Joe's Cross-Country Journal

Info on using the site

2005-09-18T23:18:00.000-04:00

Welcome visitors!

Thanks for checking my site out - I had a wonderful experience on the road this past July and am glad to share it with anyone who is interested.

As you can tell, the journal entries are in reverse-chronological order. If you're like me and prefer to view things in a natural order, just click on the links under the "Archives" (on the right, in blue, just a little down the page). This way, you can go back to Day 1 and move forward, if you would prefer. There might be more than one post on a particular page, as some I've written on the same day (for example - Day 2 and 3). If that is the case, scroll down to the bottom of the page to read the earlier post first. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks again for stopping by. Don't forget to sign the guestbook, or send me an email with your comments at josephcurtin@stny.rr.com. I'd love to hear about your experiences on the road, as well.

Joe

2005-08-02T00:18:00.000-04:00

The full journey

Day 29

2005-08-01T23:21:00.000-04:00

Location: Endwell, NY

Total miles traveled: 11,526

As you can tell, I came back home just a bit early. I left South Bend around 10AM on the 29th - by late afternoon I was near Erie, PA. Unfortunately, I was unable to get a hold of my friend Tom in Buffalo, so I decided I would just continue East towards home (only about 600 miles total for the day).

I got back home shortly after 9PM, despite all the bathroom stops and stretching stops. Its odd...on the latter part of this trip I noticed that the right side of my butt gets all crampy, but I don't have a wallet in my back pocket or anything.

Anyhow, got to see my family before I retired for the night at my parents (I was too tired to go any further). Talked a little about the trip, showed off some mementos, and then went to bed.

It was a great feeling to be back home after 29 days on the road. I don't know if I have mentioned this, but prior to my leaving on the 1st of July I was never away from home for more than 5 days (and most of those times they were family trips).

It's not like I've "found myself" on this trip or any other mushy stuff. However, I did learn a few things on the road that I probably wouldn't have found out otherwise:

For one, I can tolerate being by myself for long periods of time. A lot of people (including my students) thought I was crazy (or would become crazy) going on such a long trip solo. I have vacationed by myself before, but never for so long. Granted, I did make stops to see friends and family, but for the most part I was on my own. I was afraid I'd drive someone crazy if anyone came along. This way, I was my own boss...if there was something I wanted to see, I would go drive and see it...didn't have to ask anyone else.

But now, having seen so much, I know what I'd like others to see. It's an incredible country, and I've learned that even in a short amount of time a lot can be seen. Someday, hopefully, I can bring someone out on a cross-country trip to see some of these amazing places.

Another thing is that I've gained an appreciation for the unique area in which I live. Sure, we don't have tall mountains here, huge rivers, or deep canyons, but my home of hills and valleys has its own unique charm. I feel bad in that I went on this trip to hike in all these different places, yet I have never hiked here. I look forward to spending some time learning more about this area before the summer ends. This way, I hope to have a little more to say when people ask me about where I'm from (and I can say more than "3 hours from NYC").

I never would have thought that so many people would be interested in following one person's drive around the country. Maybe it's because you don't see it happen to often? I thought people would get sick of my writing after Day 2. I'm so grateful for all the positive comments and well-wishes as I went along, and I'm glad so many people liked the photos I took (I already blew up a couple and they've come out great)...if there's any one that you particularly liked, let me know, and I'll get you one printed.

My trip turned out to be more enjoyable and eye-opening than I ever thought it could be. I have said for years I wanted to see the U.S. first before I saw any foreign countries, but after taking this trip, I realized how little of the U.S. I've actually seen. Yes, I did drive almost 12,000 miles in a month, and have been in a lot of states, but believe it or not I have seen so very very little of this great country. And it's encouraging to know that I can take 10 more cross-country trips and I would still have so much left to see.

But as fun as it was being on the road, it's so nice to be back home. My time on this trip flew by, and I could've done another month, easy, if I didn't need to get back.

I'd recommend to anyone to go on a drive and see a little bit more of the U.S. than what they are familiar with. Of course, not everyone can take a month to do it, but even if it means driving to Iowa on a long weekend, or flying out to Texas and renting a car for a week to drive around...do it. There's so much more out there than what a lot of us have seen and are used to, and it's well worth seeing. You can't put a dollar value on it.

Thanks again for following me along on this trip.

Joe

Back home with the housemates

2005-07-29T02:05:00.000-04:00

The journey nears its end...

Days 27-28

2005-07-29T01:00:00.000-04:00

Location: South Bend, Indiana

Total miles traveled: 10,921

I woke up freezing shortly after 4AM on the 27th...my blanket did nothing in the cold Minnesotan weather. So I got back on the Interstate and headed South into Iowa.

It didn't take long to get into Iowa, but I was exhausted so I stopped for a nap. Pulling into the rest stop I heard some unsettling noises - my brakes were grinding. I knew I couldn't continue on the trip in this fashion, so I decided I'd try to find a garage when I reached a sizable city in Iowa that could take a look and find the problem.

My road atlas indicates the size of a city with the size font it uses for the name of the city; i.e. the smallest towns are written in the smallest fonts. So when I found a city with a medium sized font - Independence - I knew that would be a worthwhile place to stop.

I drove through the main road in the city but found no Midas, Meineke, or Firestone garages. I called my brother Brendan on my cell, and through a Google search for "Brake Shops" he found a Firestone just a few blocks from my location.

I drove to the Firestone, explained the situation, and the pleasant mechanic Ryan put my car right up on the lift and took a look. He said I would need new front rotors and brakes, costing (with labor) approximately $150. That sounded reasonable to me, so I told him as soon as he could get it done would be great. He actually said he'd start on it right then and told me it shouldn't take more than an hour.

