On board Silurian

30th June 2009

2009-07-01T01:57:00.001-07:00

Tuesday 30th June 2009
Location: Tobermory Bay
Position: 56°37.240N 06°04.038W
Distance travelled: 30 miles

It would have been too much to ask for ANOTHER fantastic day, so nobody was dissapointed when we didn't have any sightings in our trip from Hough Bay back to Tobermory via Hawes Bank. The sea state had picked up slightly, making observing conditions a little more difficult to spot the elusive porpoise or even anything larger. We did spot plenty of seabirds and the scenery as usual was amazing. Once in Tobermory we all mucked in to scrub the boat clean then had a few hours to clean ourselves up and go buy some Tobermory malt or some chocolate from the chocolate factory. We then all had a fabulous farewell meal at the Western Isles hotel. After a few wee drams and a good nights sleep we were on our way. The whole trip was such fun, 10 times what was expected!

29th June 2009

2009-06-30T05:23:00.000-07:00

Date: 29th June 2009
Location: Hough Bay, Isle of Coll.
Position: 56°37.534N 006°37.315W
Distance travelled: 53.4 miles

Today was a rather uneventful day (LOL, only 22 sightings as opposed to 50 the other day!). We set sail to some windy and slightly rainy weather. Dressing in our foul weather gear we powered forward into a cold blustery sea. Just as we were thinking our trip could not get any better than the previous days encounters we came into sight of 2 bottlenose dolphins. Our first sighting of the day! They were off in the distance but very special just the same.

Sailing onwards the seas calmed, the sun peaked out allowing us to view at three different locations upwards of 30 basking sharks. Most were feeding and some with a bit more energy were breeding! We saw juvenile basking sharks and large adults. All different sizes to be had.

Amazing as all this sounds it gets better folks. Off in the distance was an animal rarely seen in these parts large as a bus with a very distinctive blow. It was an adult Humpback whale!! He seemed amused by our presence and milled about the boat. What a great sight. Cameras were clicking away and batteries getting low as we shot away. Halfway into this encounter a Minke whale appeared from nowhere. More photographs taken and data logged into the onboard laptop computer. The humpback allowed us the view him for more than an hour before we moved on our way. We saw 3 Minke’s this day along with 6 Harbour porpoise and 7 Seal sightings.

All that is left for a us now is the see the resident Orca clan that roams these islands…check in tomorrow to see how we do.

28th June 2009

2009-06-30T05:20:00.000-07:00

Date: Sunday 28th June 2009
Anchorage: Little Kettle Pool, Loch Skiport, North Uist.
Position: 57°19’533N 007°14’918W
Distance travelled: 49.7 miles

Leaving Ensay in the sound of South Harris we sighted a Basking shark with an uncharacteristic curled over dorsal fin, this was soon followed by a second Basking shark. Leaving the sound we entered the Sea of the Hebrides and met a friendly Minke whale that approached our boat and allowed us to see its white flippers under the surface of the water. Throughout the day we sighted two other juvenile Minke whales, a pod of 25 short beaked common dolphins that swam our bow wave and around us for several minutes. The Dolphins were feeding with diving Gannets and the hydrophone picked up whistles and clicks. Also sighted were numerous seals and juvenile Puffins (along with many other seabird species) and twelve Harbour porpoise sightings. Also sighted were numerous moon and lions mane jelly fish. The sea was in most cases mirror calm with shades of grey and blue. The day ended with a silvery entrance and mooring in Little Kettle Pool of Loch Skiport of the Isle of South Uist. This is a beautiful rocky island with a great collection of birds.

27th June 2009

2009-06-27T15:17:00.000-07:00

Date: 27th June 2009
Anchorage: Isle of Endsay, Sound of Harris
Position: 57°46.266N 007°05.612W
Distance surveyed: 60 miles

Not long after we set off from the Monach Isles there was great excitement as we had our first site of a Minke whale, which was just the start of a very special day where we were bombarded by sighting after sighting of cetaceans. The sight tally resulted in a total of 27 grey seal, 15 harbour porpoise, 5 dolphin and 3 Minke whale. One particular dolphin encounter had the dolphins very close to the boat and riding the bow wave alongside us, an amazing and privileged experience. The number of sightings was due in some part to the calmness of the sea today, it was like a mirror, but mainly to the improving ability of the volunteers and of course the crew.

