On board Silurian

Wednesday 23rd July, 2008

2008-07-24T05:28:00.000-07:00

Date: Wednesday 23^rd July 2008

Anchorage: Loch Eport, North Uist

Position: 57° 33’.200N 007° 09’.500W

Distance Travelled: 36 NM

The forecast for today was optimistic, as was the outlook from the crew and volunteers, and we were all eager for some ‘swell’ surveying. The mist was still hanging around at breakfast but by the time we had made our way out of Loch Harport land was clearly visible. Two porpoises were spotted as we headed out the loch, a seal or two made an appearance and Phil did well in spotting a rather large shark basking to its hearts content. After that, the sea turned barren… And then Natalie spotted something… A cry of ‘Killer whales!’ came from the mast and a flurry of activity ensued on deck as everyone stumbled to get their cameras and focus on the fins.

There were 5 beasties in total and 10 beaming faces with grins from ear to ear. We stayed with them for a while, happily snapping and generally relishing the awesome sight [our photo-identification work has shown that these are all in the HWDT catalogue – adult males Aquarius and Floppy Fin, adult females Lulu and Nicola, and the snappily-named UK010]. The killer whales however, paid no attention to us and were far more interested in the delicious snacks that they were hunting. The only sadness in the scene was a lone guillemot squawking disconsolately – where were all his chums when he needed them? We had to move on but all eyes were peeled and ready for some more cetacean encounters. Unfortunately, all life seemed to disappear from the Little Minch with the exception of a lonely porpoise spotted by Coll, and the rest of the day seemed to turn into a snooze cruise with most of the crew and some volunteers having a well earned afternoon nap. We went off effort as we entered Loch Eport and enjoyed the glorious scenery with plenty of wildlife to keep us entertained. When we found a suitable anchorage (thanks Dave!) Susie and Coll decided it was the perfect spot for a swim, although Coll was slightly hesitant to actually get in the water! After deciding it was indeed cold, it was time for a delicious Chicken and veg (Quorn for the veggies) stir-fry expertly made by Natalie and Fiona and enjoyed by all. An evening stroll ashore followed and some reminiscing of the days events over a nice cup of cocoa.

Tuesday 22nd July, 2008

2008-07-23T02:33:00.000-07:00

Date: Tuesday 22nd July, 2008

Anchorage: Cabost, Loch Harport, Isle of Skye

Position: 57° 18’.100N 006° 20’.900W

Distance Travelled: 49 NM

We left Arisaig this morning with what looked like a promising start. On the way out we saw numerous seals lounging around on the rocks trying to dodge the rising waters. Just as we were exiting the channel we had the first sighting of the day – a basking shark off the starboard side and very close to the shore.

What a difference a day makes though! After the glorious sunny start yesterday, we spent most of today drifting around in fog and appeared to be sailing towards the end of the earth! The sightings were more sporadic and the conditions were more challenging at times. However, we still managed to spot a further basking shark, a few seals, a porpoise and a couple of common dolphins but unfortunately they didn’t stay and play as they obviously had somewhere better to be.

The main theme of the day was birds. We undertook our recognition training before we headed off in the morning and all set about putting it into practice armed with binos and a clipboard. This added an extra dimension to the spotting and to the trip. Very early on we spotted 2 bonxies attacking a tern, to steal its recent catch, typical behaviour of these pirates but something we wouldn’t have picked up on before. Throughout the course of the day we managed to tick off almost every bird we had learnt about and we had numerous kittiwakes joining the mission by circling the boat and keeping us company in the fog.

Despite the bizarre weather, we (well the crew anyway!) managed to sail Silurian for a large part of the day. This got reasonably challenging at times due to the wind direction and a trawler who seemed to try and chase us backwards!

Our home for the night was a town called Carbost, at the head of Loch Harport. We anchored, had a good dinner of pasta with mushrooms and pine nuts, accompanied by roasted vegetables. Then the majority of the team went ashore in the RIB for a pint in the New Inn, where we had a wonderful evening listening to an Irish singer called Gavin Moore, who we can all whole heartedly recommend listening to (www.gavinmoore.com, in case you’re interested….)!

All in all it was another good day aboard this fine vessel and although not as exciting as yesterday, our science team seem more then happy with the results. Roll on tomorrow!

Monday 21st July 2008

2008-07-21T13:35:00.001-07:00

Date: Monday 21st July, 2008

Anchorage: Arisaig

Position: 56° 54’.100N 005° 51’.900W

Distance Travelled: 30 NM

The crew; Captain Dave, First mate Paul, Science monkeys Susie and Cormac.

Volunteers came from the far corners of the UK; Coll, Doug, Natalie, Mike, Phil and Fiona.

We were to be Hollywood stars for the day, well at least cetacean stars of Scotland as we were joined by Natasha and Danny from the STV 5:30 show. It could have gone horribly wrong with rain and strong wind forecast which could have meant poor sighting conditions. However this was not the case and we had one of those lucky days where the sightings came in thick and fast. Within minutes of departing the quay in Tobermory Natalie sighted two porpoise and the cameras started rolling. Soon after we saw birds ahead and Phil’s keen eye spotted a fin in the distance. As we approached we were rewarded by the sight of two basking sharks who cooperated kindly during filming and swam open mouthed around the boat. After a couple more porpoise cruised on by Phil thought he saw splashes in the distance.

Phil is on his third trip with Silurian now, he loves it and keeps coming back for more saying he is addicted to both the unique scenery and wildlife. The splashes turned out to be a pod of 10 or so common dolphins including several calves one not much bigger than a ruler - a tiny wee dolphin – Awww! The dolphins were playful and bow rode with us for about 20mins obviously teaching the babies how to surf.

The film crew got right into the spotting and Natasha, the presenter, described seeing the dolphins as a once in a lifetime experience. She climbed into the crows nest for a better view and different angle and rode out the swells as we rounded Ardnamurchan point- the most westerly point of the British mainland.