Within 45 minutes I had walked back to the main road in Independence, grabbed a sandwich, and walked back - my car was already parked in the lot. I paid the clerk, thanked Ryan, and was on my way once again. I realized I should have had them do an oil change while it was up, but that didn't occur to me at the time; however, there was a Quaker State just down the block with no cars lined up. I pulled in, asked for an oil change and a tire rotation, and they got right on it. As you can probably tell, the various workers I had met in Independence were incredibly friendly. Before they drove my car into the bay, I grabbed a book in order to pass the time. Catalina and Jon had previously given me a copy of the book "1776" but I hadn't yet had an opportunity to start reading it. I didn't even get through the second chapter and the work was done (the book is definitely a good read so far). I was back on the road by 3PM.

I definitely cannot complain about the front brakes needing to be replaced - with the age of my car, and its high mileage, I couldn't be more thrilled of how its handled almost a year's worth of driving in a period of less than a month. If this is the only major car "issue" this whole trip (knock on wood), I couldn't be more pleased.

I've always said I've wanted to visit Iowa, knowing how flat it is, and I heard you can see for miles in any given direction. I'm certainly not used to anything like that, growing up in the valleys and hills of Broome County, NY. And I have seen a lot of flat land in the South like Texas and Arizona, but it was different here with all the developed farmland. I especially found it interesting how many clouds you could see, but not by looking "up," but my looking "out."

I drove in the direction of Eastern Iowa, where, near the border, I would take HWY 61 South to I80 into Illinois. Before I reached 61, however, I drove into the town of Dyersville. Dyersville is famous because of a movie that was filmed there in the 80's. Here's a picture, see if you can figure out what it is (it shouldn't be too tough):

In case you haven't figured it out, the movie is Field of Dreams that starred Kevin Costner. It was interesting seeing a baseball field in the middle of a cornfield, and reading a little bit of how the county worked to get Universal Studios to film the movie there. I certainly wouldn't have missed much had I chose not to visit the site, but I'm glad I did as it's a location that not too many cross-country travelers get to see.

I had originally read about the city of Dyersville in my book "Road Trip America," which highlights the less frequently visited, but still unique locations in the U.S. I highly recommend the book to anyone planning a trip. Unfortunately for me, I ran out of time visiting national parks so I didn't get to see barely any of the destinations mentioned in the book. I hope to take another cross-country trip in the future where that book will be my sole guide.

Within 15 minutes I was back on the road and decided I'd head towards South Bend in Indiana. Although I would have to cross the state of Illinois and drive past Chicago, I realized it would be only 250-300 more miles until I reached South Bend, where my brother Mike's friend, Tim, lives. I had spoken with Tim days before, and he said he'd be glad to have me come by and spend as much time as I want there.

I arrived at Tim's around 10:30 that night. Tim was also being visited by another mutual friend of his and Mike's - Brent. Brent goes to school in Chicago and was on a break himself so he made the drive over.

Me, Brent, Tim (and Belle)

We spent a couple hours just lounging around, playing video games outside, and talking about my trip. Brent headed back to Chicago that night, and I went to bed a little while later.

Got to sleep in on the 28th, and Tim and eventually went out and grabbed some pancakes for breakfast (I eat like a pig when I stop and see family and friends). We spent the afternoon playing more video games and we later spent time with his girlfriend, Marsa, and her son at her house. I had a great time just getting to relax and talk with these guys who are incredibly hospitable.

I'm back at Tim's now, and I'll head out of here early tomorrow. I might drive up towards the Buffalo area to see my friend Tom, and then I'll drive the four hours back home the following day. It would be pretty simple to get back home tomorrow, but since I'll be on the road it'll be a good opportunity to visit an old friend.

As this trip winds down, I want to say thank you to everyone who has been following along...I didn't know how interesting this would be to the people back home, but everyone I've talked to said they have enjoyed reading this site and looking at the pictures. Your nice emails and comments made the trip even more fun, and I am very grateful for them.

Joe

Day 26

2005-07-27T18:38:00.000-04:00

Location: 40 miles west of Albert Lea, Minnesota

Total miles traveled: 10,273

I woke up in my hotel room, almost forgetting where I was. Sometimes I worry that sleeping in a bed will be too comfortable and I'll have a hard time sleeping, as I've gotten quite used to reclining in my car and putting my feet up on the dash.

It was rainy and cloudy outside, so I decided I would not make the drive back South and try to see Mount Rushmore. Hopefully, I'll have the opportunity to see it in the future. I feel really fortunate I was able to see the Crazy Horse Memorial before the weather turned sour. By the way...I forgot to mention this in my previous post - if I can give you a sense of the immensity of this Crazy Horse Memorial project...look to the immediate left of Crazy Horse's face - in that area (the brownish rock - which will eventually become his hair) you would be able to fit all four heads of Mount Rushmore. That's how big this thing is going to be.

Before I left Rapid City I began a search for a Native American art store that I saw a billboard for miles away. I remembered the address and got there shortly after it opened. The place was enormous...much bigger than I anticipated, and it had all kinds of artwork for sale...paintings, jewelry, beads, etc. Even items that were handmade by non-Native Americans.

I spent some time on the 2nd floor which was the art gallery. There were beautiful paintings for sale (some $5000+) and prints, as well. I found a display of an artist, Don Montileaux, whose work was also on display at the Crazy Horse Memorial store. At Crazy Horse I was drawn to a particular print of his on the wall called "Chief's Blanket." Unfortunately, no more prints were in stock and the one on the wall wasn't for sale. Dejected, I left, not thinking I'd see it elsewhere.