Our route today took us out to Whale rock where we saw, surprise, surprise; a Minke Whale. Not only that but we were so inundated with numerous other cetacean sightings it was near impossible to get them all registered but being the fab crew we are everything seen was duly entered.

Today was also an excellent day for bird spotting and being not 15 miles from St Kilda we saw lots of Puffins and Gannets.

We are now anchored watching a fabulous sunset in one of the most spectacular locations in the whole of Scotland, the Sound of Harris.

26th June 2009

2009-06-27T11:39:00.000-07:00

Date: Friday 26th June 2009

At first there was a brisk wind but glassy wavelets. A Minke whale gave us a great show as he came to the surface near the boat twice – once to hear his blow and another to smell his breath. We kept him in sight for over 15 minutes. (There may have been two, but Lewis will have to check the photos.) Large number of birds flew by – graceful gannets up to a dozen at a time and flocks of guillemots of up to thirty. After lunch a great skua encircled the boat looking as if he might land on the boat back but decided better of it. The next several hours saw few birds, several grey seal heads and one porpoise. (Porpoise detection showed on the hydrophone data.).
We landed on Monarch Islands to flocks of sheep, rebuilt/ruined houses, and wild flowers – buttercup, daises, but the thistle was only in bud. The islands were inhabited for 100 years, then off and on due to soil erosion and troubles until all left slowly by attribution in the mid 1930’s. Two large white swans dived eating in a pond along with a female duck followed by seven chicks in a line behind. Fulmers nest here in the low rock walls and sand dunes because there are no trees. Terns swooped and oyster catchers scolded. Dozens of grey seals popped up, all looking our way, wary when the skipper stopped the motor and drifted. Lewis went in with a dry suit and viewed three to four at a time swimming under the boat. It was fascinating to see their heads well above the water and then all dive in unison. It was a truly gorgeous evening with radiant sun beams and on-off clouds. Chust sublime.

25th June 2009

2009-06-26T05:48:00.000-07:00

Date: Thursday 25th June 2009
Anchorage: Vatersay Bay
Position: 56°55’479 North 07°31’962 West
Distance travelled: 62.4 miles

Today we headed out on some fairly rough seas not knowing if we would see anything or not. It was not too long however when we saw our first seal. The skies gradually turned blue and we were greeted by calmer waters. Not too long after that the crew had spotted the first of perhaps a group of 15 Basking Sharks! Luckily Captain Dave held his ground as we all funnelled to the far side of the boat for a look! Someone had to keep the boat from tipping! We sat amongst the group for perhaps 30 minutes as the sharks milled about feeding. More than happy with this sighting we moved on to our destination of Vatersay Bay wondering what might be next…well next was a large group of Risso’s Dolphins…somewhere between 15-17 strong. Some were breaching and just playing about. We were lucky enough to get some good recordings with the ships Hydrophones. A fun time had by all..humans and dolphins alike.

It was now time to find our lagoon at Vatersay Bay. We were escorted in by many birds on the way in as they were returning to their places of rest for the night as were we. We are now anchored in this picture postcard of a lagoon for a good nights sleep. 10 plus hours of data collected today. It was a good one!

24th June 2009

2009-06-26T05:46:00.000-07:00

Date: Wednesday 24th June
Anchorage: Feall Bay, Coll.
Postion: 56°35’630N 06°39’863W
Distance Travelled: 23.1 miles.

Set off from Tobermory early afternoon, the volunteers immediately started their first surveys and recording of data and an hour later had the first sighting of a Minke whale, swiftly followed by a Harbour porpoise and a very brief glimpse of a Grey seal (all spotted by the crew, better luck tomorrow for the volunteers).

The day has been calm and sunny and visibility high. The remaining afternoon was spent searching and a second porpoise was seen late in the afternoon and we also saw plenty of seabirds, until finally arriving into our harbour for the night.

The location is extremely beautiful, the day was ended with walk along the island beach where we watched a most wonderful sunset.