Skipper Dave brought us carefully and skilfully into the narrow channel leading into Arisaig. Seals lazed on the exposed rocks, lounging, waiting for the tide to return. A family of otters, a mother and two pups, swam down the channel to add to our excellent day of sightings. The film crew waved goodbye as they departed by our tender and we picked up our mooring for the evening. The food this evening was excellent, we were treated to venison and vegetable casserole full of home grown beans and massive carrots. Its an early night tonight as we look forward to the continuing adventure in the morning.

The end of day tally of sightings stood at

Harbour Porpoise 17

Common Dolphins 10

Basking Sharks 5

Seals 3

(we also saw more seals and otters after we finished surveying).

Wednesday 9th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:05:00.001-07:00

Location: Loch Aline, Morvern Peninsula.

Position: 56 32.66 N, 05 46.09 W

Distance covered: 57.3 nm

It was on the good ship Silurian

The crew they cried in delirium

There’s porpoise here

There’s porpoise there

But Steve cries it’s the same one here again

While under stress doing last nights blog

There’s one event we failed to log

A minke we thought we may defend

As it approached the pointy end

But with relief it slipped underneath

While we returned up the sound

The crew expected minke’s to abound

Though seal and porpoise they were seen

The sea it was completely clean

Of any whale not matter where we sail

The ladies jigged on the Silurian deck

Those big waves they said “What the heck?”

The Tiller Girls did a merry dance

As to the mooring we did advance

While Glen played a tune under another full moon

The day it ended in Loch Aline

Noot a minke ne’er were seen

People gathered round the chilli pot

And ravenously consumed the lot

Exchanging tales of once seen whales.

Robin & Karrie

Volunteers

Tuesday 8th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:04:00.002-07:00

Location: Craighouse, Isle of Jura.

Position: 55 49.99 N, 05 56.49 W

Distance covered: 38.9 nm

Cormac has put us under duress while we write this blog as the pub is waiting for us all. Saw lots of seals, porpoises and minkes. Oh yes, and lots of birds. More tomorrow.

Robin The Forcedly Brief, Karrie and Sally

Volunteers

Monday 7th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:04:00.001-07:00

Location: Loch Craignish

Position: 56 08.12 N, 05 33.33 W

Distance covered: 65.8 nm

Today involved a long haul, starting out the day leaving Loch Moidart with a great deal of ground to cover. We headed west, sailing under the bitterly cold north winds, rounding Ardnamurchan Point, going wind over tide…which is always fun…marking down the many shearwaters that seemed to be enjoying the turbulent winds.

As we rounded the point, we headed down the Sound of Mull where the weather calmed. We didn’t get to see a great deal, but heard a lot of the seal scarers next to some of the fish farms. We exited the sound and moved south through the Firth of Lorn, before Skipper navigated us through the troublesome tides in the Sound of Luing and round the Dorus Mor.

We have anchored in Loch Craignish for the evening and have just enjoyed Steve’s wonderful creation: ‘Pork Gounoff’…or ‘Strogalash’ depending on who you ask. After the long day travelling, we hope tomorrow brings calm seas and lots of animals.

Cormac

Science Officer.

Sunday 6th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:03:00.002-07:00

Location: Loch Moidart

Position: 56 47.3 N, 05 50.1 W

Distance covered: 43.8 nm

As Cormac was unable to venture up to the crows nest to escape the creel calling he suspended it for the day. The volunteers were sad and morale was low because we could not count creel pots, but with stiff upper lip and tremble they sallied forth.

Due to the superior performance of this team of volunteers, the day started gentle with wonderful weather and beautiful scenery, which continued throughout the day.

Further down the river, Glen the Grey seal was just preparing for his lunch and had selected a juicy salmon for his feast. With great effort he manages to catch his salmon and was in the process of subduing his prey when the Silurian loomed into sight. Believing the Glen was snarled in a fishermen’s net and in mortal danger of losing his life. The gallant team stormed forth to rescue him. In the ensuing maelstrom Sid salmon managed to slip away and Glen posed grumpily for pictures with anger in his heart. The team sped onward.

All admired Karrie and Sally’s grace on the foredeck as they elegantly performed their spotting duties in heavier seas. With soup in on hand and bread in the other, prepared by first mate Steve from Sue’s (Steve’s stepmother) recipe, our two crew showed wonderful prowess and multi tasking as they drunk, ate and spotted cetacean.

In the interest of entente cordiale, this day became Scottish Food Day which included Porridge, potato and leek soup, drop scones, tablet, haggis, neeps and tatties. In the spirit of the occasion the American crew toasted the food with a wee dram, or as the Americans would say the nectar of the gods.

At the end of the day we anchored in Loch Moidart. The volunteers attempted to storm the castle but were repelled by the midges. On returning to the boat they found Steve flat out on the deck with his head down a hole. The day ended with the girls finishing the chores and reading a book, while the boys continued their incessant repair and upkeep of our floating hotel. Boys will be boys.

As the sun sets we can hear the seals singing.

Eldon, Robin and Karrie

Volunteers

Saturday 5th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:02:00.001-07:00

Location: Kyle of Lochalsh

Position: 57 16.7 N, 05 43.1 W

Distance covered: 49.3 nm

We left Kyle of Lochalsh this morning and headed out underneath the Skye Bridge into the Inner Sound, which separates the mainland from the Isle of Raasay. We were greeted by calm seas and sunny skies. We ventured north up the sound and were greeted by the sight porpoises and seals and of many, MANY creels. The next few hours were spent calling out the locations of these creels as shouts and cries (made with varying levels of enthusiasm) of “CREEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLL” rung out. Cormac headed up the crows nest to take advantage of the calm conditions and the relative silence above the heads of the hard-working, creel-spotting volunteers. He wasn’t up there long before a couple more harbour porpoises and seals were spotted and then sighted a large minke whale looming off in the distance in amongst the creel-buoys. He called out to alert the crew, but the whale, though large and over 2 km away, was clearly spooked by the volume of ‘creel-cries’ coming from Silurian and decided to dive and not come back again. Cormac’s credibility as a scientist and spotter were called into question, but soon enough he spotted another minke frolicking off in the distance and this time other crew-members made the sighting too to verify his manic observations. Sadly that was the last large cetacean sighting of the day.

