Strictly Tastings

Others in July: 24 Tasted of 27

2008-07-01T10:27:00.083-04:00

Some things picked up on the way home... or given as a gift to an appreciative wino. As before, the tasted wines appear in bold. A wine not tasted will be carried over to next month. Cheers, Ww (G - General Listing, V - Vintages, VC - Vintages Collection, O - Other, RP - Winepointer)

Prime Brume Soave Classico 2006, Ww – V, Veneto, Italy, #072447 $15.95
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Four Mile Creek, Ww -- O, Niagara, Canada, #Winery $36.20
Wolf Blass Premium Selection Shiraz 2005, Ww – V, South Australia, #348540 $25.95
Jose Maria Da Fonseca Alambre Moscatel 2000, Ww95 -- V, Setúbal, Portugal, #357996 $13.95
Navarro Correas Gran Reserva Malbec 2005, Ww93 – V, Mendoza, Argentina, #028928 $18.95
Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2002, Ww92 -- G, Tuscany, Italy, #003962 $23.80
Jeanneret ‘Grace & Favour’ Grenache Shiraz 2005, Ww91 -- O, Clare Valley, Australia, #B&W Wines $23.70
Chakana Malbec 2007, Ww91 – V, Mendoza, Argentina, #003509 $13.95
MOMO Sauvignon Blanc 2007, RP87-89, Ww90 – V, Marlborough, NZ, #009167 $19.95
Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2006, Ww90 -- G, Tuscany, Italy, #003962 $23.75
Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2006, Ww90 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #995704 $17.95
Harvest Napa Valley Syrah 1998, Ww89 -- O, California, USA, SO39-2646 $22.17
Vina La Rosa La Capitana Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, RP87-89, Ww89 – V, Cachapoal Valley, Chile, #068429 $14.95
Corte Zovo ‘Sa Solin’ Ripasso 2003, Ww88 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #650713 $15.95
Peninsula Ridge ‘AJ Lepp Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, RP90-93, Ww88 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #078543 $19.15
Zenato Lugana San Benedetto 2007, Ww88 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #707158 $15.95
Firesteed Pinot Noir 2006, RP87-89, Ww87 -- V, Oregon, USA, #361782 $17.95
Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2007, Ww87 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #045138 $13.95
Sterling Vineyards 'Napa Valley' Chardonnay 2005, Ww86 -- G, California, USA, #669242 $16.05
Hacienda Araucano Reserva Carmenère 2005, Ww85 -- V, Central Valley, Chile, #061325 $12.95
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, RP87-89, Ww85 – V, Niagara, Canada, #043281 $16.95
Viniterra Terra Viognier 2006, Ww84 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #057919 $12.95
Vista Touriga Nacional Berias Red 2004, Ww84 -- G, Portugal, #613919 $13.20
Navarro Correas Colección Privada Chardonnay 2006, Ww83 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #064477 $13.95
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Ww81 -- VC, Marlborough, NZ, #316570 $18.95
Zenato Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2007, Ww80 -- V, Venezie, Italy, #037648 $15.95
Pelee Island Merlot 2007, Ww77 -- G, Erie, Canada, #470823 $9.90

TASTINGS:

HARVEST NAPA VALLEY SYRAH 1998, California, USA, 14.1% XD, SO39-2646 $22.17 (Retasted July 23, 2008)

My notes: A syrah blended with 11% cabernet sauvignon, cellared April 2004 and last tasted on July 4, 2007. After a ‘dumb period’ lasting through 2005 and into 2006, Harvest woke up with ‘a full pepper nose with interesting highlights of leather and mint’. I’d say this has improved since with the same tasting but more pronounced in all areas. The colour is a deep shade of black cherry with reasonable legs on the glass. The nose is warm with pepper and blackberry with a few black currants. Medium-bodied with a flavour having an initial sharp attack with a blend of black currants, berries, leather, tobacco and pepper then finishing full of lively black fruit, soft tannins and appealing tar. A bold sipper with a sharpness that some may not prefer, but overall I found it delectable. Better paired with beef stroganoff, pepper steak, or chili con carne. Since this is my last bottle it’s mute to talk about cellaring but I believe it could go downhill from here becoming increasingly tart - ten years has been long enough. Ww89

JOSE MARIA DA FONSECA ALAMBRE MOSCATEL 2000, Setúbal, Portugal, 17.5% MS, #357996 $13.95 (Retasted July 23, 2008)

My notes: Vintages released this on January 8 2005 and not since. I first tasted on January 14, 2005 and it was likely my first venture into dessert wines on this blog. Tony Aspler gave it four and one half stars so I purchased a slew. The sugar level is eight and the colour is a delicate salmon pink with distinct aromas of meadow flowers and caramel, spicy sweet. At room temperature the apricot and raisiny butterscotch flavours are inviting to the taste buds and last through a long finish with the addition of a slight walnut tone. An afternoon sipper instead of a honey bun, if you’re so inclined, or have with a tray of pineapple rings, pear slices and grapes. Chill and pour over peaches on a scoop of frozen vanilla yogurt or have with crème caramel to add a different dessert dimension. Cellaring hasn’t hurt and it likely could carry on for several more years – ‘til 2010 at least. Ww95

NAVARRO CORREAS GRAN RESERVA MALBEC 2005, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #028928 $18.95 (Tasted July 22, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 5, 2008 described as “The Correas family’s history in Mendoza dates back to 1798. From the mid 1800s to 1974 the family cultivated grapes for other wine producers, but all that changed in 1975 when Don Edmundo Navarro Correas established the family’s own winery. Today, winemaker Juan Marco crafts this flavourful, well structured Malbec. It’s brimming with blackberry, black cherry, cedar and coffee aromas and flavours. Great with grilled meats or pasta in a zesty tomato sauce.” My notes: A deep ruby with a violet hue and long legs. A lovely scent of currants, blackberries, worn leather all with a touch of spice. Full-bodied, smooth, flavours that are tobacco tinged currant and bright berry leaving black fruit and a tar edge on the palate. A serious sipper and an elegant companion to prime rib, roast lamb, steaks and bbq’d pork ribs. This is drinking well now and could cellar up to eight years adding even more interest. If your preference leans to a full-bodied Rhone or Rioja this is excellent value. Ww93

NAVARRO CORREAS COLECCIÓN PRIVADA CHARDONNAY 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, #064477 $13.95 (Tasted July 22, 2008)

Released by Vintages on July 19, 2008 described as “Colección Privada is Navarro Correas' premier tier. The wines are designed to exhibit a classic style, and the bottle labels feature original artwork by celebrated Argentine painters. This Chardonnay is fresh and juicy, offering apple, pear, fig, and a touch of spicy oak. Delicious with grilled chicken, barbecued shrimp or artichoke salad.” My notes: A light blond leaving an even film when swirled. The aromas start as grapefruit and lemon ever so light staying that way throughout the tasting. Medium-bodied with a polite flavour of grapefruit and melon on first sip warming the throat and leaving a refreshing layer of melon and dry apple. Serve chilled and let the flavours and textures develop in the glass and on the palate. A good companion for a cheese and fruit tray or bacon bit loaded caesar salad. Pair with anything fishy… perhaps too light for grilled fowl. A drink now but cellaring up to four years should be marginally rewarding. Ww83

FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIESLING 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara, Canada, 9.1% D, #043281 $16.95 (Tasted July 21, 2008)

Released by Vintages on July 19, 2008 described as “The cool climate of the Niagara region is ideally suited to the cultivation of Riesling and it comes as no surprise that this varietal is fast-becoming one of Ontario's signature wines. Beamsville Bench, in particular, has been producing exceptional wines from this noble grape. Fresh, well-balanced, and off-dry, Flat Rock's Riesling offers vibrant aromas and flavours of peach, tropical fruit and grapefruit. Terrific with spicy cuisine.” My notes: Although next door to Beamsville Bench, Twenty Mile Bench differs in that it has deep clay and till surface soils, with a high proportion of limestone and shale. This riesling reflects this terroir having a slightest tinge of green in a light blond colour and nutty aromas taking forever to accumulate in a long necked glass. Served offchill, but not far, there’s a sweet edge to a lemonade base that refreshes the taste buds then leaves it chalky offdry with lemon succulence. A sociable sipper that could pass for a dry light lemonade except for a stone fruit tone and slight warmth on the palate. Great as an appetizer or quaffer on a hot summer day and for hors d’oeuvres or a light snack. Perhaps with chinese fare, thai, sushi or grilled freshwater fish. Strictly a drink now. Ww85

