Comments on A Dress A Day: Dust Ho!

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2008-12-05T02:14:00.000-06:00

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<< Not trying to be snippy, just wanted to make su...

2008-06-19T16:41:00.000-05:00

<< Not trying to be snippy, just wanted to make sure the eras were in the right order :) >> Thanks, Sarah!

Toby -One third of women died from their dresses c...

2008-06-19T10:00:00.000-05:00

Toby -
One third of women died from their dresses catching on fire? That number sounds awfully high – I mean, if that were the case then one in every six people in the US burnt to death accidentally, and I don’t think even smallpox took that big a chunk of humanity.

Also, this is just my opinion, but I think the Punch writer was being humorous, but not ironic. Punch was both satirical *and* the arbiter of upper-middle-class mores - it's not like mockery isn't an effective way to enforce social rules.

I think the society Wilde was a part of was the Ra...

2008-06-19T09:43:00.000-05:00

I think the society Wilde was a part of was the Rational Dress Society (founded 1888); the Bloomsbury Group was early 20th century, and I don't think they were an official society, just a bunch of artists/writers who knew each other. Also, George Sand lived during the Romantic era, not the Enlightenment, which was in the18th century. Not trying to be snippy, just wanted to make sure the eras were in the right order :)

No that it is deadly (but could be) don't forget w...

2008-06-19T09:38:00.000-05:00

No that it is deadly (but could be) don't forget what the sky high heels do to the tendons, etc.

Speaking of dying for fashion - it's not like form...

2008-06-19T09:01:00.000-05:00

Speaking of dying for fashion - it's not like former times and other cultures have a monopoly on stupid fashion-related behavior. I wonder what the stats are on women who've died of skin cancer that they would not have gotten if they hadn't felt the urgent need to (a) wear skimpy clothing and (b) have a dark tan?

There are women who KNOW that their sun-worshipping could affect their health, and yet prefer that risk to looking pale.

As usual, these comments are fascinating and infor...

2008-06-19T07:08:00.000-05:00

As usual, these comments are fascinating and informative. I am particularly interested in these stories of women dying for fashion (literally). I'd love to read more about this; does anyone have particular books or magazines articles to recommend for further reading?

Oh! Thank you, Melanie!

2008-06-18T19:03:00.000-05:00

Oh! Thank you, Melanie!

Cookie--Napoleonic/Regency gowns were worn with sh...

2008-06-18T17:18:00.000-05:00

Cookie--Napoleonic/Regency gowns were worn with short stays. Those corsets provided support and the shaping wanted for the fashion silhouette.

The shaping wasn't as extreme as that achieved by Victorian corsets, accounting for many people assuming corsets weren't used.

In the age of the crinolines, at least two pettico...

2008-06-18T15:11:00.000-05:00

In the age of the crinolines, at least two petticoats, one under the crinoline, and one over the crinoline, and an ankle length pair of bloomers had to be worn for modesty.

I love these kind of comments Erin, (note the sarcasm) because I myself wear ankle length skirts! Punch magazine....gotta love it!

In the movie Cries and Whispers, there's a scene w...

2008-06-18T12:52:00.000-05:00

In the movie Cries and Whispers, there's a scene where a wealthy woman is undressed by her maids, and she isn't wearing any panties/bloomers under her slips/stays, etc. I believe those might have been a necessity with hoop skirts, in case you tipped over, but otherwise, I'm not sure that type of lower undergarment was worn. So....at least that would make powder room visits easier.

Patricia, whew. And "oh." That, um, makes more s...

2008-06-18T08:24:00.000-05:00

Patricia, whew. And "oh." That, um, makes more sense. I think I'm a little "troll sensitive" after recent unlamented events; I didn't want people to think I was making it up!

Eirlys, I actually have a couple of pairs that I have used for re-enacting; it's the only way to manage in a PortaPotty without pulling some major muscles!

And may I say that I am completely gobsmacked at the necessity for publishing the Royal Enclosure (heh!) requirements - specifically, about what needed enclosing.

And I'm sorrier than I can say, first, about all the folks affected by the Boxing Day tsunami, but that so many should have died for such a reason as that - so unnecessary. Like the ladies who died in the Shirokiya Department Store fire in 1933; they either wouldn't jump, or couldn't hold onto the ropes, because they didn't have undergarments which covered their privates, and were trying to use one hand to hold their clothes closed.

Clothing: not worth dying over, IMO.

It wasn't just the 1800s when women's socially dic...

2008-06-18T07:40:00.000-05:00

It wasn't just the 1800s when women's socially dictated clothing could get them killed, unfortunately. In the tsumani that struck southeast Asia on boxing day 2004, thousands of women were dragged under water by their yards and yards of sari cloth - and the cultural conditions that made it impossible to learn to swim. (No bathing suits, no women-only pools to learn in.)

Actually as gross as it is, the split bloomers sol...

2008-06-17T20:27:00.000-05:00

Actually as gross as it is, the split bloomers solves a mystery for me: how the heck you would use the bathroom in that battle armor of skirts, petticoats, cages, etc. when it seems that even sitting down was impossible.