We headed up to the north end of Rona before heading east then south, returning to Kyle of Lochalsh, not before another 300 creels were spotted and their positions logged. We finished the evening with a fantastic chicken curry prepared by Steve and a walk off to the Skye Bridge to enjoy the sunset. Tomorrow we head south and hope more sightings and less creels await us…

Cormac

Science Officer.

Friday 4th July 2008

2008-07-10T10:01:00.001-07:00

Location: Kyle of Lochalsh

Position: 57 16.7 N, 05 43.1 W

Distance covered: 49 nm

We left Mallaig a little before 10 AM and went immediately on effort. Just outside the harbour at the mouth of the Sound of Sleat, we were greeted by extremely calm seas and sunny weather. After sighting a few harbour porpoises, a call from Cormac rang out: “minke whale at 90 degrees.” Our skipper headed towards the whale, but then two more individuals were seen in different quadrants. We spent the better part of the morning trying to get close to one of the three animals, and, indeed, we were near enough to hear them breathe on a few occasions.

At length, we left the whales and porpoises and motored north on the Sound of Sleat. The scenery was extraordinary on both the Skye and the mainland sides. We passed

the Clan MacDonald Castle on the Sleat Peninsula. Susan spotted another minke whale at some distance, but we were never able to approach it very closely.

We steamed to Kyle of Lochalsh and tied up to a wharf on which was an enormous pile of timber waiting to be loaded on a ship. We dined at Gateway Restaurant to celebrate American Independence Day, in recognition of the humiliating defeat of the British and the first step in the collapse of the Satanic British Empire, which to the best of our knowledge now only consists of a small island on the prime meridian and a tiny Caribbean island, Barbados.

Several of us imbibed in a wee nip at the Lolchalsh Hotel before returning to Silurian, where we found our skipper waiting up for us like an anxious parent wanting to see his charges safe at home before he retired for the night.

Susan and Dennis Carlyle

Volunteers

Thursday 3rd July 2008

2008-07-10T10:00:00.001-07:00

Location: Mallaig

Position: 57 00.5 N, 05 49.5 W

Distance covered: 53.7 nm

Third day of the of this intrepid adventure and what more could we look forward after covering shark infested waters of the Sound of Mull and visiting the friendly people of the Isle of Muck. We all woke with a tight knot in our stomachs with anticipation …. or was it the thought of a lack of porridge?? Never fear Captain Glen was there, coming to the rescue. He cooked his mutinous crew their daily measure of the magic potion…. Porridge.

Settled with our daily rations and the sun peaking shyly behind the clouds we edged our nose out of the sheltered bay and out to sea. SEA? What had happened overnight it had turned to glass as far as the eye could see.

The glassy sea encouraged Karrie to be the first team member to venture into the crows nest. This was on the pretext that her burger for lunch had been placed there. Once hauled to the top she was left marooned while Steve was fighting the fire he had caused in the galley.

In the footsteps of both Steve and King Alfred, Cormac decided to create a new recipe of carrot and charcoal cake. Which was enjoyed by all the crew (especially with the addition of Auntie Bessie’s custard)….. yummy!!!

Oh yes; we saw 11 porpoise, 2 basking sharks, a minke whale and 6 seals, I think this is the role we were employed for.

Rafted at the end of the day beside 2 fishing boats; hot showers at the Fishermen’s Mission were promised, but unfortunately it has proved impossible to escape over these boats so we are stranded and smelly.

Current route for tomorrow is plan 35C and rising as quick as the barometer.

Karrie, Robin and Sally.

Volunteers

Wednesday 2nd July 2008

2008-07-10T09:59:00.000-07:00

Location: Gallachan, Isle of Muck

Position: 56 50.6 N, 06 14.7 W

Distance covered: 17.5 nm

We were awakened by the sound of the Captain making porridge. We left the anchorage under an unpromising, leaden sky. Cormac, having trained us in distance estimation, set us to work at the mast and the science station. The idea was that, as we sighted a marine mammal or shark, we would holler out its location and distance from the boat. On our journey to Muck, the sea condition worsened, and Cormac mercifully relieved us of duty. No mammals were sighted except for a few seals (?gray and/or common) in the harbour on the Isle of Muck. Birds sighted included Common Murres, Gannets, Greater and Lesser Black-Backed Gulls and Manx Shearwaters, and a Gray Heron.

While our captain, Glen, and First Mate Steve attempted a diagnosis of our windlass malfunction, we Volunteers went for a walk on the Isle of Muck. We walked for about 40 minutes to the south side of the island and then returned. By that time,

Captain Glen gathered us together for delivery of the BAD NEWS. The windlass was unrepairable. For the rest of the trip we will spend the night either at a mooring ball or at a pier, and we will have to alter our itinerary accordingly. The Volunteers received this news with grace and equanimity.

Following a delectable dinner of West 38^th Street pasta, prepared by Carrie and Robin, the crew and volunteers gathered for light conversation.

Susan

Volunteer

Tuesday 1st July 2008

2008-07-10T09:58:00.000-07:00

Location: Loch na Droma Buidhe

Position: 56 39.416’ N, 005 55.335’ W

Distance covered: 21 nm

At the end of the day we are sitting in the flicker of sunshine. However the prelude to the day was rain striking the hatch cover, well all parts of the day really and all parts of the boat.

Team set out to get the last vital elixirs of life from the local shop, wine, whiskey, chocolate and oh yes wine and another bottle of scotch (whiskey)…….

There we stood on the burning deck with water all around having the wet safety briefing followed by an even wetter survey briefing. The captain shouted ‘All ashore that’s going ashore’ we raced to the plank to escape but he had already set sail and the gap was widening. So the Silurian set sail into the West or it could have been East, North or South, we could not see there was so much weather.

The fool hardy crew sat on deck spotting cetaceans which numbered 5 porpoises and a seal. Under sail in gale force winds additional under water sea creatures were sighted through the cabin windows by the fortunate cabin crew while the crew on deck were washed across the deck as the boat keeled over both port and starboard, with the sail clipping the surf.