By a strike of luck, the exact print was available in this store in Rapid City. I also was able to meet the artist since his studio was in the same building. Don is a very nice guy who was willing to spend time talking with me even though I know nothing about art. He explained to me that he is Oglala Lakota - the same tribe as Crazy Horse. I had been hoping to bring something Lakota-related home, but hadn't found anything until that print. I thanked Don, he gave me his card, and I went downstairs to purchase the print. When I get back home I'll have it mounted at the Garland Gallery (Colleen - check my mail for a 10% off coupon).

I left Rapid City and headed East across I90 which runs across the entire state of South Dakota. Along the way was the famous "Corn Palace" in the city of Mitchell. I guess it's a place made entirely of corn. Inside there was a museum of all different South Dakotan things. I wasn't exactly enthralled by the place, but I figured since I was out here I should see it.

Yeah, I don't get it, either.

Anyhow, I continued East into Minnesota and found a rest stop to spend the night. Tomorrow I'll head into Iowa, and I should be able to reach Illinois before evening. As the end of July draws near, I'm getting more and more anxious to return home. Yes, I've become quite comfortable sleeping in my car, and it's fun being out on the road, but I look forward to getting back in my own bed, and not having to drive so much on a daily basis. But all the driving has certainly been worth it.

Joe

2005-07-26T10:26:00.000-04:00

The journey continued (approximately)

Day 25

2005-07-26T09:26:00.000-04:00

Location: Rapid City, South Dakota

Total miles traveled: 9,757

Was on the road shortly after 8AM and I headed North on I25 into Wyoming. By early afternoon I was on hwy 18 which would take me into South Dakota. I didn't think of it beforehand, but I noticed on the map I would be driving through Wind Cave National Park on the way to Mount Rushmore, and since I still had plenty of daylight left, I decided I'd see what the park was like before continuing further north.

From what I understand, Wind Cave is similar to places like Mammoth or Carlsbad - a large network of caves underground. However, it is also made up of several miles of prairie and forest where bison, prarie dogs, and elk roam. It was originally set up as a preserve for bison and elk in the early 1900's as hunting by white settlers brought these animals to the verge of extinction.

Not being much of a spelunker, I decided I'd stay above ground, maybe do a little walking, and see what animals were around. I didn't get to see any bison at any of the other parks I've visitied, so I was treated to a nice view of a herd of them shortly after I entered the park...they were right on top of a hill next to the road. One of them almost bumped into my car as it wanted to cross the road.

As you can see, bison are pretty big and visitors are told to keep their distance as they can be dangerous. On a side note, these aren't buffalo. I learned at the visitor's center that these animals were incorrectly named buffalo by European settlers after the animals from Asia, which are an entirely different species.

I continued on the roads through the park, stopping to enjoy the nice scenery. It was odd...this place didn't have mountains, any big canyons, or huge rivers flowing through it, but I found it to be one the best places I've visited this whole trip. Maybe it was the simplicity of the place that I enjoyed so much...I don't know. I would have been able to just sit on the grass for hours, enjoying the nice breeze sweeping over the prarie.

I also had the fortune of getting to see prairie dogs which I have never seen before. They are really little guys who make these high pitched barking noises to communicate, and they scurry back in their holes whenever someone approaches.

I spent some time walking part of the Centennial Trail which goes on for several miles. It was probably one of the more enjoyable trails I've hiked on, as it cuts through hills and meadows; whereas, most of the trails I've been on have been in forests, which I don't enjoy that much.

I headed back when I saw storm clouds approaching...fortunately, I only got rained on a little bit until I made it back to my car.

I headed further North and left Wind Cave National Park and headed towards the Crazy Horse Monument. I had only heard a little bit about this before and I wasn't quite sure what it was, and I was worried I wasted $10 gaining entrance to this place. But I couldn't be more glad that I spent that money.

Just a little background info...Crazy Horse was one of the main strategists who led the Lakota to victory at the Battle of Little Big Horn (Custer's Last Stand). In the 1940's, the Lakota decided they wanted to honor him with a memorial in the Black Hills, considered sacred by the Lakota - in the words of Chief Standing Bear, they wanted to show white people that "red men had heroes, too."

The Lakota hired a sculptor named Korczak from Boston to create the memorial. The memorial would be partially based on a saying attributed to Crazy Horse after he was asked the derisive question "Where are your lands now?" He responded, "My lands are where my dead lie buried." Therefore, the memorial would show him pointing straight out, sitting on his horse - here is what it will look like:

Picture this sculpted into the side of a huge granite mountain. As you can imagine, it would take a long time...right now, the only fully complete part is the face.

When completed (no one knows when...it is all privately funded), the Crazy Horse memorial will be the biggest sculpture in the world, taller than the Washington Monument and bigger than the largest pyramids in Egypt. Korczak died, but the work is continued on by his large family.

At the site is also the North American Indian Museum - it was enjoyable walking through there admiring the art and reading the stories of Native American heroes.

I had to keep moving as I wanted to see Mount Rushmore before dark, but I hope to return some day and spend more time. The $10 was definitely well spent, and I got more than my money's worth. I believe the process being undertaken here is incredibly important and I hope it is completed within my lifetime.

It was cold in the Black Hills...it had to be in the low 40's, and the cold wind didn't help. Fog was rolling in, and rain began to come down, so I debated heading towards Rushmore. It was only 10 miles from the main route I was on, so I decided I'd check it out. But by the time I arrived at the entrance, it was so cloudy and foggy I doubted I would be able to see anything of interest. I left and headed further North to Rapid City.

