at parties: relax and have fun.

As casual as I make it all sound, however, it’s important to make sure the first bites of the evening are, in fact, memorable. After all, these little morsels set the tone for the rest of the meal, and there’s nothing that says Disaster Town faster than some hapless array of half-ass finger foods (read: carrot sticks and canned veggie dip, Vienna sausages on a stick). That said, I like to partake in my own parties so I want something that’s relatively easy, with components that can be done the day before.

For a recent gathering, I served bruschetta two ways: Fig Jam, Prosciutto and fresh Asiago; and Sicilian Tomato Jam with Marinated White Anchovies. I bought the fig jam, but decided to try my hand at this very easy Sicilian Jam recipe since I had some beautiful garden-grown tomatoes from my parents yard. I followed the recipe exactly but also added 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes during the cooking process. I highly recommend it!

The Stuff That Dreams Are Made Of

2009-08-23T17:56:00.000-07:00

It’s quite rare to have a truly “special” food experience at a restaurant these days. Don’t get me wrong; there are a lot of very good restaurants producing very good food. But few, in my humble opinion, turn out genuinely unique and exceptional dishes that transform the average dining-out experience into an otherworldly affair.

Friday night at LudoBites was one of those distinctive dining experiences that will stay with me for a long time. I went with the PleasurePalate Meetup group – 8 people total, none of whom I had ever met. The evening started off with a bit of drama, thanks to one of the women in our group. Minutes after sitting down, the woman yelled out to Ludo, who happened to be walking by our table. “Hey, YOU. Come here,” she said, with about as much grace as a truck driver spitting a tobacco loogie out of his big-rig window. “Yeah, YOU. COME HERE.” Ludo, caught off guard and clearly offended, stood his ground and asked what she wanted. “I want to take a photo with you.” He mumbled something about doing it later and walked away, head shaking with disbelief. Of course, this woman was sitting right next to me and immediately I feared that our whole table would be guilty by association and therefore receive ill treatment for the rest of the night. Thankfully, that was not the case.

We divided the table into two groups of four people and ordered plates to share: the first was a luscious and cool chorizo soup with cantaloupe chunks and a cornichon sorbet. It was spicy and creamy, and the tang of the sorbet and honey-flavored cantaloupe really balanced out the richness of this liquid velvet. It was a revelation in that typically I do not like gazpachos or cold soups. This? To say I’d like to bathe in it would be an understatement.

The rest of the evening was one lively surprise after another: veal tartar that had a hint of oyster flavor and a lovely crunch from slivered almonds; the creamy polenta with cantal cheese and black truffle that had a beautiful grits-like texture and hid a layer of exquisitely-cooked, shredded meat (oxtail?) at the bottom of the bowl, the culinary equivalent to finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. The sinfully rich lacquered pork belly topped with a cool mustard ice cream was gorgeous and fanciful; and my favorites of the evening – a buttery chicken liver mousse atop a savory onion brioche and sweet green apple gelee, and the famed foie gras Croque Monsieur with a cherry compote on squid ink bread – have been haunting my dreams ever since. Ludo’s skill and sense of whimsy are evident in every single dish he prepares.

For dessert, I had to be selfish: I wanted the chocolate cup cake with foie gras Chantilly cream and candied bacon all to myself. Basically, it was a rich chocolate cake with a foie gras frosting, and though that description may scare you, the perfect flavors would convince you that more chefs need to use offal toppings on their desserts.

The thing with Ludo’s cooking is that he combines flavors, textures and ingredients that I, even as a pretty good cook, would never think to try. He’s not afraid to take chances, to throw caution to the culinary wind and do something daring. And that, my friends, is what makes LudoBites a truly unique dining-out experience. I will miss it, and look forward to his new venture – wherever it may be.

Simpler is Better

2009-08-19T15:07:00.000-07:00

I love summer nights on the patio: friends and family, many glasses of wine, a cool breeze and lots of delicious food. Or, should I say, lots of delicious, simple food.

I had my family over for dinner last weekend, and for the most part, I kept it simple. For starters, I baked up some flatbread topped with olive oil, sea salt, sliced leeks and chives. I didn't make the dough, I used Pillsbury Pizza Dough - yup, from a can. I find that it's great for flatbreads because you don't need a roller (just unroll and push out with your fingers) and it bakes up golden delicious in mere minutes.

With the flatbread, I served an appetizer that I'd had at a restaurant in Prague earlier this year: peas with shallots and burrata cheese. I made an easy vinaigrette with tarragon vinegar and olive oil to drizzle over the top. The combination of the slightly sweet peas, the tangy vinegar and the creamy cheese is fantastic. This takes all of about 5 minutes to put together, and is great on top of the onion-y flatbread.

As a side dish to the main course, my parents brought these gorgeous tomatoes from their own backyard, which I served with some spring mix and cucumbers tossed in some roasted garlic Dijon dressing I made the day before. Again, simple but fabulous!

The main course, unfortunately, is where I made a mistake. I had seen this recipe in the current issue of Bon Apetite magazine, and the summery photo immediately caught my attention. Though the recipe was slightly complicated, it sounded quite good: Black Cod with Fennel Chowder and Smoked Oyster Panzanella. I made the chowder the day before, which on its own was quite good, but when paired with the rich Black Cod, it became an extra layer of super fatty creaminess. Though the lemony/oyster panzanella should have worked to cut the cream, it, too, just lost itself in the overwhelming creamy fattiness of the dish.