The cold mist came down in torrential sheets lashing across the decks and ricocheting off the crew member’s oilskins. Creeping into crews crevices while lashed to the deck. When all was lost…..the sun came out, the wind died done and we all sat eating a hearty meal

Karrie, Eldon & Robin

Volunteers

Thursday 26th June, 2008

2008-06-27T03:29:00.000-07:00

Thursday 26^th June, 2008

Anchorage: Tobermory

Position: 56° 37.200 N 006°03.900 W

Distance surveyed: 40nm

Another bonny sail – with the sun out and a fresh breeze, we were blown back to Tobermory, to a thorough boat clean and a lovely evening out together. Thanks very much from the crew to a brilliant group of volunteers, who were a pleasure to be with and show the Hebrides to. Come back soon!

The 20-hours-of daylight Cruise was brought to you by the following phrases:

- Uh-oh!

- Brilliant!

- Copious steam

- It’s brighter over there…

- Look! Blue Sky!

- Bacon or cheese?

- It’s a bonny day

- It’s a bonny sail

- Is the engine off?

- Is the alternator on?

- No gennie, no toast

- I can’t believe it’s still light at 11:30 pm!

- Thanks, Jackie

- What comes after S in the alphabet? Thanks, milk no sugar please.

- Creel! 500m!

- Throttle back please, Steve

- Uh-oh!

Tuesday 24th and Wednesday 25th June, 2008

2008-06-26T01:06:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 25th June, 2008

Anchorage: Bunessan, Isle of Mull

Position: 56°19.200 N 006°15.000 W

Distance surveyed: 42nm

After a week of dodging heavy seas, today was our day. Facing a tough forecast we had a long relaxing breakfast until the Americans and British began comparing the various failings of our respective health care systems. Now well-versed in the UK’s health service, we set out and raised our sails. As the day progressed, the weather report came more and more true and we quickly took down the sails and began motoring into a fine mix of wind and rain.

The crew, Jackie and Vanessa took the opportunity to stay on deck and learn again what if feels like to be cold and soaking wet. Tom, Regina, Dale and Gordon, already knowing what it is to be cold and wet opted to remain in the Saloon listening to Celtic music. As our last full day at sea, comparisons were made to our first day, and we can each declare we are no longer fair weather sailors.

Back in the calm waters of Bunessan (thanks Dave) we sat down to a warm dinner of sausage with a Mediterranean vegetable medley.

Cultural confusion of the day: Lady vs woman. All ladies are women, but not all women are ladies and Americans generally prefer women, while those in the UK opt for ladies. Lassies and Lads was agreed to be a cheerful way to avoid the issue.

Tuesday 24th June, 2008

Anchorage: Bunessan, Isle of Mull

Position: 56°19.200 N 006°15.000 W

Distance surveyed: 44nm

We’ve mostly been able to dodge a series of forecasted gales and near gales. A day of great weather in the south-eastern range of HDWT’s area of survey despite forecasts of more severe weather. While cetaceans sightings were limited to the hydrophone which is now working smoothly once againJ, On deck observers were kept active tracking and logging sea birds.

We saw all of our select species except the Skua and the Puffin. Of special interest was the mottled juvenile Gannet whose plumage was not yet of a mature bird. Guillemots and Shearwaters were seen flying together in a unusual behaviour and several Fulmars flew along. As we prepared for heavy weather, the Storm Petrels made a appearance living up to their name.

Kittiwakes made unusually frequent appearances while the Shags were especially prevalent at the entrance to our anchorage off the Ross of Mull --- at least one mischievous Shags was masquerading as a dolphin only to take flight just as the sighting was to be announced- saving our valiant Jackie much embarrassment

Tonight was the Captains dinner featuring his haggis , neeps and tatties along with an especially delicious vegetarian haggis followed by joke telling and a brief survey of politics.

Cultural confusion of the day: What is a ‘neep’ and what a neep is not.

Saturday 21st June to Monday 23rd June, 2008

2008-06-24T04:37:00.000-07:00

Monday 23rd June, 2008

Anchorage: Loch Tarbert, Jura

Position: 55°57.500 N 005°54.900 W

Distance surveyed: 56nm

Vanessa was initiated into the Elizabeth Arden Hebrides version of a mud bath while in the anchor chain locker stowing the chain., which came up from the deep with gobs of sticky muck. Others were on deck raising the anchor by hand, as the mechanical windlass had decided to take a day of rest—in spite of serious coaxing by Steve. We left Loch Aline about 8:30 with glorious sunshine pouring down upon us—yeah!

Our course took us south via the Firth of Lorn, via The Garvellachs towards Colonsay, with our final destination being Loch Tarbert, on Jura. Several porpoises were sighted as we made our way southward, as well a group of hundreds of kittiwakes circling above the water. The sunny weather held for magnificent day of sailing around The Garvellachs and along the coast of Colonsay.

In the afternoon, Vanessa ascended valiantly and celestially into the crow’s nest. “ It was a little bit like being a sail, rocking around with the wind, luffing, and flapping a bit.” Observed Vanessa upon her return to the firmness of the deck. A significant sighting of a bag of red rubbish was reported, along with two phantom fins that could not be confirmed. Her descent in the afternoon left her feeling exhilarated.

After several hours with the sails all up, we turned towards the island of Jura and motored to a lovely anchorage at the far end of Loch Tarbert. Vanessa and Tom prepared a delicious dinner of north and south Asian chicken-vegetable stir fry—a combination of Chinese and Thai cuisine, with Steve’s sauce created from scratch using various ingredients: lemon juice, soy sauce honey and sugar.

After dinner, around 9:30 we all climbed into the tender to take a tour of the second most beautiful place in the world—a cobbled raised beach which extended in a long gentle curve southward, and hidden lake further up. The soft light from the late sunset enchanted the photography buffs, while others searched among the pebbles for an entry into the “most beautiful rock” contest to be held when we returned to the Silurian.