VIÑA LA ROSA LA CAPITANA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Cachapoal Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #068429 $14.95 (Tasted July 20, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 19, 2008 described as “Ripe and bountiful, this Cabernet Sauvignon is made for the rich flavours of grilled summer fare. The nose is filled with black cherry, raspberry and oak spice aromas. Dry and fruity, it is nicely balanced by a seam of acidity.” My notes: The colour of a fully ripened black cherry and delicate, warm aromas of the same dark fruit tinged with the scent of forest floor. Air for an hour or decant. Full-body, silky, nicely balanced tannins and acids, black currants, blackberries, some tar and humidor makes this a demanding sipper. I found the process influences matched the fruit so if you lean that way it’s great. Have with a bacon wrapped filet mignon or grilled back ribs liberally sprinkled with Barberian rub or a honey garlic sauce - was wonderful sharing the spotlight with a roast veal chop. Perhaps cellaring up to four years could settle what I’d call in-your-face-ness and introduce some elegant sidelights making it an excellent investment. Ww89

MOMO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #009167 $19.95 (Tasted July 20, 2008)

Released by Vintages on July 19, 2008 described as “From Seresin Estate, the 2007 vintage is a drink-young style with a very punchy, lifted bouquet. Crisp and vivacious, with ripely herbaceous flavours, a slightly minerally streak and good body and length, it's delicious in its youth. (Rated 4 or 5 by Michael Cooper… )” My notes: A light blond colour fills the bowl and a bright gooseberry aroma tweaks the nose making me pause for a few more sniffs. The flavours are just as bold full of almost ripe gooseberries subdued only by a touch of lime then finishing with the fruit slowly declining ending with a touch of clay. Overall the fruit, dry tang and mild roundness makes this a delight for kiwi-style sauvignon blanc sipping and for pairing with shellfish nibbles or entrees. A perfect drink for summer patio time with friends. Use up this year. Ww90

CHAKANA MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, #003509 $13.95 (Tasted July 20, 2008)

Released by Vintages on July 19, 2008 described as “This big, fruit-forward Malbec is consistently an exceptional value. The 2006 vintage scored a 90 from Wine Enthusiast, and was designated a Best Buy pick. This new vintage offers intense aromas of black fruit and chocolate, with plenty of toasty oak and vanilla. Bold and flavourful, it will make a fine partner for barbecued burgers, or gourmet pizza with sausage and sundried tomato.” My notes: A deep ruby with a garnet cast and an aroma that needs airing for twenty minutes to fill a full bowl, then of warm chocolate dipped black cherries and one or two raspberries. Midway to soft with a bright tartness and texture of fine tannin enveloping dark fruit for flavour. A woody finish dries the palate along with some dark fruit to add interest. A bold sipper worth investing the taste buds in – lots of spirit that mellows slightly with airing but doesn’t lose a polite bite. Good with anything seared, grilled or roasted and flavourful - was awesome with a roast veal chop (2" thick) sliced, covered with caramelized shallots and garlic buds. This may blossom if aged two to six years. A real value. Ww91

FIRESTEED PINOT NOIR 2006, Oregon, USA, 12.5% XD, #361782 $17.95 (Tasted July 19, 2008)

Released by Vintages on July 19, 2008 described as “Near-perfect conditions in September and October made the 2006 vintage one for the record books in Oregon, and this well-priced Pinot is consistently one of the state's best values. Truly representational, the fruit is sourced from the Willamette, Umpqua, Rogue and Walla Walla Valleys. This is a plush and juicy wine brimming with soft black cherry and raspberry fruit balanced by a bright seam of acidity and a hint of oak.” My notes: I retasted after a day in the open bottle. This has a ruby colour with a mid-garnet cast and aromas more mysterious than discernible… very faint. A soft first sip and light flavours of raspberry and silky strawberry, well blended with fine tannin and acid. The finish is smooth and delicate ending with a mellow but subtle flavour of bright berries. Not much to object to nor to savour making this politically correct – a subdued burgundian. Serve slightly chilled or at room temperature and no one would refuse a second glass. Have with salmon on greens, tomato and bonconcini and balsamic, bacon strips and feta on iceberg lettuce or with chicken breast on herbed orzo. Cellaring a year or two may add to the current textures increasing its appeal. Ww87

OYSTER BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #316570 $18.95 (Tasted July 17, 2008)

A Vintages’ Essentials Collection wine newly released on May 24, 2008 described as “This classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc showcases exuberant aromas of gooseberry, grass, cream of asparagus, jalapeno peppers and melon. It's intense and lively with crisp acidity and a lingering, slightly minerally finish. Try with shellfish like steamed clams, pan-fried scallops, mussels and, oh yeah, oysters.” My notes: A light blond with pronounced aroma of gooseberry but mostly nettles, some say ‘sweat’. The website doesn’t detail varietal, vineyard(s) or blending proportions. A smooth tartness accompanies a lemon tinged light gooseberry not as expressive of fresh fruit as I expected. The finish has a vanilla seam suggesting sweetness but the texture ends with some lime and grass and asserts its dryness. A different sauvignon blanc lighter bodied and more of a commercial blending of unusual flavours. As a sipper the nose turns me off but it would be an OK seafood companion for spicy mussels or grilled rainbow trout. Not for cellaring. Ww81

ZENATO PINOT GRIGIO DELLE VENEZIE 2007, Venezie, Italy, 12.5% XD, #037648 $15.95 (Tasted July 17, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “By embracing a variety of modern techniques, Alberto and Silvano Zenato have taken Pinot Grigio in exciting new directions, pushing its intensity and body to levels hitherto not achieved in the region. Enjoy this ripe, round and fresh wine with grilled, herbed chicken breast, poached sole or spring salads.” My notes: A light blond colour crisp in the glass and a meadow floral scent almost too light to be noticed. The first sip carries a bland seam with light citrus and a creamy body that provides a smooth texture for a straw and melon finish. A delicate, well-balanced sipper, not intrusive in any way and could be served at any function – but without oohs and aahs. A quaffer for whitefish entrees, mussels in a light oil sauce or a cheesy penne dish. Serve well chilled. A drink now. Ww80

CORTE ZOVO 'SA SOLIN' RIPASSO 2003, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #650713 $15.95 (Retasted July 13, 2008)

My notes: Vintages released this vintage on June 24, 2006 and my first tasting was the same month. Winecurrent had given it five (of 5) or “achieving nirvana” and Natalie MacLean, 87/100. I retasted March 2, 2007 noting the short cellaring time had improved the body and mellowness without any loss of bright cherry flavour but then on August 14, 2007 I noted “…the fruit is very much subdued: a light smoky herby aroma with flavours void of cherry but still having a spicy allure and silky texture. A pleasing sipper… “ At today’s tasting, the colour has a gray cast but still with a ruby hue and the aroma is smoky forest floor with some herb and cherry overtones – still quite OK. The texture has a very pleasant silkiness and the fruit is predominant with bright cherry lasting a long while ending smooth and full of mint. Second sips reinforce the fruit and texture making the original investment worthwhile. This would be great with tomato pasta dishes, veal parmagiana, five cheese or meat lasagna, or with roast veal chop with shallots and garlic. Gotta be at peak now. Ww88

PENINSULA RIDGE ‘A.J. LEPP VINEYARDS’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Ontario, Canada, 13.0% XD, #078543 $19.15 (Tasted July 13, 2008)

