Nippyfish: A Betta Blog

Giving Your Betta up for Adoption

2007-11-27T16:13:00.001-05:00

Con ustedes, Betta Splendens, originally uploaded by Xavi Calvo.

SJ wrote,

On impulse (and without my prior knowledge) my daughter purchased a male betta from a major pet store. He lived in a tiny bowl for awhile until I kind of took over and now he lives in a ten gallon tank with a couple of fake plants that he likes to hang out in. I have never had fish and we know virtually nothing about them. I did a little research online to be sure he was at least getting the proper care. We've had him for about 5 months now. She quickly lost interest in him and now he's kind of mine. I would like to find a good home for him with someone who appreciates him and can care for him better than I. I keep his tank clean and he gets feed twice a day. I think he's healthy, but he doesn't seem to have grown any. His tank his not heated and we keep the temp down in the house, so I'm sure his water temp is not ideal for him. I would greatly appreciate any resources you might have for finding fish homes. I am hesitant to give him away for free because I don't want him to go to someone who doesn't care about him and will use him for fighting or as a throw away pet, but if you know of someone who really cares for these fish and trust them, they can have everything. I just want to find a good home for him.

A:Thanks for writing in. I applaud you for looking for a new home for your Betta when you are no longer able to care for him. Too often people choose to ignore their fish until it succumbs or decide to euthanize a perfectly healthy fish without first attempting to find it a new home. There are lots of options available to you. First, you can always bring your fish to a local animal shelter. Most won’t turn any animal away and you will be surprised to find a variety of small pets there including fish, hamsters, mice, birds and reptiles. You can also call your local fish store and see if they will take him back. They probably won’t pay you for him but may take him back if he’s in good shape. Call first though because some may have policies in places baring them from taking your fish. Another option is to call or email your local fish club. You didn’t say where you live but there are fish clubs in nearly all major cities full of enthusiastic hobbyists who would be happy to help. Most clubs readily accept donations and will add your fish to their monthly auction. If they can’t do that they almost certainly could put you in touch with a club member who could adopt your fish from you. Start by going online and Googling your city and “freshwater fish club” or “tropical fish society” or some version of those terms. Another option is to sell your fish at an online fish auction like AquaBid.com. This site is very popular among serious fish keepers but you will need to register and learn how to properly ship a fish if yours is purchased. Yet another option is to place an ad online at a site like Craigslist.org, an online fish club site like Aquamaniacs.net or your local town message board. I was able to find a home for many of my fish before I moved across the country by posting on my neighborhood’s online web forum. My neighbor, who had a large tank already, contacted me through the forum. One final option that you may find appealing is to donate your fish to your local elementary or middle school. Very often teachers will take them in and use them as a classroom pet and will often solicit help from their students in caring for them.

I hope you find one of these ideas useful and find a new home for your little Betta soon. Thanks so much for writing in.

Betta Bouncing Back From Ammonia Burns

2007-10-23T15:55:00.001-04:00

Lovely the Fish, originally uploaded by steve xavier.

DO wrote,

I received a 1 gal. wall bowl w/ bamboo plant, few rocks and red male Betta in March as an anniversary gift from my husband. Up until 1.5 weeks ago he was active, had a routine, seemed happy and healthy. We went out of town for the weekend, I left him a sinkable disc food. It was his 1st time alone. After our return I immediately changed the water as it was very cloudy. His gills were protruding and he seemed to be gasping? After clean water he seemed to perk up, but didn't completely return to his old self. 4 days ago he stopped eating. I thought maybe he was cold so I place a light above him a few hours a night. He swims to it and hangs out where it is warm. Yesterday he did his morning "dancing" asking for breakfast, which I took as a good sign, but still won't eat. He doesn't seem to have ick, or any physical damage (besides gills). I am getting very concerned about him. My children keep asking about him. I change his water 1-2 times a week, boil/cool rocks in between as well as rinse off bamboo. His head does look a little gray but not fuzzy the last 2 days or so. Any advise would be great, thanks.

A: This is a classic case of ammonia poisoning with all the signs. Fish waste and decaying food are the primary sources for toxic ammonia. In such a small bowl ammonia can build to toxic levels in a very short amount of time (a few days under normal conditions) and that problem can be compounded by adding extra food or missing a water change.

Swollen gills and gasping are typical symptoms of ammonia burns. Unfortunately, these burns are slow to heal and often never fully return to normal function. When Bettas struggle to get oxygen they often experience secondary problems including loss of appetite, faded color or secondary infections. This is due to the added stress on the immune system.

Some steps you can take to increase your Betta's chance of recovery are keep up with frequent water changes, test for ammonia regularly using a simple ammonia test kit from your local fish store and supply your fish with an appropriately sized aquarium (3 - 5 gallons minimum). Aquarium salt can also be beneficial to
help relieve stress and increase gill function for fish who have experienced ammonia burns. The dosage is 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons of water and remember that salt does not evaporate so don't continue to add salt to the bowl or it will reach unsafe concentrations.

The single best thing you can do to improve water quality and provide a stable home for your fish is to cycle an aquarium. The "nitrogen cycle" is a naturally occurring process that happens in an aquarium (and all bodies of water) where beneficial bacteria reproduce and grow and consume dangerous ammonia as it is being produced. Tank cycling is something that few fish keepers know about when the first buy their fish (unfortunately most fish stores don't educate their patrons) but eventually learn about the process once their fish begin to get sick. I put together a web page for new Betta keepers describing the process so they can easily cycle their first aquarium. Cycling a fish tank will help you combat future ammonia problems, will create a safer healthier environment for your fish and will save you time and money by reducing the frequency of water changes. To learn about the nitrogen cycle visit

This is a very common problem with new Betta keepers and I know your question will help many others experiencing the same problem. Good luck to you and I hope your fish will experience a full recover as soon as possible.

Betta Showing Stress After Aquarium Upgrade

2007-10-22T22:51:00.001-04:00

abyss, originally uploaded by sanoi.

MD wrote,

First, I want to tell you how impressed I am with your website! Thank you so much for providing such a rich resource to betta enthusiasts! I am concerned about my betta fish, Nino. I have had him for three months and he has been a great companion in my study, where I spend most of my time. He was in a 5 gallon aquarium, with no filter and no heater, and was really thriving. As winter is approaching, I wanted to provide him with a heater and a filter to circulate water. Considering how active he was -- swimming back and forth through his tank most of the day -- I decided to switch him to a 10 gallon tank. I was as careful as possible in the transition -- I "seeded" the gravel from his old tank to his new environment + I mixed the new water with the water from his old tank and made sure it was the same temperature.

Since Nino moved to his new aquarium, he has been increasingly less active, and this morning, he remains still at the surface of the water most of the time. He still eats. I should specify that the temperature in his aquarium has been pretty steady at 74-76 F since I got him. I have put the heater and filter in place, but I have not started them yet (I thought I should first give Nino a chance to get used to his new tank for a few days). The filter (duetto mini) does contain a very small charcoal cartridge (could that contaminate the water if not in use?). I have been using spring water from the time I got Nino and have been doing weekly water change. I have tested his water yesterday and today (with API Master test kit) and the reading are good : ammonia between 0 and .25, nitrite: 0; nitrate: 5.0. The pH is high -- 8.0 -- but I have been using the same spring water, and noticed high readings in the past as well.

Nino looked perfectly healthy and happy before the transition and I feel pretty bad seeing him still, with very little reaction to stimuli and noticing his condition getting progressively worse since yesterday. I wonder if I should try to put him back in his smaller tank or if I should I make a water change?... I'm very confused and worried!

I would really appreciate your suggestions!

A:
Moving into a new aquarium can be stressful at first even though it'll be better in the long run. It is not at all unusual for Bettas show signs of stress including sluggishness, loss of appetite or dull coloration for example. Fish are incredibly in-tuned with their environment and can detect even minor changes in water chemistry, especially pH.