With all closely grouped around the dinner table, and with the rocks displayed in a neat little group, Steve (the contest judge), began his careful examination of the stones. Two large and flat rocks were set aside as more or less out of the running early on, despite the interesting blotches and colours. He then focused his attention on a smooth, flat and nicely rounded cream-coloured specimen, with circular streaks of gray. Unfortunately for the person who submitted this rock to the contest, Steve discovered a slight rough blemish on one end, which disqualified this entry, even thought it was in every other respect a sure finalist. He next examined a small oblong rock that he described as resembling a Puffin egg due to the small white and grey spots (providing Steve the opportunity to digress into describing his experiences observing Puffin eggs, and allowing the considerable tension that had developed around the table among the contestants to briefly subside)—this entry was cursorily dismissed without further comment. This brought the judging down to the final two and the eventual selection of the winner: a round disc-like specimen with scimitar like streaks of some darkish mineral out of the long-forgotten geologic past. A polite round of congratulations and the group dispersed. While the winner, Tom basked in the limelight of his victory, others were left to quietly grumble about the obvious biases exhibited by the judge, who will likely not be invited to assume this position again soon.

After a round of hot drinks and a lively discussion about the politics of the day, all retired to their bunks.

Cultural confusion of the day: this damned computer doesn’t even know how to spell “color”.

Sunday 22^nd June, 2008

Anchorage: Loch Aline

Position: 56°33.300 N 005°45.300 W

Distance surveyed: 0nm

A pleasant day dawned in beautiful Loch Aline. Actually it was pouring with rain. The weather forecast remained dire. A democratic decision decreed a Rest Day, conjuring visions of a long read and an afternoon nap. Enter the Science Officer (whose other vehicle is a broom, but we love her) who refused to release us for a walk ashore until we had seen slides of grey and common seals and could identify both, more or less.

For your information: a grey seal looks as if it has been smacked on the top of the head with a frying pan. A common seal looks as though it has been similarly smacked, but on the front of the face.

Enter the Skipper who would take us on a short walk: one hour along the shore. And a very beautiful eight mile, three hour forced march it was, with many sightings of sea birds and a magical ruined castle at the end of it.

Home to a veritable feast of venison/quorn chilli and roast vegetables cooked by Steve. A really good day, and the Force 8 gale has yet to arrive.

Happy Birthday to Susie’s dad from everyone on the Silurian.

Back to work tomorrow …

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: A ‘fresh breeze’ is not a storm.

Saturday 21st June, 2008

Anchorage: Loch Aline

Position: 56°33.300 N 005°45.300 W

Distance surveyed: 83nm

A long day and a beautiful early start. Up at 6.00, breakfast on the hoof and Dale & Jackie’s bleary-eyed stumble to the mast rewarded by a very early sighting of two harbour porpoises right at the bow, so close that you could see their little white bellies.

A great day was had by all. We had eleven hours on watch, in a calm and beautiful sea and we could even shed a layer or two of foul weather gear. All was quiet and tranquil until Tom and Gordon (totally switched off at the mast and discussing North Atlantic Fishing Policies) let out a simultaneous strangled squeal. They had seen a BIG SPLASH caused by a BIG FISH or cetacean. What was it?? All except the Science Officer were absolutely certain that we had seen a breaching basking shark. Gordon & Tom sulked for about 3 hours when she refused to confirm their sighting, but luckily we all agreed about the next three basking sharks we saw.

Also, there was no doubt about the minke, a frisky wee creature, who behaved very oddly. A second sighting of minke was probably the same animal.

Tom, still slightly aggrieved at ever being questioned, took refuge in the crow’s nest, his paralytic fear of heights overcome by his desire to escape the doubting and brooding presence of the Science Officer. In the crow’s nest, Tom found the view spectacular, but his upper body totally immobilised by Gordon merrily swinging on the belay rope attached to his harness. Gordon, suitably chastened by Tom’s squawk of indignation, and still sulking about the basking shark, retired to bed.

By now, everyone was shattered, so we headed down the Sound of Mull in a totally flat sea to seek a safe mooring in Loch Aline. Safe from what? The weather forecast, which had pursued us like the Furies all day with dire warnings of Force 8 gales.

Late bed after a delicious meal of Dahl Baht cooked by Dale & Regina. Mention must also be made that Susie, who is actually a really nice Science Officer, gave a virtuoso performance of the scale of G on Jackie’s concertina.

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: None: we are a team and understand each other perfectly??

Friday 20th June, 2008

2008-06-21T04:57:00.000-07:00

Friday 20th June, 2008
Anchorage: Cragaig, Isle of Ulva
Position: 56°28.100 N 006°13.900 W
Distance surveyed: 53nm

We awoke to postcard quality views in every direction. The sun was out, the water glassine, and the wind still. We weighed anchor early and set out on our 53 mile journey. By 10:00 am we found our first squall, and the ever optimistic Americans aboard went fleeing for their extra fleece. Unfortunately, the seas turned rougher still and we had to suspend visual efforts for most of the afternoon. Yet hydrophone efforts remained active and we had a good day with many acoustic detections confirmed.

Spirits were kept high by the promise of Gordon and Jackie’s fish pie and our Solstice party, where our First Mate Steve brought a tear to every eye with a solo rendition of an Irish love song.

We anchored in yet another spectacular anchorage and our after dinner shore walk provided a nice stretch of the legs, in the long summer evening.

Kudos to the crew who made the most of a difficult weather day and the volunteers who each kept spirits high.

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: Americans were given a briefing on the proper making of a ‘cuppa tea’. Net net [hey, that’s a cultural confusion too, guys – we don’t do ‘net net’ – apparently it means the bottom line…]: please don’t confuse the kettle from the tea pot and use BOILING water.

Thursday 19th June, 2008

2008-06-20T01:54:00.000-07:00

Thursday 19th June, 2008

Anchorage: Isleornsay, Isle of Skye

Position: 57°09.000 N 005°47.700 W

Distance surveyed: 40nm

Weather remained unsettled with significant and quick changes. However, we each found the brilliant northern light captivating as it came and went with the clouds.