A Vintages release on June21, 2008 described as “Never one to rest on his laurels, Peninsula Ridge's winemaker, Jean-Pierre Colas, has spent many winters working vintages in the southern hemisphere. During one of his stints in New Zealand, he undoubtedly picked up some pointers for crafting expressive Sauvignon Blancs like this single-vineyard version. Bursting with gooseberry, straw and grapefruit aromas, this crisp and vivacious wine has mouth-watering acidity and delectable fruit and mineral flavours.” My notes: This can be served too chilled taking away much of the sipping enjoyment - serve off chill. A light blond, light legs and aromas of gooseberries and grapefruit, also light. The first sip brings a crisp, clean flavour of lime, gooseberries and grapefruit, quite silky, a soft finish with a nice tart edge ending with slight grass and chalk. If sipping, give time for warmth and flavours to build – very sociable and also good with light buffet snacks: a shrimp ring, stuffed mushroom caps, bacon wrapped scallops or with freshwater fish and creamy pastas. Ww88

RICASOLI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2006, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #003962 $23.75 (Tasted July 16, 2008)

My notes: A General listing. Not available locally – but as it turned out I was in the Niagara-on-the-Lake outlet this week and after a search they found the new vintage. The 2006 shows some youth as yet and should be aired for a short while. The colour is a deep ruby with garnet hue, long legs and a bright, judiciously oaked cherry nose. A slight tobacco humidor sets up flavours of black cherry and raspberry finishing peppery with a firm acid, a layer of dark fruit and a silky texture making this a bold sipper. Premature to treat as a drink now unless you don’t mind a lot of character. Pair with savoury or spicy meat dishes to cover most of its youthfulness. For elegance, cellaring for several years is recommended – as with the 2002, try four to six years. Ww90

RICASOLI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2002, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #003962 $23.80 (Retasted July 12, 2008)

My notes: The 2002 vintage was originally cellared June 2004 and was last tasted April 23, 2006. The 2002 remains a dark ruby although so deep it’s no longer a see-through. Long legs last forever on the glass and there is a soft toasty sweet cherry nose that fills a deep bowl. Full-bodied with soft tannins on top of warm leather, plum, ripe cherry flavourings and ending with a bright mint edge. The finish has a mild acid accompanying cherry and vanilla tones, almost mellow and bone dry. A balanced integration of process with fruit for a delectable result and well worth the wait. By itself an interesting sipper or have with gorgonzola on rye crisps, liver paté, tapinade or anchovy paste on soft breads or with grilled meats, savoury stews and tomato pastas. Still cellaring well but unfortunately this is my last 2002. Ww92

VINITERRA TERRA VIOGNIER 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% D, #057919 $12.95 (Tasted July 11, 2008)

Released by Vintages on June 21, 2008 described as “… This wine features tropical fruit, apricot, peach and floral aromas and flavours. Dry, medium full-bodied with ripe, juicy flavours and bright, balancing acidity, this white will pair well with grilled tuna or barbecued chicken legs.” My notes: A bright golden colour, long legs and fragrance initially of mown hay then, after airing a few moments, of distant meadow blossoms. Serve at room temperature for a smooth, full mouthfeel and a better balance between hay and fruit. This has a citrus tang, unripe peach or apricot flavour then ends with long wet clay. As a sipper I’m tempted to gulp my way through this for its fullness and avoid focusing on the unusual flavours – but they do grow on you. The net: not a sipper, pair with flavourful seafood, fowl, green salad with pesto dressing, anchovies or creamy pastas. My recommendation… for $13, cellaring for two years may bring extra flavour (not fruit) layering but you have to try it first to be convinced. Ww84

STERLING VINEYARDS 'NAPA VALLEY' CHARDONNAY 2005, California, USA, 13.5% D, #669242 $16.05 (Tasted July 10, 2008)

A General listing described as “Medium deep yellow straw colour; aromas and flavours of apple, pear and oaky vanilla; dry, medium to full bodied, well balanced with good length. Serve with roast poultry or lobster.” My notes: A light golden colour with faint aromas of peach fuzz and golden delicious apple. Medium-bodied, the flavours are an interesting blending of almond, apple, lime zest and papaya seemingly presenting each separately then coming together for a long silky finish – a tender touch of oak. A very interesting sipper having a good balance of acid and fruit and would also companion well with seafood, shellfish or chicken dishes. Serve chilled and let warm for a wide range of changes. This should cellar well for several years – I’d plan for four. Ww86

ZENATO LUGANA SAN BENEDETTO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 13.0% XD, #707158 $15.95 (Tasted July 9, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 5, 2008 described as “Sourced from Zenato's estate vineyards in San Benedetto just south of Lake Garda, this crisp and refreshing white is perfect for summer enjoyment. Made from the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, its delicious peach, citrus and melon flavours will make this a surefire hit when paired with broiled fish or seafood risotto, or savour on its own as an aperitif.” My notes: Zenato has been a dependable vintner for my tastes so I’m whimming this bottle from Vintages. The colour is a light lemon, almost clear and there are very long legs and aromas of soft melon. The texture is solidly round filling the senses with ripe melon, almost flat but with enough substance to carry an almost ripe melon flavour to a long smooth, slightly tangy finish. I didn’t get ‘citrus’ except for a bit of tartness and ‘peach’ is very subtle if there. As an aperitif serve well chilled so the fragrance and flavours can evolve while sipping. A warm weather sipper for sure, or for grilled whitefish and creamy pastas, risotto, or lemon, garlic, chicken or scallop orzo. A value for a ‘quiet’ white. Ww88

HACIENDA ARAUCANO RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2005, Central Valley, Chile, 13.0% D, #061325 $12.95 (Tasted July 9, 2008)

A Vintages release described as “Deep black red with crimson rims. Earthy, savoury aromas with a myriad of dried herbs and juicy, jammy red fruits with vanillin oak, blackberries, chocolate, earth, tar and herbs. Plenty of flavour and a long savoury finish ... (Sue Courtney, May 2, 2007).” My notes: Jacques & François put the Lurton name behind this Reserva from Chile… but then how is the wine? It’s a deep black cherry colour opaque in the glass with an oaky plum/currant fragrance distant but warm and focused. In spite of its appearance, it has a lightish medium-body with a smooth texture, toasty plum/currant flavourings and nicely balanced tannins and acid. An old world red having just enough fruit to give it varietal character. A pleasant sipper and an alternative meal red finishing dry with more currant than plum and an equal shot of process sobriety. Have with prime rib, T-bone steak, rack of lamb or savoury stews. Could cellar up to four years - likely at peak now though. Ww85

PELEE ISLAND MERLOT 2007, Erie, Canada, 12.5% D, #470823 $9.90 (Tasted July 7, 2008)

A General listing described as “Medium ruby colour; dry and light-bodied with crisp acidity and very little tannin; berry fruit flavour with some plum notes. Serve with picnic fare; cold cuts; burgers.” My notes: This has a true black cherry colour and legs that form very slowly on the glass. A sharp nose with a whiff of toasty cherry/berry and flavours of cherry/berry along with a nip, lightly stinging on the swallow. The finish is dry, fine tannins, no discernible sweetness, fruit has left behind flavours of crushed cherry stone, a smooth texture, an earthy layer and a metallic edge. Not a VQA wine the website says ‘100% merlot’ without indicating the vineyards. Have this red when elegance is not needed or expected - a rough drink-now. Pair with burgers, hot dogs, chili con carne or anything that may occasionally require purging of the taste buds. PS. The last half of the opened bottle was much smoother on the third day. Ww77

ZENATO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2006, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #995704 $17.95 (Tasted July 6, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “… a blend of Corvina and Rondinella. Medium-bodied with delicious blackcurrant fruit and an undertone of mocha and roasted almond, this is perfect with pasta primavera or mushroom risotto.” My notes: A deep ruby colour, long legs and aromas of ripe plums, pepper and black cherries needing a few minutes to develop in a large bowl, then it’s delectable The first sip shows a dry framework of cherries, currants and toasty oak full in the mouth and smooth. Fine tannins and a very soft tartness lead the way for a bright fruit finish. An excellent alternative as a dry red and ideal with tomato based pastas, pepperoni/ham/bacon pizzas, veal parmigiana – this can stand some heat but not a lot. Cellaring for up to four years should be OK and some ageing is recommended. Ww90