OMG...split bloomers...public physical evacuation....

2008-06-17T14:55:00.000-05:00

OMG...split bloomers...public physical evacuation...interesting way to wile away a boring conversation in the merry olde streets of London, and no need to worry over the state of public toilet seats. HELP HELP HELP! DEAR GOD IN HEAVEN, SAY IT WASN'T TRUE! (So often I find myself thinking, "Now I've heard it all." I was sooo wrong!)

She smoked cigars too http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki...

2008-06-17T14:01:00.000-05:00

She smoked cigars too
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Sand

George Sand was a woman who dressed like a man, I ...

2008-06-17T13:59:00.002-05:00

George Sand was a woman who dressed like a man, I think during the enlightenment.

George Sand was a woman who dressed like a man, I ...

2008-06-17T13:59:00.001-05:00

George Sand was a woman who dressed like a man, I think during the enlightenment.

My old grey matter is only just beginning to warm ...

2008-06-17T13:59:00.000-05:00

My old grey matter is only just beginning to warm to this scatological theme... there was ALSO another cause for the filth around female skirt hems. Please look away now if you're of a delicate disposition.

Female undergarments were often split down the central seam (only held together by the waistband from front under crotch to back) so that a not-so-ladylike wearer might relieve herself (truly!) without so much hitching up her full, gathered ankle-covering raiment. Makes you think.

I thought of this blog entry when I heard the coverage of Ladies' Day at Ascot. If a barometer were needed to show that the British female no longer knows how to dress in sober fashion, it came today. To keep the female race-viewers in line, there have apparently been dictats this year about what must/must not be worn in the Royal Enclosure. Knickers (underpants) must be worn. However, they must not be visible. There is a prescribed length to skirts (a little above knee level, but well below the navel, as far as I understand), and a prescribed width to shoulder straps (a fairly strapping one inch, I thought I heard). Sorry not to be terribly precise, but I didn't find the story readily on the BBC website, though they were wittering on happily about it on BBC Radio 4 this morning (too early/pre-school busy for me to take good notes).

Oh, I bought a pair of the aforementioned bloomers once in a stack of household linens. Still have them - just to wonder at, frankly. Have been told they're quite collectable, and why not! These ones are clean, btw.

Whoa! Someone started a category for Butterick's "...

2008-06-17T13:08:00.000-05:00

Whoa! Someone started a category for Butterick's "4 Yard Line" (which Erin discussed recently) at Vintage Pattern Wiki! There are 6 examples so far. I must say, again...the line is sort of on the DOWDY side! (Or maybe it's the prints they use?) It looks like they recycled an idea from the Walkaway Dress into one of the bodices. I'm STILL a fan of 2241, though, and looking for it! Would be good in white linen with bright red top stitching and red shoes. I'm loving the wiki, because where else would we be able to research a collection of the obscure 4 Yard Line???

La belladonna: Anonymous was not responding specif...

2008-06-17T12:27:00.000-05:00

La belladonna: Anonymous was not responding specifically to your comment, but to the original excerpt that Erin presented here --from Punch, the London Charivari, which was a Victorian satire and humor magazine that actually poked fun at the upper classes. The "Long Dress Nuisance" is actually a piece of satire, so it's meant to be ironic. Thus, it is like something from today's Onion. I think that because of the proximity of Anonymous' comment, you may have construed it to be a response to yours, but I think it's supposed to be a response to the general discussion here.

Anyway, peace to all, and Erin: I love your blog; it makes my day!!

<< Together they founded a group/society that I ca...

2008-06-17T12:22:00.000-05:00

<< Together they founded a group/society that I can't remember the name of for the life of me. They promoted the Aesthetic style >> Was this the Bloomsbury Group? Incidentally, Liberty of London was a big supplier to fans of the Aesthetic Movement. They originally purchased their decorative fabrics from the Far East, then eventually began weaving their own when the market took off. (Or so says Wikipedia)

Anonymous, my information does NOT come from Punch...

2008-06-17T11:19:00.000-05:00

Anonymous, my information does NOT come from Punch; I'm referring to a fire that took place in Santiago, Chile: the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús caught fire during an 1863 church service, and over 2000 people died.

Beth, Heh. I'm hoping that's a compliment. I think the correct answer is "compulsion." I've been interested in historic dress/folk dress/clothing and construction since I was about six; I remember looking things up in the Britanicca, since it was all I had access to at the time. I have hundreds of volumes in my library, which is always expanding. If I'd spent as much time studying medicine, I'd be a neurosurgeon by now. C'est la guerre.

I recall being told that during the 1830s in the U...

2008-06-17T11:16:00.000-05:00

I recall being told that during the 1830s in the US, fully a third of women died because their skirts caught fire from cooking either over open fires or at fireplaces. The invention of the stove was a major improvement.

I made a long gown once. Sweeping the ground.I ha...

2008-06-17T10:14:00.000-05:00

I made a long gown once. Sweeping the ground.

I had to throw it away after one wearing.

So yes the women who conformed to the men's idea of modesty had every right to spend their husbands money on new dresses.

Show the ankles! Save the gowns!