I got a hotel room to spoil myself for the last time on this trip...I'll be home in a few days, and I'll have a place to stay in Indiana, and, most importantly, I've been under-budget on this trip, so I figured one last hotel stay would be fun.

I woke up to rain and clouds, so I don't think I'll head back South to see Mount Rushmore. I'll head East across the state of South Dakota and then eventually SE into Iowa.

South Dakota is an incredible state, and I've only been near the Western border.

Joe

Day 24

2005-07-25T09:00:00.000-04:00

Location: Longmont, Colorado

Got to sleep in for the first time in a while, and then Melissa and I headed out for Rocky Mountain National Park (only 60 miles away). Melissa was anxious to see some Colorado outdoors as she has been busy with work and not had much opportunity to visit many places. I also wanted to see the place, as it came highly recommended by Thad.

We spent a good four hours at the park - it was great having someone to enjoy a park with, after all the hiking I've done alone.

As you can see, it was an absolutely beautiful park. It was busy...a lot of people were out on the trails, but we still had time to relax on our own and enjoy the views.

After the park, Melissa and went out for dinner, saw the movie "Wedding Crashers," (which was hilarious...I haven't laughed out loud so hard in a long time), and then, of course, we went to a Cold Stone (#3 for this trip...I'm making it a crusade to visit as many as possible).

I'll head out early tomorrow...the plan is to make it to South Dakota. I don't have many specific plans, other than to eventually see Mount Rushmore and the Badlands. We'll see what comes up along the way.

I had an excellent stay at Melissa's. It was great to see an old friend.

Joe

2005-07-24T11:41:00.000-04:00

Aspen...where the beer flows like wine and beautiful women instinctively flock like the salmon of Capistrano

Day 23

2005-07-24T11:07:00.000-04:00

Location: Longmont, Colorado

Total miles traveled: 9,300

I woke up early to avoid anyone bugging me for sleeping in the car, so I was on the road by 5:45. I was planning to drive to Eastern Utah to see Canyonlands National Park and Arches NP.
I was on Utah route 12, which is incredibly desolate, but also scenic. I had a good view of the Henry Mountains from a distance:

Route 12 passed through a national park - Capitol Reef, which was very nice to see while the sun was coming up.
I had a few more hours of driving before I would reach the parks on the eastern side of Utah. I decided while driving I would just visit Arches National Park, and then I would drive into Colorado, aiming for Boulder where my friend Melissa just moved from NY.

I arrived at Arches at midday. Although it was near 100 degrees, I did some walking around and had a great time.

Arches is known for its naturally formed arches in the sandstone. It is most well-known for Delicate Arch, which to get close to you had to hike 1.5 miles. It doesn't sound bad, but it's all uphill; however, it was nothing compared to the hike yesterday at Zion.

I'm very glad I made the hike to Delicate Arch...it was a nice place to sit and relax, and you just have to wonder how long it took nature to create something so incredible.

I left Arches and drove into Moab to stop for some gas and buy some water. By 3pm I was back on the road, aiming to be in Boulder by 9.

The drive to Boulder was nice, despite some rain driving through the Rockies. It was the first time I saw significant rain since I was in North Carolina, so I definitely can't complain.

The rain and an accident delayed me, so I didn't arrive at Melissa's hotel until 10pm. Melissa works for Lockheed Martin and there wasn't an apartment ready for her when she moved out, so Lockheed put her up in a nice Residence Inn. Melissa bought some great tasting sushi for dinner and I stuffed myself, not getting to eat so nicely since Sacramento. She is an excellent host.

Melissa's hotel is just a short drive from Rocky Mountain National Park, so together we'll go see that tomorrow. And then we'll relax for the evening, and then I'll head out of here Monday morning.

Joe

Pictures from Day 22

2005-07-24T03:25:00.000-04:00

I had some trouble last night posting pictures, but now the site seems to be working better, so here are a bunch from the 22nd:
(Be sure to read the entry from the 22nd below)

Zion National Park - Utah

Angels Landing Trail - Zion

Bryce Canyon National Park - Utah:

2005-07-23T01:28:00.000-04:00

nearing the top of Angels Landing trail - Zion National park

2005-07-23T00:40:00.000-04:00

view from Angels Landing trail - Zion National Park

Day 22

2005-07-22T23:49:00.001-04:00

Location: Escalante Outfitters - Escalante, Utah

Total miles traveled: 8,614

I'm sitting in a nice little coffee shop in the middle-of-nowhere town of Escalante, Utah. It's a very nice place with a little shop and attached bar. And they also offer wireless Internet, so I decided to stop.

Despite an unpleasant dream about a Tyrannosaurus in Endwell, I slept pretty well last night in my car...it's nice not having to use my fleecy blanket in this warm Utahanian air - I get little red fuzzies all over my clothes when I use the blanket.

Anyhow, Zion National Park is only about 80 miles from the Grand Canyon so it didn't take me long to get there. I arrived in the early morning so I was one of few people driving through and got to enjoy the scenery, which I found much more impressive than the Grand Canyon.

At the recommendation of my friend Thaddeus, I took the park shuttle to the trailhead of the Angels Landing trail, which is just a little over 4 miles, round trip; however, it's an ascent of 1500 feet. The climb was definitely worthwhile, even though at some points on the trail there's only 3 1/2 feet of rock for you to manuever on, and then just sheer cliff. Needless to say, the trail isn't recommended for those with a fear of heights...I thought I might have some trouble getting near the top, where there are chains you can use to help you climb near the edge, but I actually was surprisingly fine at that height.