ANAKENA SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2007, Rapel Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #045138 $13.95 (Tasted July 5, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 5, 2008 described as “This crisp, well-balanced Viognier has intense citrus and apricot aromas with subtle hints of tropical fruit. A lovely aperitif or delicious complement to seared duck breast.” My notes: Having enjoyed the 2006 (September 2007, Ww90) I was looking forward to this vintage. A light golden colour with fragrance of tart papaya, field floral, slight lychee nut and showing light legs on a tulip glass. Serve chilled and allow aromas to develop. There is a firm tang and freshness carried along with flavours of gooseberry, herbaceous citrus tailing off with some melon. If I hadn’t seen the label I would have guessed a medium-bodied sauvignon blanc although there’s some melon smoothness in the long tangy finish where ‘viognier’ can’t be questioned. Drinking well now this could also age for several years to let the process work on the tropical flavours. Have with seafood, cheesy pastas, chicken or veal dishes. Two dollars cheaper than the 2006 makes this an excellent value. Ww87

JEANNERET ‘GRACE & FAVOUR’ GRENACHE/SHIRAZ 2005, Clare Valley, Australia, 15.5% XD, #B&W Wines $23.70 (Tasted July 2, 2008)

My notes: The last but one of my 2004 vintage was tasted in June. Checking the B&W Wines website I noticed the 2005 was available. It came today and why wait! The 2005 is a blend of 75% grenache and 25% shiraz from the Grace & Favour vineyards in the north part of Clare valley. Served in a deep bowl and allowed to air the colour is of rich crushed blackberries and the aroma is of ripe blackberries, warmed chocolate and bright pepper. The first sip is tart but round and smooth, full of fruit and mint producing a long finish of spicy blackberries. Bolder and a tad thinner than the 2004 perhaps showing the difference in vintages but equally warm and lip smacking. A red for slow sipping with a good book or good conversation. Have with ribs, lamb shank, steaks or a crockpot stew – was great with hamburgers with the works. Cellaring for a few years would be rewarding and it likely could age up to eight. Ww91

VISTA TOURIGA NACIONAL BERIAS RED 2004, Portugal, 14.0% D, #613919 $13.20* (Retasted July 1, 2008)

A General listing described as “Deep dark ruby colour; aromas and flavours of black fruit, blueberry, cedar, herb cocao and plum; dry, medium to full bodied with rich fruit concentration and generous tannins on finish.” My notes: Last tasted in July 2007 and when purchased was discounted to $10.60* - today it’s listed at $13.10. Decanting and airing for an hour shows this as a rich dark plum colour with warm aromas of plum jam and damp forest floor. It’s full-bodied with a blending of plum, licorice, blackberry and a soft spice. Coarse tannins leave a dry mouthfeel covering spicy fruit to the degree I’d say it’s not a sipper. Should be okay with lamb or, if not too spicy, grilled beef but better if allowed to age a few more years. The balance has shifted to ‘process’ leaving predominant tannins not in the original tasting. Ww84

Still Rosés: 16 Tasted of 17

2008-07-01T08:54:00.026-04:00

There’s nothing pleasanter than sipping a smooth rosé on a warm day drifting off with recollections of southern France or the summer cottage long past. I went back to La Gaude just north of Nice after (quite) a few years, ordered the same memorable rosé. This time I swear the bottle served had stayed in the sun too long. I’ve had a few rosés recently: Organized Crime Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 (June, Ww80), Montes Cherub Rosé of Syrah 2007 (May, Ww86) and Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel 2006 (Feb, Ww88) and haven’t repeated their tastings here. Rosés are special - not quite like champagne - a wine for a quieter moment. I haven’t found that one special rosé since but will keep looking.

A rosé is hard to get right. They can be highly ‘cherry bubble gum’ flavoured... or too saccharine… or texturally uninteresting. I’ll see what my taste buds think of the following selections.

Almost half are Niagara rosés with the rest European and ‘New World’ for contrast. Rod Phillips has rated the asterisked labels in his Winepointer #8. Wines when tasted appear in bold. A wine not tasted will be carried over to next month. Cheers, Ww (G - General Listing, V - Vintages, VC - Vintages Collection, O - Other, RP - Winepointer )

Mountain Road Wine Company Gamay Semi-dry Rosé 2004, Ww -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $11.95
Cave Spring Rosé 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww90 -- G, Ontario, Canada, #295006 $13.05
*Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, RP90-93, Ww90 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #039974 $14.95
Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2007, Ww89 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #045203 $12.95
Sileni Cellar Selection Cabernet Franc Rosé 2007, Ww88 -- V, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #599951 $13.95
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2007, Ww86 -- V, Rhone, France, #739474 $14.95
Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007, Ww85 – V, Central Valley, Chile, #059147 $10.95
St. Hallett Barossa Valley Rosé 2006, Ww85 -- V, Australia, #034249 $16.85
Muga Rosé 2007, Ww85 -- V, Rioja, Spain, #603795 $12.95
Domaine Maby La Forcadière Tavel 2007, Ww84 -- V, Provence, France, #701318 $17.95
Salena Organic GSM Rosé 2007, Ww83 -- V, Riverland, Australia, #068908 $18.95
Megalomaniac Pink Slip Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww80 – V, Niagara, Canada, #085126 $14.95
*Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, RP87-89, Ww79 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #559088 $16.00
Goats do Roam Rosé 2006, Ww78 -- V, South Africa, #655225 $13.85
Vineland Estates Gamay Noir Rosé 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww76 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #078394 $14.95
Wildass (Stratus) Rosé 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, RP85-86, Ww76 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #071712 $19.00
*Henry of Pelham Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, RP90-93, Ww74 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #685610 $14.95

TASTINGS:

VALDIVIESO CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSÉ 2007, Central Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #059147 $10.95 (Tasted July 22, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 19, 2008 described as “This robust, cherry-pink rosé is packed with ripe blackcurrant and berry aromas and flavours. Dry, medium-bodied and bursting with fruit, it's a bolder-styled rosé that's perfect for around the barbecue this summer.” My notes: A pinkish salmon in a tulip glass with a light aroma of berries, I'd guess blue-, and a bit of sweat. Serve off chill for an extra dry first sip followed by a scant flavour of berry and cranberry, just enough to taste. The palate ends up dry with slight fruit flavourings, declining quickly, refreshing and building roundness and flavour with each sip. This could be a grilled freshwater fish companion or a bbq’d chicken quaffer as well as being priced right for a dry summer ‘cooler’. It would be interesting to cellar for two years to see where it goes but likely a drink now. Ww85

MEGALOMANIAC PINK SLIP PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2006, Niagara, Canada, 10.2% D, #085126 $14.95 (Tasted July 19, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 19, 2008 described as “Even a megalomaniac blushes now and again. John Howard, the man behind the popular Megalomaniac series… The wine is fresh, fragrant, fruity, very dry and very refreshing. A summer porch-sipper. (Rick VanSickle, The Ottawa Sun, May 14, 2008). My notes: From Andrzej Lipinski, the same winemaker used by The Organized Crime Winery. A bright salmon pink in the glass with an aroma that needs to be coaxed by letting go off chill, perhaps a slight cherry. This hits the spot on a hot day… a touch of sweet and tart apple flavour followed by a mild red cherry. The flavour slides into a finish with a slight sugary texture and a mineral tinge. A straight forward rosé, no herbs or spice to complicate sipping either by itself or with a cold buffet: sweet and sour chicken wings, cocktail sausages, shrimp ring or mild cheese tray. A drink now suitable for an afternoon patio crowd. Ww80

DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE TAVEL 2007, Provence, France, 14.0% XD, #701318 $17.95 (Tasted July 17, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “According to Robert Parker Jr., Domaine Maby is a winery that 'never disappoints'. Their rosés are always anticipated because of their depth of flavour and beautiful balance of fruit and acid. Just say 'Maby Baby' and enjoy it as an aperitif or with freshly-caught trout or bass.” My notes: The LCBO description hasn’t changed since my first purchase of the 2005 vintage after the Vintages release on June 24, 2006 – likely earlier. (Shouldn't there be a 'time out' on any critic's notes?) A pretty cherry red with a pinkish rim in a tulip glass and faint floral aromas of rose petals. Medium-bodied with an appealing smoothness, flavours are a dry combination of red cherries and cranberries and the finish is short leaving cherry stone and clay on the palate. Serve slightly off chill with cocktail sandwiches or olives and mild cheeses. Not easily paired unless with luncheon fare: cold sliced or minced ham on bagette, sliced pork or turkey on a multi-grain bun both with greens or a fruit salad. I found no difference from the 2005 vintage tasted June 2006 except for being $2 more. Not a value. Ww84