You will want to be sure that the new tank doesn't have any soap or detergent residue, that the new water has the same parameters as the old (which you have done) and that any necessary water additives have been added. (Dechlorinator if necessary). If these precautions have been taken then it's likely your fish just needs some time to adjust.

Adding plants (real or silk) and hiding places will help your fish to feel more secure while he gets used to his new territory. Also many aquarists recommend keeping the lights off or surrounding the aquarium with a towel for a day or two to help your Betta feel safe and protected.

I agree that keeping the filter off while your Betta is showing signs of stress is a good idea. Just be careful not to overfeed him during this time and if you detect any ammonia or nitrite you will want to turn on that filter to keep these toxins at bay. Regarding your question about charcoal, I don't believe it is causing additional stress. Charcoal is generally safe for Bettas but if you are worried you could always remove the cartridge until you are ready to run the filter.

A ten gallon aquarium makes a great home for a Betta. Give it a few days at least to allow your fish to adjust. In most cases they will be back to normal within a week.

Common Diseases Bettas Bring Home from the Fish Store - Velvet Disease

2007-10-02T00:04:00.001-04:00

betta femmina, originally uploaded by altiebassi.

Q: CSM wrote,

Hey there, I was wondering if I could trouble you with a quick question. Three days ago I purchased a betta. At the time, he appeared to be in good health, and when i brought him home, he swam in his new tank and ate all of his food. On the third day, he stopped eating and is hanging out at the top of his tank. His front fins appear "clamped" - they look like two little sticks. He is unreceptive to me - I gently tapped the side of his bowl and he did not move. Evey once in awhile he takes a big gulp of air. Other than that, he does not move. He is in a 1.5 gallon tank, the water was treated and left to stand 48 hours before his arrival. All the rocks and the fake plant are brand new and were cleaned before putting them in the tank.

It's not dropsy - yet anyway - no scales are sticking out. I fear he may have velvet - his stomach appears to be goldish. Unfortunately, because he is a new fish, I do not know if this is indeed velvet, or if the goldish stomach was there to begin with.

Perhaps parasites?

sigh.

Any help would be much appreciated.

A: To answer your question, adjusting to a new aquarium can be very stressful for any fish. Very often the new water can be quite different from the water they were kept in previously and the adjustment can really take it's toll on the Betta's immune system. It's not unusual for fish to become ill within the first few weeks in their new home. To add to the problem, Bettas are often kept in less than ideal conditions while at the fish store and can leave with any number of illnesses of which Velvet is one of the more common ones. Here's more information about Velvet from Nippyfish.net.

Velvet or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to the parasites. Velvet or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to the parasites.

Velvet is classified as a dinoflagellate. It is both a protozoan like the Ich parasites but contains Chlorophyll so it is also considered a type of algae. It survives by finding a stressed host and attaching itself mostly to the gill or fin tissue where it kills the cells and consumes the nutrients directly from the fish. If left untreated it often leads to death. Physically, Velvet looks like a gold, rust or yellow dust, finely sprinkled over the fish. In fact, it can be so difficult to see that often a flashlight is needed to reveal it. This shiny powder appearance has lead to many other names besides Velvet including Rust and Gold Dust Disease.

Besides seeing the parasites directly on your fish you may notice other symptoms including the telltale rubbing against rocks, gravel or other décor. This is common with external parasites and is an attempt by your fish to dislodge the pests from its body. As the disease develops, symptoms may worsen and include lethargy, loss of appetite, labored breathing and clamped fins.

Over a short time, the protozoa detach from their host and enter their free-swimming stage where they divide and multiply many times. This is when they are most vulnerable to medications but may not be obviously present in the tank. It is very important when medicating that you finish the entire course of treatment regardless of weather or not you still see the parasites present. Follow the directions on the medication package closely. Once the parasites multiply they must find a new host (or the same old one) within 24 hours to survive. Because of this life cycle it may appear that your fish has gotten better but really once the Piscinoödinium completes reproduction the worst is yet to come. Now many more protozoa are present in the water and waiting to attack your fish.

If diagnosed early, Velvet is fairly easy to treat. First, you should remove your betta and place him into a hospital tank away from any other fish. Oödinium is highly contagious and keeping the infected fish in a community tank can put others at risk. Make note, the medications for Velvet may be toxic to other species like some fish, snails, invertebrates and aquarium plants as well. Also, any filter media should be removed so as not to eliminate the medication from the water. Next, slowly raise the water temperature to 80˚F – 82˚F [26.6˚C – 27.7˚C]. Because you don’t want to further stress you fish, be sure to only increase the temperature by no more then 2˚F or 1˚C in a 24 hour period. A more rapid temperature fluctuation could cause additional harm. It’s recommended you use a commercial Velvet medication like Mardel’s CopperSafe® or Jungle’s Velvet Guard®. Reducing the amount of light getting into the tanks by keeping the hood lamp off and covering the tank may help to combat the parasites as well.

To prevent the Piscinoödinium parasites from infesting your tank there are some simple precautions all aquarists can tank. First, always quarantine new fish for 3 – 4 weeks before adding them to a community tank. Be sure to always test your water parameters regularly and keep tank water clean by performing frequent and regular water changes. Avoid stressors like temperature and pH fluctuations and provide a nutritionally balanced diet by offering a variety of live and frozen foods.

Betta Fish and Filter Current

2007-09-30T18:14:00.001-04:00

IMG_4794, originally uploaded by Bassline Audio Visual.

Q: M wrote:

WOW I have to say that your website is quite the place to find the answers your looking for so thank you so much in helping people find the right answers to keep their wonderful fish alive and well! I was wonder now if you could help me...I bought a betta fish about a week ago and had him in a bowl at first then decided what kind of home is this I wouldnt want to live my life in some dumb fish bowl so then I decided to buy him a 2.5 gallon fish tank with filter and gravel and I have a fake plant in there for him I leave the light on from about 7:30pm till about 11:00pm plus all the sunlight he gets during the day is that okay to keep the light on that long I just dont like the idea of him being in the dark? Furthermore I was wondering the filter I got for him is 1 of those kinda cheap filters that has a high, medium and low speed I keep it on the low speed but it seems as if its not filtering at all barely any kind of stream coming out the top of the filter and the waters cloudy but then when I put it on medium power it filters great I dont want him to get sucked up into the filter though and I dont want him to be stressed to have to swim so hard Im just confused and depressed because I want him to have a great life for as long as he can. Any information would be so helpful and so appreciated please get back to me asap Loui's scaring me I dont want him to die! OH and incase you couldnt tell this is my first betta LOL :). ANother thing that I thought I'd throw in there since Im asking so many questions already is hes got filmy stuff on the top of his water and hes got build up on the sides of his tank what can I do to get rid of that? Thank you soooo much again your the reason bettas get to live such a long life your such a great source of help and answers and the pet store people are killers they dont care since its not their porblem so thank you!

A: You asked lots of great questions so I will try and answer them in order. In terms of lighting, Bettas, like most animals, use queues from nature to help them know when to be awake and when to sleep. Bettas have a natural sleep cycle that corresponds with the sun. When it's light, they are awake and when the lights go out you can often catch them sleeping in their plants or along the bottom of the tank. I like to give them about 12 hours with the light on and 12 with it off but a little more or a little less doesn't seem to cause any noticeable stress. One thing for sure is that you don't have to worry about turning the light off on your Betta. He'll appreciate the chance to catch some "Z"s.

Determining whether or not your filter is strong enough or too strong is something that a lot of Betta keepers deal with. The sludge you see on the water's surface and aquarium glass is called detritus or "mulm" and may indicate that you need to turn up the filter a little. Detritus is made up of organic compounds in the water and isn't typically harmful but can be an eyesore. Typically, to get rid of it, aquarists create a little more water movement. Since your filter has an adjustable flow control I would recommend turning it up to medium and observing things for a couple of days. If your Betta is really struggling to reach the surface or is cowering completely, then you may have no choice but to turn it down. Another thing you can do is split the difference between low and medium speeds by setting the filter control to medium and adding a few more silk aquarium plants. Extra plants in the water tend to help disperse the water flow making it easier for your fish to deal with the current.