3 or so hours later after I got back to the trailhead, I stopped for lunch at the Zion Lodge, and then eventually took the shuttle back to my car. My next stop would be Bryce Canyon National Park, only about 50 miles away.

There's one major road that goes into Bryce Canyon that offers pull-offs for scenic views and trails. Tired from my earlier hike, I didn't do much walking, but I enjoyed the scenery from the pull-offs. I actually found this place more impressive than the Grand Canyon, as well. Thad put it well earlier when he described places like the Grand Canyon as "pre-packaged." It was much quieter and less congested at Bryce Canyon and it just had this feeling of being more "undisturbed" than the Grand Canyon.

Gotta get outta here...the place is closing. I'll post some pictures soon. Next stop...Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park, then I'll be just a short drive from the Utah/Colorado border.

I'm having some issues with the picture-posting feature on this web site...hopefully I'll be able to get at least one up, then I'll add some more later when it's working better.

Joe

Day 21

2005-07-21T23:16:00.000-04:00

Location: Kanab, Utah

Total miles traveled: 8,397

I got on the road shortly after 9 this morning and headed southwest towards the Grand Canyon. I would only be able to see the Northern Rim...even though the more popular Southern Rim is only separated from the Northern Rim by 11 miles (as the crow flies), driving the way around is about 215.

Although it was a little hazy at the Grand Canyon, I was still able to get some great views from the Northern Rim:

I hiked a little ways down inside the canyon...I didn't do it for too long as I was becoming more and more nauseous on the way down. You see, mules share the same trails into the canyon as hikers, so the trails are full of messy mule poop and the smell is awful.

Despite the smell, I was able to get some good looks at the inside of the canyon from walking down a bit:

I got back on the road shortly before sunset, heading back the way I came into Utah. My next stop will be Zion National Park which is near the SW corner of Utah...from there, I'll probably head towards Bryce Canyon.

I learned this evening that I'll have to be back home by the 1st, so I don't have a lot of time, but I should still be able to see all the destinations I had originally planned on visiting.

Gotta find a place to sleep now. Goodnight, everyone.

Joe

2005-07-21T11:02:00.000-04:00

The journey continued (approximately)

Day 20

2005-07-21T09:51:00.000-04:00

Location: near Nephi, Utah

Total miles traveled: 8,000 (exactly)

I woke up early and was able to catch sunrise on the Grand Teton mountain range. Though I had seen mountains earlier in the trip, the size of the Tetons, along with their location near water (Jackson Lake and the Snake River) made them quite enjoyable to view, especially as the sun was coming up.

And here was a sign in the park you don't see back home in JC:

Unfortunately, I did not see any moose.

Anyhow, I continued in a southeast direction into Idaho. I previously did drive through Northern Idaho when I was heading towards Glacier National Park, but now I was planning to spend a little time there.

I headed in the direction of a little city near the border of Idaho and Utah called Preston. On the way to Preston, I drove through Soda Springs, Idaho. You might remember this was a famous stop on the Oregon Trail (I only remember that because of the computer game - I still remember the graphic the game would show when you arrived there). And then I drove through the town of Grace, and I noticed the marquee at the high school:

I had no idea steer wrestling was a high school sport.

I continued on towards Preston. Some of you may be familiar with this city...first I'll show you a picture and then maybe you'll know what place it is...

Recognize this place? Notice the tetherball poll on the left.

Any idea?

It's Napoleon Dynamite country. Preston is where the movie was filmed and it's where the director and star grew up. I'm a big fan of the movie, and since I knew I'd be in the area I planned on stopping and seeing what this place was like. I like small towns, too, and that's the impression I had of this place when I saw the movie.

It not as small as I thought, but certainly not a big place by any means. Maybe something comparable to Norwich, NY. I stopped at a "Big J's" ice cream shop (not the one from the film where Kip and Uncle Rico hang out) and I purchased a "Sweet Map of Napoleon's Preston." The map told you where film locations were (about 12 in total), so I thought I'd go see the playground (above). The map also listed the homes that were used in the film, but I chose not to see those as the people who live there are probably annoyed enough with visitors gawking at their houses. I decided I'd rather walk down the main road in Preston (State St) and see some of the businesses that were in one way or another a part of the film.

Before I get into detail here I apologize to those who never saw the film or don't care for it. But I promise not to get into too many specifics here.

So on State St. I walked by King's (the all-purpose store where Uncle Rico scolds Napoleon for wanting to purchase a variety pack of something). I also walked by the "Cuttin Corral," - a barber shop not featured in the film, but mentioned by the main character.

Naturally, these businesses, and others along State St. are still using the film as a promotional tool even though it's over a year old. They're all selling T-shirts, posters, etc...and it works, as the town gets a number of visitors solely because of the film.

The last stop I made was at this thrift store called Deseret Industries. In the film, the main character shops here for the horrendous suit he wears to a school dance, and he also purchases a a VHS tape called "D-Kwon's Dance Grooves" here, as well. In the movie you can see the random junk that is on the shelves of this store, and I got to witness it first hand...I doubt the movie had to adjust the store in any way to make it appear strange. I'll describe just the "electronics" section for you to illustrate - on one shelf you would see a remote control, an old alarm clock, a transistor radio, two old Nokia cell phones, an original Nintendo (without wires or controllers), and one of those spotlights you can use for looking inside your car hood at night (without a bulb, of course).

The store also sold used clothes cheaply...do you remember those shirts you'd have to wear in scouts that showed your patches, name, and troop number? I noticed one of these shirts was on sale.