VINELAND ESTATES GAMAY NOIR ROSÉ 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 11.0% D, #078394 $14.95 (Tasted July 13, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7, 2008 described as “This ebullient rosé is just bursting with ripe red-berry fruit flavours (cherry, raspberry and strawberry) and culminates in a crisp and refreshing finish. Chill this rosé for thirty minutes and serve it as a tasty accompaniment to grilled-chicken satays, tuna steaks or a light vegetarian meal on the patio.” My notes: A vivid light cherry red and aromas of cherries, strawberries and slight sweat. Light-bodied, dry, crisp, strawberry tainted cherry and a moderate dry, cherry stone finish. I found it to be an uninteresting sipper, slightly better off chill. Would be OK with chicken wings or roast chicken breast. I didn’t go for a second glass - a drink now without flaws or distinction. Ww76

DOMAINE DES CARTERESSES TAVEL ROSÉ 2007, Rhone, France, 14.0% XD, #739474 $14.95 (Tasted July 8, 2008)

Released by Vintages on May 10, 2008 described as “Tavel rosés are more robust and flavourful than those of Provence, making them excellent candidates for food matching. It pairs particularly well with herbed chicken dishes and grilled vegetables (eggplant, zucchini and red pepper).” My notes: Les Vignerons de Tavel fermented, blended and bottled this cherry red rosé. Fragrances of dry cherries and a whiff of almost ripened strawberry make for the start of a freshening first sip. Tart and dry but round and flavours of watermelon, tea and cherry stone set up the taste buds for nibbling or dining: shaved meats, fresh oysters, fried octopus rings or pair with grilled sea bass, salmon, roast chicken or pork cutlet. I enjoyed letting this go off chill for a better balance of herbaceous elements and fruit in aromas and flavours. The finish is smooth, slightly chalky with a lasting warmth. A drink now. Ww86

SILENI CELLAR SELECTION CABERNET FRANC ROSÉ 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 13.5% XD, #599951 $13.95 (Tasted July 6, 2006)

A Vintages release on July 5, 2008 described as “Deliciously appealing pink ruby colour, this medium-bodied style tastes deep and earthy and just a little leathery with blueberries seemingly the dominant fruit until summer berries take over the finish. (Sue Courtney, www.wineoftheweek.com, Sept. 4, 2007).” My notes: Serve at or just above room temperature. The colour of crushed raspberries and an aroma that even some airing time could not rouse – perhaps a weak tea. Dry, tart raspberries and cranberries blended for a light fruit flavouring then finishing spicy on the palate with a smooth texture. Cab Franc lovers would find the raspberry/cranberry combination with the savoury edge interesting but it could also turn some sippers off. I’d call it an ‘acquired taste’ and not my preference for a rosé. Have with nibbles, a cheese tray or with shrimp/cream cheese and crackers and a good alternative for light meats: grilled ham slice and raisin sauce, pork chop and applesauce – was great with planked salmon. Cellaring for two years may introduce some herbal layers. Ww88

CAVE SPRING ROSÉ 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 12.3% D, #295006 $13.05 (Tasted July 6, 2008)

A General listing described as “Brilliant rose colour; fragrant raspberry and fresh picked strawberry aromas and flavours with apple notes; dry, light to medium bodied, finishes with crisp dry finish. Serve with cold cuts; fish soup; salad plate; grilled salmon burgers.” My notes: Grapes are from Beamsville Bench 96% (Cave Spring Vineyard) and Niagara River 4% and 67% cabernet franc is blended with 22% cabernet sauvignon, 7% gamay and 4% syrah. A delicate salmon pink shows brightly in a tulip bowl and aromas of strawberry with a watermelon edge greets the first senses. A sip is definitely dry, lightish medium-body, somewhat silky and full of freshly crushed strawberries. The fruit last for awhile until a dryness creeps in urging the next sip. A wonderful summer quencher served chilled with sweet Italian sausage or shelled shrimp both grilled and with mustard and tartar sauce, resp. This would substitute for a floral white for a flavourful whitefish or mushroom pasta entrée, scallops, or spicy mussels. Cellaring for a year would make sure this vintage is handy for your next summer get together. A value. Ww90

SALENA ORGANIC GSM ROSÉ 2007, Riverland, Australia, 13.5% D, #068908 $18.95 (Tasted July 1, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “Our Quality Assurance laboratory has determined that this wine contains 15 mg/L of free sulphur. Salena's family-owned estate winery modified their vineyard practices and launched a range of certified organic wines including this rosé blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. The 2007 growing season was very warm and dry in Riverland so the bright fruity flavours of strawberry and raspberry are very ripe. It's dry, medium-bodied and soft-textured with a crisp fruity finish you can enjoy all summer long.” My notes: A blend of 68% grenache, 24% shiraz and 8% mataro grapes from Riverland vineyards gives a deep cherry with a bright pink rim and fragrance of soft strawberry and weak tea. Medium-bodied with lots of drying tartness in the first sip with unripe berry flavours having a citrus, almost orange twist quickly followed by a tart, clay finish. The unique layering of flavours and dry texture may not satisfy some (my BH likes it!) – serve with cheese nibbles. A drink now - have with whitefish entrees, shrimp or scallops. Ww83

FLAT ROCK CELLARS PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario, Canada, 13.5% XD, #039974 $14.95 (Tasted June 30, 2008)

Released by Vintages on June 7, 2008 described as “The 2007 is a blend of Pinot Noir (that spent only 48 hours on its skin) plus a touch of Riesling and Chardonnay for aromatics and body. Very pale salmon-pink colour. Pretty aromas of delicate cherry, rosehip, red pepper jelly and cranberry dominate. Dry with a very nice mouthfeel supported by soft acids. This wine is a fine match for a variety of foods, including lobster salad, smoked salmon with capers, grilled calamari or pulled-pork sandwiches. (VINTAGES panel, April 2008).” My notes: Packaging could be better for this delightful rosé which shows a delicate salmon pink, bright and clear in a tulip glass. Serve slightly off chill to allow aromas of light apricot and faint rose petal to develop. A roundness gives an impression of sweetness in the first sip quickly corrected by a definite dryness and flavours of faint apricot and apple. The flavours are followed by an apple peel edge and smooth texture making this an interesting sipper, definitely dry. Suitable as an aperitif or serve with fresh oysters, a tray of mixed fruit: cantelope, red and green grapes, cherries and mild cheeses or pair with shrimp and scallop skewers or grilled telapia, bbq’d chicken or sweet and sour wings on a bed of basmati rice. Cellar for a few years could improve layering but check after a year. An excellent value. Ww90

GOATS DO ROAM ROSÉ 2006, South Africa, 14.0% D, #655225 $13.85 (Retasted June 29, 2008)

A Vintages re-release on June 9, 2008 described as “2006 [is] gorgeous top to toe; cerise hued, bright fruited multi blend; dry & food-perfect. Transports you to the Côte d'Azure. Rated 3½ of 5 by Christine Rudman, John Platter South African Wines, 2007).” My notes: Last tasted in April 2007. A blend of shiraz, pinotage, cinsault, grenache, gamay and merlot makes a varietal identity mute for this rosé. An aroma of sweat and cherry pits not one that would entice a sipper but so faint not to be unpleasant. The colour is a mid cherry red and a mild cherry flavour with soft tartness on the first sip. The flavour develops with thin cherry fruit, raspberry and cherry pits leading to a pithy, berry finish with no predominant sweetness. A passable sipper for a large crowd with a name that entertains an idle mind (not meant to be personal). Nibbles of mild cheeses to aged cheddars, shaved meats or broccoli flowers and dip or pair with chicken breast or creamy seafood dishes. A year or two ageing is possible but more of a commercial drink-now. Ww78