If turning up the filter doesn't remove the detritus you can remove it from the water's surface by folding a paper towel in half and scraping the folded edge across the surface. Detritus that is sitting on the tank bottom can be sucked up with an inexpensive turkey baster, a tool that often comes in handy with Bettas.

Congratulations on your first Betta. I'm thrilled to hear you are doing your homework and providing your fish with great care.

How Bettas Handle Temperature Fluctuations

2007-09-16T00:03:00.001-04:00

mitai May2, originally uploaded by misa212.

Q: LAB wrote,

I've been looking through your blog - so much helpful information. I'm currently cycling a tank (without fish), and am trying to regulate the temperature. During the day, I've got a light on for the live plants, and the water gets to about 80-82 degrees F, and at night, it gets cooler, so I've got a heater set to 80 degrees F. I was wondering how much of a temperature fluctuation the Bettas can handle safely? The time I'm most worried about is during the day, when the light is on.

I've got a 3 gallon aquarium, (the Eclipse system).

Thanks for your great blog and website!

A: It's true that rapid water temperature changes can lead to stress in aquarium fish and even thermal shock if extreme enough but the exact number of degrees that will cause damage can be difficult to pin point.

Water temperature fluctuations generally become a problem when they

1. Are drastic (alter by several degrees)
2. Are prolonged (fish that are kept at temperatures too warm or too cold on a regular basis)
3. Fluctuate over a short period of time

These temperature changes also effect the fish differently. A drastic temperature change can cause an immediate physical or behavioral change in the Betta. It may swim erratically, float on one side or appear distressed. Less severe fluctuations of just a few degrees over time may effect the fish in a less obvious way. For instance, the immune system can be weakened leaving the Betta prone to illnesses like bacterial infections or parasites. In these cases it may not be obvious to the fish keeper that the cause was stress induced by temperature changes.

The general health of the fish also comes into play. Weak or sick fish are more likely to feel the effects of temperature fluctuations. This is one reason why breeders won't ship fish that aren't in perfect health as shipping can often expose them to fluctuations of 10 Fahrenheit degrees or more.

That said, I personally try to keep my temperature fluctuations less than 2-3 degrees Fahrenheit in a 24 hour period (or 1-2 degrees Celsius.)In the summer this can be a bit more difficult so I try my best to keep my fish healthy by feeding them a balanced nutritious diet and keeping their water very clean.

One thing you can do is reduce the amount of time you keep the light on over your tank, particularly in the warmer months. As long as he's getting ambient light he'll be fine. The tank light is really more for your benefit than the Betta, unless you are using it to grow live plants that require a lot of light.

Aim for a temperature of 78-80F. A few degrees above or below that is fine, but of course best if you can keep it stable.

Heavy Current in Betta Tank

2007-09-03T14:04:00.001-04:00

AquaOne 215L, originally uploaded by KittyKat3756.

H wrote,

I just bought a new female betta, Finona, who is quite young and small. I have her in the Eclipse 3 gallon but I noticed the current is quite strong for her. Do you have any recommendations to lessen the current? I am thinking it might get better for her once she gets bigger but any advice would be appreciated.

A: Often, when we find ourselves with a filter that doesn't allow adjustablity of the output we have to fashion ourselves some sort of homemade dampener to keep the strong current away from our bettas. In larger aquariums we are usually just trying to slow things down in the output area where the water is flowing into the tank. In a very small aquarium, like the Eclipse 3, the current can be quite strong throughout the entire tank making it a little more difficult for the fish and for us as we try to figure a way to cut the current.

In this case you may want to try cutting the toe out of a pair of pantyhose and rubberbanding it around the small water intake basket where debris is sucked into the aquarium. This is a method we often use when the suction at the intake is too great for our fish but it tends to create enough drag to slow the entire assembly. You may also want to try creating dam at the water's surface with a plastic tank divider. This method works quite well in larger aquariums and I have used it many times when breeding gouramis so that they can have perfectly still water at the surface to build their bubble nests.

To create this surface barrier I purchase one plastic mesh tank divider kit, available at just about any fish store, PetCo or PetSmart, and cut a long 1 to 2 inch strip from the mesh. I then attach it to the brackets as you would if you were setting up the divider, and attach the brackets to the sides of the aquarium, just around the flow output. Make sure the mesh is at the top of the water and sticking out the surface just a bit. (A quarter inch is fine.)

This method won't cut the current throughout the entire aquarium but will create a calm location where your girl can get away when she wants to.

A homemade mesh dam made from a mesh tank divider.

A third method, and my favorite, for cutting back on current is to plant the heck out of your aquarium. Lots of crypticorians and java ferns, not to mention little caves or ceramic hidey-holes are a great way to disperse some of that current. It's a little more costly then the other methods but it's gorgeous and fishies love it too.

Nippyfish Introduces BarePaws; A New Blog!

2007-08-25T17:09:00.001-04:00

cat TV, originally uploaded by peggy..

Dear Nippyfish readers,

Just a quick announcement. In addition to Nippyfish: A Betta Blog I have started a second blog dedicated to natural and holistic pet care called, BarePaws. I know a lot of you have dogs, cats, birds and other fury and scaly creatures at home so feel free to check it out and enjoy.

http://barepaws.wordpress.com/

Regular postings on Nippyfish: A Betta Blog will continue but won't be as frequent as they were over the past couple of years. Many of you may have noticed that post frequency has fallen to about once a week or so over the last couple of months and that's about where it will stay for awhile at least.

As always feel free to write to me with your Fighting Fish questions at betta[at]nippyfish.net

Thanks for all your support and I hope you will enjoy the BarePaws in addition to Nippyfish: A Betta Blog and Nippyfish.net.

Respectfully yours,
Christie
Nippyfish.net

Female Betta: Eggs Causing Lethargy

2007-08-25T16:37:00.001-04:00

Homegirl was practicing her MySpace pose., originally uploaded by mandynickel.

YC wrote,

Hi Christie! I have a quick question for you. When female bettas are
pregnant with eggs, and a male is no longer in sight, do they become
lethargic and have trouble eating? I was wondering how much energy reabsorption of the eggs cost them.

A: Well, my specialty is general health and not breeding so I'm afraid I can't say exactly how lethargic females get when full of eggs. As much as I would LOVE to be breeding regularly I have really done just a little, mostly just to gain knowledge. The females I have bred really haven't gotten all that big and my breeding success... well I haven't had any. :P

That said, the extra weight and pressure, and expended energy used to reabsorb the eggs could certainly lead to some lethargy. One thing you can do to help speed up her metabolism and thus increase her appetite and the rate she reabsorbs the eggs is to slowly raise the water temperature to about 80F (26.5C). If you're not already, try feeding easy to digest foods that won't absorb a lot of water like daphnia, blood worms and brine shrimp. These tasty bits may encourage her to eat and will help give her the energy she needs to reabsorb those eggs.

Older Bettas & Dropsy

2007-08-15T00:06:00.001-04:00

Curious, originally uploaded by SuperNova83.

Q: RSB wrote,

My betta's name is Nemo. I have had him for about three and a half years now. He has been sick for about two weeks. He is rather lazy and sluggish and usually sits at the bottom of his bowl. He has a big loss of appetite and hasn't really eaten anything for like two weeks. Just today, I noticed that his scales are protruding out a little bit. I read somewhere that protruding scales are a sign of dropsy. I also read that if a betta has dropsy, he usually has a bubble under his abdomen that makes him look pregnant, but my fish has no bubble. He just seems very sad and depressed.