Editors (Marine Biodiversity officers) notes: To top this all off we had a close otter sighting whilst on anchor and the sun turned the most crimson red.

18th June 2009

2009-06-18T12:45:00.000-07:00

Date: Thursday 18th June
Anchorage: Loch Aline, Morvern Peninsula
Position: 56°33’.357N, 05°45’.152W
Distance Travelled: 45.6NM

Day 9: After another night of rain, we were very happy to see the sky clearing while we were preparing to go on effort. The plan was to survey south of Mull, but weather decided differently. There were too many rolling waves and swell, so we were guided to travel via the north, going into the Sound and eventually we ended up anchored with double anchor in Loch Aline. Most of the day we had excellent sailing weather, enjoyed by everybody while conditions were too rough to survey. Preparation of second breakfast, lunch and teas were very challenging! Again, just a single sighting of a harbour porpoise, although we did have some detections. Some heavy but very wet showers hit us on the way, but Jane made sure at least she – and her hair - stayed dry, confiscating everybody else’s hat. With even more gale warnings on the latest weather forecast, we were not able to go ashore. Instead we discussed photo-identification methods, skipper explained navigation by ‘cardinal boys’ and baking recipes were once more used this week.

17th June 2009

2009-06-18T12:43:00.000-07:00

Date: Wednesday 17th June
Anchorage: Bunessan, Isle of Mull
Position: 56°19’.248N, 06°15’.007W
Distance Travelled: 45.0NM

Day 8: We left Rum a bit later than usual under heavy gray skies. As we travelled between Eigg and Rum, limitless amounts of Manx Shearwaters gracefully glided above the waves. A single harbour porpoise was seen and we had several acoustic detections. Even though the weather was better than expected, the sea state made it difficult to see anything (if there was anything to see). We anchored for the evening near Bunessan, Mull and had a wonderful birthday supper celebration for Doris. She was also surprised with a card and delicious cake. A trip ashore to the Argyll Arms pub was a good way to relax after a rolling day at sea. Although a bit less relaxed for the ones still discovering ticks.

16th June 2009

2009-06-17T04:59:00.000-07:00

Date: Tuesday 16th June
Anchorage: Loch Scresort, Rum
Position: 57°00’.831N, 06°16’.096W
Distance Travelled: 48.6NM

Day 7: Today started dull and gray as we left our anchorage and went in search for the Barra Boys, a group of bottlenose dolphins that inhabit this area. No luck, so we sailed back across the Sea of the Hebrides. Other than birds, nothing was seen. We sailed by the north side of Canna and around the west side of Rum. The first and shortest sighting of the day was a single common dolphin which passed right by the stern in the opposite direction. The anchor was dropped in Loch Scresort, Rum and fantastic supper of haggis, neaps and tatties. Several hours were spent on shore, whether it was exploring the landscape or worshiping indoor plumbing, with unlimited amounts of hot water. Kinloch Castle pub was our rendezvous for the evening, with world class thumb war champion, Esme, crushing all competition. Once back onboard, hot drinks and bedtime brownies were supplied as another fantastic day drew to a close.

15th June 2009

2009-06-17T04:53:00.000-07:00

Date: Monday 15th June
Anchorage: Sgeirislum island (north-east Barra)
Position: 57°00’.228N, 007°22’.459W
Distance travelled: 54.2NM

Day 6: The insanity continues with another spectacular day in the Hebrides. Seals, minke’s, porpoises, and several close encounters with basking sharks. Sun, sea, and sky in wonderful combination. Jane had a nap in the crow’s nest (and was rudely awoken for no apparent reason in her opinion) and we might possibly have seen a turtle. Although some extra effort was put in re-finding the turtle, all we saw in that position was a grey seal..... will remain a mystery. One never knows what might happen! We arrived in the Outer Hebrides, near the Isle of Barra. A trip ashore allowed us to stretch our legs during some hill walking and enjoyment of the local wildlife. The day drew to a close with another brilliant sunset.