ST. HALLETT BAROSSA VALLEY ROSÉ 2006, Australia, 13.5% D, #034249 $16.85 (Retasted June 28, 2008)

A Vintages release on July 7, 2007 and described on the back label as “… brimming with summer berry fruits – strawberries, raspberries, blueberries – brought to you with refreshing acidity… “ My notes: A red cherry red with fragrance of crushed strawberries along with a raspberry or two. A lightish, medium-bodied, smooth sipper with a flavour of strawberries with a tart cranberry tinge or perhaps slightly unripe strawberries. A natural sweetness is nicely masked by the flavours and acid and leaves a silky finish on the palate. A sociable sipper suitable for a summertime refreshment. Have by itself or with a cheese and fruit tray, some light seafood nibbles, light paté or hummus on toasts or with a whitefish or roast chicken entrée. Last tasted in September 2007. Ww85

ZENATO BARDOLINO CHIARETTO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 12.5% D, #045203 $12.95 (Tasted June 28, 2008)

Released by Vintages on June 21, 2008 described as “The warm and moderating Adige River's course runs from the Austrian border through Alto Adige into Veneto, meanders right through the centre of Bardolino, and finally empties into the Adriatic Sea near Venice. Chiaretto... , an Italian term for rosé, literally means 'neither red nor white'. Made with the local Corvina and Rondinella grapes, the wines are allowed only a few hours on their skins to extract the pleasant pink colour. Serve this light and fruity wine with appetizers, cold cuts or pan-fried freshwater fish.” My notes: A peachy pink in a tulip glass and aromas of sweet cherries and a scent of roses. The first sip has an appealing nip and a dryness that precedes flavours of cherries leaving a long, smooth and dry finish. A sociable sipper slightly less sweet to be enjoyed by anyone in a mood for conversation. Have by itself or with shaved Italian meats, crisps with olive spread, anchovies on bagel chips or pair with planked salmon or bbq’d chicken. Cellaring for two to four years could prove interesting. An excellent value now. Ww89

MUGA ROSÉ 2007, Rioja, Spain, 13.0% XD, #603795 $12.95 (Tasted June 23, 2008)

A June 7, 2008 Vintages release described as "One of my favourite Rioja estates, Bodegas Muga continues to fashion traditionally made cuvées, but also has a foot in the future." (Robert Parker Jr., June 30, 2005). Made with Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura, this 2007 vintage is dry and flavourful with a bright raspberry and strawberry nose. A great complement to paella or pan-fried freshwater fish.” My notes: A delightful peachy pink but almost no bouquet, fruit or floral, until it goes off chill (12-15C) then a light strawberry and melba apple starts to show. Flavours are a tart pomegranate and rhubarb blend, refreshing, very dry with a not excessive but pleasing smoothness. The finish carries the flavours adding a bit of fruit stone as an ending. If you don’t mind dry then this could be a sipper, however, most would appreciate an assorted fruit and mild cheese tray. Save for tapas or fried squid or pair with assorted Mediterranean fish dishes. Fresh or saltwater: trout, arctic char, pickerel or perch, telapia or cod could be great companions as well. Not for the cellar – drink now. Ww85

WILDASS (STRATUS) ROSÉ 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 12.5% XD, #071712 $19.00 (Tasted June 21, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7, 2008 described as “This boldly unique blend of Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah is aged in oak for 16 months before bottling… Batches that are declassified down to the Wildass tier have been farmed to the same exacting standards that crafted bottles that fetch $45 per bottle [Stratus White and Red]. This is a rosé that drinks like a red wine. The Gamay-dominant blend reveals an interesting spicy and cherry nose that gains more oomph from extended barrel maturation. This seems fresher and [fruitier] than the 2005 Wildass Rosé, but still stands at the extreme edge of the rosé spectrum. (3½ of 5, Christopher Waters, March 31, 2008)” My notes: A bright red cherry red with cherry skin aromas, some clay with the fruit. Light and dry from the first sip with the clay persisting in the finish, cranberry tinged at the end carrying the dryness to the roof of the mouth and lips – a mild tang. Have with freshwater fish: pickerel or perch, trout or sweet sunfish. Served chilled on a hot day it’s an uninteresting cooler - adding a half shot of cherry cordial and crushed ice sets it up nicely – then it’s ‘wild’. Not a value. Ww76

HENRY OF PELHAM CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSÉ 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 11.5% XD, #685610 $14.95 (Tasted June 18, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7, 2008 described as “Henry of Pelham was blessed with an exceptional harvest in 2007, with each of their individual grape varieties meeting or exceeding expectations. Cabernet Sauvignon, the last variety picked, is showcased here in this fresh, crisp rosé. Floral and berry-fruit aromas emerge from the glass while flavours of cherry, rhubarb and lemon zest dance on the palate. This will make a lovely partner to grilled chicken or summer salads.” My notes: There’s a slight peach hue to this strawberry coloured rosé. The nose has a swampy taint even after airing. A soft texture with a drying impact on the palate and faint flavours of mineral tinged raspberry complete with some crushed seeds. The finish lasts a short while giving some fruit flavours that quickly fade. Not a sipper and difficult to suggest nibbles: garlic bagel crisps, shrimp ring or asparagus spears doused with a butter-herb sauce perhaps. Pair with grilled freshwater fish - pickerel or perch. Not for cellaring and not recommended. Ww74

MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 13.0% D, #559088 $16.00 (Tasted June 17, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7 , 2008 described as “Under the Ladybug name, Malivoire consistently crafts one of Ontario's most expressive and classy rosés. The 2007 vintage is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Merlot and a dollop of Pinot Noir. This refreshing, brightly fruity wine is delicious with prosciutto rolled in arugula leaves topped with black pepper, extra virgin olive oil and a shave of Parmigiano Reggiano, or even deli-style hot dogs with diced onion, Dijon mustard, and coarsely chopped tomato on a sesame-seed bun.” My notes: This has a light grenache hue and faint aromas of crushed red cherries. Quite different from the 2002 vintage based on pinot noir – more of a blend that's lost its identity. The flavours are delicate developing after a few sips as red cherry but less tart. Nicely rounded finish with the same delicate flavour, a light tartness with a stone fruit edge. Served slightly chilled it’s an innocuous sociable sipper for a warm afternoon on the patio. Have with salmon paté on crackers, tomato bruscetta or garlic stuffed olives. A meal pairing would be easier if tarter, something light: creamy pasta with chicken pieces or a chinese ginger dish. A drink-now. Ww79

'The Organized Crime' Wines: 8 Tasted of 8

2008-07-01T03:47:00.004-04:00

For this blog entry I’ve selected wines from The Organized Crime Winery, a small boutique winery previously called Pointer’s Hill Estates and located close-by on the Beamsville Bench in Niagara Peninsula. The winery’s website lists their 2006 vintage whites and a pinot noir rosé released earlier this year and they are now releasing their 2006 reds. Rod Phillips rated four of their wines in issue #8 of Winepointer – these are asterisked below. The winery was also mentioned by Gord Stimmell and Beppi Crosariol in their columns recently and the Canada Wine Awards 2007 winning 2006 vintage gewurztraminer is featured on the OntarioWineReview website.