Here is some more information:

1. I keep my fish in a fish bowl that carries about a gallon of water.
2. No, I have not tested for ammonia.
3. I have not tested him for nitrate.
4. I have not tested the pH either.
5. I am not positive on the temperature of the water. It seems a little cold. I know the water is supposed to be at about 78 degrees. I just tested his water to see if it was warm but it doesn't seem warm enough for him. It seems like it's between 70-75 degrees. I am not sure how to check the exact temperature of the water, so if you would know how, please tell me.
6. My parents change his water once a week. They pretty much change four fifths of his water.
7. We just put in about 6 drops of Aqua Safe water conditioner every time we change his water.
8. I feed him the hikari pellets. Usually, I would feed Nemo every time I saw him come up to the top of his bowl and I would see him staring at me. On average, I would feed him about 5-6 pellets a day.
9. He has no tank mates.
10. No, the tank is not planted.
11. (refer to paragraph above)

So what do you recommend I should do? Should I get him some medication or should I just focus more on the temperature of the water?

Thank you for taking the time to help out Nemo. He and I will really appreciate the help.

A: I'm sorry to hear about poor little Nemo. Unfortunately protruding scales is the most common symptom of Dropsy. A swollen abdomen, as you mentioned, is also very common but fish with Dropsy don't necessarily show both symptoms. If yours has pineconing scales then he almost definitely has dropsy.

Dropsy itself is not a disease but a symptom that can be caused by several things including a bacterial infection, virus or even parasites. It's very common in tropical fish, especially Betta splendens and sadly it is usually fatal. Dropsy can affect Bettas of any age. If you have had Nemo for 3 1/2 years he is likely about 4 years old or even as old as 4 1/2 years, which is getting up there in Betta years. It isn't unusual for older fish to become susceptible to illnesses as their immune systems weaken from old age. I also lost an older Betta to this terrible illness last year.

The only thing you can do in the later stages of Dropsy is to keep the water clean, warm and stable. To monitor your water temperature you can buy an aquarium thermometer for as little as $1 - $2 at any local fish store.

To learn more about Dropsy visit the Dropsy page.

I wish you all the best and will keep you and Nemo in my thoughts.

Heating Betta Bowls

2007-08-07T23:11:00.001-04:00

Betta Display, originally uploaded by Joseph Hoetzl.

AK wrote,

Hey there, Just stumbled across your website and i think its great. I am a first time owner and am so excited. We named him Jean-Michel, after the famous eighties art star:) So we did decide to go with a 1 gal. bowl. I understand that is a little small now and will be changing soon, but for now I wanted to know if there are any recommendations for keeping the bowl heated? The water reads at about 75, but if the whether cools off... I will be going to get a pH kit this week too. Thanks for the site.

A: Thanks for writing in and congratulations on your first Betta fish. Small fish bowls can be pretty difficult to maintain a stable, warm temperature. As you mentioned, the best way to keep the temperature stable is to increase the water volume, which will slow the rate that the temperature fluctuates. In the meantime I recommend placing the bowl in a warm location away from drafts. I have heard some people keep their bowls on top of the refrigerator or in the bathroom. Unfortunately there are no aquarium heaters made for bowls as small as one gallon and placing small bowls on a reptile mat or heating pad can quickly cause the heat to raise to unsafe levels. If you can move him to a larger container between 2 and 5 gallons then you open up other options like a mini heater.

One common mistake aquarists make when heating small bowls is to use a lamp light to warm the water. This method creates several dangers including raising the temperature too quickly, too high, and creating drastic, dangerous fluctuations when the light is turned off at night.

While not ideal, it will be better for your fish to be kept at a slightly cooler temperature that is stable then one that is warmer but fluctuates.

Photo of Jean-Michael provided by AK.

Mystery Source of Ammonia Hurting Betta Brood

2007-08-01T23:40:00.001-04:00

Blue, originally uploaded by spyzter.

EK wrote,

I'm also a betta enthusiast, and recently also became a betta breeder... I'm raising my second spawn now. I use beanie boxes because of their convenience -- I have a set of shelves holding 96 boxes (24 on each shelf), though I'm only using 72 of them right now. I know you don't recommend anything smaller than 1gal, but these (a little more than 1/3 gal) are widely used among betta breeders because of their utter convenience and ability to pack quite a lot of them into a small space (absolutely necessary for spawns of 200, 300, 400+ fry). I do 100% water changes twice a week or more, and until now my fish have been perfectly healthy.

I am writing with a mysterious problem. Ammonia is appearing in my beanie boxes at high levels, even right after water changes. Today, I measured .5ppm ammonia in my beanie boxes after doing a 100% water change yesterday!

I've been keeping beanie boxes since March and haven't encountered stressed fish before, though I must admit that I didn't regularly check the ammonia in the boxes -- I just recently began checking since I was trying to pinpoint the source of stress for some fish who unaccountably became sick. Well, ammonia was definitely the source of their stress. I had skipped a water change due to a housguest and ammonia was rearing its ugly head. I had no idea that ammonia could build up so fast if I didn't keep up with water changes. But still, I feel like my test kit shouldn't be reading so high right after a water change.

My tap water (Burlingame CA, same water source as San Francisco) is about 7.8pH, 3KH, 4GH, has chlorine, chloramines, AND has .5ppm ammonia straight out of the tap. To condition my water I use NovAqua and Amquel together. I set the pH to 6.6-6.8 using Neutral Regulator and Discus Buffer. I keep the beanie boxes heated at 80F. I feed frozen food (brine shrimp, bloodworms, mysis shrimp, krill, plankton, white mosquito larvae) and Attison's Betta food -- moderate amounts once or twice a day, more for growing juveniles. Each betta in its own box. Floating plants, no substrate.

I use the Aquarium Pharmaceutical ammonia test kit, which I believe is a salicylate test. If I'm correct, the Amquel converts the ammonia to nontoxic ammonium, which shouldn't show up on my test kit. However, even directly after treating my water with Amquel at more than a double dose, the test kit still reads some ammonia (between 0-.25ppm). And now, a day later, the ammonia is back up to .5ppm. I only fed the fish once, a small clump of frozen brine shrimp (2-6 shrimp each), so decaying matter shouldn't be the problem.

One other bit of information might be useful. I keep floating water sprite in some of the beanie boxes. Before I changed all the beanie boxes yesterday, I tested many of the boxes and found out that the boxes with water sprite had, with a few exceptions, lower ammonia than the boxes without water sprite. I hadn't changed the water in about 7 days (very unusual for me), so the ammonia was up to 2ppm in many boxes without water sprite -- a definite potential for stress and illness. The boxes with water sprite had, but for a few exceptions, ammonia at .5ppm. So I went and added water sprite to all my boxes, thinking that would keep ammonia from spiking to 2ppm and I'd go back to my normal twice-weekly water change routine to prevent it from reaching even .5ppm.

But obviously there's something else going on here, since I just discovered that my water tests at .5ppm the day after a water change, and since I can't even get the ammonia all the way to zero before I add the fish. I have a few theories:

1. The test kit is reading a false positive. This doesn't make sense, since Amquel detoxifies the ammonia by turning it to ammonium. Ammonium shouldn't register on my salicylate test kit -- or does it?

2. The Amquel is not completely effective. This also doesn't make sense, since I've tried up 4 x the normal dosage and the test kit still registers some faint green. Also, the Neutral Regulator detoxifies ammonia, so with both of those, there should be zero ammonia left in the water.

3. The chloramine is breaking down into ammonia and chlorine as a delayed reaction, and the ammonia removers are not keeping up. This doesn't make sense either because of all the extra Amquel that I've put in, as an experiment. The only way this would make sense is if the Amquel dissipates before all the chloramine is broken down into ammonia, but I doubt that's the case since the water conditioners should have broken down the chloramine immediately.

4. There is decaying matter in the boxes. I can see how this would usually be the easy answer, but it doesn't make sense that there would be .5ppm ammonia the very day after a water change. Plus, it doesn't explain why there is ammonia in the water even before putting a single fish into it.