14th June 2009

2009-06-16T02:45:00.000-07:00

Date: Sunday 14th June
Anchorage: Lunga (puffin island!!)
Position: 56°29’.856N, 006°24’.990W
Distance travelled: 54.8NM

Day 5: SIGHTING!!! was today’s keyword. We left our anchorage at Loch Tarbert, Jura on a gorgeous morning. Harbour porpoise lead the way, followed by an almost endless bottling of seals. The sun sparkled on the glassy water and the occasional minke got our attention whenever they chose to grace us with their presence. It was a wonderful day for a climb up the crow’s nest, with the majority of those onboard making the journey. Coming closer towards our anchorage for the night, in the Tresnish Islands, several minke’s were seen and as we drew closer to Lunga, Manx Shearwaters and puffins kept us busy counting. A special treat was a trip ashore and entering puffin paradise. It was truly amazing to be literally face-to-beak to these little colourful birds, who curiously watch you and wonder why you haven’t taken their picture yet. Nesting shags, razorbills, and guiilemots completed the amazing experience. A glorious golden sunset was the finale to another unforgettable day. Silurian=magic.

13th June 2009

2009-06-16T02:44:00.000-07:00

Date: Saturday 13th June
Anchorage: Glen Batrick, Loch Tarbert (Jura)
Position: 55°57’.303N, 005°58’.435W
Distance travelled: 65.7NM

Day 4: YOU’RE SIMPLY THE BEST!! Tina Turner blaring out as we woke up, a great way to start the day, in some of our opinions, but also “like waking up in Guantanamo Bay” according to others. Leaving Islay heading south we saw two seals over the first six or seven hours and then after 3 days in hiding the dolphins finally surfaced with about ten minutes left on effort, sneaking up on us as we came in to anchor. After quite a nice start from the weather we got our first real rain, well a wee drizzle by Scottish standards, and finally we saw the captain bringing food to those stranded up the crow’s nest.

12th June 2009

2009-06-12T13:39:00.000-07:00

Date: Friday 12th June
Anchorage: Loch Indaal (Islay)
Position: 55°45’.688N, 006°17’.598W
Distance travelled: 51.5NM

Day 3: the sightings of the day were just a few seals and a minke whale. Probably we were all too busy counting boats and birds. Who can tell the difference between a lesser black-backed gull and a kittiwake...
We then had a hard time fighting our way against the tide, but finally reached Bowmore. And yes, we were allowed a wee dram! Things are getting better every day. Slainté mhath!

11th June 2009

2009-06-12T08:08:00.000-07:00

Date: Thursday 11th June
Anchorage: Oronsay
Position: 56°01’.041N, 006°13’.097W
Distance travelled: 54.1NM

Day started well with basking sharks. A long rolling leg followed. We were finally allowed meat for the evening meal. On the evening trip to land the team split to the far corners of the island, luckily it’s not a large one. Today’s punishment: night time anchor watch in the crow’s nest...or is it?

9th and 10th June 2009

2009-06-11T08:26:00.000-07:00

Date: Wednesday 10th June
Anchorage: Crossapol Bay (Coll)
Position: 56°34’.864N, 006°39’.583W
Distance travelled: 30.0NM

Day 1: A splendid start - seal, golden eagle, minke, minke, dead (stinky) minke, a bunch of basking sharks, more seals.
All volunteers still present and correct – but who knows how long for? They haven’t fed us yet, or let us sleep. We fear for our lives. If you can read this, please help us...

Team 3 rollcall:
Esme – Earthwatch PR guru & purveyor of chocolate peanuts
James – biology student; can get any electrical goods you need - dead cheap, just don’t ask too many questions
Ian – mathematician & software engineer. Has today bought a nice new fleece. He’s keeping a low profile so far, but it’s early days yet.
Jane – author of lies and inhabitant of the small village of Bristol
Doris – Bavarian and mountain enthusiast. Skis uphill, contrary – apparently - to the laws of physics.
Danielle – HWDT volunteer – joined Silurian today and was straight up the crow’s nest like a rat up a drainpipe... she’s still there 12 hours later – we canna lure her down. We may have to leave some tasty, tasty Minke blubber out for her – that’ll do the trick...