Everything about this winery is charmingly hospitable as well as being very passionate about winemaking. As before, as wines are tasted they appear in bold. Cheers, Ww

*Organized Crime Gewurztraminer 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, RP90-93, Ww90 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $22.20
*Organized Crime Chardonnay Musqué 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, RP87-89, Ww87 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $15.20
*Organized Crime Unoaked Chardonnay 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, RP87-89, Ww87 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $18.20
*Organized Crime Pinot Gris 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, RP90-93, Ww86 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $17.20
Organized Crime Sauvignon Blanc 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww86 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $16.20
Organized Crime Riesling 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww84 - Ontario, Canada, #Winery $17.20
Organized Crime Viognier 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww82 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $16.20
Organized Crime Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww80 -- Ontario, Canada, #Winery $15.20

TASTINGS:

ORGANIZED CRIME RIESLING 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 10.9% D, #Winery $17.20 (Tasted July 11, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “Intense aromas of granny smith apple, jalapeno pepper. Petrol & wet clay notes. Faint spearmint leaf and hints of white mushroom. Medium-high acidity on the pallet, with juicy apple and citrus flavours. Offdry with a lovely mineral-rich mouth experience. A classic riesling. My notes: Clear and bright in the glass with distinct aroma of crisp apple when aired a short time. The first sip has a slight bite, light-bodied with flavours of granny smith apple, crisp and refreshing leading to a fruit and ‘wet clay’ finish. Not a spirited sipper by any means and lacking a wide flavour spectrum – for instance, I didn’t get ‘petrol’ nor ‘spearmint leaf’ and ‘mushroom’ – sociable nevertheless and improves as it goes off chill. A drink now - pair with lightly seasoned and grilled freshwater fish. Ww84

ORGANIZED CRIME VIOGNIER 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 12.1% D, #Winery $16.20 (Tasted July 3, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “medium-bodied, notes of candied pear, peach, stone and fruit blossoms on the nose. Well balanced with a medium acidity on the palate.” My notes: A clear blond with aromas of grapefruit pith lightly scented with meadow flowers. There is a soft texture to the first sip accompanied by a soft nip, the nip fading quickly leaving a granny smith apple flavour behind. Dry on the palate with bright, fresh fruit and a light clay ending. Serve well chilled for a sociable quaffer - have a tray of fresh fruit and mild cheeses handy. There’s a latent flatness as the glass warms - well made (imho) but I’d guess of fruit from young vines or a difficult vintage. Pair with freshwater fish grilled at high heat and served with refried beans - washed out with a grilled telapia filet. A drink now – not for cellaring. Ww82

ORGANIZED CRIME PINOT GRIS 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 11.7% D, #Winery $17.20 (Tasted July 3, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “Clean, subtle nose with some initial hints of fresia, bosc pear, apple, very mild tarragon. Off-dry sweetness, with a pleasantly fresh acidity.” My notes: A faint, crisp blond with a whiff of lavender on first sniff then a just perceptible pear. This gives a subdued first impression, a refreshing herb(?) tinged lemonade, a light texture, just perceptibly off dry and mildly tart and leaving a long finish of ‘that’ soft lemon flavouring behind. How many ways can I say ‘soft’? This could be served chilled anywhere without concern: as a first sipper or accompanying beverage with cold wings and onion rings – but keep opened bottle in a chiller. Pair with grilled scallops or breaded sole and grilled pineapple or peach slices - was great with bbq'd telapia. A drink now – not for cellaring. Ww86

ORGANIZED CRIME UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 13.4% D, #Winery $18.20 (Tasted June 24, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “aromas of stone fruit, banana and flinty mineral notes, and a subtle hint of buttery baked pie crust. Dry, lush and has a rich mouth feel.” My notes: A light golden colour with legs that slowly develop on the glass. Aromas are faint grapefruit pith and the first sip brings a soft nip with a nuttiness and lychee flavour. The finish carries the lychee flavour a long while with a subtle tartness and cream accumulating with each sip then ends on a clay note. A mild chardonnay, perhaps the Bench terroir – seems like there’s a portion of semillon in the blend. A congenial sipper although you may want a backup depending on the crowd. Pair with grilled freshwater fish or a light pasta dish. A drink now. Ww87

ORGANIZED CRIME CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 11.2% D, #Winery $15.20 (Tasted June 18, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “Clean aroma with lead pencil notes, and a hint of rose petal. Flavours of juicy plum, golden apple and golden raisin. My notes: A light blond colour with a delicate nose of spring floral and sweet stone fruit. Flavour of melba apple is very delicately blended with a tart granny smith. The finish carries mostly the granny smith flavour with its firm brightness ending on a mineral edge. A dry musqué with fruit sugars nicely balanced out of prominence by natural acids making this an aperitif or oyster shucking white. Have with anything fishy from battered halibut to planked salmon or from grilled chicken breast to pork cutlet. A drink-now or cellar two years. Ww87

ORGANIZED CRIME GEWURZTRAMINER 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 11.6% D, #Winery $22.00 (Tasted June 13, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “Richly aromatic nose of rose petal, lychee, green cardamon and beeswax. A youthful core of tangy green grape. Off-dry with a rich oily mouth feel and a gorgeous refreshing wave of acidity that cleanses the palate and lifts the exotic fruit and spice flavours. Long finish with floral and guava replays.” My notes: A light orange blossom fragrance with a sweet grassy edge. The colour is a light golden having a very crisp intro on the first sip – biting into a crabapple comes to mind - then it mellows to a round finish of lemon, pear and mild melon with a tartness equalling the sweet fruit. Serve well chilled and sense the changes as the glass goes off-chill. A sipper altho’ personally a tad tart - I would prefer it with fresh oysters, crab cakes, or bacon wrapped scallops with herbed rice – any shellfish, any way. The youthful brightness would gain from cellaring a few years. Ww90

ORGANIZED CRIME PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 10.4% D, #Winery $15.20 (Tasted June 11, 2008)

Described by the Winery as “Impressions of raspberry, wild strawberries and violets on the nose. Wonderful fruit flavours on the pallet. A great Mediterranean styled wine.” My notes: This has a mid-peach, summer T-rose colour with aromas that only come if let go offchill, some peach fuzz and cherry. The flavours are a delicate pomegranate, dry as the fruit and delivered with some smoothness. The finish is also delicate nicely balancing the tartness with fruit like sucking a fresh melba apple. A summer cooler to quaff - serve offchill or throw in some cubes and a liqueur of your choosing: peach schnapps or white crème de menthe for excitement. Priced OK for a light-bodied rosé, well made and refreshing. To me, if 'Mediterranean' but not a ‘Tavel’. A drink-now. Ww80

ORGANIZED CRIME SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada, 12.4% D, #Winery $16.00 (Tasted June 11, 2008)

Describe by the Winery as “Subtle hints of herb, lead pencil minerality and crabapple or green gooseberry in the mouth. Dry with the typical pronounced edgy suavignon blanc acidity.” My notes: A clear blond colour and distinct but delicate aromas of grassy gooseberry. Light legs on the glass foretelling a light cream in the texture with fresh fruit, some ‘crab apple’ tang amongst the berries. A refreshing sipper for a summer gathering, the finish being bright, fruity and long with a mineral note at the end. The acid balances the natural fruit sugar well. Have with freshwater fish although enough substance for garlic shrimp kebobs or bacon wrapped scallops – would be super with steamed lobster. A drink-now over the next twelve months. Ww86

'GlobeLife' Wines: 6 Tasted of 6

2008-07-01T01:38:00.002-04:00

Several years ago I started reading Beppi Crosariol’s column in the Globe&Mail regularly, clipping out the articles and buying a few of his recommendations each week. There were some mismatches but on the average there were more hits than misses between his tastes and mine. Then a few years back something happened. Selections were for wines way beyond my price bracket… rather orbital. Even recently prices continue on the high side and, since it's a national paper, many of the wine selections have been out-of-province or from distributors (case lots only, thank you). But I did read his column, ‘Stop and Smell the Bouquet’, under the byline DECANTER, in today's copy (June 4th).

I looked for the aromatic wines featured finding of the over two dozen general references only five were ~$20 or less. The article was slanted to wine lists of 'trendy restaurants' so whatever their markup was not factored in. Of the five found two were available locally and are asterisked below. Of the eight specifically listed at the bottom of the article all but one were within my $20 ballpark and four of these were available at local LCBOs.