5. The fish themselves are excreting lots of ammonia. This is a possibility, especially since I tend to feed my growing juveniles heavily. However, this theory has the same problems as decaying matter -- high ammonia appearing so soon after a change, and the water reading more than zero even directly after conditioning it.

6. There is some other mysterious source of ammonia.

7. There is some other source of a false positive on my test kit.

Well, I'm out of theories. Can you make sense out of any of this? I'm sorry for writing such a very long-winded email, but after reading everything on your site and blog, I feel that I need someone like you to lend your experience to this puzzling situation.

Thanks so much for any thoughts you might have!

A: Thanks for providing such detailed information in your email. You were answering all my questions just as fast as I was thinking of them. So, to recap, you are finding high levels of ammonia even within a day of a full water change. You are using regular AmQuel and NovAqua together and Neutral Regulator to change your pH. It sounds like, since you mentioned the green color, that you do indeed have a salicylate based ammonia test kit. Ok, now that we know all that let's see if we can figure out where the ammonia is coming from.

The very first thing I would do is create a control. Test your source water for ammonia straight out of the tap. What a lot of people don't realize is that household water can have a lot of ammonia in it. Even as much as 2.0 ppm due to agricultural runoff or just residual from the chlorination process. If ammonia is detected then this is a major find in terms of discovering the source of your problem. If not, then we know the ammonia is being caused by organic compounds from the fish and/or food. Determining which if these is the case is important.

Let's look at possible failures in the system.

1. Test Kit - While it sounds like your test kit is a salicylate kit (reads just free NH3 ammonia) there are two things to consider. First, keep in mind that tolerances for these kits are really low. Any reagent based kit you buy at the fish store has a huge variance in accuracy and it gets even worse if you buy the dip stick kind. Just keep in mind that what it says and what it is can be very different. If accuracy is important to you (it often is for breeders but not so much for the casual hobbyist) then you might want to think about investing in a more accurate kit. I am told that Salifert is the best kit you can buy at a hobby level but if you want to invest in the best then you want to look at labratory grade kits like Hach or LaMotte. Ok, I'm digressing. The other think to remember is test kits worsen with age. If you have had yours for a year, toss it. Hey, that reminds me....

2. AmQuel & NovAqua - We'll call them A&N for short. A&N are a great option because unlike other products they don't fade or become less effective over time. If you add it to the tank and ammonia builds up two days later, they will begin working when they are needed. They aren't removed until you perform a water change. That said they DO have some limitations. AmQuel has a nasty little habit of lowering pH when kh is already low and can become ineffective in very acidic water. Fortunately, ammonia becomes less toxic in very acidic water too. Just how acidic I'm not sure but I am sure the failure point is much lower then your 6.6 - 6.8 pH level. Also, keep in mind that A&N remove ammonia at a different rate depending on the pH. At a pH of 7.0 it will convert toxic ammonia in 5 minutes. At a high pH it will take longer and in acidic water it will take longer still.

3. Neutral Regulator - I'm afraid the bottle is misleading you when it says it detoxifies ammonia. As I mentioned above, ammonia is more dangerous in water with a ph above 7.0 (called basic or alkaline). When you lower the pH the ammonia isn't AS dangerous to the fish but it isn't "detoxified" per se. On the flip side, if you were using pH regulator to raise your pH you would be making your ammonia MORE toxic. It's all relative. This doesn't mean we should all go out and buy pH Down. Altering pH is a dangerous practice in and of itself. A severe pH crash can do more damage a lot faster then an ammonia spike. I generally recommend working with the pH you have rather than trying to alter it.

But wait.. there's more.

To get a little deeper into the relationship between ammonia and pH you have to look at the molecules. When we measure the pH levels we are counting the amount of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl ions (OH-) present in the sample. An increased level of hydrogen ions [less bonded] means the sample will be more acidic. When less hydrogen ions (H+) and more hydroxyl ions (OH-) are present [more bonded] the sample will become basic instead. When both the hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl ion (OH-) levels are about the same the sample is neutral. In acidic water ammonia ions (NH3) react with water to create ammonium ions (NH4+) and hydroxyl ions (OH-). When water is basic the reaction goes the opposite way because, as mentioned earlier, there is already an abundance of hydroxyl ions present in basic water. Instead of creating ammonium (NH4+) out of ammonia (NH3) and water (H2O) the hydroxyl ions (OH-) split from ammonium (NH4+) to create ammonia (NH3) and water (H2O).

Confused?

Ok. I will just get to my theory. I'm guessing there is ammonia in your tap water. You are lowering the pH from basic to acidic and treating with AmQuel and NovAqua. Then over a several hours the pH begins to rise again (this happens naturally due to the carbonate hardness (KH) in your water) and the non-toxic NH4+ is converting back into harmful NH3. This combined with heavy feeding and a couple less water changes then necessary is too much for your A&N to handle and you pick up the readings on your test kit.

What I recommend doing is testing your tap water for ammonia, lay off of the Neutral Regulator and increase the number of water changes to every other day. Keeping healthy plants like you have been doing is a great way to help fight ammonia too. It seems like a lot, but honestly, breeders would tell you daily full changes are the only way to insure a healthy brood. Kudos to you for all your hard work and for taking the leap into Betta breeding.

Installing an Air Stone

2007-07-30T00:32:00.001-04:00

Betta Bubble Maker, originally uploaded by devroka.

Q: MS wrote,

I recently rescued a Betta fish from being the leftover of a center piece at a wedding and I just setup a tank for the little guy in my apartment.

I purchased 1.5 gallon tank and the tank came with an airstone system in it. Now I have been trying to read up as much as possible online regarding Betta, and I seem to be reading a lot of mix opinions regarding moving water with Betas.

I am generally concerned that the airstone would disturb my fish's ability to build a bubble nest. Is there a proper recommendation on how often I should run the airstone, if at all?

Also how should I adjust the height of the output top of the airstone in relation to the top of the water? Should the water level be equal to the airstone output, or should it be slightly lower so the upcoming air slightly spills out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great site by the way, it is very informative for me regarding me newly saved fish.

A: Great question. Betta splendens, unlike most fish, have a special lung-like organ called a labyrinth organ located near their gills. They share this special organ with other anabantoids like Gouramis and Paradise Fish. The labyrinth organ allows fish who are found naturally in water with low dissolved oxygen levels to gulp air directly from atmosphere at the water's surface. Because of this specialized adaption, Bettas don't require air stones to oxygenate the water.

Air stones are typically most helpful in aquariums with very little water movement. If you are running a HOB filter (Hang on Back) the water usually gets enough oxygen from the filter's output. A tank with an under-gravel filter doesn't get much water movement and may benefit from an air stone. Another reason for using an air stone would be to keep the water surface in a bowl without a filter agitated so unsightly detritus doesn't form. Other's choose to add air stones entirely for their aesthetic appeal, which can add quite a nice effect if hidden within the aquarium decor.

In terms of bubblenest building, an air stone will make it virtually impossible for the bubbles to stay unless you have a portion of the tank sanctioned off where there is no surface movement. Observing bubblenest building is interesting and impressive but not necessary. No harm will come to the Betta if he can't build a bubblenest. In most cases, even the mild surface agitation created by the filter is too much for bubbles to hold.

There are dozens of styles of air stones so how you install them may differ slightly but in most cases there are four components important to installing an air stone. First, cut a small piece of air tubing (a few inches long at most) and attach it to the air pump. Then install an inexpensive reverse-flow valve. This will keep the water from siphoning out of the tank and onto the floor in the event of a power outage. Next, attach a longer piece of air tubing to the other side of the reverse-flow valve. To determine how long the tubing needs to be, consider where you will be keeping the pump and allow enough room to run the tubing all the way to the bottom of the tank. You can always trim it down if it is too long. Finally, attach the air stone itself to the end of the tube.