Date: Tuesday 9th June
Anchorage: Tobermory Bay
Position: 56°37’.191N, 006°03’.950W
Distance travelled: -NM

Day 0:
DON’T FALL OFF.
DON’T SET FIRE TO STUFF.
DON’T WASH.

5th June 2009

2009-06-06T06:10:00.001-07:00

Date: Friday 5th June 2009
Anchorage: Tobermory
Position: 56°37`.186N, 006°03`.949W
Distance travelled: 32.47NM

We’ve had a grand tour. The weather has been spectacular. The animals have been sparse in the past few days. Creels remain numerous.

These are a few of our favourite things:
Ray liked the skuas and the storm petrels. He saw more skuas than ever in his life before (and he is a birder) and he appreciated seeing the storm petrels in their breeding environment. He found the diversity of geology exciting.
Wendy liked the basking sharks and the white beaked dolphins. She didn’t expect to see so many sharks and loved the bow riding dolphins.
Linda liked the dolphins too, especially from her perch in the crow’s nest.
Gil had been trying to see basking sharks for two years and finally did. The balletic movement of their fins through the water was beautiful. Getting to know the variety of land forms of the Scottish Islands from the sea was also a highlight for her.
Margot.....all of the above and the thrill of taking pictures of an orchid, new to her, the common- spotted orchid on the hills above the anchorage at Canna. Also the climb up to the crow’s nest, when least expected, was very exiting!
Lynn enjoyed the stories in Hamish Haswell-Smith’s book, The Scottish Islands, recommended by Skipper Dave. In fact however, everyone got into the vignettes of history in this delightful tome.
Nienke liked watching the cosiness of the puffins in their breeding colony. She was also excited to see basking sharks and white sided dolphins for the first time. The opportunity to make the trip to Stanton’s Bank with the calm sea was a special experience.
Dave appreciated the scintillating company! The highlight for him was seeing Margot’s exhilaration after climbing into the crow’s nest.
Lewis told us the conversational topic for whale watcher guides and skippers has been, “When are we going to see white sided dolphins?” Seeing 75 at one time was an amazing experience for him, a big ‘tick’ on the small list of cetaceans that are seen in the Hebrides.

4th June 2009

2009-06-06T06:05:00.000-07:00

Date: Thursday 4th June 2009
Anchorage: Arisaig
Position: 56°54’.286N, 05°51’.489W
Distance travelled: 49.7NM

Weighed anchor at Canna Harbour, after having negotiated with a very close neighbouring boat whose anchor was very close to ours and who was actually positioned straight above our anchor. From Canna we finished the tour of the Small Isles including Rum, Eigg and Muck. Sailed by the mausoleum, a Greek structure in the middle of the Hebrides, dedicated to Bullough’s parents near Harris on Rum. Although we remained in the more protected areas (lee sides of the islands), the sea was rough enough. At times we were surrounded by more than a dozen of fishing boats, indicating presence of fish in the area, but sightings were few. Most observations were made up by the abundant birds (mainly gulls), remaining in close vicinity of the fishing boats. Later, we saw two rafts of shearwaters, estimating 250 in all, seeming to be in a feeding frenzy. Rum is a breeding place for shearwaters who nest in burrows high above the sea. In another area gannets were plunging for fish. Anchorage tonight is at Arisaig, a scenic village on the west coast of the mainland harbouring many yachts.

3rd June 2009

2009-06-04T10:43:00.001-07:00

Date: Wednesday 3rd June 2009
Anchorage: Canna Harbour
Position: 57°03’.337N, 06°29’.692W
Distance travelled: 34.2NM

Thought from today: tied to the mast – again – for no porpoise!

Innumerable creels we counted on starboard and port sides. Rarely sighted grey seals, but besides them, nothing else but waves. And more waves. We had a lovely sail, however, across the Sea of the Hebrides. Then we went into Canna Harbour and anchored without difficulty. Skipper stayed aboard making gourmet stew while the rest of us went ashore on the dinghy. Lynn met 7 year old Elinore, one of the students who participated in the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust educational program a few weeks ago. Her Silurian experience was a highlight for her and she also adopted a dolphin. Her father is the gardener contracted to restore the garden of Canna House. The House currently contains an important collection of Gaelic documents which are very valuable. Other adventures included hiking to the tops of mountains to witness panoramic views of the Islands of bo Outer (North and South Uist) and Inner Hebrides, the latter including Skye, Rum, Mull, Muck, Coll and Hyskier. Wild flowers were fabulous including the common spotted orchids which were photographed from positions beside the dehydrated sheep dung. We returned to Silurian and enjoyed the fruits of the skipper’s labour!