That’s an intro to say this blog entry covers wines selected from Beppi’s column. Since the cited wines have no rating the assumption is they are ‘recommendations’… maybe so or maybe just marketing. When tasted wines are in bold. Cheers, Ww (G - General Listing, V – Vintages, O - Other)

*Darting Riesling Kabinett 2006, RP90-93, Ww91 -- V, Pfalz, Germany, #950212 $15.95
Anne Boecklin Riesling Schlossberg Alsace Grand Cru 2004, Ww89 -- V, Alsace, France, #061390 $22.95
*Creekside Estate Laura’s Blend White 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww88 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #053553 $17.95
Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling 2007, Ww83 -- V, Adelaide, Australia, #606269 $19.95
Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2006 VQA St. Davids Bench, Ww82 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #453472 $19.95
Hardys Stamp Series Riesling Gewurztraminer 2007, Ww72 -- G, South Eastern Australia, #448548 $9.95

TASTINGS:

DARTING RIESLING KABINETT 2006, Pfalz, Germany, 10.0% MD, #950212 $15.95 (Tasted July 7, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 10, 2008 described as “A great summer sipper or a good match for gourmet spicy pork sausages, this wine displays aromas of Asian pear, stone fruit, melon and wet stones. Medium in sweetness with a nice core of acidity to bring balance and ageability (3-6 years or more), this has a long, beautifully balanced finish. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008).” My notes: A light golden colour with a fifty-fifty grass and pear nose followed by light clover honey flavours, silky and refreshingly tart although the natural sweetness can’t be missed – a sugar code of 3 – 5. This is a warm afternoon lip smacking sipper, after the rush hour traffic is endured or relaxing with weekend neighbours on the deck. Have with a fruit and cheese tray or with nicely grilled garlic shrimp. Four to eight years in the cellar would introduce more caramel but if you like ‘fresh’ drink now. Ww91

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL RIESLING 2007, Adelaide, Australia, 11.5% D, #606269 $19.95 (Tasted June 27, 2008)

A Vintages release on March 15, 2008 described as “This Riesling is the wine that started Wolf Blass' regionally focused Gold Label portfolio. Vibrant and youthful, this beauty is pure pleasure with fresh lime, apple, and grapefruit aromas bursting from the glass. It's dry, juicy fruity with layers of mineral notes and a core of tangy acid. Brilliant now, it should evolve nicely over the next 5 years.” A Foster's Wine Estates Americas product. My notes: A light blond in the glass and aromas of slight yeast and apple peel – similar to a still brut champagne. A crisp mouthfeel adds to a faint crabapple flavour, a medium-bodied to light- combination. Finishes with a smooth, tart apple, dry and cleansing. Texture and body has some appeal as a sipper - better with pepperoni on Italian breads, bruschetta or pair with light seafood dishes. Cellaring may turn this into a value – not now. Ww83

ANNE BOECKLIN RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG ALSACE GRAND CRU 2004, Alsace, France, 13.0% D, #061390 $22.95 (Tasted June 26, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “The name Anne Boecklin, an historical figure from the 16th century who was important to early Alsatian winemaking, is a deliberate evocation of the feminine to represent the style of wine produced here. This floral- and exotic fruit-scented Riesling is ideal as a contemplation wine or match it to lighter seafood dishes. By: Cave Vinicole De Kientzheim-Kaysers.” My notes: A golden blond, picturesque with dew on the glass and aromas with more texture than fragrance, like peach fuzz, and similar to brut champagne without the bubbles. A brisk nip with highlights glistening on the tongue, medium-bodied and faint flavours of tart pear. The acidic finish cleanses leaving a metallic edge setting up the palate for the next sip. This won’t be everyone’s favoured sipper, better to have with fresh oysters, cold King crab pieces or pair with any seafood, scallops to salmon, or mushroom pasta dish. Ww89

CREEKSIDE ESTATE LAURA'S BLEND WHITE 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 13.0% XD, #053553 $17.95 (Tasted June 19, 2008)

A Vintages release on March 29, 2008 described as “Combines sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot gris, viognier, muscat and riesling - partially aged in older barrels for a touch of spice. Quite intense floral, jasmine and clove nose with vague yellow pear-plum fruit. Medium weight; viscous; spicy palate with some lemon-grapefruit on the finish. Very good length. 87/100 (David Lawrason, Nov. 20, 2007).” My notes: A light blond with a spicy apple orange blossom nose and the first sip shows a crisp texture, some tart apple and a lemon-lime edge, then a long, dryyyy finish. Definitely a mix of whatever’s leftover resulting in a neat summer cooler. Have with seafood or save for a warm summer day with a lime slice and crushed ice on the patio. Would be great with battered halibut and chips… or grilled whitefish with coleslaw and onion rings. This could cellar up to two years... but not improve. Ww88

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2006 VQA ST. DAVIDS BENCH, Ontario, Canada, 13.5% D, #453472 $19.95 (Tasted June 12, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 10, 2008 described as “Vintage after vintage, Château des Charmes proves it is one of the finest producers of Gewürztraminer in Ontario. They always achieve the perfect balance between Gewürz's 'orchid aroma' tendencies and fresh fruitiness. The 2006 also features lychee, musqué, and bright citrus fruit. It's off-dry, full-bodied with a round texture and a long finish. Pair it with spicy Thai dishes.” My notes: A clean and clear light blond colour with a light grassy aroma of stone fruit and lychee. Nicely rounded on the first swallow with tart melon flavours. The finish is fruit-based, medium-bodied and leaves a soft layer of melon. The spice in the first swallow fades to a light herb then further to a sweet grassy edge. Have with melon balls and maple syrup, crisp tempura shrimp and zuchini pieces also suitable with grilled lake trout or pickerel or chinese fare. Not for cellaring but could try for up to four years to see where it goes. Not a value imho. Ww82

HARDYS STAMP SERIES RIESLING GEWURZTRAMINER 2007, South Eastern Australia, 11.5% MD, #448548 $9.95 (Tasted June 12, 2008)

Pale straw colour; rose petal and lychee with a touch of spice in aroma & flavour; sweetness balanced by lime citrus finish. Serve chilled with spicy Asian dishes. By: Constellation Wines Australia.” My notes: A clear blond with a light citrus aroma if I use my imagination. ‘Rose petal’? Don’t think so. The first sip brings some sweetness with a light citrus and apple hints. The price and no real flaws makes this acceptable as a house white but have a backup in case a wine drinker shows up. Very commercial, slightly off-dry, on the light side of medium-bodied and likely for the North American market. Finishes sweet and no appreciable spice. You can’t beat the price, not to impress but to quench – serve chilled on a hot day and have with light seafood nibblers… an M&M shrimp ring or Alaskan King crab claws. Ww72

Stoney Ridge Luncheon, June 8th

2008-06-09T19:34:00.008-04:00

The staff, and I sense, the Winery policy is 'customer contentedness'. Perhaps there is a better word but until one comes along, I and my BH feel Stoney Ridge goes out of their way to ensure customer contentedness starting from the beautifully maintained gardens to their well crafted wines. Visit the Winery and see for yourself. Now for the 'Luncheon'.

The temperature was 32C on the back deck of the Stoney Ridge Winery and although the awning gave shade to the long table stretched for twelve guests everyone eventually showed the heat. What made it bearable was the delectable light lunch prepared by Stoney Ridge and the anticipated words from guest speaker Jim Warren.

The talk was a combination of many things. A history of grape varieties of southern Ontario - shared by New York state which continues to use many to this day - starting from early days of viniculture circa 1811, through the depression and post-second world war years when grafting of vinifera with resistant north american root stalk began as well as experimentation by newborn wineries with a succession of grape and wine styles, mostly labrusca-like and mostly sweet and/or acidic.

There were some rants about: the LCBO and about ‘glacial speed’ of government support of the Niagara wine industry, LCBO’s requirement for a financial investment in advertising or promotional material/events that give corporate wineries an advantage, and the disproportionate growth of import over Niagara product sales. Not so apparent was a criticism of or advice for the Niagara wine industry itself. Nothing was said about Cellared in Canada product urged by the industry and now a major impact on Niagara VQA product. The higher price of Niagara wines versus imports was attributed to the purity of product or the cost of ‘cool climate’ viniculture and perhaps a criticism of Ontario consumers for lacking loyalty or discrimination for local produce.

Jim was encouraged to write his recollections of Niagara and perhaps gleanings from his oenological 'digs’.

The dinner broke up shortly before 3pm for a taste of Stoney Ridge Icewine. It may not be apparent but I benefited greatly from the afternoon talk and some of the side discussions although I couldn’t contribute much. The wines served by the Winery and by Jim were co-ordinated well with both the courses and with the dialogue. Sorry not to have itemized the samples.

Many thanks to SR and to Mr. Warren, Ww