Remember, the water at the bottom of the tank gets less oxygen then the surface. To provide ample oxygenation to bottom dwelling species, you'll want to attach the stone near the bottom or even under the substrate if you want to keep it hidden. I like to hide mine in the back under the sand or behind lush plant material so only the bubbles are visible.

Unstable PH Looks Like Common Bettas Disease

2007-07-25T01:11:00.001-04:00

castor, originally uploaded by haleyluna.

Q: J wrote,

I have a Crowntail Splendid Betta; named Bartholomew, whom I've had for 1½ years now. I keep him in a 5½ gallon tank with a filter, heater set at 73 degrees, and an air pump with no added tank mates. The tank environment consists of two plastic plants, four fabric plants, a castle for a hideout, two small Java ferns and blue, white and black aquarium rocks at the bottom of the tank.

I premix my water one day before I do my 20% water change, which is every week. The pre-mixture consists of stress coat and ½ teaspoon of aquarium salt. Before cleaning Bartholomew's tank, I take him out and put him into a cup that holds 1½ cups of conditioned water. After changing the water and cleaning his tank by light vacuuming; I check the temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. They are now reading: Temperature - 80 degrees, pH was 7.5, now reading 7.0, Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - 0, Nitrates - 10. Sometimes I have to add pH down, which consists of a total of six - ten drops during the course of two days. Recently, I read that adding pre-soaked peat moss to the filter cartridge helps keep the pH level from rising above 7.0; this is better than adding a chemical to lower it; please give advice?

I feed him twice everyday; a daily total of 3 - 4 live black worms, 3 - 4 dried blood worms and once a week presoaked pellets and occasional brine shrimp. Bartholomew was a very active Betta; swimming and flaring at everything - the filter, the heater and even his owners. Also, he would get excited by your presence and most of all getting his food. Although, Bartholomew is still swimming around and eating a well-balanced diet; approximately 3 - 4 weeks ago I noticed a change in the little guy's personality; he seemed to be lying at the bottom of the tank most of the time and acting very lethargic. His colors are still vibrant; fins are free of any tears, no signs of any parasites, bacterial or fungal infection. I do notice a couple little white dots; but they do not appear raised. I started to wonder if he might have ick. To be on the safe side I started treating him with Melafix and Pimafix.

I spoke to Aquarium Adventure, a fish store and they stated that he is just getting old. Could this be true? Can he be acting this way so quickly - just lying at the bottom of the tank; being lethargic? Is there a possibility that he has contracted a parasite or some type of infection that could be making him act this way without visual signs? Also, could I have possibly fed him bad food?

After completing the seven day treatment of Melafix and Pimafix without the activated carbon; I did a 25% water change. Bartholomew only responded a little to the Melafix and Pimafix treatment. A few days later I decided to perform a Methylene Blue dip by setting up a 1 gallon hospital tank; I added one gallon of water from my display tank and than added less than 1½ teaspoons of Methylene Blue. I netted my Betta, Bartholomew from his display tank and dipped him into the Methylene Blue mixture for a total of 8 - 9 seconds. I then immediately removed him and placed him back into the display tank. The reason why I performed this treatment was because he still had a couple white dots near his gills; and both of his eyes had a couple of cloudy spots on them. He was also still acting very lethargic.

The day after his Methylene Blue treatment, I noticed a change in his behavior; he started to act a little himself again; swimming around a little more and flaring a little. His appetite is still excellent and his colors are more vibrant. I still feel that Bartholomew has not fully recovered from his illness. So my question is: should I perform another Methylene Blue dip or do you recommend another course of treatment due to his cloudy eye problem? If I do another Methylene Blue dip, how much should I use and how long should the dip be? Should I be doing the dip periodically until he gets better? Should I treat him in the hospital tank with a small dose of aquarium tetracycline instead of the Methylene Blue? Or, should I give him an aquarium salt treatment in the hospital tank? Please give advice. I really want to see my little guy be himself again. Thanks for your help.

A: Thanks for writing in and providing such detailed information. It really helps to understand better what is happening with your little Bartholomew.

As fish keepers it is very common for us to worry when our finned family members get sick and it is our natural instinct for us to want to treat them with anything and everything we have at our disposal. It's easy to forget that medicine is a complicated dance between diagnosis and treatment. As with human treatment, medications have specific uses, can cause side effects and add additional stress to the body of those being treated. Before treating with any medication try to determine a reasonable diagnosis for your fish and choose the medication accordingly. Methylene Blue, the primary ingredient in external parasite medications like Rid-Ich+, work great to treat Ich but still exposes your fish to a chemical. MelaFix and PimaFix aren't bad as a treatment for open wounds or minor exterior infections, but don't contain any properties for parasite treatment, can contribute to antibiotic resistant bacteria and in the case of Melafix is overly potent for sensitive bettas despite its marketing as a holistic remedy.

I mention this because you are utilizing a lot of medicine without strong evidence of a specific disease. One or two white specs on your fish may or may not be Ich parasites. Bettas do occasionally get white salt-like granules that can only be described as pimples. These look nearly identical to Ich but only appear a couple at a time, don't spread and dissappear on their own in a couple of days. If your Betta has Ich, you'll know it fast as the parasites reproduce until he is infested with white salt-like granules. Before treating with Ich medication, be sure to read up on the life cycle of the parasite. Understanding it's three part life cycle is the only way to truly understand how to treat it successfully. For an easy guide to treating Ich, check out:

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

If you determine your betta does have Ich, you may opt to treat him in the hospital tank with a lower concentration of Methylene Blue for 7 days or as a daily dip of 12mg/l for up to 10 minutes. This is a parasite treatment though, so if Bartholomew doesn't have an infestation, Methylene Blue won't help. Similarly with MelaFix and PimaFix. These medicines treat abrasions and surface infections and won't be as effective on other ailments.

That said, I want to mention the cause I suspect for Bart's lethargy, PH fluctuations. As you know, the optimal pH for a betta tank is slightly acidic. (A pH of about 6.8 is perfect) It is really easy to want to fix the pH until it falls exactly where you want it but in actuality, adjusting your pH is much more dangerous then leaving it stable right where it is, even if it's a lot higher then you would think is safe. A stable pH of 8.0 is a lot better for your Betta then a pH that fluctuates between 7.5 and 7.0. PH that becomes rapidly more acidic is called a pH crash and can actually cause sudden shock and death. PH adjustment drops are inconsistent and depend entirely on your carbonate hardness levels (KH). Adding drops will cause your pH to fall fast and return right back where it was in a few hours/days. This fluctuation will be far more stressful to your fish then leaving it right where it is. Most tropical fish are resilient enough to adapt and many were bred in water out of their ideal pH level. If your pH is very high (above 8.0) you can add peat pellets to the tank but again, you will need to become familiar with your carbonate hardness, which determines how easily your pH can be altered. I suspect the lethargy your betta was experiencing was caused by the variation in PH.

Overly adjusting PH is a very common mistake fish keepers make and I have written quite a bit about it. To read more try these links:

Adjusting Aquarium PH Level

PH Crashes: The Roll of Carbonate Hardness

Hope you find this helpful. Thanks for writing in and I hope Bartholomew feels better soon.

Betta splendens with Ich parasites

Abdominal Bleeding in Betta with Dropsy

2007-07-18T00:30:00.001-04:00

pastel rainbow / un arcoiris color pastel, originally uploaded by Citlali257.

Q: SL wrote,

My beta Spooky most definitely has dropsy, but out of all the articles i've read on it, none have talked about other problems I'm having with him, which is making me to believe this is a really bad case. He barely eats now and barely moves. He hangs out at the bottom of his bowl. When I noticed the scales sticking out, I tried to get him to move. When he did, I noticed red spots on his belly and what looks like his belly ripped open. I attached photos of it. I'm afraid it might be too late for him but I've treated him with aquarium solutions beta revive, which the people at my local pet store gave me. I've had to keep him on a top shelf away from the cats. If he wasn't up there, maybe I would have notice sooner. I feel really bad. I've had fish all my life but I've never had a fish with any illness, so I'm completely at a lost. If he is dying, what else can I do to make it easier for him and about how much longer? I hate seeing him like this.