2nd June 2009

2009-06-04T10:41:00.000-07:00

Date: Tuesday 2nd June 2009
Anchorage: Loch Boisdale
Position: 57°09’.257N, 07°18’.004W
Distance travelled: 59.7NM

Thought for this day: we otter do better than this.

At the regular time, we left from Vatersay and soon we saw two minke whales. Shorty after these sightings, we sailed south into the fog bank and the temperature fell drastically. As we came out of the fog the cliffs of Barra Head and Mingulay loomed before us. Birds were everywhere and noise – birds and their echoes from the caves – guillemots (common, bridled and black), puffins, razor bills, shags, kittiwakes, fulmars, rock doves were all nesting on the ledges. We proceeded toward the Atlantic and then northward on the westerly side of the Outer Hebrides. This is the most fertile and populous side of the Outer Hebrides. Our skipper skillfully navigated us through the treacherous Barra Sound past plundering and raiding McNeil Clan pirate hideouts of Eriskay. Dinner wasn’t ready yet when we pulled into the Acasaid Mor. The anchor refused to hold so we ventured on to Loch Boisdale where we encountered an otter. On the way, we had a scientific discussion and identification catalogues where more closely examined. Unfortunately no pics of the Barra boys (the resident bottlenose dolphins of the Sound of Barra) to compare. Arriving at the final destination for today, dinner was ready and enjoyed by everyone, while outside the wind was howling.

1st June 2009

2009-06-02T07:21:00.001-07:00

Date: Monday 1st June 2009
Anchorage: Vatersay Bay (Vatersay, South of Barra)
Position: 56°55’.405N, 07°31’.849W
Distance travelled: 103.3NM

Today we are going to have a whale of a time...
We did! And that came from being in the right place at the right time.

We got up EARLY at 4.45 am and weighed anchor, to head to the Stanton Banks. As soon as we were underway and barely ‘On Effort’, we were overwhelmed with sightings! Most were basking sharks, the first ones of the season. Soon we had a system in place to keep the research records more efficiently! During the day, we saw 3 kinds of dolphins – white beaked, common and white sided; as well as minke whales. In addition there were harbour porpoises and grey seals. The banks were teeming with life! Effort concluded at 6 pm (to our relief) but sightings and their recordings continued – more dolphins, porpoises, grey seals and another minke whale. Diving gannets were often a clue to finding dolphins. They were especially enjoyed by Linda (who spent 4 hours in the crow’s nest) when the dolphins were bow riding. The weather was remarkable with sunshine and very light winds all day. The sea was calm and like glass at times, with only very little swell. About 51 basing sharks, 9 minke’s, 70 common dolphins, 75 white sided dolphins, 42 white beaked dolphins, 19 harbour porpoises, 5 unidentified seals, 1 common seal, 25 grey seals later and over 103 miles travelled since starting, we anchored for the night at Vatersay Island which is joined by a causeway to Barra Island in the Outer Hebrides. This was an extraordinarily unusual day in the Hebrides.

31st May 2009

2009-06-02T07:19:00.000-07:00

Date: Sunday 31st May 2009
Anchorage: Gunna (between Tiree and Coll)
Position: 56°33’.694N, 06°42’.760W
Distance travelled: 32.0NM

Thought of the day: think positive for results!