Generally, high seas and a ‘fresh breeze’ led to a difficult day to observe cetaceans with only two porpoise and a seal sighting. But still no vomit! Having had yesterday’s briefing on seabirds, today was the day to begin to identify them both in flight and on the water. Today we found gannets and guillemots. So today, we consolidated our observation skills and worked with data entry.

We had a pub dinner in Isleornsay, one of the western Scotland’s best pubs, with a roaring fire to keep us warm. After dinner we all sang with shape notes and joined in with chantey singing with Regina, Jackie and Dale filling the role of ‘chanteyman’.

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: That’s a ‘bonny boat’ doesn’t mean that is Bonny’s boat, instead it’s a very nice boat!

Wednesday 18th June, 2008

2008-06-19T04:56:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 18th June, 2008
Anchorage: Loch Scresort, Isle of Rum
Position: 57°00.800 N 006°16.100 W
Distance surveyed: 35nm

Whales, purpoises and dolphins – Oh my! A breakout second day of observations, with sightings distracting from the ever changing weather. Highlights were a pod of 15 common dolphins, accompanied by a mass of very excited manx shearwaters, first detected by the hydrophone picking up the whistles during Tom and Susie’s acoustic stop.
Jackie and Tom closed the day’s observations by hanging on to the mast with both hands and still seeking the next cetacean.—soon however the wind had morphed in to a simple gale complete with sharp and pointy rain.

In the end, we are still seeking summer while awaiting for solstice party- Gourmet food again tonight features Steve’s local free range braised venison.

Final stop at anchorage, Gordon lost in bath at youth hostel, found 45 minutes later trotting back to his lovely wife.

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: numbers and stuff: we (the American ones) say ‘dahhhdah they (those proper Brits) say DAYta

Tuesday 17th June 2008

2008-06-18T07:40:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 17th June, 2008

Anchorage: Loch Moidart

Position: 56°47.200 N 005°50.200 W

Distance surveyed: 30nm

Welcome to our new volunteers – Vanessa, Tom, Dale and Regina. from America, and Jackie and Gordon from Cumbria, onboard Silurian for the third time (welcome back!) – from this trip’s crew, skipper Dave, first mate Steve and Susie Science.

Tipping with rain yesterday, and still doing the rain thing this morning. By the time we set sail, it had cleared up, and a very bonny sail round Ardnamurchan was accompanied by all manner of weather – cold and rainy, warm and sunny, chilly and windy, all to the backdrop of stunning Hebridean scenery.

It all worked out better than the forecast had suggested. All held onto their stomachs despite the big swells round Ardnamurchan (although the odd precautionary bucket was handed round, but not used). However, it wasn’t great sighting conditions. Tom spotted a porpoise, but the hydrophone had to do the rest. Lots of seabirds though, including a great display by the diving gannet circus.

We were into Loch Moidart in the evening, to a beautiful luminous light across the hills and Castle Tioram, and a great dinner of cottage pie. It was still light when we took the dinghy across for a ramble round the castle at 10pm – midsummer in Scotland.

Anglo-American cultural confusion of the day: round orange plastic thing in the water: we say ‘boy’ they say ‘booey’.

Tuesday 10th June to Thursday 12th June, 2008

2008-06-12T14:07:00.000-07:00

Thursday 12^th June, 2008

Anchorage: Tobermory

Position: 56° 37.200 N 006°03.900 W

Distance surveyed: 32nm

FULL HOUSE! They saved up their appearance for our last day, and were nearly missed by the skipper who was too busy gossiping, but finally the common dolphins made a leaping, splashing entry into Silurian’s path. So, once we take into account the harbour porpoises, bottlenose dolphins, white-beaked dolphins, killer whales, Risso’s dolphins, minke whales, basking sharks, common seals and grey seals too, we’ve seen all the species we could reasonably expect to in the Hebrides. The first time we’ve managed it, at least since I’ve been Science Officer on Silurian.

We started out from Rum this morning, and though the sea was a little lumpy, the skies were clear, and our five volunteers were far too much the salty sea-dogs to be phased by a bit of sea. Our passage back to Tobermory, via Eigg and the Cairns of Coll, took us through some marvellous Hebridean landscapes and wildlife (not least the common dolphins), and back safely into Tobermory, to a heroic boat-clean and excellent meal out.

Many thanks to Jean, Barbara, Tony, Ted and Wendy for so much hard work and enthusiasm, and to my fellow crew members, Dave and Gen, who put in a good few hours themselves. And over to Tony for a final poem….

Shore-bound ramblings (with no apologies to he whose name cannot be spelt)

By Tony Wood

Twas an historic day in June
When the good ship Silurian
Tied alongside the harbour in Tobermory
Basking in a blaze of satisfied glory.

For the seasoned crew and the Earthwatch five
Had made sightings galore
To add to the sealife story.

For the seasoned crew this voyage in June
Was but one in an extending series
Seeking answers true to the outstanding queries.

We Earthwatch five must now bid adieu to the seasoned crew
Wishing well-deserved success to all your future endeavours.

Accept our heartfelt thanks
For the sealife and local lore
Imparted in harbours,
The cheers and the good companionship (how could we mutiny?)
And the consistent concern for our safety.

Tuesday 10^th and Wednesday 11^th June, 2008
Anchorage: Isle Ornsay (10^th); Loch Scresort, Isle of Rum (11^th)
Position: 57°08.800 N 005°47.700 W(10^th); 57°00.800 N 006°16.60 W(11^th)
Distance surveyed: 41nm (10^th); 36nm (11^th)

We left Canna after being stormbound for a day, during which we enjoyed hot showers and a delicious meal at the Harbour View Café. It was a bit lumpy and blustery as we set off under full sail with two reefs in the main. Everyone enjoyed truly sailing, and it was the epitome of sailing. We sailed around Soay, where Gavin Maxwell had his shark oil factory, using the relative calm of the shelter to enjoy the special bacon butties from Dave. Back out in the rough waters again we finally turned into the Sound of Sleat to run before the wind to the shelter of Isle Ornsay. Wendy demonstrated her expertise in the galley with sausages which were luvverly. There was a long walk to the pub for a short drink.