Most of the items in the store were priced between $1 - $3. So naturally, I purchased a lot of crap...bought some books, some records, some hats, and some electronic stuff - I ended up getting $35 worth of merchandise, some of which wasn't total junk.. The biggest expense was an 8-CD collection of classical music, which was surprisingly still wrapped in plastic.

Needless to say, I am no longer concerned with finding gifts to bring back home to the family...haha. I almost bought Brendan an old trophy that was for sale - "Dance Extravaganza - 1995."

Anyhow, I had a good time in Preston...not so much because Napoleon Dynamite was filmed there, but because it was a quaint little town. It actually seems like a pretty nice place to live.

I got back on the road eventually and headed South into Utah. I arrived at Salt Lake City around 9pm and I thought I'd relax for a bit, so if I could find a movie theatre, I'd stop and see a recent release. Fortunately, there was a "Cinemark" right off of the Interstate, so I parked there and bought a ticket for "Mr. and Mrs. Smith" as it was the only movie I wouldn't have to wait a long time to see.

The movie was pretty good...a lot funnier than I expected, and it was nice to sit in the AC and relax in a near-empty theatre.

After the movie I got back on the road, but didn't make it too far as it was late and I was pretty tired. I stopped at a "Flying J's" travel plaza for the night. Tomorrow (the 21st) I'll continue south through Utah into Arizona to see the Grand Canyon (which is in the NW portion of the state). After that, the rest of my traveling for the duration of the trip will never be any further south, as I'll head in a NE direction as I visit some national parks in Utah and Colorado, visit a friend in Boulder, and then drive up to South Dakota.

I'm aiming to be back home by the 5th...I have a lot to see in a small amount of time, but I think it'll be doable. It's unfortunate I don't get to spend a lot of time in any one place, but I think this way I'll certainly know what places will be worth visiting again, and for longer durations, in the future.

Joe

Day 19

2005-07-20T18:11:00.000-04:00

Location: Grand Teton National Park - Wyoming

Total miles traveled: 7,530

I slept in a bit this morning and woke up around 8:30. I had planned for somewhat of a lazy day so I took my time getting my stuff together in my room. I also turned on the TV as I have forgotten at times on this trip that there's other stuff going on than what I'm doing. However, CNN could only hold my interest for so long, so I changed the channel to HBO which was showing the horrendous film from the 90's, Empire Records. Please do not ever watch it...it was one of those movies that is so bad that you can't stop watching it, and before I knew it I lost an hour. It's one of those films that would appeal to some Gen-Xers since it takes all the cliches and stereotypes from that demographic and gives us characters representing each one.
(For those of you curious about the film, two of the characters are played by Liv Tyler and a young Ethan Embry).

I'm usually pretty easy-going when it comes to movie-watching, and I'll watch just about anything. But Empire Records was unbearable. Maybe it's unfair of me to badmout the movie without discussing the plot or anything like that...but I'll do it anyway.

Anyhow, I didn't check out of the hotel until 11AM, which was fine since I wasn't planning anything big for the day. I took my car to a Jiffy Lube just a block down the road, and while I waited for the oil to be changed, I brought my dirty clothes to a laundromat just 2 blocks down the opposite way.

Eventually I got the car back (she's doing incredibly well...I can't be happier about how she's handled all this driving in such a short amount of time), got my clothes dried, and then around 1 I got on the road and headed East on Interstate 90 towards Livingston, Montana. Once I arrived there, I'd only have to head south on HWY 89 for just 50 miles or so, then I'd be at Yellowstone National Park.

This is a Montanian sign, interestingly enough

It didn't take long at all to get there...I was inside the Northern park gates by 6. I wasn't sure what to expect of Yellowstone, but after a half hour or so I had a feeling this place wouldn't be on of the major highlights of my trip. I got out at Mammoth Springs to see some small hot springs (most of which had dried up), and it was crazy...lots of people running around, RVs and campers all over the place, and kids screaming. That, coupled with the strong smell of sulfur in the air, forced me to get back in the car and continue further inside Yellowstone.

The place is incredibly touristy, and I was finding it less and less enjoyable the more I drove through it. It's cool that you can see elk near the road, and many visitors get to see bison (though I didn't), but the whole time you're surrounded by others snapping photos of these animals. I was spoiled at other parks like Big Bend in Texas where, during the time I was there, I'd see maybe 1 other car every half hour.

That's another thing...I've seen some pretty spectacular landscapes on this trip - most recently at Glacier National Park. I imagine it would be difficult for me to be impressed by most parks immediately after a visit to Glacier.

Anyhow, Old Faithful was on my route so I decided I'd stop by and see what that was all about. Around half of this huge geyser was a boardwalk that had benches for people to sit on and wait for the geyser to erupt...there were hundreds there. I arrived at the end of an eruption, which was interesting since I've never seen a geyser, but overall the feeling I had was more like "eh." I could have waited about another hour and a half to see another eruption, but I felt catching the end of one was sufficient.

Incidentally, Old Faithful is named not for eruptions that go off in regular intervals - the time between eruptions can be anywhere between an hour and a half to three hours, though 90 minutes is the average; however, Old Faithful is so named simply because it erupts on a regular basis.

I continued South through Yellowstone and decided I would exit the park and drive towards Grand Teton National park, the entrance of which was only 30 miles south of Yellowstone. I arrived at Grand Teton around 10PM and soon found a spot in a campground near the entrance.

I'm looking forward to seeing this park in daylight. As I drove by a lake an hour ago, I could see the silhouettes of the big mountains across it (thanks to a near full moon). Hopefully, I'll wake up around sunrise, as my phone alarm won't work since there is no service out here.