A:Dropsy is a terrible disease. I have lost several fish to it myself and I know how heartbreaking it can be to see your Betta suffer. Unfortunately, tropical fish rarely overcome Dropsy. The pineconing and bloating you see is believed to be caused by internal organ failure and the accumulation of fluids in the body. Once it becomes noticeable it's usually too late. The redness you are seeing is blood under the surface of a severely stretched abdominal area. The options are limited, I'm afraid, to trying to make him comfortable in his final days or fish euthanasia if you think he is suffering.

For severe bloating you can give him an Epsom salt bath to help combat the swelling. Add 1/2 teaspoon Epsom salt per gallon to a bowl of tank water and soak him for 15 minutes. (make sure the water temperature is the same as the water you are removing him from.) You can also try adding Epsom to his tank but at a reduced concentration of 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water. Results are mixed but it can be helpful in many cases of severe bloating. It's important to know this isn't a cure, just a way to reduce some of the osmotic stress and bloating.

Some aquarists prefer to euthanize very sick fish but this can be difficult for many people, especially those who keep fish as pets (rather then large quantities for breeding). If you have the stomach for it, there are several safe and humane methods to put your fish to sleep. Click to read more about fish euthanasia at Nippyfish.net.

I'm sorry you are going through this with your little Betta. It's a really hard thing to watch them go through and unfortunately it is very common, especially among Bettas. You can take solace in knowing you did everything you could for him and are certainly not alone. I lost my oldest Betta to Dropsy last year and it was really tough even though I knew he was old and wouldn't be with me long.

For more information on Dropsy in general, visit our Dropsy page.

Avoiding Mini-cycles

2007-07-16T01:48:00.001-04:00

gustav1, originally uploaded by girlpirate.

DW wrote,

I just wanted to write to you, and say thank you so much for putting up your site! I've learned so much from it! I also am in love with the betta photos you put up with each post. Simply amazing. Make me wanna set up my tripod and take a few rolls of my baby with my SLR since my digi doesn't do him justice!

But now, down to business. I wanted your opinion on how to prevent mini cycles from happening. Yes, yes against what I've read, I have been cycling with my precious Gackt (pronounced Gack-tow) in the tank. But I've done water checks frequently and changed 25% of the water once a week at least. Also, I was using Splendid Betta water conditioner but changed to Prime which was recommended by a friend.

I was happy because for the past two or three weeks I've read 0 anmonia with very low nirite. I just did a water change on either friday or saturday (my memory is grand like that) and when I tested to today it detected anomia. Of course que the freak out from me, so I did another water change.

I am aware of "mini" cycles and know they can happen if you don't give the bacterica a chance to culture. I've had my 3 gal eclipse tank with a bio-wheel for over a month now. I have yet to change the filter and I can't quite tell if the bio-wheel has a culture growing on it, I check every once in a while to see, thus why I've kept the filter in thinking perhaps the bracteria has been culturing on that.

Should I perhaps try seeding with gravel from our 20-some gal fully cycled tank in our living room and help give the bacteria a boost? Any suggestions would be great.

The stats again

3 gallon tank (bio-wheel and filter)

Temp: average 78

Food: Hikari Gold pellets three at a time twice a day

Prime water coniditoner

25% water changes once a week

No meds no salt

Gackt is acting his usual self happily making bubble nests and wiggle dancing when it's feeding time. Attaching a picture of him for you to see. I just want to prevent the headache of mini cycles. Thanks for your time Christie it means the world to me!

A: Mini-cycles generally occur during the fragile period when the tank is new and happen because of something we do to either remove nitrifying bacterial colonies (like removing the filter media) or by rapidly adding food for the bacteria (like adding additional fish). In a well established tank it's a lot harder to cause these mini cycles to occur.

In a tank like yours that is newly cycling you may cause mini cycles by changing the filter, aggressively vacuuming the gravel, doing massive water changes or removing fish from the aquarium. Often doing just one of these things aren't enough to cause a mini cycle but doing a couple in combination certainly could. For instance, removing the filter media and siphoning the gravel may upset the cycle. Doing regular weekly water changes as you have been doing may cause mini cycles too but in this case you are cycling with your fish so these multiple water changes are necessary to keep the fish safe. It sounds like your tank is nearly finished cycling. In the mean time I recommend leaving your filter media in place and only vacuuming a little once a week or every other week until the tank is well established.

The dark material you may be seeing on the bio-wheel, filter bag or gravel is organic material (mulm)and isn't the bacteria itself, which you can't see with the naked eye, however, it is likely full of bacteria. The only way to really know if bacteria is present is by measuring it's byproducts from them (nitrite and nitrate). For nitrite and nitrate to be measurable nitrifying bacteria must be present. When you test your water and see the ammonia and nitrite levels spike and fall and the nitrate begin to rise you then know the bacteria has reproduced fast enough and to large enough colonies to consume the ammonia and nitrite as fast as it's being made. That is why the ammonia reads 0. The nitrite will read 0 too when the bacterial colonies are as large as they're going to get and you will see the nitrates then begin to rise. Nitrate is the final byproduct of nitrifying bacteria. If it exists then the bacteria exists.

If you have gravel from an established tank available to you I definitely suggest using it. Adding bacteria from another tank is much faster way to cycle. In many cases you can cut the entire process down to just a few days rather then trying to culture the bacteria practically from scratch, which can take 4 - 6 weeks. If you've got it, I say go for it.

Good luck with your new tank and kudos to you for taking the time to learn about the nitrogen cycle.

Image of Gackt provided by DW

Betta's Body Turning Black

2007-07-13T00:14:00.001-04:00

Emmy and her plant, originally uploaded by CerLynn.

Q: YC wrote,

Hi Christie! I love your site and your blog! They are very detailed and I admire how much time and effort you dedicate to this hobby. Bettas are beautiful, lovable fish and it's nice to visit a site whose owner is not only knowledgeable, but with a deep fondness all betta owners can relate to.

I have a question, and it's not too urgent, but any help you can give me on this matter would be very appreciated. =)

My first betta, Tempest, has lost a huge patch of color from his body. He was all blue except for his head which was hooded black, and now part of his back is the same color as his head. I have not yet tested the water of the tank because I doubt it is a factor of his color change. (My three other bettas are all in water from the same source and they're all peachy and younger than he is.)

1. What is your tank size? *One gallon, in a bowl

2. Have you tested for ammonia- what were the results? *No

3. Have you tested for nitrite- what were the results?* No

4. Have you tested for nitrate- what were the results?* No

5. Have you tested for pH- what were the results? *No

6. What temperature is your tank? *83 degrees Fahrenheit

7. How often do you perform water changes, how much water do you change? *Once a week, full water changes

8. What water additives are you using (please include any conditioners, salt or medications) *I use Aquasafe conditioner, 1/2 tsp aquarium salt, and 1 drop of aquarisol. Currently, Tempest has fin rot and is being medicated with Mardel's Tetracycline.

9. What type of food are you feeding, how often and how much? *3 pellets of betta bits, and bloodworms every few days.

10. What kind of tank mates, when were they added? * No tank mates

11. Is your tank planted? *Only a plastic/silk plant

12. What are the symptoms, when did they begin and is there anything else we should know? *Ahh, to the good stuff. Around the same time Tempest developed fin rot (a week and a half ago), he lost a patch of blue from his back. I was worried he was sick, but no symptom of any sickness I've heard of was like this. He is not bloated, pineconing, or itching. There is no ich or velvet sheen on the black patch. In fact, despite the fact that he lost color, he is pretty much normal, except for the naps. He often takes naps (rests at the bottom of the bowl), and is doing it much more than he used to. It may be him recovering from fin rot.