Morning was quieter and calmer; we investigated the dramatic Loch Hourn, brooding Byronically in the amongst the steel grey clouds. We saw many porpoises, and detected many more on the hydrophone. No sailing today but the scenery was magnificent. We headed for Rum for the overnight anchorage and are now safely stowed for the night in Loch Scresort. Hunters pie made by Tony on Jean was this evening’s culinary delight.

Thursday 5th June to Monday 9th June, 2008

2008-06-10T07:34:00.002-07:00

Monday 9th June, 2008

Anchorage: Canna

Position: 57°03.300 N 006°29.600 W

Distance surveyed: 0nm

We’re still here on Canna…the weather’s gone a bit wotsit, and we’ve been storm-bound in Canna, which hasn’t been too bad as it’s such a bonny island…But Tony's written a poem...

Ocean ramblings

by Tony Wood (with apologies to McGonnighal)

'Twas an historic day in June
As the good ship Silurian
Set out from Tobermory
To add to the lore of sealife glory.

The seasoned crew of three
And Earthwatchers five
Sailed with strong hopes of sightings (not whisky) galore.

The skipper was Dave
Strong and brave
Whose con of the ship
Kept it out of harm’s way.
No gold braid for Dave
But caps with an international touch
But not Dutch.

His duties knew no bounds
And when making his daily rounds
Was the call, welcome to all,
“ Bacon or cheese?”

Number two was Susie
Biologist and mentor throughout
Of whose knowledge of cetaceans
There is truly no doubt.
She motivated and encouraged us
Every bit of the way
And in spite of any shortcomings
I’m very glad to say
Her yellow jack boots
Came not into play
(except almost nearly when Tony took her mug…).

And then there is Gen with her pattering feet
Her smile with mugs of tea in her hand
Her strong anchor arms
Primed her camera finger
As the dolphins arched past.
And with her toe on the wheel
She will take us homeward at last.

Sunday 8th June, 2008

Anchorage: Canna

Position: 57°03.300 N 006°29.600 W

Distance surveyed: 36nm

…and it was delicious. Thanks, Ted. We followed our meal with a dinghy ride to the vast blond sand and cockle beach that doubles as Barra’s airport runway. Then to bed, cosy while the winds whipped round the outside of the boat. This morning, we were escorted out of Barra Sound by our bottlenose friends, much more relaxed and chilled out than yesterday, just keeping a leisurely pace alongside the boat as they accompanied us to the mouth of the Sound. Then we were off across the Sea of the Hebrides, leaving the Outer Isles behind, fixing our sights on Canna and Rum ahead. It was a beautiful passage, sailing gently along, in the sparkly sunshine, with the added entertainment of skipper Dave racing a kittiwake round the boat (the kittiwake won. Twice). We arrived at Canna to a delicious supper cooked by Barbara, and a visit from Maxwell, one of the Trust’s Directors, who is currently engaged in an intrepid rowing mission around the islands. After we’d eaten the bold climbed Compass Hill, while the dozy walked around the harbour to Sanday. A lovely peaceful day.

Saturday 7th June, 2008

Anchorage: Inner Oitir Mhor, Barra

Position: 57°01.200 N 007°24.800 W

Distance surveyed: 35nm

The drama of this sunny, windy day began just as we left the bay of Berneray and spotted a basking shark. Things could only get better, and we spotted a minke followed by around a dozen marvellous Risso’s dolphins, all galloping gracefully through he waves.

We rounded the southern headland to face the most enormous cliffs, all heavily populated by fulmar about to take off for the day’s hunting. It was a diabolical job for those on data, trying to plot vast chunks of fulmar life, along with hundreds of guillemots which had come along for the fun

We enjoyed the glorious scenery of the western side of this string of islands before reaching the Sound of Barra. We cast Barbara aloft to the crowsnest to keep a weather eye out for a group of dolphin said to be resident here, and it was not long before we spotted around a dozen bottlenose, all leaping and plunging around the boat. It was so brilliant that we turned around and came back for more.

We are now sheltering from a threatened gale in the bay by the airfield on Barra, and will soon be enjoying Greek food prepared by Chef Ted.

Friday 6th June, 2008

Anchorage: Berneray

Position: 56°47.300 N 007°37.600 W

Distance surveyed: 50nm

Today began with a pre-breakfast dinghy ride round Gunna. Some quite massive grey seals popped up beside the RIB, eider duck paddled in the shallows, and two resident basking sharks basked.

Once Silurian’s anchor was up it was off down the east side of Tiree and before long we were in Basking Shark City. First they came first in ones and twos, then by the half dozen. The sea, which by this time had become grey, glassy and ripple-less, featured flapping fins and switching tails in every direction.

The weather forecast predicted a day of gentle winds so Silurian turned right and headed out across the Sea of the Hebrides. The sky and the sea turned from grey to blue. Gannets, guillemots, razorbills, puffins, kittiwakes, even the odd skua, but especially storm petrels, accompanied our departure from the Inner Hebrides.

We left them behind as Tiree faded slowly into the haze astern, and more and more of Berneray, the very southernmost of the all the Western Isles, rose inch by inch up over the horizon ahead of us.

Four white-beaked dolphins appeared. We followed them for a while at a discrete distance but our interest in them was not reciprocated, so we resumed our Westward course. Several big grey seals appeared and then a lone minke whale but these were forgotten as soon as they were noted because suddenly there were small groups of white beaks surfacing and breaching almost everywhere you looked.

Much logging, recording and photographing was done and then we headed to an anchorage for the night off the north side of Berneray. After tea we climbed the six hundred feet up to the lighthouse, which overlooks sheer rock cliffs of indescribable splendour.