By the way, I don't mean to badmouth Yellowstone and discourage people from coming here...it's a beautiful park and the animals are fascinating, and I'm sure you can get away from the crowds with a little bit of hiking, but to me it just wasn't a lot of fun. Again, my perspective is skewed just coming from Glacier, but I think even if Yellowstone was my first stop on this trip, I wouldn't be all the enthused about it.

And I don't want to sound like this was in any way a bad day...it was actually an excellent one. I got to relax in Missoula this morning, I've already visited the world's first national park, and I'm looking forward to a good time at the Tetons. I'm excited that my car has held up so well this far along. Additionally, I've had some great weather on this trip...I really have nothing at all to complain about this whole trip...and for 19 days on the road (with a few stops in between), I think that's pretty good.

Happy belated birthday to my brother Mike who turned 26 (I think) on the 18th. And despite what the guestbook may say, Mike and Heather were incredibly generous to me during my stay in Sacramento. Happy early birthday to my mom - it's the 21st.

Joe

Day 18

2005-07-19T10:52:00.000-04:00

Location: Missoula, Montana

Total miles traveled: 7,126

I managed to find a place to sleep out of the way (the blanket I bought at Wal-Mart earlier turned out to be a great idea), and I woke up around 5:30. I then headed out for the Going to the Sun road, which runs across the length of the park (I was on the western side). As I mentioned, it has been written that this road is one of the most scenic drives in the U.S., and I was anxious to see why. Going to the Sun road was definitely memorable, but the park itself as a whole was even more impressive.

I got on the road right before sunrise and was already treated to some nice views:
I continued on the road, as the sun was coming up...the road was getting higher and higher, snaking through the hills and mountains. I was one of just a handful of cars on the road that early, which meant whenever there was a scenic pull-off I had room for my car.
As you can see, Glacier National Park is absoluteley gorgeous. But like the other places, it's hard to express the feeling of actually being in a place like this. I had such a sense of humility before nature...these mountains and valleys that were carved by glaciers and erosion over thousands of years...seeing this place puts things in perspective, and all of a sudden your individual concerns aren't nearly as important as they once were.

I don't know what else to write about this place for now...let me just show you some pictures:

So those were all views from the Going to the Sun Road. After arriving at the Eastern side of the park, I headed North towards Many Glacier. There, I got out of my car to do some hiking, I headed towards a waterfall...and after doing a little bit of climbing, I was out on my own enjoying the view.

I eventually headed back West on the Going to the Sun road, thinking I'd do some more hiking along the nearby trails. However, it was discouraging as it was later in the day and the park was filled with people. Traffic was slow along the road was slow, which was fine considering the views, but all the pull-offs were crowded and the trails were packed.

Spoiled, as I had this place almost to myself earlier in the morning, I decided I'd head South and aim to get to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming by tomorrow. I was tired, too, and I decided I'd treat myself again as it's been a while since I slept in a bed...in other words, I'd find someplace to stay other than my car. I got to Missoula, about 150 miles away, and got a room at the "Ponderosa Lodge." This seems like a nice town...it's the home of the University of Montana...and next to this hotel is a Jiffy Lube and a laundromat. So I'll take it easy tomorrow (the 19th), get some stuff done, and then eventually head to Wyoming.

Joe

Day 17

2005-07-18T23:36:00.000-04:00

Location: Glacier National Park - Montana

Total miles traveled: 6,811

As you can see, I drove over 600 miles today...I had one ultimate destination - Glacier National Park which is located in Northwest Montana. I got on the road early and other than a Wal-Mart stop, the only other stops were for gas or a nap. The Wal-Mart stop was crucial, though, as I had an employee cut a blanket for me out of fleece in their crafts department. Now I should be able to stay a bit warmer when sleeping in the car.

I drove through Oregon, parts of Washington (actually drove by Gonzaga University in Spokane), Northern Idaho, and finally arrived in Montana in the evening. Drove by a bunch of lakes...one that is pictured here:

I made my way towards Kalispell, which is a little south of the park. There, I found a large strip with casino/bars all over the place. Even the gas station mini-marts had attached mini-casinoes...can't say I've ever seen anything like it.

Out of curiosity I stopped at one place...I think it was called "Finish Line" or "Checkered Flag"...something like that. Inside were some locals playing pool, watching the "Speed" channel (racing stuff), and there was an awful band singing bad covers of Allman Brother's Band songs. It was a lot of fun being in there.

I left there after hanging out for al ittle bit, then headed towards the park. I arrived at the park around 10:30...so the issue now is finding a place to sleep for the night, even if it's in my car for a few hours. I'll wake up early and have the whole day to explore the park. The first thing I'll do it drive on Glacier's "Going to the Sun Road" - which has been described as one of the most scenic drives in the entire country...we'll find out tomorrow.

Joe

Day 16

2005-07-17T21:17:00.000-04:00

Location: near Madras, Oregon

Total miles traveled: 6,181

Woke up early this morning at my campsite...freezing. I feel I've planned well for this trip, except for cold weather. Anyhow, I packed up everything, and then was able to use the KOA facilities to have a quick shave before I get on the road (who am I kidding...anytime I shave it takes a long time).

I started the drive towards Crater Lake National Park which was in Oregon, NE of my location. It took a few hours longer than I had planned to get there (I ended up having to stop for a nap on the way), but it was well worth the drive.

Crater Lake is the remants of a former volcano, Mt. Mazama. Centuries ago, the volcano erupted, collapsed on itself, and water filled the crater. It is the deepest lake in the U.S. The Blackfeet Native American Tribe consider it a sacred site and white settlers had to discover it on their own, as the Blackfeet chose not to tell them about it. After visiting, you can see why it was considered sacred.