It wasn't bad, but there was no real balance of texture of flavors here, and though I added extra lemon zest for a bit more acid, it just didn't work. I think the recipe should be altered so that the chowder is less heavy, and the fish should be something less fatty, like a tilapia or halibut. Instead of smoked oysters, which are actually quite mild, I think something heartier and smokier like smoked clams or mussells would work nicely, and the panzanella should be made with bread cubes, not panko like the recipe calls for. It doesn't retain its crunch after being mixed with the smoked oyster salad, whereas bread cubes would. Overall it was a complicated recipe with disappointing results, and in the end I'd wished I would have made something simpler, like a nice flank steak with a chimichurri. When you put that much work into a dish, it really sucks when it doesn't come out the way you'd expect!

Luckily I'd gone back to the simple concept for dessert with this white nectarine tart (adapted from F&W's White Peach Tart recipe). I loved this crust because it requires no rolling out - it comes together quickly in your food processor and you simply press it into the tart pan. The texture is almost like a cookie and it's holds up well to the juicy nectarines. Topped with a big of vanilla ice cream, it's really the perfect summer dessert: simple, fresh and delicious.

Summer Recap and Apologies for Slackin'

2009-08-07T11:43:00.000-07:00

I've been pretty bad about blogging this summer. The reason? I've been focusing my energies on my professional writing gigs (gotta pay the bills), and updating my online portfolio and that, in turn, has put Rainy Days & Sundays at the bottom of the priorities list. Since my posting schedule has been a bit spotty of late, I thought I'd recap some culinary and related highlights from my summer so far that I haven't already blogged about:

*I finished re-doing my patio (pictured above), which entailed re-oiling the patio set, buying and planting new plants and doing a ton of sweeping and cleaning. I will be hosting my second summer BBQ here very soon!

*Finally got to Church & State the other night, and managed to get a couple of seats at the bar. Thoroughly enjoyed everything from the bacon and Gruyere tart to the rich and buttery escargot. But the best part was seeing and meeting Thomas Keller, who happened to be eating there that night.

*Ate dinner at Rivera recently, which was a real treat. Fell in love with the stuffed piquillo peppers and the duck confit. Perfect service, really mellow atmosphere in the back room.

*Bar-hopped in San Francisco and hit Bollywood, Dalva and some Irish pub. That's one of the things I miss most about SF; tons of casual bars (read: no velvet rope!) all within walking distance.

*Ate the perfect brunch at Bar Tartine (San Francisco): Heirloom tomato and erbette chard panade with fontina, sweet onions, basil and slow cooked eggs. Basically it was a savory bread pudding with really crispy edges topped with beautifully cooked eggs. Heaven!!

*Favorite meal I've been making a lot at home lately: Grilled fish tacos. I keep the corn tortillas in the freezer, take two out, microwave them for 20 seconds. I grill a tilapea or cod or whatever-fish-I-have on my grill pan with a bit of salt and pepper. I then make a sauce using plain Greek yogurt mixed with a touch of white vinegar and Sriracha, and grate a bit of cabbage, slice a scallion and chop some cilantro. Assemble fish, cabbage, scallions, cilantro and sauce in the tortilla and you've got super easy and delicious fish tacos!

*My solution for eating what I want without major repercussions has been to walk to the gym 6 days a week and work out for 40 minutes to an hour. It was hard at first but I'm really enjoying it now. Believe me, it sure beats dieting!!

Hope you are enjoying your summer. I promise to get back to blogging very soon!

Alfajores

2009-07-27T14:57:00.000-07:00

Ever since I saw Matt Armendariz on the Martha Stewart show making his fabulous alfajores cookies, I've been dreaming about making (and eating!) them myself. I love the idea of a tender cookie sandwich filled with dulce de leche, one of my all-time favorite flavors.

So the other day I decided to bake up a batch for the trio of sushi chefs at my favorite joint, Z's in Alhambra. Since I work from home, I don't have co-workers to bake treats for, and I couldn't possibly keep these around as I would, no doubt, eat them all myself. I followed this recipe but also added a teaspoon of orange zest to the dough, and then mixed a teaspoon of Cointreau into the dulce de leche for a little added orange-y flavor. They were everything I thought they would be: soft, buttery and delicious!

The Salt House, San Francisco

2009-07-23T19:17:00.000-07:00

You know those perfect dinners out? The kind where the atmosphere is mellow enough to hear each others' conversation but bustling enough to feel alive; where every plate is just so delicious that everyone is scrambling to try everyone else's dish; where the service is so seamless that you barely notice the waitperson yet you don't find yourself needing anything because your glass is always full. I had one of those fantastic meals the other night with my friends Joe and Jill at the Salt House in San Francisco.

Jill and Joe - a power couple if ever there was one. She's an attorney, he's a deputy district attorney. Need I say more?

We shared two appetizers: The lovely dayboat scallops with white corn, chorizo, shittakes and an orange gremolata.

We also shared the poutin, Canada's answer to chili cheese fries. Salt House's poutin consists of fries topped with a short rib gravy and Bravo Farms cheddar. What's not to LOVE?

Jill had the prime New York steak with white corn, spelt, fava beans and a sweet corn puree. The sweet corn was divine, and a perfect compliment to the savory steak.

I went for the Peking duck, which was served with a white bean and summer vegetable salad, and short ribs (yes, that's short ribs at the end of the plate). Decadent and delicious!

Joe opted for the Alaskan halibut which was sitting atop a sweet and sour sauce and summer vegetables. It was light, flaky and perfectly crusted.

We were lucky enough to sit next to the large basket of bread - not a bad thing to look at all night! This is the crusty-chewy bread that everyone gets upon seating at the Salt House.

For dessert, the three of us split this strawberry shortcake with vanilla ice cream. Light, sweet and just about all we could handle after our very substantial dinner!