At the usual time, we awakened to surfing music and more sunshine. Before starting the research effort, we detoured into Tinker’s Hole for a quick look around. Heading on, we then sailed past Iona and did a circumnavigation of Staffa giving us a great view into Fingel’s Cave. West from there we went to Lunga where we joined a number of tourists who had also landed. Across the rocks we scrambled and then climbed the path to the grassy bench and puffin breeding burrows, conveniently dug by the rabbits. Puffins were busy puffin’, smooching and building nests in their homes. The birds are very photogenic but it’s challenging to get the right sides showing on the pictures, including the green on the beak and the orange feet. Lovely wild flowers were abundant including thrift, primulas, orchids, trefoil and others. Continuing our journey, Ray was in the crow’s nest and we headed across Gunna Sound near Tiree where we hit the bonanza – 8 basking sharks with at least one couple on the romantic move and two minkes, mom and babe? Before dinner, an excursion to shore where some disembarked and walked along the fine sand to be picked up at the other end of the beach. The large gray seals were obviously guarding their territory and wary of our intrusion. The day ended with a lovely calm dinner under the lowering sun, while basking sharks were visible in the calm flat sea.

30th May 2009

2009-05-31T03:01:00.000-07:00

Date: Saturday 30th May 2009
Anchorage: Southwest of Mull, between Mull and Arraid
Position: 56°17’.266N, 06°21’.0370W
Distance travelled: 59.3NM

Thought of the day: Tied to the mast for no porpoise

Left “the most beautiful place in the world” and travelled all day in brilliant sunshine.....can you believe it? In the Hebrides! Today we passed Christine Keeler’s hideaway (remember the Profumo Scandal?) Skipper leaves open all possibilities depending on weather forecasts and actual conditions ....so we never quite know where we’ll spend the night. Again, 10.5 hours of surveying through the area, only this time even less sightings and recordings, but what to expect in rough seas with sailing speed of 9 knots in wind force 9. Tonight we’re anchored off a rugged island off Mull (Erraid, the famous island from the R.L. Stevenson’s book “ Kidnapped”, which he is said to have written when staying on the island). Bangers and mash with rice pudding for dinner.....gourmet quality. The cast and crew have gone off exploring in the zodiac, where they were inspected by eight seals checking them out from the water close to the beach. Back on board, another porpoising seal and we rested our heads while the boat was rocking on the Atlantic swell.

29th May 2009

2009-05-31T02:57:00.000-07:00

Date: Friday 29th May 2009
Anchorage: Loch Terbert (west Jura)
Position: 55°57’.593N, 05°54’.955W
Distance travelled: 65.6NM

We travelled 65 miles today with 10 hours “on effort”, so Nienke our scientist was pleased with our input. Lots of birds, all ably identified by Ray, Wendy and crew but not too much other “livestock” although porpoises were picked up on the hydrophone so they were all around us, unseen. We had our first introduction into sailing on the Silurian. Finally, we settled at the ”most beautiful anchorage in the world” according to skipper who zodiacked us over in batches to the loveliest flat-stone covered raised beach. Contest for the most beautiful stone is unresolved as the judge clearly had the winning entry...Slept like bricks after our day of fresh air.

28th May 2009

2009-05-29T02:47:00.000-07:00

Date: Thursday 28th May 2009
Anchorage: Bàgh na Dòirlinne (north of Gigha)
Position: 55°43’.513N, 005°44’.031W
Distance travelled: 50.8NM

* Basis for planning for the day: Indecision is the key to flexibility.
* Cartography lesson for the day: Mull of Kintyre.

During the day we had all kinds of weather. Although the day started ”iffy” and we put on all our foul weather gear to start, gradually we peeled off layers of clothing and sea surface flatted more and more. Lumpy seas made observations by the mast very challenging, and Captain reported he was impressed that the researchers failed to be troubled by sea sickness. We sailed into Corryvreckan and at times with the tide, we achieved 13 knots! Sightings were few, some harbour porpoises and seals, and by the end of the day everyone knew how to identify the guillemots! Finally some sun lit the scenery a bit and guided us towards a nice adventurous remote anchorage, where two brave hearts went for a swim. After eight and one half hours on effort, we welcomed the beach combing on the north end of Gigha anchorage, Bàgh na Dòirlinne. Back onboard, we examined a former whelk egg mass (capsules left). These are called “sea wash balls” because they were once used like a sponge or flannel. Apparently, there are many eggs laid but only a few whelks live, having survived by eating the other eggs. Whelks are a delicacy for Southenders (from Essex)!