I have never seen water so blue. I thought the Pacific was blue, but nothing compared to Crater Lake. In fact, Native American legend says the bluebird was gray before it dipped into Crater Lake.

I spent several hours at the lake...I actually found an area near the Northern Rim where I could hike and, hopefully, discover my own view of the lake away from the crowds. Though the hike was only about a mile uphill, you could feel the effects of the low air pressure. Just the road outside of the lake, Rim Drive, is pretty high in elevation itself. And then you climb higher, and you can certainly feel it as your lungs work harder.

But it was worth the hike...I found a great view of the lake and had it all to myself. There was this narrow ledge of rock that extended almost over the lake, so I climbed down there to check out the view. I'm a little squeamish when it comes to heights, but I certainly had more than enough room to walk down. Once I got there, I threw a little rock to see how long it would take before it reached below...it took a good five seconds before it hit the rocks on the shore. Needless to say, it was a little creepy looking down, but overall, it was very enjoyable being up there. Crater Lake, despite the crowds, was such a quiet and beautiful place.

I hiked down much later and had to get on the road...it was after 3 at this point. I got a bite to eat at a nearby restaurant, and then began to head up route 97 with the ultimate aim of reaching Interstate 84, which runs along the Oregon/Washington border. I'll take that route for a while, then veer off on highway 2 into Idaho. But I wasn't able to make it to the Interstate, as the trip to Crater Lake wore me out...so I stopped at a rest stop near Madras.

I'll be in Idaho tomorrow, and should be able to get to Montana by nightfall. And then, it will be a quick drive to much-anticipated Glacier National Park.

Joe

2005-07-16T02:34:00.000-04:00

The journey continued (approximately)

Day 15

2005-07-16T01:28:00.000-04:00

Location: near Fort Dick, California

Total miles traveled: approx. 5,800

Greetings from the Pacific Ocean! Though it took about a 4 hour drive, I made it out to the most northern extension of Highway 1 that runs along the coast of California. As soon as I made it out of the woods and got near the ocean you could feel the cooler air and I could drive with my windows up, even though the sun was out and it was just about noon.

It took a while to actually see the Pacific, though, as there was a lot of fog. But it didn't take long before I was able to pull over and get a great look and bright blue, clear ocean water:

As I was getting back into my car, another one pulled up next to mine and the driver noticed the NY plate. Turns out his name was Chris, he was from Buffalo, and was on his own cross-country trip. He is a teacher, as well, and we were able to swap stories about our trips for a little while.

I got back on Highway 1, heading North, and that eventually ended but I continued North on route 101, which also runs near the coast. I was able to drive through Redwood National Forest (where I did see some very, very tall trees - but sequoias are much bigger across) which was enjoyable. According to my KOA (Kampgrounds of America) map, there was going to be a campground coming up somewhere after Crescent City...and sure enough I found it, right off of Hwy 101. I was able to use my KOA discount card for the first time (a moment I have hoped for day after day), and I got my tent set up, so here I am now using the wireless Internet access here to update the journal.

Though it's a bit chilly, I should be able to keep pretty warm in my sleeping bag tonight. I'll wake up early and I should be able to arrive at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon by the afternoon. Depending on location, I might also be able to visit someone I used to go to school with, too.

Two guys actually just sat down at this table I'm typing who happen to be from Western Pennsylvania. We've been sharing some stories and I've gotten some tips about things to look out for later on my trip. This is part of what I've looked forward to about this trip, talking to others about their experiences, and here I've gotten to have some great discussions twice today already.

Joe

The rest of Day 13 and Day 14

2005-07-15T21:03:00.000-04:00

Location: Sacramento, California

Total miles traveled: 5,340

I arrived in Sacramento shortly after 5 PM on the 13th, just showing up shortly after my brother Mike returned from work at Beale Air Force Base. I only recently learned he is a sergeant in the Air Force Reserves. It was nice to be inside, and I got a shower and cleaned up, and then we headed out to eat...got some Mexican with Mike's girlfriend, Heather, and some other friends.

It was a relaxing night, and I got to sleep in a bed for the first time in several days. Today (the 14th) since Mike had to work, I had the morning and afternoon to get some stuff done on my own. I went to Sacramento State University, Mike's alma mater and future grad school, and was able to use the Internet there. I also found a place where I could get a quick haircut as I've gotten pretty shaggy in the weeks I've been on the road.

When Mike returned he, Heather, and I went out for pizza and got some ice cream at a "Cold Stone" (just as nice as the one in Texas). It was a time to eat up, since I will probably be back on the dry food until at least I arrive in Colorado, which will probably be near the last week of July. We came back and I was able to wash my very dirty clothers and I got to wash my car, as well. The car has held up remarkably well, but she was really really dirty after driving over 5,000 miles.

Tomorrow I'll head out early, kicking off the second half of this trip - I'll head West towards the coast and drive north along highways 1 and 101, up into Oregon, and then I'll head NE towards Crater Lake National Park. From there, I'll head into Idaho and then Northern Montanta towards Glacier National park. I had debated heading up to Washington near the Seattle area, but it would take too much time away from other areas I want to see more. After Glacier, the route turns South for a while, with some zig-zagging along the way.

I'm glad I came this way to see Mike...I'm the last Curtin to see California. And it was also nice to finally meet Heather (there are more pictures of her in my parents' house than of me). I'll see them both in just under a month again as they will be in NY for Brendan's wedding.

Joe