My suspicion is that he is getting old (I gauge him to be 1 1/2 to 2 years now) and the loss of color is a sign of him aging...but I am not sure. Today, he is losing color from another patch. I hope this is not too serious! I look forward to your reply and thanks for your help!

A: Thanks for writing in about Tempest. I agree, Bettas sure are beautiful and I love them too. Let's see if we can figure out what might be happening to your fishy. One thing I am confident of is this color loss you are describing is likely not caused by old age. Symptoms of old age are progressive and often take many months or even years to develop. The rapid color loss you are observing is being caused by some sort of external force. (Perhaps a bacteria, fungus or toxin exposure) Also, 1.5 - 2 years is about middle age for a Betta and is a little premature to be showing significant aging symptoms. With good genes, proper care and a little luck a Betta can live 5 years or more. Old age symptoms are more likely to manifest in Bettas who are 3 to 4 years old. Check out the link for more info on Aging Bettas.

One recommendation I can make right away is to test your water parameters. I know you don't think there is anything wrong but the vast majority of fish illnesses are caused by something out of wack in the water. The fin rot you described, for example, is nearly always caused by exposure to toxic ammonia, nitrite or some other stressor. Beyond that, each tank should be tested even if the other fish are healthy. There are so many factors that alter the water parameters that each tank could be vastly different from the one next to it even if the source water is the same. Each Betta, for instance, metabolizes food at a different rate making ammonia build faster in one bowl over another. You could have one tank that needs cleaning every 7 days while another needs cleaning every 4 days. Fish, like people, are different too. Some fish are more prone to illness then others so having two healthy fish doesn't mean that the third isn't experiencing environmental stress. These factors include genes, previous exposure to environmental hazards, diet, age, and other factors. Although you said there were no signs of illness it sounds like there are. Color loss itself is a very common sign of illness as is fin rot and lethargy (the napping you described.)

The one thing that I found most curious is what you said about the color change. You mentioned that his head was black and now his body is the same color as his head (black). This is interesting because color loss in fish is generally described as a fading in color, lighter shade of color or a change to light gray or brown. Your Betta getting darker isn't as common and is usually a good sign that your Betta is feeling better. It's possible that the color change is coming on as he recovers from his fin rot. It's difficult to say for sure though until you test your water parameters.

There isn't an obvious answer for the darker color as it isn't typical of the more common fungal or bacterial infections. Just test your water and if the fin rot is improving finish the course of tetracycline and treat with only fresh, clean, conditioned water. See if any change occurs once he's off the meds (they can add stress too) and consider going without the aquarium salt as that may effect him over time as well.

One other thing I wanted to add, though not necessarily related to the problem, is his food portions are a bit low. You are right to feed your Bettas sparingly because overfeeding can cause a lot of problems with this species but a normal healthy portion would be about 3 pellets (and/or bloodworms) one to two times per day rather than once every three days. Too little food, over time, could lead to a nutritional deficiency and health problems.

Well, I know this wasn't the hard and fast answer you were probably hoping for. Darkening color is a tricky one without the ability to test the fish. Do keep an eye out for other symptoms like fuzzy or slimy patches or open sores that could be a sign of a true fungus. (The only other thing I can think of that may cause dark discoloration) Also, look for signs of improvement. It's certainly possible that the color change is a positive sign.

Light Sensitive Goldfish

2007-07-09T01:16:00.001-04:00

the smile, originally uploaded by glenn..

Q: MM wrote,

You've helped me in the past with one of my Bettas (he had swim bladder trouble). I have a quick question about one of my goldfish. I have 2 large goldfish (almost about a foot long, each), also one large algae eater and a small bottom feeder (15 yrs. old) lives in this cave and hardly ever comes out. They're all in a 50-gallon with filters, etc. For the last month, one of my large goldfish has been acting very strangely, but only when I turn the aquarium lights out. He starts swimming upside down, and sort of "spinning and twisting". It's like he has no idea where the top and bottom of the tank are once I turn the lights off. I've tried leaving one light on for him in the tank, but then the fish swim around all night and don't sink to the bottom and sleep like usual...all because of the light being on, they get confused and don't know when it's daytime/night. We hear him splashing around all night and I can't figure out why he won't sleep like usual alongside the other goldfish (that's what they would always do). He just keeps swimming upside down and doing this twisting motion all the way to the top. As soon as it starts getting light outside again, he's perfectly fine (even before I turn the aquarium lights on). I've even tried putting a night-light next to the aquarium, but that doesn't help. He only swims normally when both aquarium lights are on or when it's daytime (early a.m. before I turn their lights on). Now sometimes he does look a little topsy-turvy even during the day, but it's NOTHING compared to how he swims at night...it's just awful to watch him struggling like that. This other fish-guy told me that maybe the algae eater is chasing him at night and he's having some kind of nervous reaction to it...but that's not it. I've watched them and that algae eater has no interest in anything besides his algae wafers :-) Any advice would be greatly appreciated...I'm thinking maybe it's his eyesight? Thanks again.

A:
This is pretty strange behavior. I understand why the fish guy blamed the algae eater as many have a bad habit of attaching themselves to goldfish at night and sucking on their slime coats. If you don't think this is it, then I trust your judgment. You'd probably catch him in the act anyway.

That said it could be some sort of visual impairment like cataracts or cloudy-eye but in both of those instances you can see the filmy coating on the fish's eye. If your goldfish's eyeballs look clear then I might consider another reason for his anxiety. It's possible they are out-growing their aquarium and he's feeling cramped or that he is seeing some sort of reflection when the lights are off. (Though usually reflections are caused when the lights are on.) Swim bladder disorder is also very common among goldfish so you could be experiencing the same problem as you did with your Betta.

I'm afraid I have no experience with goldfish so I can only give general suggestions of what the problem might be. I do recommend checking all the water parameters to make sure there aren't any toxins in the water and that the ph, gh and temperature are all at good levels. I also recommend chatting with some folks who know their cold water fish as some of the illnesses for them may be different then with tropicals which I'm more familiar with.

Try Goldie Town at the Aquamaniacs forum for good advice, also the aquarists at The Freshwater Aquarium newsgroup on Google Groups are an amazing resource and there are lots of pond keepers there who are very familiar with goldfish.

Hope these are helpful and please do let me know if you find out what is wrong with your goldie. I'm always interested in learning about fish I haven't had experience with.

Aquatic Veterinary Specialists

2007-07-04T01:18:00.001-04:00

First 10g, originally uploaded by John_Zhang.

Hey Nippyfish Readers! It's late and I'm sort of tired so rather than posting the usual Q&A, I'm just going to reprint this really nice email I got today from a reader. It was so thoughtful, it made my day. The emails I get from readers are really what make the blog as successful as it is. So thanks again to you all, the readers for emailing your questions and comments. Happy 4th of July to my fellow American readers too. Enjoy the holiday and stay safe. :)

MB, DVM wrote:

I'm a veterinarian who aspires to work with fish and other aquatic animals when I "grow up," and I just wanted to let you know that your site is a wonderful wealth of knowledge and experience in betta keeping. I was impressed by the content, and I would definitely refer clients with questions about their betta and for examples of good husbandry practice to take a look at your site. I've done lots of work with veterinarians in public aquarium and tropical fish aquaculture settings, and I wish that more vets out there understood the importance of knowing at least the basics about good fish husbandry, so laypeople would look to us, not pet store workers (nothing against them, some are very good at what they do, but as you know, some of them aren't!) to get advice on pet fish health and husbandry. Just thought I'd give you a smile with some words of kindness...
Enjoy your 4th of July Holiday!

If any of you fish hobbyists out there know of a great veterinarian that knows his/her fish and want to share them with the rest of the world, please to let us hear your recommendations.