Thursday 5th June, 2008

Anchorage: Gunna Sound

Position: 56°33.700 N 006°42.700 W

Distance surveyed: 43nm

Oh wow! Wow! Wooooooooow! It was Gen’s birthday, so the animals made her day. We started with seals before breakfast as we went for a trip ashore on Ulva first thing this morning. Wendy collected lots of botanical specimens, and we all loved the beautiful little sandy pools and bays full of tiny fishes. After some more idiosyncratic porridge, we were off. Barbara went up the crow’s nest in perfect conditions, but no luck with the spotting. Then we dropped anchor and went ashore on Lunga to hang out with the wildlife – puffins, of course, but also fulmars, ringed plovers, shelduck, kittiwakes, pipits, an orgy of shags, heath-spotted orchids and some very cute fluffy baby bunny wabbits aahhhhhhh. As we got back to Silurian, some of the local tour boats were talking about killer whales on the VHF. So off we went to have a look and see if we could photo-identify them. This bit’s really exciting. The tension’s mounting. Are you excited? OK, well, we found them. But not before we’d seen a very large basking shark as we surveyed along our route. First we spotted a large male killer whale, then two smaller animals – either juveniles or females – a couple of miles off Iona. Then we lost them for a bit, and re-spotted them quite a way away towards the Treshnish. But this time there were four of them – 2 males and 2 females/juveniles. The first encounter had been quite short, so we couldn’t tell if it was the same animals. We’ll have to look at the photos in greater detail to find out. The second encounter was great. It was the first time most of us had ever seen killer whales, and there they were surfacing right by the boat. Many many times better than you ever think they’re going to be. All a bit pooped out by massive black-and-white-dolphin-action, we had a mercifully uneventful journey across towards Gunna Sound, where we were greeted by the world’s smallest minke whale, and a little posse of basking sharks. We had a little birthday celebration for Gen in the evening, complete with the brownies that had managed to get in and out of the oven unscathed, despite the rocky-rolly boat (the soup had not fared so well…). We ended the day watching out of Silurian’s windows as a couple of basking sharks wound their way lazily around our anchorage.

Tuesday 3rd and Wednesday 4th June, 2008

2008-06-04T13:22:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 3^rd June, 2008

Anchorage: Bunessan

Position: 56°19.200 N 006°15.200 W

Distance surveyed: 28nm

The start of a new Earthwatch trip. Lovely to be in Tobermory and in brilliant weather, too. That was yesterday afternoon; today hasn’t been quite so brilliant. We started out with a forecast (thanks to the Clyde coastguard, who sounds like Sean Connery reading an obituary) of moderate winds and a medium-type sea with the breeze backing from SW to SE, but the wind strength increased and it was decided to turn into Bunessan Bay for a peaceful night (we hope).

The crew this time is Dave, skipper, Gen, first mate, and Susie, science officer, with volunteers Jean, Barbara, Christa, Wendy, Ted and Tony. Ted has been here before, three times, and Wendy was here last year. For Jean, it as been a wonderful experience to be on the foredeck for the first time, and Barbara has served time at the helm. Sadly, Christa, Wendy and Jean went down with the dreaded seasickness, but all were pretty fit again by tonight, and enjoyed Susie’s version of spaghetti Bolognese, with a bit of last night’s chilli to give it a kick.

This morning was taken up by waiting for the vegetable delivery and by a long and informative tutorial by Susie on whale and dolphin identification. We finally got away around noon, and enjoyed sparkling sunshine most of the way, and magnificent views of the Treshnish Islands, which has one islet called the Dutchman’s Cap, and at this point Ted has tried to get me to change that to a rude name, which I won’t do because this is a family blog. The sun is now going down over the sea and this humble little harbour is a lovely, peaceful place for the night.

PS We’ve had ten porpoise detections today.

Wednesday 4th June, 2008

Anchorage: Cragaig, Isle of Ulva

Position: 56°28.100 N 006°13.900 W

Distance surveyed: 31nm

So here we are in Cragaig, Isle of Ulva, trying to remember what happened this morning, which seems a really long time ago. We can remember Barbara’s porridge though, which was idiosyncratic but delicious. Today has been bird spotting day. Have we got our Brownie seabird-watching badges? Science Officer says ‘very good but room for improvement (always)’. Today’s top-scorer was the wonderful guillemot of which we saw thousands and thousands and thousands – ish. All easily recognisable by their manic ‘guilly-guilly-guilly’ flapping (well, it works for Barbara anyway). It’s been windy again today, which means it’s been hard to spot anything, but has resulted in some lovely sailing. And spectacular views of Mull, especially Ben More. Skipper Dave also spotted a torpedo-speed basking shark shooting under the boat near Staffa.

We’ve been well-sustained all day by the skipper’s bacon sarnies, the science officer’s soup and Wendy’s brilliant chicken stew, and are now sitting comfortably digesting, and dozing off after a hard day’s spotting, as conversation strays onto the difficulties of selling pigs due to Health and Safety regulations, and what you get if you genetically engineer a cow and sheep and a goat (answer: the milky baaa kid). It’s been a long day…

Wednesday 28th may 2008

2008-05-30T03:22:00.000-07:00

Anchorage: Loch Moidart, Ardnamurchan

Position: 56° 47.2’ N, 05° 49.5’ W

Distance Travelled: 45 nm

By the time of writing this, all the authors had drunk half to a full bottle of wine each…

Today, unfortunately, we didn’t see a great deal (Editors Note: Gemma & Kate saw seals). Overcast skies and choppy seas didn’t make for great sightings conditions but today was filled with tiny successes. Gareth managed to fit 3 rich tea biscuits in his mouth in one go... but couldn’t talk while trying to eat said 3 biscuits. Meanwhile Kat managed to name only 3 of 5 vowels….but ultimately failed to figure out what histrionics is…the study of historic electronics. Cormac’s middle name was revealed as Gemma….no wait, Graham. Also of note, a cracking Highlanders Hotpot was knocked up by Tamara, Steve, Gemma and Christian and enjoyed by all. Tonight we anchor (we hope) in Loch Moidart with just the short journey back to Tobermory tomorrow. Hopefully a few whales to bring us home…

Bizarrely, the trip was summed up by the crew in the following words:

CREEEEEEL!!!! Like, totally! HAALLO! DEET. Naan. Funkytown! CREEEEEL!!

All the Volunteers